How-To: Install new wheel bearings/hubs in the rear. |
How-To: Install new wheel bearings/hubs in the rear. |
Mar 30, 2007 - 11:21 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined May 15, '05 From Toronto Currently Offline Reputation: 4 (100%) |
So my wheel bearings have been making alot of noise latlely, so i decided to go change them. For tools, your gonna need a 10, 12, 14mm socket, socket wrench, extentions, 27MM wrench and socket, torque wrench, hammer, punch, some sort of press (hydrolic or mechanical), emery cloth, and while ur at it, if you need to do your brakes, brake pads and rotors. Any ways, heres how you do it. I applogize off the bat for the pictures, i only had my cell phone with me. I still have to do the other side, so i will bring the actuall camera when i do them.
First off, take off your wheel, rotor, caliper mounting bracket, and hang your caliper off your sping. Once the wheel is off, your gonna see your hub, there should be about 3 holes in the hub. Before you start to remove your hub, reach around the back of your knuckel and disconnect the ABS speed sensor with a 10MM socket. I think you only need to do this if you have ABS. Once this sensor is disconnected, using a 14mm socket with the extention, start un-doing the 4 bolts holding the hub inplace. Rotate the hub circles to line up with the 4 bolts. Once these are un-done, you pull the hub assembly out. heres an idea of what the new and old hubs look like. When the hub comes out, it will look like this *if you have ABS* Bolt line ups for the hub Now the fun part of breaking this thing down. Pretty much the hardest thing we had to do was take the ABS sender off. For this you can either pry it off *would advise against this because its pressed in pretty tight*, or turn it off. Grab your 27MM wrench, fit it under the gear and start to spin the nut. Eventually it will get pretty hard to turn, this is because your actually prying the gear off. Once you spin the gear off, it should look like this. Now time for the press. Using the press you have to press the bearing off the spindel hub. now time for re-assmbely, you have to now press the spindel back into the new bearing/hub. Once the spindel is back on completely, torque it down to 51FT/LB. When the hub is torqued down, use a punch and hammer to press down the top of the nut crown. you will see it was punched over b4, punch it over again on the same place. Once it is torqued down, press the gear back into the end of the spindel shaft. Easiest way to put it back in is tapping it in with a hammer at first, then puttin it in the press. Once its back together, re-attach the hub and torque the hub onto the knucel using 55FT/Lbs of torque. Now you can re-assemble your brakes. I found that with mine my e-brake shoes were worn out quite a bit. Then pretty much, just put your brakes back on or new brakes if you decided to go with some new ones, and attach your wheel back on. Any questions?? |
Mar 30, 2007 - 1:05 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined May 15, '05 From Toronto Currently Offline Reputation: 4 (100%) |
ok..added comment. After i got this all installed i drove my car about 1000meters to get to my rez parking lot..didnt really drive it to much. then i went to get some food at a burger place around .5Km away, on the way i started to notice some grinding sounds, couldnt figure out what it was. So i figured maybed somethin was up with my new brake pads, nope. What happened was when i drove it that first 1000M, the bolts holding the bearing in place came loose abit and ended up givin about 1/8th of movement in the spindel, aka 1/8th movement in the rotor meaning it was biting. So any one doing this, RE-TORQUE YOUR HUB AFTER MOVING THE CAR, also it probably wouldnt hurt to put some lock tight on the bolts.
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Mar 30, 2007 - 1:50 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jan 28, '05 From Redondo Beach, CA Currently Offline Reputation: 86 (100%) |
you forgot one small thing, buy a new o-ring gasket from toyota, it goes on the O part to hold the backplate and seal in the hub
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Mar 30, 2007 - 2:51 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined May 15, '05 From Toronto Currently Offline Reputation: 4 (100%) |
i re-used mine cuz it was still good..but yea..dont forget to buy a new o-ring...also..i found it wasnt the 4 bolts holding it in that came loose..it was the big 27mm one holding the spindel on. I figured out why it came loose. When we put it all back together, we tightened the 27mm first, then pushed the gear in...when we pushed the gear in, it backed the nut off a tiny bit. so when your puttin it together...PUNCH THE GEAR ON FIRST..lol. i just spent the last 45 min in the parking lot in 20C heat. But yea, learn from my mistakes.
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Mar 30, 2007 - 3:19 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jan 28, '05 From Redondo Beach, CA Currently Offline Reputation: 86 (100%) |
4 bolts are 14mm and require a deep impact socket with a 6" extension too.
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Mar 30, 2007 - 4:50 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined May 15, '05 From Toronto Currently Offline Reputation: 4 (100%) |
you dont need a deep impact socket, you can use a regular 3/8 drive socket 14mm. but you do need the extention
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Mar 30, 2007 - 5:25 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Nov 10, '06 From Cleveland Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
What did the hubs cost? Did you get them from Toyota?
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Mar 30, 2007 - 5:26 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Dec 22, '06 From Caracas-Venezuela Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) |
what kind of rust do you have on your car???
-------------------- Celica ST202
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Mar 30, 2007 - 7:12 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined May 15, '05 From Toronto Currently Offline Reputation: 4 (100%) |
QUOTE(jc47 @ Mar 30, 2007 - 5:25 PM) [snapback]541564[/snapback] What did the hubs cost? Did you get them from Toyota? I bought them for $106CND a peice after market ones from BCA Bearings. But that was also with apprenticeship pricing. QUOTE(Rockford @ Mar 30, 2007 - 5:26 PM) [snapback]541565[/snapback] what kind of rust do you have on your car??? Rear end?...alot..lol..my controll arms, strut rods, and pretty much rear subframe are all rusted beyond repair. I pretty much gotta replace the enitre rear end suspension. |
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