Not getting fuel 3sgte, Getting fuel to filter, no error codes, no fuel on spark plugs, not st Options

[jcbass7]

The car is ready to run etc. but the problem i am having now is that the fuel pump is not running. I am pretty sure its not the fuel pump with the issue, and ive used a voltmeter to test the lines going to it and they are not bringing power.

Is a relay out possibly? i know the fuel pump needs certian things in the car to work for it to run..

I jumped the +B and Fp terminals and then put the car in the ON position and still no power to the pump


any ideas?

This post has been edited by jcbass7: Jul 22, 2006 - 7:23 PM

[presure2]

who did your harness?
check the fueses first, make sure all your plugs are propperly plugged in.
then start checking the wiring from the fuel pump relay, and the COR.

[jcbass7]

who did your harness?
check the fueses first, make sure all your plugs are propperly plugged in.
then start checking the wiring from the fuel pump relay, and the COR.

Doc Tweak did it,

i'll go see what i can do about checking that stuff


ps: where is the fuel pump relay located as well as the COR?

This post has been edited by jcbass7: Jul 10, 2006 - 9:10 AM

[lagos]

they should be next to your ecu. black one is COR, yellow is fuel pump.

if you jumped b+ and Fp then the problem is not with the relay. jumping those 2 bypasses the relays. if thats not working then there is either a mistake in the harness wiring or you forgot to plug everything in.

[jcbass7]

alright ill check the harness to make sure its all hooked in.. if the wiring is supsect what should i check first on it to see about the fuel problem?

also are usdm and jdm ecu's wired in different?

[lagos]

alright ill check the harness to make sure its all hooked in.. if the wiring is supsect what should i check first on it to see about the fuel problem?

also are usdm and jdm ecu's wired in different?

did you contact tweak?... since he did the work, im sure he would best know how to remedy the issue

[jcbass7]

yea i haven't been able to reach him for the last two weeks, won't reply my emails... he's a busy guy i guess, especially with fastbirds swap going down

[Dr_Tweak]

You didn't tell me you were having a fuel problem.... which ECU are you using? What year is it from and is it a JDM or USDM ECU? What year was the harness from and again, JDM or USDM. Are you sure the C/OPN relay is plugged in? It's a fairly large relay that is usually either bolted to the ECU or very close to it. You can find it by following the green/red "FC" wire from the ECU, which will be on either pin 14 of the 22-pin connector or pin 17 of the 26-pin connector.

Also, using a volt-meter, check and see if you're getting 12v from the "+B" terminal in the diagnostic block to a ground (with the key on).

-Doc

This post has been edited by Dr_Tweak: Jul 12, 2006 - 7:07 AM

[jcbass7]

You didn't tell me you were having a fuel problem.... which ECU are you using? What year is it from and is it a JDM or USDM ECU? What year was the harness from and again, JDM or USDM. Are you sure the C/OPN relay is plugged in? It's a fairly large relay that is usually either bolted to the ECU or very close to it. You can find it by following the green/red "FC" wire from the ECU, which will be on either pin 14 of the 22-pin connector or pin 17 of the 26-pin connector.

Also, using a volt-meter, check and see if you're getting 12v from the "+B" terminal in the diagnostic block to a ground (with the key on).

-Doc

THanks again Doc, you are a lifesaver


Its all from a 93 JDM all-trac

my batt is dead so when its charged ill check the +B for a current

[jcbass7]

ok i charged the batt and i am not getting any power whatsoever to the +B terminal in the diagnostics plug.

i'm not sure what to do next


thanks guys

[lagos]

your COR is probably not wired up right

[Dr_Tweak]

When you turn the key to the on position, does your check engine light come on steady?

Okay, if you're sure that the +B terminal has no power to it, then double-check your connections at the fuse box, the large plug can come loose if it's not plugged in right, there is a white clip that holds it in place. Also double-check your connections in the interior. Then if that doesn't change anything, check for positive power at the black/yellow wire on the bottom of the fusebox (the part that comes off) directly opposite the EFI main relay, with the key switched on of course.

Also check to see if you have positive power at the black/orange wire that goes to the coil and ignitor.

Let me know. Do you have my personal phone number?

-Doc

[jcbass7]

When you turn the key to the on position, does your check engine light come on steady?

Okay, if you're sure that the +B terminal has no power to it, then double-check your connections at the fuse box, the large plug can come loose if it's not plugged in right, there is a white clip that holds it in place. Also double-check your connections in the interior. Then if that doesn't change anything, check for positive power at the black/yellow wire on the bottom of the fusebox (the part that comes off) directly opposite the EFI main relay, with the key switched on of course.

Also check to see if you have positive power at the black/orange wire that goes to the coil and ignitor.

Let me know. Do you have my personal phone number?

-Doc

you know the EGR you we talked about? the one from the 5sfe, where do i hook that into the vac system?

[Dr_Tweak]

Don't worry about that right now, it probably won't be used. Let's just get the engine started first.

-Doc

[jcbass7]

ok

1. the check engine light is not on. and does not come on at all when keys are in

2. cheked fuse connections and interior connections they appear fine

3. there IS power at the bk-yellow wire ad the bottom of the fuse box (there were two a big and a small but getting 12 volt on both)

4. there IS power to the bk-orange wire at BOTH the coil and ignitor




the only things i know that aren't set yet, are the vac hoses to the EGR that came from the 5sfe, and the large ground behind the intake manifold



oh yes thank you soooo much Tweak, Manny, Lagos and everyone else for helping me so far through this swap, trust me i'm learning a lot and don't know where i would be without 6gc

This post has been edited by jcbass7: Jul 14, 2006 - 5:03 PM

[lagos]

the large ground behind the intake manifold

you might want to hook that one up

[jcbass7]

the large ground behind the intake manifold

you might want to hook that one up

does it bolt on anywhere special, i know i'm slightly clueless for not hooking it up yet.. i'm getting ahead of myself.

let me make sure its a ground, its a black wire but looks different than the other grounds on the car, almost thicker and more intense. does it go to the manifold or firewall?

[lagos]

there is a ground wire on the back of the motor. if i remember correctly it bolts to the intake manifold using a 12m bolt. you have to get under the car to do it. make sure its nice and secure.

[jcbass7]

shall do good thing the axles aren't in yet gives me more space to reach up there

[phattyduck]

shall do good thing the axles aren't in yet gives me more space to reach up there

It goes on the back bottom of the intake manifold on the runner second closest to the timing belt. This is THE ground for you ECU. My bet is that your car will start right up after this is put on there... While you are at it, make sure you have the ground from the top of the tranny to the battery and from the batter to the chassis hooked up, along with the ground near the alternator to near the power steering resevior. I also believe the ignitor needs to be grounded (either through its bracket or directly to the chassis w/ a wire).

-Charlie