My 5sfTe project, Photo's are big 56k warning... sorry Options

[1bwilson]

I should get all the gauges finished up tomorrow along with my final few couplings in the mail. Once thats all done all thats left is something to tune the fuel out a bit and tuning/dyno time. Anyone know how hot the first intake pipe comming out of the turbo can get? As you can see both my stock o2 and wideband o2 are VERY close (wideband actually rubs against it) the pipe. Im not sure if the pipe is going to get to hot for them and possible melt the wires. Once I have the couplings Ill know for sure actually how close they will be and possible re-adjust the piping again. Ill also snap a few shots of everything cleaned up along with the batt relocation and the badass RCR rear 3 point strut bar I got from Jeff

[6strngs]

the first intake pipe coming off the turbo gets extremely hot! I wouldn't want to touch it after the car were running for a few minutes. I'm pretty sure it could get hot enough to melt rubber insulation off of wiring.

[1bwilson]

Ok heres a bunch more pictures I took today. Didnt get the couplings I was hoping for (Snail mail is running wayyy late. If I dont get them tomorrow Im going to start calling about them).

Got the IC piping off while I run some of the gauge lines and senders.


Stock O2 and UEGO WIdeband on the KO downpipe.


You can see exactly how tight of a fit the KO downpipe is to the earls relocater.


EGT hole cut into the heat shield for the bung and sender... I guess you could say thats the bung hole in the heat shield


Hole in the fire wall with a nice grommet for all the gauge wires.


My mess that will soon be the gauge settup behind the Lotek 3 piller pod.


Few shots of my DG midpipe.



And now the Batt relocation and RCR strut bar . Starts here along with a slight cruise control relocation.


Running under the car.


Into the trunk and threw the carpet.








Still enough room for a set of golf clubs to fit in the back!

This post has been edited by 1bwilson: Oct 27, 2007 - 6:02 PM

[presure2]

lookin good bro!

[lagos]

i dont know how safe it is to run your battery wiring under the car like that. its going to get exposed to rain, snow, rocks, etc...

[1bwilson]

Im not intending on driving the car in the rain or snow and theres even the option in playing in rocks Ill be driving my jeep already. Ive had the car for 8 years now and put less then 10k miles on it. Its only going to be driven under the best conditions. I am a bit concerned about the very back of the cables though where the dip just a bit lower then the rest, there might be a chance for them to rub speed bumps, but Ill be making sure its tucked up nicely before I start driving the car. Im not happy with the power cable and will be geting a slightly lesser gauge in the next few days. The one Im using is just to thick and doesnt want to work well with others.

[6strngs]

I suppose we don't have this problem since our ECU is on the other side of the car, but my automotive teacher was talking about how some people will run the cables for their stereo too close to the ECU and the electromagnatic waves would interfere with the computer in the ECU and cause things to go haywire so people would say that their cars ran fine until the turned up the volume on the stereo and then the car would die. So what my teacher recommended was to run the wires under the car. but he also suggested to sheild them with something.

[1bwilson]

Turned it over for a bit tonight to prime the motor. Everythings getting oil but the turbo. The cold night settled in and I gave up due to exhaustion. Im off tomorrow so along with grabbing a air filter Ill be sure to get it running.... hopefully. Good news is nothing smelled like it was burning (Wires) and I was getting plenty of fuel so I know I installed the walbro correctly and the injectors sat right when I put them in.

[6strngs]

are you using stock exhaust?

[1bwilson]

Greddy SP, DG mid pipe and a KO downpipe, all 2.5 inches

[6strngs]

Greddy SP, DG mid pipe and a KO downpipe, all 2.5 inches

you should get a test pipe for that cat. you'll be running pretty rich and it'll probably clog up over time. plus you'll get a couple extra horsepower

[1bwilson]

Oh that little thing?...... I wouldnt worrie about that little thing

[1bwilson]

So im not getting oil flow. My relocater is getting oil to the filter, the cams are not getting oil, the sender unit is not getting oil, the turbo is not getting oil. Since some oil is flowing Im going to hope that means the pump is working and that something is just not flowing properly.

First thought is the earls filter, Ill get this noob question out of the way, could I have the lines mixed up with the relocater to be getting the wrong flow? I assumed it didnt matter but then again its something so easy to do I didnt put any thought into the actual lines besides keeping them run safely.

