Manual to Power Windows/Locks Conversion, REALLY CLOSE NOW! Need help, see pg 5 Options

[alltracman78]

Well, your best solution is to replace ALL the wiring.
This most likely includes the dash harness [if the 6th gens follow the 5th gens, which they seem to, the ST has a different dash harness].

The problem with using the other dash harness is you will probably run into different connectors for your HVAC controls as well as other things.

If this is your DD, it's going to be some down time, while you tear it apart, find out you need something else, wait for it, get it, then find out you need another thing, etc.

What year/model is the donor car?

This post has been edited by alltracman78: Jun 25, 2008 - 8:12 PM

[Ugglan]

Griffgirl:
How is the project going?
I think I'm going to open up my driver-side door next week so if you need any pictures i might bee able to help you...just tell me want you need...

[GriffGirl]

I've got it under control, but thank you for the offer!

The project has been slightly on hold for the last 10 days or so while I gathered the remaining parts I needed. I scored the dash harness from the original donor car, and yes, it's going to present some issues w/HVAC etc. so I'm going a much different route that involves hard-wiring the switches and motors with a Fun For All combination of relays, fuses and a DEI 530T window control module. I have all my parts now, and actually am going to leave work early today so I can see just how fun it is to work on a car outside in 90 degree heat.

Speaking of heat, I'm leaving tomorrow to drive down to Las Vegas, so my conversion WILL be done tonight. It turned out the hardest part was figuring out where/how everything bolted in. I've only got the driver's side bolted in right now (so I'd have at least 1 window that would open until I could get the remaining parts I needed) but I expect the passenger side to bolt in in no time at all. I'm guessing I've got about 2 hours of work ahead of me until I have power windows and door locks. Pretty exciting business!

Oh - and for anyone else who might stumble across this thread in the distant future who is considering doing this conversion: don't do it. It's a giant PITA and while the learning experience has made it well worth while to me, I don't know that the payoff is worth the amount of effort.

Pix/how-to will come some time in the next couple of weeks.

[Ugglan]

Great!
All luck with the last modifications. Be sure to let us know if you got it lal working!

[GriffGirl]

I've got the whole driver's side wired up. . . and nothing.

I'm hoping it's because I don't have the p/s wired up and it's an open loop or something like that...

[ETNRIDER]

I've got the whole driver's side wired up. . . and nothing.

I'm hoping it's because I don't have the p/s wired up and it's an open loop or something like that...

Aww that always stinks! You will get it though! It is usually something simple that just got over looked in the excitement!

[AnaXyd]

How is it going?

[GriffGirl]

I've been so busy I haven't had time to adequately comb over all the wiring with a multimeter to figure out what I've wired wrong. Parts are in, now it's just the wiring deal. Crossing my fingers to make it work this week. I'm MAKING time to get it figured out!

[AnaXyd]

But, isn't it possible to mount some aftermarket motors, getting some 12v to them, and wire the buttons? I haven't read your whole thread, so I might have missed something...

[GriffGirl]

I don't know why it'd be worth the time to get aftermarket motors... plus you can't just "add a motor" to a crank setup, you have to switch out the whole rail and everything. As for the wiring, it's not a simple as just getting 12v to the motor and buttons. There's the whole issue of - I don't know the right word to describe it - polarity? Basically there has to be some kind of actuator to tell the motor that button A pushed in one direction means "up" and pushed in the other means "down", and held down for a few seconds means "all the way down" and button B means up/down, and oh, switch panel A controls both sides while switch panel B still needs to operate. Button C means lock/unlock, and button D means Move This mirror in this direction, while it ALSO means Move That Mirror in that direction...

SO yeah, it's not exactly as simple as "run a 12v and you're good to go."

[AnaXyd]

Ah I see... But you think you will make this work? I am so exited with this..

The best thing is to get an original motor from Toyota which fits my car perfectly?


Have you changed to motors yet?

[GriffGirl]

Yes, get the original motors, you can get it from a junkyard pretty easily if you can find a Celica at one.

I've installed the power window and lock in the driver's side, but have not installed it in the passenger side yet. I want to get the driver's side working first before I switch over the passenger side; by doing it this way I still have one window that will open easily for now!

[AnaXyd]

Alright, so I better get a stock motor. Do you know if any aftermarket motors will fit? Like this one? Link I do not know of any junkyards nearby, so its easiest to buy a new one.


Was it hard to install the motor inside the door?

[DEATH]

Do you still remember the info I gave you before you went to Vegas [I don't exactly]? I'm pretty sure it's a matter of having everything wired up [Pass side too] before it will work. Remember we tried all that by disconnecting my stuff one peice at a time and seeing what would work and what wouldn't.
Also - get that multimeter we talked about. You're just playing Hellen Keller without it.
Man I wish you lived around here Griffy - we'd have knocked that out in no time - I got all the tools you need for that job x3.

[GriffGirl]

Dude, no joke! You have no idea how many times while struggling with this wiring I've wished we lived near each other.

I got the multimeter. I have NO idea how to use it. Now I'm just playing hellen keller with two battery operated pointy things. I do know now that power is getting to the wiring, because when I use the passenger switch, it sounds like the 530T module is trying to do something. When I use the D/S switch, nothing. I've retraced my wiring according to the instructions I was given, and have it wired correctly. I believe I have a good ground. (I'm sure the multimeter would tell me that. Somehow.)

I think the instructions I was given might have something switched around. I'm currently awaiting further guidance.

[GriffGirl]

Oh yeah - AnaXyd - If you already have power windows, I'm sure you could use an after market motor. If you don't have power windows though, you're going to need to replace the actual rail that the window is mounted to, and I don't think you can get aftermarket parts like that. I really think you're much better off using original Toyota parts for this.

If you want, I can likely source two motors/rails for you. I'm not so sure about switches, they're a little difficult to come by around here, but I see them on eBay all the time. PM me if you're interested in the motors/rails. They won't be cheap, I'm quite sure. But then again the Euro is WAY stronger than the dollar, so what's expensive to me is half-price for you! It'd probably cost you less for me to get them here and ship them to you than for you to buy them domestically, I'd imagine. LMK.

[DEATH]

What about finding someone nearby willing to let you test their working system so you can make comaprisons that way? It wouldn't hurt their car at all seeing as most modern multimeters are protected and it would make quick work of your problems I think. Me trying to do it via PM and both of us having good skills but limited abilities to communicate them isn't very productive. With all the PNW members there has got to be someone out there willing to help.

This post has been edited by DEATH: Aug 5, 2008 - 11:14 AM

[GriffGirl]

Tell me HOW to use the multimeter first and perhaps this might be a possibility

[DEATH]

post a pic of the one you got so I know what functions you have and can guide you easier.

[brk34]

I also know how to use a multimeter if you need help.