 Not cranking & Code 12. |
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 Nov 14, 2012 - 10:19 PM
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 Enthusiast  Joined May 29, '12 From NC Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%)  |
94 ST 5spd.
I'm having a issue car won't crank, so far i have check power/grounds, fuses, clutch safety switch all were good. I notice the fuel pump will only prime if you're trying to start the car (Key turned all the way), other than that i can roll start it and it pure like a kitten and pulled the codes and got 12 (Which i can't find codes anywhere), but car has no light on while it's running. This is my dd and i need it up and going soon, until then i hate to but will roll start it when needed. --------------------  Cleaning and improving my new found yoter little by little. |
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Nov 15, 2012 - 1:30 AM
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 Enthusiast Joined Oct 29, '11 From Haltom City, Texas Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
QUOTE (Takumi-FujiWaraST @ Nov 14, 2012 - 10:19 PM)  94 ST 5spd. I'm having a issue car won't crank, so far i have check power/grounds, fuses, clutch safety switch all were good. I notice the fuel pump will only prime if you're trying to start the car (Key turned all the way), other than that i can roll start it and it pure like a kitten and pulled the codes and got 12 (Which i can't find codes anywhere), but car has no light on while it's running. This is my dd and i need it up and going soon, until then i hate to but will roll start it when needed. I think 12 is no NE+ signal from the distributor while cranking, or maybe its G |
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Nov 15, 2012 - 9:24 AM
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 1, '11 From Illinois Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) |
Like was said, check the distributor and the coil. In my case with a code 12, my coil was cracked and the copper wiring had unwound itself inside the distributor. Hope this helps. Here is a link for the codes:http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=55403
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Nov 15, 2012 - 10:00 AM
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 Enthusiast Joined Feb 5, '05 From pineapple under the sea Currently Offline Reputation: 9 (100%) |
QUOTE other than that i can roll start it and it pure like a kitten and pulled the codes and got 12 (Which i can't find codes anywhere), but car has no light on while it's running. Did you check the internets? A 5 second google search told me most of Toyota's OBDI codes. QUOTE Here are the common codes for Toyota vehicles 1988-95: Code 11 Momentary interruption in power supply to ECU (electronic control unit or computer) up to 1991 Code 12 Engine revolution signal missing Code 13 Rpm signal to ecu missing above 1000 rpm Code 14 Igniter signal to ecu missing Code 16 A/T control signal missing from ecu Code 21 Main oxygen sensor signal fault Code 22 Water temperature sensor circuit fault Code 23 and 24 Intake air temperature signal fault Code 25 Air/fuel ratio LEAN Code 26 Air/fuel ratio RICH Code 27 Sub-oxygen sensor signal or heater circuit fault Code 28 No.2 oxygen sensor/heater signal fault Code 31 and 32 Air flow meter circuit or Vacuum sensor signal fault Code 34 and 36 Turbo-charging pressure signal fault Code 35 Altitude compensation sensor signal fault Code 41 Throttle position circuit fault Code 42 Vehicle speed sensor circuit Code 43 No starter signal to the ecu Code 51 AC signal on; DL contact off (in trany shifter with diagnostic connector jumped) Code 52, 53 and 55 Knock sensor fault Code 71 EGR system malfunction Code 72 Fuel cut solenoid signal fault Code 78 Fuel pump control signal fault Code 81, 83, 84 and 85 TCM communication fault Check the connections at the distributor to make sure you have them all plugged in. Otherwise you should just go buy a remanufactured distributor assembly and replace yours. Problem solved. -------------------- 1991 MR2 - T-tops - Crimson Red - Gen3 3SGTE - Lots of money
 I'm not really an asshole, but I play one on the internet. **** Photobucket |
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Nov 15, 2012 - 10:21 AM
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 29, '11 From Haltom City, Texas Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
It sounds like he is having starter issues instead of distributor problems if his engine wont even crank.
In this order- Check the battery, should be a minimum 12.4 volts Check the battery clamps and cables. They should be corrosion free and tight(you should be unable to wiggle the clamps with bare hands) You can check the large B+ terminal on the starter. The cable goes straight to the battery so it should have 12.4+ volts at all times(unless the starter is being cranked) The smaller wire on the starter is a solenoid wire. If you use a paperclip or wire and touch the solenoid terminal to the big B+ terminal on the starter it should crank the starter if the starter is good. If the starter is good, try swapping the starter relay(located in the fuse box under the hood) with another relay located next to it. If that doesnt do it its probably your ignition switch. Anyways, good luck with it. |
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Nov 15, 2012 - 11:12 AM
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 5, '05 From pineapple under the sea Currently Offline Reputation: 9 (100%) |
Could be. The ECU checks for this signal from the ignitor when the ignition switch is in the start position. If the starter doesn't turn because there is a problem with the starting system, the ECU won't receive the RPM signal and can throw code 12.
Never had a bad starter throw a code on my old ST... and I went through two of them. -------------------- 1991 MR2 - T-tops - Crimson Red - Gen3 3SGTE - Lots of money
I'm not really an asshole, but I play one on the internet. **** Photobucket |
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Nov 15, 2012 - 2:46 PM
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 29, '11 From Haltom City, Texas Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
QUOTE (95CelicaST @ Nov 15, 2012 - 11:12 AM) Could be. The ECU checks for this signal from the ignitor when the ignition switch is in the start position. If the starter doesn't turn because there is a problem with the starting system, the ECU won't receive the RPM signal and can throw code 12. Never had a bad starter throw a code on my old ST... and I went through two of them. This was my thinking exactly. Sometimes I get a code 12 myself even though I replaced my distributor not long ago. No starting or ignition issue has manifested itself so I just ignore it and it goes off until the next rare occurance. |
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Nov 15, 2012 - 4:11 PM
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Enthusiast Joined Dec 8, '03 From Lancaster CA Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) |
its cranking just not starting. when you say its not cranking, that means nothing is happening. sounds to me like its cranking (turning over) but not firing. check the wiring for NE and G+ if they are not sending a signal to the ECU then it wont fire.
-------------------- 2001 Celica GT-S Turbo
1997 Supra TT 6speed 1997 Celica 3MZ/1MZ swap 1990 Celica All-Trac |
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Nov 15, 2012 - 6:13 PM
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Enthusiast Joined May 29, '12 From NC Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
No when i say it's not cranking i mean it's not cranking/turning over. The only thing that happens when i try to start it is the fuel pump will come on every time i turn the key to crank it instead of it priming before hand/pre start up. As long as i try and crank it the fuel pump keep's running until i stop.
Dizzy is new and i'd say it's pulling the code because it won't start. Yes i did search and had no luck, i'm glad you did though. I'll be rechecking the starter related above when i get some free time, thanks folks. -------------------- Cleaning and improving my new found yoter little by little. |
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Nov 15, 2012 - 6:42 PM
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Enthusiast Joined Dec 8, '03 From Lancaster CA Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) |
have you checked the clutch start switch? sounds like its not completing the circuit
-------------------- 2001 Celica GT-S Turbo
1997 Supra TT 6speed 1997 Celica 3MZ/1MZ swap 1990 Celica All-Trac |
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Nov 22, 2012 - 9:04 AM
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Enthusiast Joined May 29, '12 From NC Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
Found and fixed, it was the saftey start sensor on the back of the starter. The soldering broke so i took it apart and re soldered it.
Thank's for the help fella's. -------------------- Cleaning and improving my new found yoter little by little. |
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