[presure2]

So im not getting oil flow. My relocater is getting oil to the filter, the cams are not getting oil, the sender unit is not getting oil, the turbo is not getting oil. Since some oil is flowing Im going to hope that means the pump is working and that something is just not flowing properly.

First thought is the earls filter, Ill get this noob question out of the way, could I have the lines mixed up with the relocater to be getting the wrong flow? I assumed it didnt matter but then again its something so easy to do I didnt put any thought into the actual lines besides keeping them run safely.

YES!
they are one way. there is an "in and out" marked on the filter part of the relocation thingy.
if your not getting flow, reverse the line.

[6strngs]

So im not getting oil flow. My relocater is getting oil to the filter, the cams are not getting oil, the sender unit is not getting oil, the turbo is not getting oil. Since some oil is flowing Im going to hope that means the pump is working and that something is just not flowing properly.

First thought is the earls filter, Ill get this noob question out of the way, could I have the lines mixed up with the relocater to be getting the wrong flow? I assumed it didnt matter but then again its something so easy to do I didnt put any thought into the actual lines besides keeping them run safely.

YES!
they are one way. there is an "in and out" marked on the filter part of the relocation thingy.
if your not getting flow, reverse the line.

for sure. I know there is an "in" and "out" marked on the filter side, but there isn't on the engine side adaptor. I remember when I was putting mine together I had to stop what I was doing and come here on the internet to look for pictures of which line went where in the block adaptor like 4 or 5 times because I kept forgetting and I wanted to make sure I got it right... I would tell you which goes where but I can't remember again

[1bwilson]

I knew it was something that easy, thank god it wasn't the oil pump. Might have had to take another 2 years off if I had to replace that . Ill have to swap the lines tomorrow after work. Thanks guys. I knew you would have the perspective I didnt have at the time.

[1bwilson]

Ok so the oil lines were swapped, oil is flowing freely now. Got everything all tightned up and the car started. Idle is "okay" but anything more then that smokes like a mofo and the car almost cuts off trying to return to idle. I dont think its driveable at all atm but I also dont have anything taking fuel out. This is the point where Im about in the dark. I knew I had the install almost down pat but tuning is another thing all together. Is this about how I should expect it to act before a neo/emanage running the fuel? I gotta fiddle with the EGT because its not reading anything but the AF is pegged at 10, Im sure thats not good considering its blinking while reading 10 , Im fairly sure this is due to all the fuel being dumped in at idle. Any words of adivce would be very helpful.

[presure2]

Ok so the oil lines were swapped, oil is flowing freely now. Got everything all tightned up and the car started. Idle is "okay" but anything more then that smokes like a mofo and the car almost cuts off trying to return to idle. I dont think its driveable at all atm but I also dont have anything taking fuel out. This is the point where Im about in the dark. I knew I had the install almost down pat but tuning is another thing all together. Is this about how I should expect it to act before a neo/emanage running the fuel? I gotta fiddle with the EGT because its not reading anything but the AF is pegged at 10, Im sure thats not good considering its blinking while reading 10 , Im fairly sure this is due to all the fuel being dumped in at idle. Any words of adivce would be very helpful.

you need to pull ~15% or more fuel at idle.
it WILL run like total crap otherwise.
if you have a fedral spec car, it will be even more pronounced.
im pulling ~-20% of my duty cycle out @ idle, plus -15% of my airflow to get ~14-15:1, with the EMU

[1bwilson]

Well then I guess its time to order something then hehe. Thanks so much Manny for the quick replys, helps a ton knowing I can ask a question and not wait 2-3 days for a good solid answer. Since I dont have much more to do to the car I guess Ill post some "Finished" pictures. Pics inc.

[1bwilson]

Ok heres a "few" more pics

Gauges finished up, for the most part. EGT isnt reading tempiture atm.



Oil filter relocater properly hooked up and flowing freely


Bay shot


Front shot/hood up


Hood down


Side shot if the intercooler. I selected to mount the IC directly below my support and therefore forced me to "fit" the bumper on around the IC and piping. I did this because when I ordered the IC I shipped it to DG for piping welding and it was the easiest way to be sure everything would line up fine. He was using a after market bumper while I had the 94-95.


Shots showing exactly how tight if a fit I had to deal with on the IC piping and stock O2+Wideband.



Money shot, k&n filter is due in monday afternoon.


And last a few shots of what happens to a CF hood when it sits for 6 years with little waxing. CF lovers please cover your eyes.



This post has been edited by 1bwilson: Oct 27, 2007 - 6:07 PM