6G Celicas Forums

you stock gt4 is 15mm and any SS-II/SS-III with front superstrut is 14mm

Tanabe is 17mm and C-one is 18mm. So your stocks might be 16mm and ss-III could very well be 15mm. superstrut is a better built geometrical suspension.

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Nov 12, 2013 - 6:41 PM

i wonder if the front bar from an st204 would fit an st205 ...


on every car ive seen, they have big swaybars up front and smaller ones at the rear,

when i bought my whiteline adjustable 20mm rear bar, i realised this would make my car the opposite of every other car on the street and im really not sure what this will do to my handling...

i haven't yet installed this bar yet as im still not up to that level of driving where i could be comfortable overspeeding a corner, brake drifting and full throttling into the direction i need to go

i figure the natural tendency to understeer is what makes the car "safe" for me

AWD cars are similar to FWD cars in that they tend to understeer. A bigger rear swaybar stiffens up the rear which increases oversteer, or reduces understeer.

Stiffer rear suspension in general means more oversteer. Stiffer front suspension increases understeer. I think thats how it goes

ISH!

the rear swaybar will lift the outter wheel off the ground when the weight comes off

but

setting the rear dampers harder seems to give more traction back there... seems to me anyways

Having the rear dampers harder for more traction makes sense, since the strut should rebound more quickly, thereby aiding the return of full contact patch for the tire.

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Nov 28, 2012 - 3:06 PM

Stiffer springs in the rear help to both improve traction and increase oversteer. Most semi-dedicated drag cars use undrivable rear springs to aid in launching. Weight transfer from front to rear breaks the front tires loose but makes the rear tires stick harder (a useless and bad side effect for FWD cars but could be beneficial to some AWD cars, like an open-diff front, torsen rear setup).

Weight transfer is mostly beneficial to RWD cars but it gets more and more dangerous the more torque you put down to the ground (wheelies are bad) There's a couple videos of MY2010+ Mustangs breaking front suspension parts because of an unexpected wheelie for not using wheelie bars since it's a street car.

EDIT: I thought you said springs, but stiffer dampers will help reduce wheel hop which causes loss of traction. You might also want to look into stiffer rear differential mounts/cushion (like polyurethane) if you want the best traction back there.

This post has been edited by Syaoran: Nov 28, 2012 - 3:31 PM

it is very possible to fit the st204 sway bar on st205 suspension. Actually I'm going to do that very soon if I cannot find anybody to buy my superstrut suspension. There is the idea of using a torch to bend it to match the mounting points of the superstrut sway bar. Actually look in the superstrut thread on the last page, I discussed this but nobody replied to it...

Torching a sway bar, and bending it to fit seems like it would cause extreme weak points at the bends, no?

I did measure, it was 16mm. Installed them today

Is anyone else having crazy loud creak noises? Did I install mine wrong all along?

Rubbing on the frame somewhere, I bet.

Polyurethane requires lubrication to prevent, or at least minimise, noise. If the bushings didn't come with some an effective replacement I've used is a brand of lubricant called Super Lube. The Multi-Purpose Grease with PTFE is what I used on my polyurethane bushings to replace the original grease. A 1/2-ounce tube covered three applications, approximately matching my oil change intervals.

^ This.

I've had mine on for around 7-10k miles now and haven't heard a sound from them yet.

i had a annoying creak on teh front sway bars, but it finally went away. the creek happened after 2,000 miles of new grease sway bar bushing. now its silent again...

My experience was the grease originally provided by Suspension Techniques with my new anti-sway bar lasted far longer than the Super Lube, but then it's specifically designed for this purpose. The grease ST provided was definitely much thicker and stickier than the Super Lube, but since relubing the bushings is easy I decided the expense of shipping a tube of the actual polyurethane grease up from the U.S. wasn't worth the bother.

I've lubed the hell out of them... I used the whole provided tube on both but still they constantly creak. I'm wondering if my bracket is pinching them tighter than they should be? Or maybe I have to lower the car and mount them with it lowered?

So you re-lubricate them every 3k miles?

This post has been edited by RabidTRD: Dec 4, 2012 - 2:58 PM

I relube mine about that, but I suspect that's because I'm not using the exact right type of lubricant. As I said, the Super Lube grease I'm using is much less viscous than the grease provided by Suspension Techniques.