Manual to Power Windows/Locks Conversion, REALLY CLOSE NOW! Need help, see pg 5 |
Manual to Power Windows/Locks Conversion, REALLY CLOSE NOW! Need help, see pg 5 |
Aug 7, 2008 - 7:44 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 7, '07 From Portland, Oregon Currently Offline Reputation: 67 (96%) |
Thanks both of you... updates to come soon (hopefully)
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Aug 19, 2008 - 2:14 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jul 29, '08 From N. E. Ohio Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
... I'm pretty sure it's a matter of having everything wired up [Pass side too] before it will work. Remember we tried all that by disconnecting my stuff one peice at a time and seeing what would work and what wouldn't. I know that, because of the lockout controls etc. on the drivers side, in most cases, if there is a problem with ds controls/switch both windows will be affected. Are you saying that you found it to be true that if the passenger side window motor or switch is disconnected (entirely removed from the circuit) that the drivers side will also fail to operate? |
Aug 19, 2008 - 2:55 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 7, '07 From Portland, Oregon Currently Offline Reputation: 67 (96%) |
I believe that's untrue because there have been members on here before who have had problems with one switch while the other works fine.
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Aug 19, 2008 - 3:15 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Dec 19, '07 From tx Currently Offline Reputation: 22 (100%) |
... I'm pretty sure it's a matter of having everything wired up [Pass side too] before it will work. Remember we tried all that by disconnecting my stuff one peice at a time and seeing what would work and what wouldn't. I know that, because of the lockout controls etc. on the drivers side, in most cases, if there is a problem with ds controls/switch both windows will be affected. Are you saying that you found it to be true that if the passenger side window motor or switch is disconnected (entirely removed from the circuit) that the drivers side will also fail to operate? I believe that's untrue because there have been members on here before who have had problems with one switch while the other works fine. You are correct Griffy. What I was saying is that if you disconnect your PS switch the DS window will still work but the PS won't from either side. If you disconnect the DS switch neither side will work at all [Similar to the retarded child lock on the window which will not allow your DS window to work either - WTF is that all about? Like the kid can't reach over and turn the switch back on? LOL - that wouldn't stop my kids ]. I am available to you 24-7 on this issue girl - you know that. LMK when you get ready to start up that mess again. [Actually the GF is doing some more Gothic Modeling crap tonight so if you need me - call] This post has been edited by DEATH: Aug 19, 2008 - 3:16 PM -------------------- ENGINE: '93 RC 3S-GTE/WRC CT-20b [18-20PSI] PERF: TRD/HKS/ARP/NGK/MSD/ACT/Blitz/STRI/APEX'i/TwosRus/GReddy/Magnaflo/KOYO SUSP: Tein/Bilstein/SusTech/ INT: SS-III SEATS/Toyota Hyper Sports EXT: WRC/TRD/404 Its a safety feature so that people like you don't end up killing themselves or everyone around them. Slow down Paul Walker. 6GC Chat - Go there: [url="http://www.griffgirl.com/forum/chat/index.php[/url] |
Nov 28, 2008 - 3:18 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jul 15, '08 From Norway Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) |
How is this project going?
I heard about a guy here i Norway which got this conversion done by Toyota itself. |
Jun 1, 2009 - 5:49 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 7, '07 From Portland, Oregon Currently Offline Reputation: 67 (96%) |
I'm bumping my old thread back from the dead.
Here's the update: I've been driving around with the driver's side window basically not working for the past year. (the passenger window is still manual) I've used a DEI 530T (alarm/window/locks module) to power the motor and switches, but something isn't right because there's no power going to the switches. If I ground the orange "arm when grounded" wire, it will power the window down. The red wire powers it up. It's an all around ghey setup. So 2 weeks ago I decided to take another crack at it. I took everything apart that I'd wired up, and checked all my connections. I downloaded the wiring diagram for the DEI530T, and the electrical wiring diagrams for power windows on a Celica, as well as someone's how-to instructions off a Mazda forum IIRC. I've wired it all up correctly, but still, no dice. I went to see a guy who basically specializes in automotive electrical stuff, and he agrees that I've wired it up correctly, and saw that there's power going to the passenger switches (remember, p/s isn't hooked up though) but no power to the d/s switches. This is all from the d/s master switch. My next step is to try to figure out which wires that come from the door harness are those for the d/s window switches, and get power to those. But then that will leave me with the door locks and the side view mirrors to wire up. And thus, still fairly clueless. I have the donor car dash harness and the blue door control relay - which is where I think everything wires to anyway. Is there anyone out there who can help me figure out which wires from the door harness go to which pins on the door control relay? I can provide photos, wiring diagrams, etc. Basically I want to make a harness that goes from the door harness to the door control relay and splice the passenger door in so it's operational from that side as well. I've pretty much already figured out which color wires from the driver's side door harness control what, as in which wires control the locks, the mirrors, passenger window, driver's window, etc. I just need to know where they go into the blue relay. -------------------- |
Jun 10, 2009 - 1:05 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 7, '07 From Portland, Oregon Currently Offline Reputation: 67 (96%) |
bump
surely there has to be someone out there who can read these electrical wiring diagrams better than I can and interpret them into a language I can understand Hell, I'll even settle for pictograms if it'll work anyone? -------------------- |
Jun 11, 2009 - 4:25 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jul 15, '08 From Norway Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) |
U should check out the partnumber NONG0-00393.15
I was told it is a conversion kit to our cars, which contains all that we need to convert from manual to power. I did not get any information from my Toyota what the kit contained, so if some of you could get that information, I would appreciate that. Maybe thats the only thing we need to buy! |
Jun 15, 2009 - 12:55 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 7, '07 From Portland, Oregon Currently Offline Reputation: 67 (96%) |
Not gonna go with a kit - I have everything I need to power it except for the &*$#ing technical electrical know-how! Argh!
