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> Flush Fit Wheel Fitment, Offsets for Flush Fitment which is Proper Fitment
post Oct 6, 2009 - 10:42 PM
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Harold_Fastwaker



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So you want to be Dope Status now? Maybe your life goal is to make it on HellaFlush, well this is the offset numbers you need for that to happen.

First: You will need to run stretched tires for this to work and preferably a nicely lowered car.......... Or 4x4 your car and run it Donk status. I don't care, but you will have to choose one of those options.


FOR THE FRONT WHEELS ONLY **Your fronts should have been rolled from the factory. 9.0+ will probably need a bit of a roll to crush the plastic liner in a bit.
Width ---------- Offset (et)
6.0" ---------- et-5mm
6.5" ---------- et 0mm
7.0" ---------- et+10mm
7.5" ---------- et+15mm
8.0" ---------- et+22mm
8.5" ---------- et+27mm
9.0" ---------- et+33mm (you will be cutting it close with the strut. May need to start running negative camber at this point)
9.5" ---------- et+40mm (you will be cutting it close with the strut. Probably need to start running negative camber at this point)
10.0" ---------- et+45mm (At this point, you will need negative camber, a good fender pull and probably better off with a +35ish offset and going with wide fenders.)
10.5" ---------- et+50mm (At this point, you will need negative camber, a good fender pull and probably better off with a +35ish offset and going with wide fenders.)



FOR THE REAR WHEELS ONLY **You need to roll your fenders for all of these.
Width ---------- Offset (et)
6.0" ---------- et-20mm
6.5" ---------- et-15mm
7.0" ---------- et-8mm
7.5" ---------- et-2mm
8.0" ---------- et+5mm
8.5" ---------- et+10mm
9.0" ---------- et+18mm
9.5" ---------- et+23mm
10.0" ---------- et+30mm (Will start to cut it close with the strut. Negative camber may be needed. My best guess is you will be alright)
10.5" ---------- et+36mm (At this point, you will probably hit strut. Negative camber is needed. Probably would want to run a lower offset and just pull the crap out of your rear fender to make it tuck.)


As for tires, I highly suggest you run 45 series tires and I HIGHLY recommend Falken 512s. They handle stretching very well.


These numbers will make your wheel flush with the body. If you want to wheel to poke then run a lower offset then I have listed. This in turn means you need to run a smaller diameter tire and some negative camber.




Spacers:
For those of you who need a 25mm spacer or larger for your look. I suggest A-Dapt-It USA (http://adaptitusa.com/) or Motorsport Technologies (http://www.motorsport-tech.com/)
The A-Dapt-It's will be cheaper and will be lug centric to the wheel. Motorsport Tech can make you hubcentric to hubcentric adapters which are double the cost of A-Dapt-It's. Either choice is fine, I run lug centric and so do plenty of other people. Toyota still ships cars off the assembly line with lug centric wheels. Don't let the scare tactics of hubcentric or die mess with your head. With lug centric you just need to tighten your lugnuts in the standard star pattern starting from the top.






This thread was made separate due to not wanting to have an e-thug battle.

This post has been edited by Harold_Fastwaker: Oct 6, 2009 - 11:30 PM


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post Mar 4, 2010 - 5:19 PM
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95CelicaST



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With fiberglass fenders you're going to need to worry about the wheels hitting and cracking them. I would highly suggest going back to OEM and then roll the fender lip flat.


Look for Eibach's camber kit. They'll do what you need.


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post Mar 4, 2010 - 10:56 PM
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nintyfourcelicam...

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thank you for the link and the advice!!! i will let you know how i make out with it all.... i really do appriciate it! thanks again
post Mar 12, 2010 - 6:03 AM
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Goonter

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k i'm planning on using spacers/adapters. but have a few questions before a go ahead and do it. safety-wise, which one is better. 15 mm spacers with extended studs, or a 25 mm Bolt-on Adapter? and how fast will each setting eat up my wheel bearing frown.gif?
post Mar 13, 2010 - 12:02 AM
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Harold_Fastwaker



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both eat up your bearings at the same rate. It will depend on your final offset to give you an overall amount. Not like we can tell you an exact time frame they will last anyway. All depends on your mileage to begin with.


I dunno which is better between bolt on or studs. I wouldnt trust 15mm with extended studs though, but I bet science can prove me wrong. I just think anything over 10 needs to be bolted on.


