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> urgent help! Cooling system problems.
post Oct 24, 2012 - 1:26 AM
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KaneO

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I recently had my Celica with a 5sfe taken in to get a new radiator. problem being now is i think there is air traped inside. Tried Numerous times to bleed it.. what happens is when i take the car for a long drive and shut it down it dumps about a litter of coolant out the expansion tank and it also dose sometimes when the car is running.. Temp is normal according to the gauge and the car runs fine otherwise. I've taken it back to the mechanics and they failed to fix the problem. What's worse is i had plans to go on holidays and drive this car there. witch is less than a week away!

My bleeding procedure is the following so correct me if Im wrong.

Turn the heater to full hot. (fans off). Start the car with the rad cap off. using a small funnel wedged in there i top off the radiator. I then rev the car as it seems to help purge the air out. Wait for the bubbles to stop and shut the car off and refit the rad cap.

please help.
post Oct 24, 2012 - 1:33 AM
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txnight



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if you can afford it there is a funnel out there that acts like a radiator cap in the sense you can tighten it on and fill it, leave some extra coolant in the funnel and run it with the heater on.

Are you sure there is air in the system?


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post Oct 24, 2012 - 1:45 AM
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KaneO

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QUOTE (txnight @ Oct 24, 2012 - 2:33 AM) *
if you can afford it there is a funnel out there that acts like a radiator cap in the sense you can tighten it on and fill it, leave some extra coolant in the funnel and run it with the heater on.

Are you sure there is air in the system?


I have herd of them. But Im hoping to take the car with me on holidays very soon and i doubt i will get one in time.The funnel i use is well sealed in when i put it in the radiator, it doesn't leak. I fill it half way up the funnel and once the car heats up, the coolant with rise to the top of the funnel and even spill a bit. Forgot to mention the car was pressure tested. No leaks after the new rad was put in.


QUOTE (KaneO @ Oct 24, 2012 - 2:43 AM) *
QUOTE (txnight @ Oct 24, 2012 - 2:33 AM) *
if you can afford it there is a funnel out there that acts like a radiator cap in the sense you can tighten it on and fill it, leave some extra coolant in the funnel and run it with the heater on.

Are you sure there is air in the system?


I have herd of them. But Im hoping to take the car with me on holidays very soon and i doubt i will get one in time.The funnel i use is well sealed in when i put it in the radiator, it doesn't leak. I fill it half way up the funnel and once the car heats up, the coolant with rise to the top of the funnel and even spill a bit. Forgot to mention the car was pressure tested. No leaks after the new rad was put in.


And yes there is air in there. i can see bubbles come up occasionally especially when i rev the car.
post Oct 24, 2012 - 1:56 AM
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soulshadow



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they replace the thermostat? Sounds like your getting way too much pressure this can happen if they put too much water into the system. If you can get one of those coolant testers with the 4 floating balls inside looks almost like a dripplet/ turkey baster and test to see if the coolant is right. Other things is to watch and see if your waterpump has gone out. If you already topped it off I would just use the reservoir to fill it up. I usually run the motor without the cap on until it has gotten all the air out.
post Oct 24, 2012 - 2:05 AM
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txnight



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ok using the funnel that you have, try this.

Fill the radiator and leave a little extra in the funnel. start the car and let it get to running temp, some coolant may spill as it heats so don't fill the funnel too full. then once at running temp turn the heater on as hot as it will go. once the air is blowing nice and hot check for bubbles. If you make sure you don't burn yourself you can squeeze the hoses to and from the radiator a little to check that it is no longer bubbling. When it stops shut the car off and cap the radiator, then fill your overflow tank about half way, or full line with remaining fluid but make sure it's not too full. Also your overflow tank should have a cap with a line to radiator and one that goes into the overflow tank.

That line into the overflow tank allows the radiator to draw fluids if needed. As long as your not overheating and your air is blowing hot you should be good to go, just keep an eye on the overflow tanks level and if you got room and are worried keep a reserve container in the car somewhere. the air can take up to a few weeks to fully burp out and this is normal, nothing to sweat over.


