6G Celicas Forums

Well, finally got my GodSpeed radiator to stop leaking in random locations (first it was the sensor that I HAD to crossthread in, because the radiator was a m14 1.75 thread and the fan sensor is a m14 1.5. Then it was the upper hose which i had to trim and clamp to hell, then the lower hose, then the lower hose at the block... FINALLY it has stopped, but I still smell coolant... I hope it's just left over) and now my outer joint boot on my passenger side CV axle has ripped, spraying my Enkie's with grease. Fuuuuuckkk. So, I'll be replacing the axle tomorrow.

I've got a slide hammer with a CV axle removal bit, torque wrench and all the tools ready in order to remove the axle. I was looking through a Haynes manual and got a bit confused. The torque spec in the Haynes manual says 137lbs on the axle nut, but the computer at work says 159lbs. I've seen both being listed on here... so I'm wondering if anyone has thoughts on which I should do? Also, the carrier bearing and the metal plate with bolts behind it... is the OEM shaft a two piece and the replacement a one piece? I'm kind of confused because it doesn't look like the OEM one, but length and everything except for that studded plate behind the carrier bearing is the same. Any thoughts on this?

Also, any heads up on what I could run into while replacing this shaft would be appreciated. This is the first time I'm tackling a cv axleshaft alone.

Looks like removal process is as follows:
Axle nut off
Ball joint bolts off
Swing knuckle out of way
Carrier bearing bolts off
Pop the axle out.

You'll probably have to take the part off that is around the carrier bearing after you get the axle out
I've replaced 2 of them an both times I've had to swap that over

Does that come off easily?

For the most part
It's got a clip around the inside of it holding it on the bearing that can be a pain tho

The plan is to not see it unless it's in use and to have it completely automated (think pop up headlight style, just a bit more stealth)

That said... I'm having a little trouble getting the needed motorized components to work as intended but once that's done and I get it all weather proofed I'll do a write up on it with pictures or something.

Well some more updates. This post is photo heavy.

Images of the licence plate relocate and angle.




New filters to blend with the engine color. Was tired of having 3 different colors under the hood.


Radiator replacement








Passenger CV Axle replacement




I didn't even have to pry the axle shaft out... it just fell out lol






While under there... I found this: Made my heart sink... Looks like some frame work is in its future.





Thought a slide hammer would help me get it out

Nope


Had to pry it out with a chisel and prybar



After hours of being frustrated, trying a million-and-one things to try to get the damn thing out, this is funny to you.

CLICK ON THE IMAGE TO PLAY


Then of course, this gave me trouble. Soaked it in PB blaster for a hour while I struggled getting the seal out. Whacked it with a hammer about 50 times and it finally popped off.







Seven hours later, I finally had it installed. I couldn't lift my arms the next day. Do not do this side first if you have never changed a CV axle on your own before. I had so much trouble with the ball joint, trying to push down on the control arm and lift the joint into place. That process took me an hour on it's own. By that point, I was shaking from being fatigued. I didn't want to mess up the alignment by taking the strut mounting bolts out of the spindle, so this was the only way. Driver side should be so much easier.

This post has been edited by RabidTRD: Oct 28, 2012 - 1:30 PM

Next time your fighting with the control ARM by yourself to do a axle. Get a long crowbar an slide it into the circle hole in the ARM an push it down with that.
That's what I do. I've gotten good at these thanks to the 1mz lol I can swap a axle in an hour lol if the retainer clip doesn't fight me lol

Wtf. So now my lower radiator hose isn't getting warm. I was trying to figure out why I'm hearing a trickle noise in my heater core like air is stuck in there or coolant is moving around but not going anywhere. So it seems like the thermostat isn't opening up, but the thing is, I'm getting heat inside and the engine isn't over heating. Yet my lower hose doesn't warm up at all. Thermostat is new, lifetime warrantied Stant Superstat stainless thermostat. Has anyone had issues with this thermostat not opening because of a dual core, cooler running radiator? Do I have to get a thermostat that opens at a lower temp?

I need to look at a cooling diagram.

The radiator fans work fine, they turn on normally, but it seems like nothing is going through the hose.

might just be air locked. take the cap off start the car and let it warm up to normal temp and turn the heat on full

I've done that 4 times now trying to bleed it. The only time it bubbled was when i first put the radiator in and ran it. Im almost wondering if the thermostat is clogged partially. Ill rip it apart tomorrow after work and test the stat in boiling water.

Out of laziness of not skimming the whole thread, have you done the timing belt, water pump and all that related stuff?

Yeah, I've done a full service on this engine aside from removing the head. All new seals except for the rear main, new water pump, new timing belt, all new hoses...

I replaced the thermostat and then let the car idle for 45 mins with the cap off two nights ago. Seems to be ok now, but I'm going to keep an eye on it. I think the thermostat just wasn't opening or I had it in the wrong way when I first changed it two years ago. I don't think I had the weep holes angled right.

Are those 12" fans?

I believe so. I'll measure tomorrow, but they're 12" by 4" I want to say. They're really shallow, and fast! The sound of the air hitting the radiator reminds me of a emergency siren you hear before a tornado. Sounds badass hahaha. They're powerful enough for me to feel the heat hitting me 2 feet away from the front of the car. Cools quick.

Hahaha
Mine on the 1mz sound the same way!! I love it
Freaks people out the first time I turn the key on it lol

that there be rust, are you trying to pull a needles....

It's nowhere near that bad.

Lol. My car sat in a field for a year. It's got rust.

It will be fixed eventually, when I get the time and money. The whole lower half needs to be resprayed and rust fixed. I got a quote for $600 from my guy who painted my Camry. He did a good job, so I'll be sending the Celica his way come spring/summer.

Done with Sunpro and their ****ty electronic gauges. I don't know why I didn't just go with Autometer from the start. What a waste of time, oil, and money.

My Sunpro oil pressure gauge has been nothing but a twitchy piece of **** since the second day I installed it. I have been through 3 sending units, and all 3 have pissed out of the seals. Apparently they're cheap enough built that the heat from the engine melts the seals and it pisses away. So **** it, I'm going with what I should have from the beginning. Autometer, brass tube, mechanical, and a gauge face that matches my OEM gauges perfectly!

I'll be installing this puppy tomorrow