6G Celicas Forums

Well I just woke up my convertible from a long Winter nap and put the top down and was reminded of a problem I did not take care of last fall, the rear windows! The drivers side rear window falls off track and the passenger side window stays on track but seems a little off. I asked the boys at the local Toyota dealer to give me a price to fix it and they want both an arm and a leg! They talked about replacing motors and such and I thought the motor works, the window just seems to fall off track. I am sure this is a common problem but I am new to the convertible so I wanted to get input from this Celica community! Also, the roof leaks at the drivers side window and seems like I needs new seals?? The top is original, the car spent its entire life in Southern California until a few years ago. I am sure the top wasnt up much!! I appreciate any help to keep this baby going, she looks amazing! Kevin

Great to hear you're getting some help, even if quote is expensive. Took my 1995 convertible beauty to mechanic (former Toyota Certified Master Mechanic) because right rear quarter window broke in the down position. Pack a lunch, here's the story. Verified by Toyota corporate, all Celicas in 90's were shipped from Japan as coupes and those destined to be convertibles, to respected ASC (American Sunroof Co) in Long Beach for conversion. Because chopping required body fortification/modifications, window mechanisms weren't Toyota parts, but custom parts. Now that ASC has gone out of business, I'm stuck. Mechanic, bless his heart, spent considerable time with surgery/diagnostics and said I needed a window regulator & motor, a subassembly guide and subassembly plate. I was able to source (& buy) all of those myself and provided them to him. Despite iterative tweaking of a handful of separate adjustments, he just couldn't make it work right and sent me on my way with the window in place (thank goodness), but not workable, cautioning me that the new rollers are under pressure and could snap off (again) if I rolled it down. He had no advice for me on how to resolve this unfortunately. This is California--would hate to have to keep the top up. Any of you have any good ideas? Kevin--get yours fixed/aligned before your rollers pop off (several different sources said that's a common problem) and mechanism bends the track and you need replacement parts AND labor! My problem happened in one fell swoop so no warning. Also, my top doesn't completely seal either. Usually a few drips on either side where the top meets the corners of the windshield, but I can live with that. I generally wash the car myself anyway without that high pressure water so problem is minimized. Thanks, Melinda

Melinda, thanks for the info! I went to a local auto parts store to ask about the parts and they said they could not get them but had the number to a huge import salvage yard so they called them and believe it or not they said the had the regulator and motor available but that I would also have to buy the window too (probably didnt want to take it off) for $200 plus shipping! Sounds like a steal to me, just not sure if you get any kind of guarantee the motor will work but it should be guaranteed against DOA. What do you think? The only issue is it is still a 14 yr old motor but didnt you say ASC went out of business so can you even get a new motor? If not, I will have to see where the local Toyota dealer was getting it from.... If anyone else has any info about this issue I would appreciate it...

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...ccmd2002+window

Most likely you just have to replace the plate that has the little bushings. About 40-50 at the dealer I believe. It's a PITA though so get the alcohol and anger management classes ready. Hopefully yours will be less painful than mine was.

I appreciate the link to "How to Fix the Rear Convertible Window"! That is money! I ordered the regulator, motor and window from Brimms Imports in Kenton, OH thru Advance Auto Parts so I should be in business the first part of next week...

Check that.. the phone just rang and it was Advance telling me Brimms just called and told them their regulator was all rusted out because the top was gone off the car so water, snow and everything else got down inside the window! DARN!

Back to the drawing board! Can anybody out there help???

Kevin

Yeah, I went to the salvage yard myself where the guy used a testing device to show me the motor worked before I laid down any money. Salvage guy warned me that I probably also needed the plate with the rollers (I guess they're called bushings) since those were vulnerable to breaking off. He was right--I had to start a new quest for the subassembly plate after returning to the mechanic with the motor and regulator I first had to source. Also, removing the plate from the window is apparently a pain because my mechanic gave me the whole window with plate to physically compare configuration with new part before laying down more money for part that wasn't identical. So far, said and done, I'm still running around with my window up and it's making me cranky. Thank you, njccmd2002, for the great how-to with photos and clear diagrams! Wish I had this to give to mechanic before he had to learn by trial and error--he said there's not a lot of info on this. He also said that the next time someone with a 95 Celica calls him complaining of window problems, he would send them away--so clearly a PITA, as mentioned previously.

