clutch how-to, i don't wanna pay labor Options

[chicklover345]

There is a clutch on ebay for 115 I have seen it on some other posts and I just wanted to make sure if there was any thing else i need to install it. i have an st205 '95 gt hatch 5sfe will it fit that engine as well?

This post has been edited by chicklover345: Sep 23, 2004 - 12:26 AM

[Supersprynt]

you have an ST204 not a 205 (GT-Four). You will need a centering tool and maybe a throwout bearing depending on how worn yours is. And since you didnt provide a link I cant tell you whether or nto it will fit but if its for a 7a it will not.

[Anub1s]

I will be writing up a how to when I do mine tomorrow (complete with pics) I'll try and post them tomorrow night. I would say buy a new throw out bearing anyways and save yourself the hassle. You might as well do it now that you are doing the clutch anyways. They are only like 60 bucks at your dealership.

[spunky393]

From Kwanza's keyboard its self....

"I can tell you exactly what you need to do... ;]... but mind you... it's gonna be hard cause that 5SFE tranny is a real pain in the arse...

Umm... first off, the stuff you'll need, minus basic tools and stuff. You'll need at least 2 jacks and jackstands. That's the dangerously bare minimum. One to hold the engine (cause you'll have to remove 2 motor mounts)... and the other to help hold the motor. It'll be easier if you have an engine hoist... but 2 jacks should be abrely enough.

That said... you'll need to remove all stuff from the tranny... shift-linakges, speedo gear, clutch safety switch (wires), clutch master cylinder (i believe it's bolted on the tranny), various grounds and stuff, hub (unbolt from struts and fold down the hubs, or get them clear of the axles... be wary of the brake lines and unbolt those also if they get in the way... don't need to disconnect, but there a little plate that holds it in place)... and I believe that's all.

Axles: Now before you get nailed with tranny fluid, drain the tranny. There should be a drain plug, on the bottom somewhere. If you don't, the fludi will come out all over you when you remove the axles. You gotta be careful with the axles, cause you don't want them to "pop" or fall apart. If that happens, basically the axle is screwed. Pull them from the ends (hard metal ends and not the boot). Try your best to not place a lot of pressure on the boots. The driver-side is a lot longer than the passenger, or visa versa. One is longer than the other... ;] It may take a bit of work, but they should come out of the tranny... and going back in, just try to get it in. That's probably the second hardest part...

Motor mounts... before you remove any, secure the jacks under the motor... somewhere that won't dent anything and use boards to prevent damage. As for the motor mounts, there is one under the tranny on the crossmember and one on the tranny (there may be another... assuming I'm remembering correctly). These two will need to be removed... The bottom one so the tranny and move freely and drop clearly through the bottom, and the other is pretty obvious. THe bottom crossmember is a pain in the ass... you'll see what I mean when you get there. Take your time and work with a friend... that way you can guide him/her... ;]

After the motor mounts are removed, secure a jack under the tranny... then you can start removing the tranny bolts. Lemme think... umm, there are 2 large ones (17mm) at the top, 2 (17mm) at the sides, 4 smaller ones (14mm) lower at the bottom, and 2 (14mm) holding in the starter. Remove the starter first and pull that out, if you can. I think it may be a bit squishy. NOTE: you may need to remoe the exhaust manifold downpipe... I forget if the tranny clears that or not. After the bolts are removed, move the tranny around and pry a bit and it should all loose. Carefully position it out of there... and have a friend give you a hand or two. ;]

Once the tranny is out, you can finally remove and install your new clutch. Be sure to clean off the flywheel a bit before you install the new clutch. Som higher-grit sandpaper should be fine (220+ grit). After that, do everything in reverse. Replace tranny, put starter back on, motor mounts, axles, wires, etc... and you're set. Cross your fingers and hope it works... ;] Be sure to use the clutch alignment tool also to align the clutch...

Well, that's the jist of it. It's all off the top of my head so I may be missing some small steps. Good luck man." (kwanza)

[Kwanza26]

[bufferdan]

its not fun... i'll just say that!

[spunky393]

haha, don't worry about it Kwanza, i tried to quote it for ya so i wouldn't get in trouble wiht the oh dreadful plagerism

[Kwanza26]

[rjbibeau]

i've done a clutch job on an accord it wasn't to bad you just have to be strong enough to heeve hoe the tranny back into it's slot when you wanna put it back in. otherwise it's pretty easy i thought.

[Fox-N-It2]

The clutch kit I remember getting was $120 came with Disc, throwout bearing and alignment tool. Remember to put some MP grease on the shaft the TO bearing sits on. While your at it you might as well blead the clutch and get it some fresh fluid. Hardest part is getting the trans to mate it back to the motor IMO.

[toyotatech3]

i just put them on a lift and use a transmission jack

[97GTinKC]

While you have it apart, I would also get a new pilot bearing for the end of the crank where the tip of the transmission shaft goes, they are only a few dollars and you definitely dont want to be doing the labor twice. (insist on a good quality Timken brand or OEM bearing, do NOT use anything from China,,,)

Like they say above, it is not all that difficult, just a matter of supporting things and dis-assembling/assembling everything in the correct order, along with getting the new clutch aligned (the clutch kits usually come with a plastic alignment shaft - use it! ) Its a little time consuming, I would allow all day if you have to do it in the driveway and dont have the hoist.
(I have supported engines b4 with a chain and 2x4 or pipe across the shock towers, kind of need to adapt it so it cant slip or shift on you)
You can also go the the nearest public library and print the procedure from their Mitchells repair manuals.