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post Oct 24, 2012 - 8:14 AM
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Special_Edy



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A blown headgasket will cause air to leak into the coolant. Little bubbles that never end and will push your coolant out into the overflow tank
post Oct 24, 2012 - 6:23 PM
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trdproven



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^ yea if you use a funnel method for example and fill it, and the bubbles never stop, especially when you rev and the bubbles go crazy, its a symptom of a blown headgasket. but mixed oil and coolant is also a sign and crazy smoke. What I did to bleed was heater to hot, and waited for the bubbles to stop, took a while but it did.

but for everyone dont turn on your fans while its set to hot, you can destroy your expansion valve for your AC.

This post has been edited by trdproven: Oct 24, 2012 - 6:24 PM


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post Oct 24, 2012 - 8:25 PM
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Galcobar

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Couple items which spring to mind in regards to bleeding the coolant system.

First is to have the car with the front end elevated, as this can encourage the air bubbles to rise to the radiator cap position. If there are any coolant passages which are higher than the outlets you can get trapped air bubbles.

The second is ensuring a proper level in the coolant reservoir before you begin the bleeding procedure. It should be filled to the COLD mark before the engine is warmed (and before you elevate the front of the car). You want to prevent the coolant system from sucking up air as it cools down and the coolant contracts.

The third, and IMHO the most probable issue, is to check that you have a working, properly sized and correctly pressurized radiator cap. The radiator cap is what keeps the system under pressure; if the pressure is too low the coolant will boil and introduce bubbles into the system. Boiling also means the volume of the coolant (and now gas) in the system expands rapidly, which then pushes out into the overflow reservoir.
post Jul 20, 2013 - 10:30 PM
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Toyo6g

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Well I have the same problem.... Kind of.... The rad is in good shape... And they purge the air out!!! After a hour or 2 goes hot again!! The cooling fan is always on it never stops i already change the thermostat!!! I don't have a broken head gasket because I don't have a milky oil!!! Don't know where to star!!
post Jul 22, 2013 - 2:15 AM
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Galcobar

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Check the radiator cap. As for the radiator fan, your fan temperature switch may be malfunctioning. Toyota designed the system to fail with the fan on; the switch turns the fan off if the coolant temperature is too low. However, the temperature in the radiator may be too high again because of the radiator cap.
post Jul 24, 2013 - 12:22 AM
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Toyo6g

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I alredy change the radiator cap.... Now I think that the coolant sensor might be the problem!! Because it has that code! The fan relay os ok, the sensor in the rad is ok... because if i Unplugged the sensor the ac fan comes on... Where's this tempeture switch? I'm running the 5sfe!!! If you can put a picture will be better!!
post Jul 24, 2013 - 7:34 AM
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bsamps4

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QUOTE (Toyo6g @ Jul 24, 2013 - 12:22 AM) *
I alredy change the radiator cap.... Now I think that the coolant sensor might be the problem!! Because it has that code! The fan relay os ok, the sensor in the rad is ok... because if i Unplugged the sensor the ac fan comes on... Where's this tempeture switch? I'm running the 5sfe!!! If you can put a picture will be better!!


The cooling fan temperature switch is the sensor in the radiator (5sfe). Just because you unplug it and the fan runs doesn't necessarily mean that your cooling fan temp switch is good. You need to run your car in the driveway at idle, and wait and see if your cooling fans ever come on.

Side Note: Just because your oil isn't milky doesn't mean you don't have a blown headgasket. Oil and Coolant can mix either in the engine, in the radiator, or both. A leak down test, compression test, test strips for your coolant that determine if oil is in it, or a coolant bleed while revving the engine to see if compression is leaking into the coolant system are the easiest ways to determine if your head gasket is blown, but luckily if the head gasket is blown, they are pretty easy to replace.

This post has been edited by bsamps4: Jul 24, 2013 - 7:35 AM


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post Jul 24, 2013 - 11:23 AM
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Toyo6g

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Buy when I turn the key the rad. Fan comes in.... Is never off.... That's the weird thing.... Even cold... I haven't use the car because of this prOblem.... I hate using my wife's car!!! 8( I'll try to check this today and see what happens!!
post Jul 24, 2013 - 12:55 PM
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bsamps4

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Switch may have failed in the open position, or the connection could be loose. It shouldn't run when you start the car unless your a/c is on.