I think I will pay the money and let the local Toyota dealer install it. The warranty on the part and work is worth it after hearing the horror stories about trying to do this on the cheap!

lol i just did this yesterday on my right side not... it was a PITA. The window is in, i just need to adjust it...

I still had that little socket i shaved

Does anyone know a good, stand-up mechanic in Los Angeles area (preferably near LAX) who would have the skill to perform this? I have the parts in, as mentioned previously, but they are not seated correctly. Might not be as awful if job doesn't need to be started from scratch, but maybe it does. A referral would be much appreciated! Thank you.

The local Master Tech at Kings Toyota did it for me and it was not an easy job! Glad I didnt try it myself! I have a used window regulator that came out of it, it was good but already bought a new one so I had them replace it.. Maybe eBay it?? Drove the car in the opening day parade at the county fair and it was a hit, too bad they dont make them anymore!

I realize this is an old post, but if you still have the pics of the 1998 celica convertible window assembly, i would appreciate it if you could forward them to me. My windows do not line up when raised and lowered. this causes a lot of air noise while driving down the road. Also any thought on why the topd does not seal well to the top of the windshield frame?

Below is a post of someone who had received them from you previously.

thanks
Mike

Yeah, I went to the salvage yard myself where the guy used a testing device to show me the motor worked before I laid down any money. Salvage guy warned me that I probably also needed the plate with the rollers (I guess they're called bushings) since those were vulnerable to breaking off. He was right--I had to start a new quest for the subassembly plate after returning to the mechanic with the motor and regulator I first had to source. Also, removing the plate from the window is apparently a pain because my mechanic gave me the whole window with plate to physically compare configuration with new part before laying down more money for part that wasn't identical. So far, said and done, I'm still running around with my window up and it's making me cranky. Thank you, njccmd2002, for the great how-to with photos and clear diagrams! Wish I had this to give to mechanic before he had to learn by trial and error--he said there's not a lot of info on this. He also said that the next time someone with a 95 Celica calls him complaining of window problems, he would send them away--so clearly a PITA, as mentioned previously.

Hi Mike. My window is STILL not fixed--what a pain! Anyway, I didn't receive the instructions directly from njccmd2002. I just found them in another discussion. Here's the link: http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...ccmd2002+window. Good luck!! Melinda

ok so who is still having problems?

The windows are not that hard to fix. Yes they are a pita.

I have fixed tweaked both of mine several times. It seems an easy way is to remove the whole assembly it is a bit hard but if you
remove the three bolts on the assembly/4 on motor the whole thing will come out. Window and motor and everything but you need to remove the stops that are in there(10 mm). I dont even use the middle bushing as they broke i put the middle ones on the ends and the windows work still. Putting it back in you must drop it down carefully and get the 3 bolts to line up and the motor bolts also . It is tricky but possible. When you put your top up make sure to bring windows down an inch or so.
Make sure to adjust up stopps and window angle upon reasembly and grease the heck out of the bushings.
Good luck

the trick to align the window is not to make it come all the way up, but barely 1 inch before it closes.

i took pics of it before taking it off, and compared with other side... now its a 3 hour job for me.... its easyyy

I'm still having problems and I don't do my own work. I live in Los Angeles/LAX area and the mechanic I used to use has his own shop, but was previously a Master Certified Mechanic for Toyota. He spent a lot of time trying to fix it (said there wasn't a lot of info he could find either online or through his contacts about it). He got the window in place, but not aligned properly so warned me against using the window (and consequently, the top) and said he's "done with it". At least it's keeping the rain out, but not a great seal. I don't know who here locally who knows how to fix this. Local Toyota didn't have the story (had to research online & verify with Toyota Corporate) that I outlined above about ASC going out of business/lack of customized parts, etc. so I'm not that sure I want to pay $$ for a loaner car while they try to figure it out. Do you think if I printed out your excellent demo and give it to them, they'd be successful (not an explicit endorsement, just opinion)? Would love to get my convertible back up and fully operational soon, even if it is winter.

