DEATH's GT2 Progress [Updated 01-24-13], 6 years/60k? Miles and FCUKING RIDICULOUS!!! Options

[lagos]

Dont bother testing the speed sensor. Im telling you, its a known issue with that harness. You just have to look it up in the wiring diagrams to do it correctly. I had to fix the same problem on my car when I first swapped it.

As for celicatech, all you have to do is fill in your birth date (so we can wish you happy birth day) and just the top portion that includes your name/password, etc..
You should be able to leave the rest of the info blank. Stuff like location, is just meant to be your city/state, not your actual address. Any ... if that info IS required to join, Ill bring up the issue with the owner of the site.

[DEATH]

You have no idea what a difference that damn ground wire made!
The quick fix:


I'll run the wire better later but my god the difference! Even the minor things like the windows roll up faster, the dome is brighter etc.
Anyway the car runs smooth as a 5s but with double the power. The gremlins have been beaten into submission - just a few more tweaks and that damn Speedo and I can start having fun with her. Got her on the freeway - no codes. Drove her around in traffic - drives like a Lexus [except the stupid stiff suspension of course but I wouldn't change a thing!]
My smile is threatening to eat my head

Any thoughts on where to put the other two? This clenches it I'm getting the Apex'I ground kit!

I'd really like to thank Presure2, lagos, Alltracman78, 6strngs, Phattyduck and Griffgirl for your input, responses and help. You guys and 6gc.net are the best.

Lagos - wanna help me through that speedo fix bro? I'd really appreciate any notes, pics or remberances you could share with me on how you fixed that [I know it was years ago].

I don't think I've ever put this many (!)'s in a post before

This post has been edited by DEATH: Mar 26, 2008 - 1:29 PM

[DEATH]

OK Speedo issue now. I got these diagrams [they say they are for 5S]:


I have a full bag of all the electrical goodies [wire, connectors, multimeter etc. etc.]. What else do I need and where do I start my search?

[alltracman78]

See the speedo sensor in the diagram?
3 Wires coming out.
Each goes to a connector [white "rectangles" on either side of the sensor], II1 & II2 IIRC.
Those are your 2 connectors.
You need to match up the wires on the 3S harness [where it plugs into these 2 connectors] to those wires.

You might have to backtrack in the 3S harness, and source pins to connect to the 5S connectors, but

3S - 5S
black/red stripe - red/blue stripe
blue - blue
brown - blue/black stripe

[DEATH]

You're the man - I knew one of you guys could make it dummy proof. So does that mean the 3 wires will all have individual connections on the speed sensor or it's talking about down the harness? Cause when I looked it only had one connector just after the sensor.
Lagos - you have anything to add from experience? Were they just pinned incorrectly at the connector for the sensor or is it something upstream of there?
I'll get started right away

This post has been edited by DEATH: Mar 26, 2008 - 3:17 PM

[alltracman78]

The speed sensor has 1 connector.
I doubt the wires are pinned wrong, there is no need to remove them.

The 3SGTE engine harness has 4 connectors that go inside the passenger compartment [5 if you count the one for the blower motor, but it's small and blue, disregard it].
2 connectors go to the ECU [the ECU has 3 connectors total, but in the stock setup 1 connector is part of the dash harness and not part of the engine harness] and 2 connectors connect to the dash harness for things like fuel pump, cruise control, CEL, ect.

Of the 3 wires for the speed sensor, 1 wire goes to 1 of the engine/dash connectors and 1 go to the other one.
The 2 connectors are called II1 and II2. If you look at the white "rectangles" in the wires coming off the sensor, you will see they are labeled II1 and II2.

I have zero experience with the messed up harnesses Lagos is referring to, but I would guess the problem is either those 3 wires are cut or they aren't in the correct positions.
You get to trace them and find out where they are.

[alltracman78]

If you can't understand what the diagrams mean [not just wire colors, everything], side down and read the first few pages of the wiring manual, it explains EVERYTHING.

[DEATH]

Ah! I think I understand now. That coupled with your other response should get me going on what to check for. I'll report back tomorrow hopefully.
Thanks for your patience - I know helping someone this much can be a PITA.