Anyone? I KNOW FOR A FACT that this can be done using the Toyota door control module. I just need to know how to wire it together. -------------------- |
Jun 15, 2009 - 1:11 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jul 15, '08 From Norway Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) |
Could you write a guide for this? It could be useful for me, and many others with the manual **** in our doors. Or a list with things that we need?
The electrical stuff should go nicely, since the cables are just plug and play? Or? Give a link to these diagrams, and I'll give it a shot. Maybe I'll understand them. |
Jun 15, 2009 - 3:21 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 7, '07 From Portland, Oregon Currently Offline Reputation: 67 (96%) |
The problem is that it's NOT plug and play, otherwise I'd have been done with this a year ago. The car is not originally wired for power windows, which means that the wiring harness that runs through the dash is not the same as those that came with power windows. There is a socket missing, basically. (see past posts in this thread)
Once I've gotten this all done I'll do a complete write-up. For now, here's the short of it, up to the point I'm at now, where I'm stuck: - take OEM Toyota Celica window rail, motor, door lock actuator, door wiring harness, interior door panel & switches from Celica with power windows and swap them all into Celica to be converted. - Figure out way to power all of this. It can be powered using DEI-530T if you aren't me and can figure out where you went wrong according to the wiring diagram for it, and a helpful guide that was written by a guy on ClubRSX can be used to guide you along the way. It's helpful to have an electrical wiring diagram for our cars, too. It seems that using the above information, I've done it correctly. But it still doesn't work. So, plan B. I have the Door Control Module from another 6th gen, and using the EWD linked to above, am trying to figure out how to pin the wires from the door harness to the module, since the module originally was connected by a plug off the dash harness. Since my dash harness does not have this plug, as it is different from the harness w/power windows, I'm basically trying to bridge the two. -------------------- |
Jun 17, 2009 - 11:28 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Apr 19, '08 From Norway Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
Hi! I've been thinking about this swap myself, and i thought i might just share my thoughts around the wiring.
I recon that in theory, the only thing the complete window-wiring needs from the car, is a constant +12v current when the doors are unlocked. Do you think you could find where in the harness needs to be connected too? so you could connect it directly to a +12v source for testing. I don't know, just an idea. If this dont work, maybe you could test the system step by step, starting with the motors connected directly to a +12v source, and working your way out towards the original power source cord. If you cant figure this out at all, maybe you could create your own simple control unit? using a 2-pole switch to switch the polarity, and a push-button switch to activate to motor. connecting it directly to the motors, and connecting via a proper fuse to the cars +12v source. For safety you could connect it to a source that only delivers current when the car switch is on. I hope this made a little sense:P just some thoughts. |
Jun 17, 2009 - 1:14 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 7, '07 From Portland, Oregon Currently Offline Reputation: 67 (96%) |
Yes, a simple control unit can be created very easily. Right now my temporary setup uses a simple rocker panel switch (2 pole, yes), wired through the DEI 530T which acts as a relay for it.
It works, but it's not what I want. I want to wire this through the OEM switch panel. oh yeah - and the relay is fused w/a 20 amp fuse and wired directly to the constant, so it works w/out the car needing to be on and w/out any safety concerns. Actually I prefer it that way! This post has been edited by GriffGirl: Jun 17, 2009 - 1:15 PM -------------------- |
Jun 18, 2009 - 2:20 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Apr 19, '08 From Norway Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
nice:)
But do you think you could separate the oem switch panel from the rest of the harness\circuit? and create your own harness using oem switch panel only? This post has been edited by skogs: Jun 18, 2009 - 2:22 AM |
Jun 18, 2009 - 5:43 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jul 15, '08 From Norway Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) |
nice:) But do you think you could separate the oem switch panel from the rest of the harness\circuit? and create your own harness using oem switch panel only? If you could, that would be the best solution. If the system works like stock, but is wired different, nobody will notice. Right? But maybe there are some wiring harness in the conversion kit..? Does it exist some part database which show what it include on the internet? Maybe you could get some part numbers from there. |
Jun 18, 2009 - 2:15 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 7, '07 From Portland, Oregon Currently Offline Reputation: 67 (96%) |
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Jun 19, 2009 - 5:11 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jul 15, '08 From Norway Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) |
What?
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Jun 19, 2009 - 1:19 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 7, '07 From Portland, Oregon Currently Offline Reputation: 67 (96%) |
there's no kit, not anything OEM or the likes thereof, otherwise I'd have finished this a year ago and wouldn't be insisting on wiring up my OEM door harness to an OEM door control module or the DEI 530T
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Jun 19, 2009 - 2:26 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jul 15, '08 From Norway Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) |
Actually, there is. Just check the partnumber i gave you some few posts above! I checked it with my local Toyota, and they said it looked like a conversion kit from manual to electricial windows. Like the guy which gave me the number said to me. Its an original Toyota part, so this is OEM all the way i think.
I have not checked what the kit contains yet, but I will go to Toyota very soon and check it up. This post has been edited by AnaXyd: Jun 19, 2009 - 2:27 PM |
Jun 19, 2009 - 5:27 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 7, '07 From Portland, Oregon Currently Offline Reputation: 67 (96%) |
I did check that part number and it appears to be something that's only available in Norway? Looks like it's some sort of dealer only thing, not a Toyota thing.
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