TPS adjustment, now my idle is silky smoothe Options

[VavAlephVav]

I went to the pick-n-pull to look for another Idle Speed Control Valve for my 5sfe, it was 30 min before close and the people working there acted like I needed to be quick. lucky this one has a large area where the Toyotas are that is Indoors and I found a 95 Camry 2200 which hadn't been sitting out in the weather and grabbed the whole throttle body with ISCV and Throttle Position Sensor. I just took my diagonal cutters to the hoses to be quick about it, this lady at the front had been like "We 'bout ta close" and I was like "well, that's nice".
I picked off the vacuum switch too because I broke the plastic nipple that goes to the R hose the other day. I tried to get the ISCV off real quick but the brass screws weren't coming off easily and I decided to just buy the whole throttle body. of course I regretted it when I stood in line behind these two kids who were trying to haggle this lady for the glass and mirrors in a king cab door over $10 dollars. ...Thought you were closing lady ?? then she told me it was $10 for the vacuum switch and $48 for the throttle-body. :| that's what I get for not just putting small shat in my bag and walking out the door.
Baby Jesus; My Ass.

Then this morning I stopped at Toyota to pick up the nice metal throttle gasket they ordered for me before heading to my brothers to take it apart.
But I had just wanted the extra ISCV and TPS just so that I could swap out if I thought one worked better than the other, but really I had wanted to spend the time to properly calibrate the TPS the way I had seen described in the Toyota book I have on the 5sfe.
the last time I had it apart I didn't have a feeler gauge and I just used a razor blade for what they said should have been a 0.5mm, when I got the feeler gauge and looked at it I could see that a razor blade is about 0.20mm! the book describes the procedure for adjusting the TPS so that the ohm meter goes from zero to where it just barely begins to read resistance with a 0.5mm gauge between the throttle stop. and then when you put a 0.7mm in place it will read infinity. so its pretty sensitive and to get the computer to properly recognize the position of the throttle you can not just guess about how far apart 0.5mm is. like I said I got the feeler gauge and wanted to spend some time setting it up right.



0.020" is 0.508mm, and 0.028" is 0.711mm. which be close enough

The manual says "apply vacuum to the throttle opener diaphragm" but what I did was just back the throttle opener screw off so that the throttle is all the way back on the Other throttle stop screw. This stop screw should be adjusted so that there is no space between it and the hammer when the throttle plate is all the way closed.
now place the 0.020" feeler between the throttle stop screw and the throttle hammer.


If you look at the TPS in the position it is mounted on the car: there are four pins on the plug, the bottom pin is E2, the second pin up is IDL, the third pin from the bottom is VTA, and the top pin is VTC.
loosen the two screws holding the TPS in place just so that you could barely move the TPS

When you hold the leads of your Ohm meter on pins E2, and IDL (the bottom two pins) with the 0.020" feeler in place you will turn the TPS clockwise slowly until it goes from 0 ohms to where it just barely begins to read any ohms at all, Then Tighten the TPS screws down. Even if it only reads 0.2 ohms that is good because once you tighten it down the reading will change slightly.

this says 0.4 ohms. once you tighten the TPS in place it just has to read Below 2.3K ohms and you're good.

Now slip the 0.028" feeler in place between the throttle stop screw.
The hold your meter leads on pins E2 and IDL again and it should read infinity.



also notice I have the throttle body sitting on top of an old light ballast, which for this purpose is just a small box to help me lift it off the table so the table isn't pushing against the feeler gauge and distorting the measurement. this has to be accurate to Two Tenths of a millimeter
Now take the throttle spring by hand and open and close the throttle plate, open, close, all the way in and out making as if you were revving the car up.
now check the readings at pins E2 and IDL again, it must be Infinity with the .028" Feeler in place, and with the 0.020" Feeler it can read anything below 2.4K ohms to o.1 ohms.


Now take the feeler gauge out and let the throttle close all the way. read the resistance between pin E2 and pin VTA(third from bottom), there should be 0.2K-0.8K ohms.


