6G Celicas Forums

oh, and i must say, i LOVE the vacume tank.

Guys here's the case. . I suspect something is wrong with the mixture. car runs i dunno maybe lean or rich. It come a big smoke off the exhaust and the car is shaking at idle. In the higher rpm it's good. Nearly killed myself at the garage . dunno any suggestions?

Open the garage door..

I don't know too much about ITBs or too mechanically inclined lol, but seeing as they're better in high RPMs and in engines the usually rev high like in motorcycles, do you think the air isn't flowing all that well in the low RPMs? or throwing off the MAF?

your injectors are WAY to big and you have no way of tuning the air/fuel mix AND I doubt the MAP senor is getting steady vacuum. Where is the MAP sensor reading from? IAT is reading from where?

the map sensor reading is from a separate vacuum hose coming from every single ITB and going into the map sensor and fuel pressure regulator.it's way too rich. i think ecu played with the ignition aswell. any suggestions. i need to get an piggyback or standalone but any other conclusion?

and guys what that vacuum line for coming from the valve cover next to the PCV valve and going to the intake?

those are breather tubes, they can go into a catch can with filters.

What are you tuning with? Nothing right now, you'll probably want a stand-alone.
Where is your MAP sensor reading vacuum from? You should have it on a small bottle so it has a steadier source, each intake pulse is probably screwing with the reading. How bad does vacuum bounce around at it? How much does it's voltage fluctuate
How much vacuum are you pulling in your 'bottle'?
Is it steady vacuum?

You should really have two bottles. One small one for the MAP sensor (assuming it has steady vacuum) and another for accessories with a check valve to hold vac at higher throttle so the brake booster etc have steady vacuum source.

This post has been edited by Bitter: Feb 5, 2012 - 10:59 AM

the map sensor is on a separate vacuum coming from ITB's stock vacuum lines. I put the stock 7afe injector and it runs better.I will see the map sensor reading and map readings. BUt ill defenetly need a remap.

You will probably only need injectors slightly larger than stock if at all since the limiting factor in head airflow on a 7A is the head, cams, and valves themselves. the intake system is not an impediment much. Stock cams stop making power at about 5800-6000RPM anyways and the bottom end will only take 6500 on a semi regular basis...maybe.

If the MAP sensor is not getting a steady vacuum signal then the fueling from the ECM is going to be all funky. Until you get cams, do some porting, get a longer runner exhaust manifold, tune it, and build the bottom end you'll probably not make much over stock power or possibly even less. The 7A is built for lower end torque and in stock form stops making power at 5500RPM. With some intake and exhaust/manifold you can get to around 5800-6000 before it wheezes out and won't go anymore. Once you start opening up the head though you'll realize than a G head would flow much better and a 4A-GE series engine (like a 20valve) is much more rev happy and suited to ITB, and is what you should have gotten to begin with. Can you make a 7A rev, yes. But you'll have to build it a little.

That's what intend to do! Something like Billzilla project. we'll see i just need to work a bit more to get the money.I'm planing some good things on it.

a $50 vacuum manifold would probly work best. Interested the progression on this. If the IAT sensor is unpluged it will lean the hell out of the motor. Green top injectors are way too big even for this project. if ti was me doing this. Id run a manifold(sheet metal box) just like the 4a 20v. Still get the same effect with the stacks, just easier to work with in terms of sensors and what not. Considering doing it on my 7afze project.

One common misconception Ive read here is that itbs will reduce throttle response and low end. The sole purpose for itbs is to improve part throttle response.

Oh and set every throttlebody the same. The simple way involves placing a vacuum gauge on each seperate intake runner nipple. Adjust the throttle plates till the vacuum reading is even across all 4 cylinders.

The proper way to adjust them is to build this tool I cant remember the name of. Take 2 jars and fill them halfway with semi transparent oil of any type. Use a piece of hose and run it through the lid of both jars so that the hose is submerged in the liquid. Make sure the hose is sealed airtight with the jar. Next take 2 sections of hose and run 1 hose into each jar, this time the end of the hose should be in the air not submerged. Now, supposing your jars are airtight like they should be, you can hook the two hoses to two seperate ITB and balance out the pressure. Whichever intake runner is pulling more vacuum will pull the oil out of the other jar into its jar

This post has been edited by Special_Edy: Sep 7, 2012 - 9:30 AM

Manometer and you want to use inches of water, its much more sensitive. I just used 4 cheap vacuum gauges to balance carbs on a cycle, worked fine.

Yup, thats where I learned it, the dreaded 4 carburetors on my SECA 750. The manometer is a must though for precision