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post Jul 24, 2013 - 1:04 PM
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Toyo6g

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But it does... Ill try to buy this sensor today and see what's happen... The parts from a 90 tercel are compatible withcelica 6g?
post Jul 25, 2013 - 7:13 PM
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trdproven



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radiator cap can also overflow the bottle

blown headgasket

you can tell if its air by the bubbles



--------------------
94 Celica GT
|Toyota OEM Japan|Toyota Racing Development|Tom's|Competition Clutch|5Zigen|Apexi|
|Laille/Beatrush|Magnecor|Denso|Royal Purple|Optima|PIAA|PW JDM|Megan Racing|Nitto|
|Work|Greddy|Samco|Project Mu|H&R|Gates|Moog|Rota|Yokohama|Epman|1320|Upgr8
04 Celica GT
|Toyota OEM Japan|Toyota Racing Development|Tein|BC Racing|Greddy|

89 Supra (Sold)
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post Jul 25, 2013 - 10:44 PM
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Toyo6g

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I think that the problem is the head gasket.... It haves a few bubbles....
If I fill the radiator and the reservoir!!! Where is the water?? I mean if is full....
Another thing I don't have water/oil mix or oil/antifreeze...
With the rad cap of and if I rev the water stars moving... So my water pump is still good!!!!
The fan problem I haven't fix that... I've check the fan relay and one of the wire did not have any contact with one of the pin.... If I remove the main relay the rad fan turns of.... I try to check for short circuit and I did not find anything!!!!
So.... I don't know what to do!!!!! I HATE DRIVING MI WIFE'S CAR!!!
rolleyes.gif
post Jul 25, 2013 - 11:00 PM
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delusionz



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complicated bleeding proceedures is bull****, fill the f*cker up. go for a drive, the air should get pushed out the rad cap anyways. then let the system cool down and suck the coolant back in, set your reservoir level to the correct markings and then observe every time the engines back to cold, it should keep the same level in the reservoir

if your reservoir is filling up and blowing out coolant at all then for sure you have a blown head gasket

always use genuine toyota radiator cap too, dont buy the cheap one, its not just a cap, its got the release spring **** in it. china ones either dont seal or dont release after a short time


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post Jul 26, 2013 - 9:33 AM
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Galcobar

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QUOTE (Toyo6g @ Jul 24, 2013 - 9:23 AM) *
Buy when I turn the key the rad. Fan comes in.... Is never off.... That's the weird thing.... Even cold... I haven't use the car because of this prOblem.... I hate using my wife's car!!! 8( I'll try to check this today and see what happens!!


As I said, Toyota designed the radiator fan to run unless the temperature switch turns it off. If the temperature fan switch/sensor fails, the fan will run constantly. If you unplug the fan switch/sensor, the fan will run constantly.

You can test this with a pot of water, a thermometer and a multimeter. Below 83C, there should be continuity between the terminal and the switch. Above 93C, there should be no continuity. Or as noted by other posters, turn the car on and let it idle. If the fan switch/sensor is working, the fan will only turn on once the engine reaches normal operating temperature, and then it should cycle on and off.

I'd still guess at the radiator cap being a problem. If the cap does not hold the correct pressure the coolant will boil, creating bubbles. Toyota parts are the best choice, though some aftermarket manufacturers such as Stant produce reasonable quality. The Toyota part number for a sixth-gen Celica radiator cap is 1640172090. Vehicles in which this cap was used: http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/xref?v=U_1996...mp;s=1640172090
post Aug 1, 2013 - 11:40 PM
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Toyo6g

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update..... Blown head gasket.... there was a short with the fan wiring... one of the conector had no contact at all with the relay and that was the problem with the fan!! Ive discover that my self!! All temp. sensors are in good shape! Now im gointo change the gasket water pump, timing belt and belt tensioners!! Im going to do it my self!! I think!! Tks to all for the help!!

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