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> How to replace control arm?
post Oct 31, 2012 - 12:53 PM
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Malhar95

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I need to replace or fix a control arm. The bolt parallel to the floor is loose, it's not tightening or lossenin enought to pull out

It's just free in there. Need help

To me it seems like there's a nut holding the bolt from behind, but the problem is I can't see or reach back there.


Is there some trick or something I'm missing?


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post Oct 31, 2012 - 2:15 PM
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richee3



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Sounds like you have EXACTLY the same problem I had... I had to make frantic phone calls to figure it out. You better get a torch out or a big drill bit.

There's a nut welded inside the subframe. When I tried removing that bolt, the welds on the nut broke loose. I had to cut a very ugly hole in my subframe and put an end wrench and half a can of PB Blaster on the nut to get the bolt out. I replaced the OEM nut and bolt completely, but forgot to make a plate and get the hole covered back up... Still need to do that.



This post has been edited by richee3: Oct 31, 2012 - 5:04 PM


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post Oct 31, 2012 - 4:53 PM
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nsxtypeR



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Definatly a loose nut inside the frame. Had that too. Only way to fix is as richee said. Make a hole in the frame and weld the nut. Dont forget to close the hole when finished


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post Oct 31, 2012 - 6:29 PM
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Malhar95

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How can I cut it? I don't have any special tools, what should I be buying?


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post Oct 31, 2012 - 10:07 PM
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bmj67

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use a hole saw and a drill it will make a clean hole that will be easier to patch.
post Oct 31, 2012 - 10:27 PM
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Malhar95

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QUOTE (bmj67 @ Oct 31, 2012 - 10:07 PM) *
use a hole saw and a drill it will make a clean hole that will be easier to patch.


is hatching necessary?

and will i HAVE to weld the nut back? or can i just tighten the s**t out of it?


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post Nov 1, 2012 - 1:25 AM
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nsxtypeR



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I would weld the nut for sure. You dont want to open up the frame everytime.


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post Nov 1, 2012 - 1:51 AM
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Malhar95

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QUOTE (nsxtypeR @ Nov 1, 2012 - 2:25 AM) *
I would weld the nut for sure. You dont want to open up the frame everytime.


Well then going to a shop is necessary I guess, don't have welding experience and/or tools


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post Nov 5, 2012 - 9:03 PM
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Syaoran



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You could try your luck with an impact gun. You can put on and take off endlink nuts with them (which "require" a hex key to keep the stud from spinning).



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post Nov 6, 2012 - 10:20 PM
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Malhar95

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QUOTE (Syaoran @ Nov 5, 2012 - 10:03 PM) *
You could try your luck with an impact gun. You can put on and take off endlink nuts with them (which "require" a hex key to keep the stud from spinning).


why the endlinks?

i was actually thinking of replacing the complete crossmember thing(which everything is bolted on to) i think thats what its called,. or the subframe,

i think crossmemeber is where the engine mounts are rite ?

yea i suck at identifying things with the correct terms/names


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post Nov 7, 2012 - 2:18 PM
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jordisonjr



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Had the same issue on mine too.


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post Nov 8, 2012 - 4:06 PM
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nsxtypeR



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Replacing the subframe is maybe the easiest way but also very timeconsuming. Just cut a hole in the old frame and weld the nut. Close the hole and you'll be fine. If you got the tools, it shouldnt take more then an hour (or 2). Replacing the frame could easily take all day.


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post Nov 8, 2012 - 5:26 PM
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Syaoran



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QUOTE (Malhar95 @ Nov 6, 2012 - 11:20 PM) *
QUOTE (Syaoran @ Nov 5, 2012 - 10:03 PM) *
You could try your luck with an impact gun. You can put on and take off endlink nuts with them (which "require" a hex key to keep the stud from spinning).


why the endlinks?

i was actually thinking of replacing the complete crossmember thing(which everything is bolted on to) i think thats what its called,. or the subframe,

i think crossmemeber is where the engine mounts are rite ?

yea i suck at identifying things with the correct terms/names



I'm not saying to remove the endlinks, just using them as an example of things that would normally keep spinning if you tried to take them off the wrong way.


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