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post Sep 6, 2005 - 7:29 PM
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Rjb23



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Ok, so the guy who was doing my swap totally messed up the wiring I'm assuming. I had DG do the wiring for him, and the car did start and idle. But he took the engine out and when he put it back in now won't start. Basically now he is passing the car back to me incomplete and not running, because he can't figure it out.

The car turns over just won't fire up. Any ideas at what I should start checking first?

And let this be a lesson to everyone if you have the know how just do the swap yourself and save yourself the headache!
post Sep 6, 2005 - 10:38 PM
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Dr_Tweak



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Start with the obvious: fuel pressure and spark. You know how to test for them?


--------------------
-Dr Tweak, 6GC's resident engine swap wiring expert extraordinaire
Click here to see my swaps
drtweak@phoenixtuning.com

post Sep 7, 2005 - 12:21 AM
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Defgeph



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as noted above ..... and also check to see if everything is plugged in.

I hope you can get it going man.

DEF


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I will return one day.
post Sep 7, 2005 - 9:33 PM
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Rjb23



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Whats the best way to test for fuel pressure and spark?
post Sep 10, 2005 - 12:19 AM
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Dr_Tweak



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QUOTE(Rjb23 @ Sep 8, 2005 - 2:33 AM)
Whats the best way to test for fuel pressure and spark?
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Always test for spark first. Remove a spark plug wire, put the tip of a phillips screwdriver into it, and the put the metal shaft of the screwdriver on something grounded and metal, such as the metal valve cover, the engine hook, etc.

Hope in the car, crank the engine, and watch the connection at the screwdriver. If the system is working normally then you will see spark between the screwdriver and the metal surface.

Next, jump the +B and FP terminals in the diagnostic box. Turn the key to on. You should hear your fuel pump running. If not, there's a problem. Then shut the key off. Take a 17mm socket and crack open the connection at the top of the fuel filter, but be careful. Fuel will spray out (if you have pressure). If not, there's a problem.

Remember you need three things for combustion: spark, fuel, and air. There's plenty of that in the engine bay, which is why you always test for spark BEFORE spraying fuel all over the place, got it?

-Doc


--------------------
-Dr Tweak, 6GC's resident engine swap wiring expert extraordinaire
Click here to see my swaps
drtweak@phoenixtuning.com

post Sep 10, 2005 - 12:42 AM
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lagos



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QUOTE
Take a 17mm socket and crack open the connection at the top of the fuel filter, but be careful. Fuel will spray out (if you have pressure). If not, there's a problem



or you pinch the hose with your hand while you have the diagnostic box bridged and the key in the on positon


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15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
post Sep 10, 2005 - 2:58 AM
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Dr_Tweak



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Ah comon, what's the fun in THAT??? biggrin.gif


--------------------
-Dr Tweak, 6GC's resident engine swap wiring expert extraordinaire
Click here to see my swaps
drtweak@phoenixtuning.com

post Sep 10, 2005 - 10:41 AM
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Rjb23



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Thanks Dr. Tweak I get my car back today so I will test for those things tommorow.

I have a walbro fuel pump so shouldn't I hear it running with the key in the on position anyway?

If I have fuel and spark, what should I check for next?
post Sep 10, 2005 - 11:47 AM
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DG_Performance



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check all plugs connections/loose connections, grounding points, fuses, relays.....and little things b4 you think of bigger poblems that you could have.
it is usually the little things that get overlooked that cause you the biggest headaches.


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post Sep 10, 2005 - 1:12 PM
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Rjb23



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Thanks, Dg I'll probably be calling you tommorow. He may have messed up the wiring when he extended it, but I don't know how he could have.
post Sep 10, 2005 - 10:39 PM
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Dr_Tweak



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QUOTE(Rjb23 @ Sep 10, 2005 - 3:41 PM)

I have a walbro fuel pump so shouldn't I hear it running with the key in the on position anyway?



No.


--------------------
-Dr Tweak, 6GC's resident engine swap wiring expert extraordinaire
Click here to see my swaps
drtweak@phoenixtuning.com


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