I am at work and have time so here it is
Remove seat by pulling up
Remove plastic panel
Remove speaker bracket and unplug speaker
Remove extra crash brace
Remove window seal and little metal trim with a small

Srewdriver,don't drop the little screws. Get a magnet stick
Remove the up stops scratch the metal to mark them.a small 10 mm wrench will do.
Unscrew the 4 motor bolts,unplug the motor.
pull the window and motor straight up and out
if the front bushing is bad pop off the middle one and using vice group and a towel
Squeeze it on the front. I am missing my middle bushings on both windows. They work still.put grease in the rails using a long screwdriver.clean everything. Hold the window and drop it down into the rails. Get the busgings into respective slot.
Tape or hold it and have the motor arm facing back
Get the motor into place it only goes one way.get the 4 bolts on motor and put the up stops back.plug the motor in and raise it it where u want and tighten upstop front and back.u wcan adjust angle of window ECT.
Once that is done put everything together.i suggest a drill with sockets to make this much faster.with window down u can put trim back on. I did this myself several times but with a helper it would be easier probably.
U can print this out and it goes faster than it sounds.
If you only have 1bushing left u will need the new bushing plate from Toyo.
Good luck




And

We have a 1999 Vert, and the same problem. Motors worked fine but we had to replace the little PLASTIC rollers that go down the plate. Why would they make those out of plastic!??? All worked well after those were replaced but they WERE a PITA to replace.

I have a 1995 Convertible and just replaced the rear window mounting plates. My drivers rear window pretty much just fell down and the other side is barely working. The nylon roller bushing which keep the window in the tracks break after many years. You can't just replace those bushings, you have to replace the entire plate they and the window glass are mounted to. Luckily the parts are still available from Toyota! I paid about $52 /each from my local toyota dealer. I was able to replace the window plate without removing seats or much anything else from the interior.

Difficulty level : 7 out of 10 - Mainly for the patience, tools and finger dexterity required

Tools I Needed:

Phillips Screwdriver
10 mm open end wrench
Vise grip pliers
Dremel tool with metal cutting blade
Magnet stick to pick up dropped parts LOL
Flashlight to see dropped parts
Big 90 degree needle nose pliers (or spanner wrench - specialty tool)
Lithium Grease
Penetrating oil

1. Put the top down.

2. Remove the top plastic cover next to the window and drop it out of the way (2 phillips screws)

3. Slightly pull the lower side plastic interior panel into the car just off the door opening. Enough to get to the Window parts.

4. Facing into the car from outside looking down. There are two window stops with rubber bumpers on either side of the window that need to be out of the way to get window out and back in. Note their positions, maybe scratch lines. The one on the right needs to come all the way out, the bolt clip will stay in. The one on the left I was able to loosen enough to get it out of the way without removing it. (10 mm bolts)

5. The first fun (heh) part. Between rear and center of window is where the regulator is attached to the plate with rear roller.
I tried to loosen the 10 mm friction nut but the whole shaft would just spin. Couldn't get a good grip on the shaft with needle nose pliers. I had to get my Dremel tool with the metal cutting blade and carefully slice the nylon roller in places until I could get it off of the shaft. Then I was able to get my vise grips on the shaft to hold it while I loosened the 10mm friction nut. There are also 2 small washers. You'll probably drop them so you need the telescoping magnet.

6. Pull the window out.

7. The washer nuts that hold the glass. Disks with two oval holes. The specialty tool is called a spanner wrench, I used a pair of big 90 degree needle nose pliers. I sprayed the nuts with penetrating oil, waited a few minutes. It's a bit of a trick to get the right amount of downward pressure and torque to turn them.

8. Mount glass to new plate. I was able to order new plastic window mounting washers but the ones that came out looked re-useable. Put it back together the way it came off.

9. Get some fresh grease on the window tracks. I used a 3 foot piece of trim wood and tried to slop some into the tracks.

10. Put the window in, Takes some finagleing to angle it in and get the rollers in the tracks. Getting the regulator arm through proper bolt is fun too but once it's on it will hold the window up and in place while you get to the hardest part.

11. Putting the regulator washers and nut on. I carefully lowered the window an inch or two where my fingers could just barely reach the bolt. A little sticky grease on my finlgers, a couple drops and magnet pick ups later they were on. I have big hands and fingers so getting the nut on and starting to thread was just barely possible. Have patience, a flashlight and that magnet pole on hand or this will be impossible.

12. Lower window and put the stops back in where they used to be.

13. Test up and down, match with front window and with top up and down. Mine lined up just the same.

14. Put the rest back together and you're done.

This post has been edited by tymish: May 13, 2013 - 10:42 AM