[DEATH]

If you can't understand what the diagrams mean [not just wire colors, everything], side down and read the first few pages of the wiring manual, it explains EVERYTHING.

Actually I make wiring diagrams at work for a living so it ought to be a piece of cake. It's just trying to visualize the actual parts from a few brief glimpses is what's elluding me right now. When I get home and get in the garage i hope all will become clear. I'm thinking about moving one of my PC's downstairs to the garage but I need both of them right now [Hint hint D-man - maybe you could make us one for the garage? Nothing fancy just something to get on-line with and maybe do some tuning later on when you get your emanage or w/e].

I had a thought: Is there some way to make a new harness [jumper really] that would just handle the speedsensor to ecu and gauge cluster stuff? Rather than mess with the old stuff I mean - I have an extra 5s dash wring harness if that would help.

Also is there anything I could take pics of that would help me help you diagnose the problem? I'll be here till 6:30PM CST with the camera and time to kill so LMK.

This post has been edited by DEATH: Mar 26, 2008 - 4:08 PM

[alltracman78]

The easiest way is to find the wires in the 3S harness and connect them to the 5S dash harness.

You DON'T want to replace the dash harness, you have to remove the entire dash to do it.

Once you're in your car and looking at the harness it should make sense.

[lagos]

Bingo. You actually supposed to have a factory ground wire there. For some reason yours was missing.
This made me realize something... the stock alltrac has a metal torque bar that bolts from the top of the alt bracket to the chassis of the car. This probably doubles as a really thick grounding point for the whole motor! Since we leave those torque bars off when we swap (wont fit) it wouldn't be a bad idea to add an extra ground wire there.

Btw, dont waste your money on a 200$ apexi grounding it. Its a total rippoff. Just buy more battery wire from the car parts store, like you did and add any grounds you might want.

Give me some time to look through my wiring notes and see whats up with the speedo wiring.

[6strngs]

definately zip tie that wire to the AC lines or something so it doesn't fall into the belt. and I'm with Lagos, $200 for a grounding kit is outrageous. you can get a grounding kit on ebay for way cheaper and it'll do the same thing, which won't be much... as long as all your factory grounds are good, you shouldn't need a grounding kit. more grounds won't hurt, but I doubt it would be much better than just having good clean grounds where you are supposed to.

[95celgt]

I had installed a ground wire in the same place but bolted it to the wheel well, did you loose it when u pulled the motor out? it fixed the voltage real nice, gave me like 14.5V on the turbo timer:D...............God I miss that car

When I go up to H-town, I hope u let me see the dam thing again lol

[DEATH]

Watching my A/F this morning I think I need to change my pants. She sat just the slightest bit lean during warmup and idle, ran so tightly in the center of the stoich range off boost and in the rich just a touch under boost. All of it ran so smoothly with little bounce and no large dips or spikes. Yes I'm aware that my Megan narrowband gauge isn't 100% accurate [I've got an AEM Uego on order as we speak] but I actually went through several name brand A/F gauges till I settled on this one cause it actually reads alot more accurate than the standard light show type and this one has an actual needle to read [End "I'm not a dumbass" disclaimer].
I was so impressed with the way she ran this morning I'm finding it hard to make it through the work day without getting "sick"
It's nice to see all my hard work and perserverance [and money ] pay off with such results. This is why I love working on my Celicas so much. They really are like women - they just don't give you any sh*t [J/K - nobody get their pannies in a wad]

This post has been edited by DEATH: Mar 27, 2008 - 8:55 AM

[DEATH]