0.674K ohms checks out.

next hold the throttle all the way open and read resistance between E2 and VTA there will be 3.3K-10K ohms (mine was 7something but I couldn't hold the throttle all the way open and the meter leads and hold the camera)
and with the throttle plate all the way open read between E2 and VC(top) there should be 3K-7K ohms.

once you've got this calibrated you don't want to adjust the throttle stop screw make sure it was tight before you did all this. and put the throttle opener screw back the way it was before.

I didn't even need the throttle body I picked up from pick-n-pull but I went ahead and swapped the TPS anyway. both had Toyota TPS and ISCV, but mine was from Japan and the one from the pick-n-pull was Toyota made in USA. I hadn't been able to get all of the silly brass Phillips screws out of the ISCV on my old one, and my drill was in my brothers truck when it got ripped off so I couldn't drill the last one out.
no matter because I had cleaned it out just by spraying cleaner through the hole last time and was convinced it was working as far as the Resistance reading of the coil(19.3-22.3 ohms from the center pin to either of the other two pins) and the function of the rod that turns the valve. I had wondered how much of a difference the slight adjustment of the bi-metal
spring on the back could make. But I decided the most important thing really is that the TPS be calibrated properly or the ISCV wouldn't be able to work right anyway.
If you do take the bi-metal spring off the back be sure and check when you put it back because that valve only seals one way and not turned around the other way.

and I'll take the throttle body back up and get some store credit on it.


put your throttle body back on, make sure the surfaces are clean and that metal gasket from the dealer is so much nicer (and they only wanted $1.50 for it but it didn't come with a sticker that said USA )




Be sure and pull the fuses on the ECU, EFI, and HAZ to reset the computer. When I put the throttle back on and started it up it went to 1200 rpm while cold and slowly came down as the temp warmed up just like it should. And once up to temp it was a cuddly 900 rpm at most. and It now idles perfectly, always comes down to no more than 950 and stays right around 750-800 most of the time.

This post has been edited by VavAlephVav: Jun 28, 2014 - 7:51 PM

[Special_Edy]

Nice right up, maybe it can be stickied

[Langing]

When taking the resistance readings, which ohms scale were you using? I couldn't tell from your photo.

Thanks for posting useful information.

[VavAlephVav]

I think I had it on the K ohms scale, which is not the lowest but the next one up. you need it to be sensitive enough to read less than 1 ohm. I played with the range for a minute until I found the right scale.

[Langing]

I think I had it on the K ohms scale, which is not the lowest but the next one up. you need it to be sensitive enough to read less than 1 ohm. I played with the range for a minute until I found the right scale.

Hastily scanning your text, it seems the measurements you took ranged from something like 0.1 ohm to 7k ohm, and you took all those measures using the K ohms scale. Just checking to make sure so your procedure can be repeated by others in an easy, reliable manner.

BTW: Enjoyed the description of your visit to the pick-n-pull. Ever since my (recent) first ever visit to one of those places I've wanted to go back again.

[VavAlephVav]

my meter auto-ranges for the most part, but you can cycle through the ranges so that it adjusts the display slightly.

what's nice is you can also go to pick-n-pull website and see what cars they have http://www.picknpull.com/
this way you can watch for when they get a Celica instead of having to go down there and look around everyday. They have three near me.
They don't get many though I mostly pick 5sfe parts from old Camry's anything newer than '98 has the whole motor gone already, the only Celica they had the other day was a white 5th with a 2200 that had a nasty front end collision and was charred from fire.
I wrote in the dust on the windshield "That's Hawt!"

great for little ****, but I think for whole motors or a head I'm going to keep looking for a regular salvage yards that will guarantee they have tested that motor before they pulled it out of the car and recorded what it came out of and mileage.
and if they're selling the head they will pull it off a motor they know was working while I wait. ...now I just have to figure out what if there is a difference between the old 5sfe head and the later ones from the Camry 5sfe.

This post has been edited by VavAlephVav: Jun 29, 2014 - 2:33 PM