6G Celicas Forums

4th gen st215

We can clearly hear the turbo spooling. So, I'm with your friend about the leak on the cold side. Check all your intercooler piping/joints. This is weird that a simple boost leak test do not reveal anything...

Good luck!

Sam

thanks sam!! also i wanted to mention (not sure if i did) but my idle is VERY stragne, goes to 500 then hovers around 800-9 at times... when I cruise my AFR goes off the chart to WAY lean (18afr) and the car stutters would the boost leak attribute to this?

This post has been edited by easternpiro1: Oct 10, 2012 - 2:28 PM

Boost or vaccum leak yes.....is your intakr manifold tight and sealed!?

you know what? I was thinking about that the other day, I have an oil leak back there somewhere... i wonder if its worked its way back there, and mucked things up? I was so focused on the other areas (since i never went near the intake manifold) that it never really crossed my mind... Is this possible?

quick update, after eyeballing my vacuum lines again, I found a hole about the width of a #2 pencil in a vacuum hose leading to my throttle body from my intake... I cut the hose below the hole and hooked it back up.... still no boost. my car is reading -6 vac when I am on it full throttle.



I also checked my intake manifold and it seems secure. I will take my valve cover off and check from the top as I see traces of oil on my fuel rail and dripping a bit from under my intake manifold.... possibly this oil leak has something to do with it?

you are reading -6 inHg at WOT? dude there is something wrong! on an NA car at WOT you should read 0. so thats telling me that your gauge is not calibrated. what does it say when the engine is not running?

man honestly I dont remember what It says when not running. I will def check tomorrow. my gauge is Teed into a line going to my intake manifold, Its a Tru boost EBC but it is not hooked up to control boost yet. I was running off of stock wastegate pressure (which initially read 8psi)

Matt... I think 80% of this "issue" is your boost gauge.
Smaay is right, if your turbo was somehow bad, missing, etc.. you would at the very least reach 0psi on the gauge.

Get yourself a nice VDO boostgauge, not expensive but work flawlessly

I will definitelly be inspecting the gauge this weekend ill look into resetting it and checking the line that leads to it. will let yall know what happens this wkend!

is it electric or mechanical? if its electric, it need to be hooked up to 12V that does not turn off when you turn the key to start.

its electric. you mean dosent turn off when the car is turned on? or when it the key is turned on to the ACC stage?

get a good ol'mechanical!

no when you turn the key to START 90% of your electronics shut off. you need to find a source that does NOT turn OFF when you turn the key to START

ah ok it stays on BUT guess what? Leak found on hot side (right after turbo and a smaller one found on cold side (not too far before the BOV)


Cant believe after testing, re testing taking off, readjusting etc. etc. it was here... where I started my search.... IDK why the previous tests didnt show the leak coming from here but Im hoping this is the cause of my trouble. I re adjusted the piping again, and noticed that my car drove at -2 in vac this time instead of -5 or -6 but eventually it went back to -6. I will be getting as much piping welded as I can when my pal gets another welding machine.

I dont want to get my hopes up though....

This post has been edited by easternpiro1: Dec 11, 2012 - 3:21 AM

here's video sorry for the motion.


cold side boost leak


this is the larger leak....

hot side leak

This post has been edited by easternpiro1: Dec 11, 2012 - 4:06 AM

Video is set to private?...

but good to hear you got it figured out. I know this has been a long time coming.

Kevin

fixed

glad you figured it out! its always satisfying when you figure stuff out.