95celGT - Yeah no problem. I would feel the same way [then again I doubt I'll ever sell her].
as for whatever ground may have been there before - Toyota was just working in that area immediaetly before the problem started. Chances are since it was not stock - they didn't know to put it back. Either that or when I rebuilt the motor cause this seemed to make all the issues go away.
Now I need to double check the timing and a few other things but she feels solid and smooth like a stock vehicle again.
You'd be surprised at the shear amount of upgradeing and little issue fixing I've done to this car since I bought it. I've spent well over $2500 on her in two months and I've got solid plans in the works to spend another $2500 on her over the next few months as well [which is why $200 on the Apex'I kit doesn't sound like a bad idea to me - especially if it will reduce alt whine in the audio/video system I'm designing for her (fully removable of course - can't be weighing her down now can I? it'll be really subtle too - got a plan for the one screen I'm installing that will probably turn a few heads on this site]. The A/C delete and the fabrication of the mounts for the intercooler were free other than bracket material, cleaning up of the wiring in the dash, under the hood. Alot of replacement of interior components and using all stock mounting hardware, seat belts, new horns [3], and installing the fcuking crash bar , new window controls, JDM folding Mirrors [still not wired to fold automatically but it's in the works], monitoring equipment, new silicone hose [About 50% completed], The Turbo will be rebuilt soon, SAFC-II installed and some Dyno Tuning, got to get the Koyo Radiator installed, AEM Wideband UEGO, EGT Gauge, Oil Pressure gauge, Water Temp, Volt meter a second Boost gauge to be installed near the turbo so I can read pressure drop across the IC, New tires [might buy some high dollar 5 Spoke Enkies in a similar style], new suspension bushings, Upgraded sway bars, new struts or adjustable coilovers, new upholstry/headliner, and eventually I'd like to get a front bumper made up like Martin's.

definately zip tie that wire to the AC lines or something so it doesn't fall into the belt.

That pic was just taken to illustrate the placement of the ground wire. I don't leave any work on any of my Celicas in this kind of halfassed way. Immediately afterr I took that pic prior to test driving her I secured it up the right way.

This post has been edited by DEATH: Mar 27, 2008 - 8:54 AM

[D-Man]

Yeah, i can vouch for that. Death dont like doing nothing half-ass. He got personally offended the way my intake system was hooked up and had to pull out random pieces to move it a bit. Now he's on my ass about getting a heat shield

I would put money on the table that that wire is placed correctly; and the photo is during the test start.

[DEATH]

Yeah, i can vouch for that. Death dont like doing nothing half-ass. He got personally offended the way my intake system was hooked up and had to pull out random pieces to move it a bit. Now he's on my ass about getting a heat shield

I would put money on the table that that wire is placed correctly; and the photo is during the test start.

Thanks for vouching on that . Actually the heat shield thing wasn't cause I think you need it [remember I'm on the SRI side of the fence - I think the extra piping of a CAI totally negates any meager gain you would get over an SRI] it's just I know you have a thing for flare and I think a nice chrome heatshield would help dress that bay up some. Totally not about the functioning at all as I think they don't actually do anything unless you have an engine where the intake runs across the top of a header or something.

[DEATH]

Give me some time to look through my wiring notes and see whats up with the speedo wiring.

I really appreciate that Lagos. I recall the old days and the wiring that was available to swappers like yourself - it's a testament to ya'll's abilities that you guys were able to work through all that. I have alot of admiration for some of the original swappers from this site.
I'm sure I could work it out through trial and error and alot of buying unnecessary parts but if you can find what it was you did that would save me alot of headaches and money in the long run. Also, I'm running out of time a bit cause the inspection will be up soon and altho there is no way this car is gonna pass Houston's smog test I'd like to make sure everything else is up to code.
That reminds me - I have to get the stock horn switch working cause the switch I installed temporarily works but it's not where my hand instinctivly goes when I need it [and Houston is one of those places you often need your horn].

[D-Man]

That reminds me - I have to get the stock horn switch working cause the switch I installed temporarily works but it's not where my hand instinctivly goes when I need it [and Houston is one of those places you often need your horn].

TRUE!!

But as long as you have a horn button somewhere in the car, i believe your safe (for inspection). Also, the switch for it is on the other side of the air bag if i remember correctly. i'll try to find the thread and print it for you. There was a big one a few weeks ago...

This post has been edited by D-Man: Mar 27, 2008 - 8:58 AM

[95celgt]

I have a complete steering colum with clock spring and switches i can sell u cheap if you need it for the horn//