6G Celicas Forums

Hi,

I have a 1995 Celica GT 2.2 that will not start. The engine turns over but does not catch. Any ideas what it is? how to diagnosis it?

most likely the coil in the distributor went bad. Is it getting fuel?

Actually I just replaced the distributor a couple of months ago.

How can I tell if it is getting gas?

Thanks

Pull off end of fuel rail and have someone start it, if fuel gushes out you're good.

The first diagnostic step for an engine that cranks but doesnt get ignition is to spray starter fluid into the intake. If the engine starts when you spray starter fluid into it, you arent getting fuel, if it still wont start, your not getting spark.

Or the compression is too low via headgasket, fried rings, dropped valve(s) , ect.

I would spray some ether into the tb and try to start it to check for fuel first. If it still doesnt start... i would
Stick a screw driver into the spark wires and ground it out while trying to start it.( one at a time) to check for spark.
If there is still spark then check compression in each cylinders. This will indicate whether it has a bad hg or timing issue. Ect.

these are good tests. start there.

It started after sitting for a couple of hours. Seems like maybe it is still a little hesitant... like maybe not enough gas is being pumped? clogged filter or dying pump?

Doe pumps work intermittently sometimes?

Thoughts?

I am kind of broke and not the best mechanic so any help is appreciated.

A dying fuel pump will make it so at higher speeds.... its hard to run. Sounds like the same problem as a rav4 i wash working on. Sometimesh it wants to start and sometimes not. It seems to not get enough fuel pressure. When it doesnt wantg to start ... do the tests i mentioned. If it starts with ether... then its def fuel issue. From there... follow lines all the way back. Example... unhook the fpr and look to see gas spilling out. If no gas.... go down to the next thing. Fuel filter... it should be under the intake box. Unhook the top connection. If no fuel spill... go to under connection and so on until you see gas spilling out. You may need to turn your key to on position to have fuel pump kick some pressure through. Of course fuel pump will be the last thing and if u get to that point... you most likely need to replace fuel pump.

If the car didnt start up with ether... then check your spark. Via screwdriver. If no spark when grounded out... inspect the dizzy for any damage. Most likely from a coolant leaking on dizzy. Take the 3 screws off the cap and inspect coil pack for cracks. Its the rectangle thing that has a thick layer of clear stuff. There should be no cracks on it. If any damage. Replace dizzy. Also dont forget to inspect the cap and rotor for heavy wear. Such as the stubs that the rotor rubs to transfer spark. May even be foul plugs. Which are a couple bucks a piece at the local auto parts store.

If you have spark and fuel... get a compression reader. Pull one spark plug out and test for psi. Reinstall plug and continue to the next. If the two middle cylinders are lower than the two outter ones... headgasket is bad, head is warped, or both. If no compression in any cylinders.... then you have a stuck valve or dropped valve.

If you are too lazy to do these simple troubleshooting .... if its a hatch.... tow it to iowa and give me the car for free and i will take good care of it. Lol.

If its a coupe.... get full coverage insurance and use tnt or c4 which ever u prefer and collect insurance lol. Jk i just dont like the coupe look lol.

Well i hope this helps.

Oh yeah.... also dont forget to check all of your ground wires!!! I have seen so many people who cant start their car and sell them to me for dirt cheap then i find out its just a bad ground wire connection. Lol.

Im in the shower right(lmao ) now so I cant remember exactly, but if you do the undo a fuel line you can open the toyota diagnostic port in from of the mastercylinder and jump a wire between B+ and the fuel pump contact. Alot safer then turning the key and having fuel spray everywhere while you run back and forth.

If you do the method with starting fluid(ether) you will eliminate 50% of the potential problems with your very first diagnostic test.
You can also check for spark, as was stated above undo the cylinder 1 sparkplug, insert a screwdriver(or an old sparkplug if you have one, I keep one in my toolbox for this test) into the plug wire so that it is touching the metal contact inside and touch the metal shaft of the screwdriver to any metal surface in the engine compartment. Try not to touch any part of the car if you hold the wire while someone else cranks it, and dont touch the metal on the screwdriver while cranking to avoid getting an unpleasant zap of +20,000 volts. If you use the number 1 plug wire its long enough that you can place it so that YOU can see the spark while turning the key, without a helper. The sparks must be bright blue, a red or orange spark is insufficient for ignition.

Forgot to mention.... when doing the spark test.... dont forget to pull outthe fuel pump fuse so the engine has no way of firing up

Thanks so much for all the advice. It has started up the last couple of days without a problem. I guess I will see what it is when it happens again.

general is, fuel, spark, and in regards to air. and with those you can drill into the specific problem.

This post has been edited by trdproven: Jan 21, 2013 - 7:45 AM