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post Mar 13, 2010 - 12:21 AM
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Goonter

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arg .. i see thanks for the response. guess ill try out 25mm bolt-ons on rear and 10 mm extended stud in the front. anywho. how much would it be for new wheel bearings each?.. just so i know how much i would be spending in case they DO give out
post Mar 13, 2010 - 5:14 PM
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Harold_Fastwaker



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QUOTE (Goonter @ Mar 13, 2010 - 12:21 AM) *
arg .. i see thanks for the response. guess ill try out 25mm bolt-ons on rear and 10 mm extended stud in the front. anywho. how much would it be for new wheel bearings each?.. just so i know how much i would be spending in case they DO give out



go to RockAuto.com and look them up. They give you a pretty solid price, they will be comparable if you go to Autozone or Advance Auto as well.


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post Mar 13, 2010 - 6:41 PM
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Goonter

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thanks smile.gif
post May 2, 2010 - 6:19 AM
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whatthe



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Throwing my 17x8 +35 with 225/45/17 this week back on. With a set of these 25mm 56mm bore hub centric spacers effectively making the rear +10. I probably wont be able to run these straight up as it will rub with the rear lining and need to get it rolled somewhere. But im looking forward to it biggrin.gif



This post has been edited by whatthe: May 2, 2010 - 6:19 AM


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post May 2, 2010 - 11:47 AM
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Driveby



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Snap! (almost)
Just fitted 30mm H&R rear spacers and 10mm fronts on the same size wheel and tyre combo on my GT4.
No rubbing issues with my suspension set up, but I have camber bolts on the rear to improve my stance woot.gif


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post May 2, 2010 - 12:04 PM
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whatthe



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Driveby how much negative camber are you running on the rear? You didnt have the roll guards? From what i remember with my 17x8 on it was cutting close the the lining without spacers.


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post May 2, 2010 - 12:19 PM
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Driveby



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I dont know the exact reading mate, I set it up with a spirit level (to get both sides equal) and how it looked. I have coilover rear suspension set for track use so is very firm, I am planning on rolling my rear arches as Im on a quest for moar low although I dont need to with my current set up. Maybe the 202 and 205 rear suspension setups are quite different, Im not sure. The tops of my rims are flush with the outer arch and I can get 1 finger between the top of the tyre and the arch. The bottom of the strut is only 3mm from the rear cv boot so I darent go any lower on this setup
Im at a 2litre turbo shoot-out tomorrow so will hopefully get some good pics and will post them up for approval.
Hope this helps mate.


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post May 3, 2010 - 1:07 PM
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Driveby



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By looking at the pictures Im running a bit of negative camber in the rear wink.gif Ill have to measure it at work.









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post May 4, 2010 - 5:54 AM
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vincent_doggy



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Guys do some math for me, I have 17x7.5 offset30 all around
No need to be hella flush, just more flush...
Please provide 2 data for the rear if possible:
Roll fender & No Roll
Thanks!


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post May 20, 2010 - 4:55 AM
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whatthe



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VC you will need 15mm on the front and 30 at the back. These are both for roll. I guess if you dont want to roll buy like 10 and 25?


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post May 28, 2010 - 5:06 AM
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whatthe



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Okay 6gc, i have a serious dilemma.

My 15mm bolt on spacers need some serious work on the wheels to get it to work. At the moment they are at the tyre shop waiting for monday to get the back to get shaved abit so the stud and nut that sticks out of the spacer wont get in the way.

Shaving the back in futher would cost like $145 which is basically what the spacers cost. And then i will need shorter studs for the hub.
I was thinking this will be all over if i ran 20mm spacers at the fronts. Cause the nut and stud wont be sticking out.

But that would make my fronts 17x8 +15. I dont know if that is too much poke.


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post May 28, 2010 - 1:05 PM
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Promasta

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marco has 18x8 +15 front and rear, and it looks amazing. but with that aggressive of an offset your 225/45 tires are too wide. with any poke you want a stretched tire, at least 215/45 or 215/40.
post May 28, 2010 - 1:39 PM
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whatthe



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^ Thanks for that. Marcos running 225 anyway and it looks decent. Either way going to purchase 20mm tomorrow, and hopefully solves all my problems and then pick up rims back from the wheel shop on monday. Alll that running around today in town all for nothing!



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post May 30, 2010 - 3:38 AM
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808celica



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i got bigger ones laugh.gif


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I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
post May 30, 2010 - 5:12 AM
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whatthe



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^Dude how big are they?


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post Jun 1, 2010 - 4:16 AM
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808celica



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1.5" converted into mm???


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I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island

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