Fuse used for stock double din cd/cassette player? Options

[Starcraftjunkie]

Hi,

I'm wondering someone can help me with a fuse issue I've been having after putting in a stock toyota double din stereo.

In the fuse panel under the hood (and on the otherside of the ruse panel, there's a legend of some sort):

10A - Dome
15A - Clock or something
20A - Radio 1
??? - n/a

I'm just wondering if everyone has a fuse in that 4th slot. There's no amp markings on the fuse (and not due to wear and tear. It's just not there). Can anyone first clarify what does that 4th slot do?

Also, for those of you with a double din stock radio, do those fuse ratings match yours? I'm asking because my dome fuse just blows everytime I turn on the stereo. There's no extra wires grounding themselves out (just using the stock toyota harness).

So right now, it's either I drive with music, or I drive with door lights/dome light/low beams only.
When the 10A dome fuse blows, the car runs only the daytime running lights in the high, or both low/high on at the same time. I suppose it's a way of telling the driver something electrical is amiss.

Help please! I've already gone through 4 fuses checking for grounds and stuff.

[AudioFreak]

The dome fuse provides an input to the DRL relay that's why the DRL's act weird when the fuse is blown. That 10amp dome fuse is tied into a few systems.

The fuse ratings are right. The blank is an extra fuse position. If the fuse cover has nothing written on it for that spot it should be empty.

Is this a new or different radio than you've had? Or did the problems just start?

[Starcraftjunkie]

Ya, I know exactly which systems the 10amp fuse are tied to, as they don't work. lol...

It's not an 'extra' fuse. There's a fuse in that slot (and metal connectors at the bottom, unlike the spots where the 'spares' are kept. When I took that 'fuse' out, door/dome lights etc didn't run at all. If it is a extra slot, why would they have a fuse in there w/o a rating?

I had to charge the camera, or I could've posted pics. I should have some by tomorrow.

The problems started as soon as I put the 'stock' radio back in. I originally bought the car with a mp3 deck already in place. I recently decided I wanted to go back to the stock look, partially because I was sick of carrying a face plate around.

All the speakers work, so it doesn't seem to be an amp malfunctioning... I'm still using the stock 2 amp setup. Nothing has been altered.

The 10amp fuse blows as soon as I turn on the stereo. If the stereo is left off, the car runs as per usual. Lights and headlights all work.

I do have another stock stereo to try, to attempt to isolate what it isn't, but I'll have to wait till Tuesday to buy more fuses... shoulda bought that 25 pack instead of the 6 pack. sigh...

Will the fuse blow if something is wrong with the antenna in the back? The previous owner either disconnected the motor, or it just doesn't work. I suppose that's another thing to try, not plugging in the antenna wire. Is that last circular wire that goes into the stereo a power cable (not the harness, but a black wire)?

The dome fuse provides an input to the DRL relay that's why the DRL's act weird when the fuse is blown. That 10amp dome fuse is tied into a few systems.

The fuse ratings are right. The blank is an extra fuse position. If the fuse cover has nothing written on it for that spot it should be empty.

Is this a new or different radio than you've had? Or did the problems just start?

[AudioFreak]

Not sure about the fuse, if toyota put it there it will have a label. It's possible but unlikely it was done aftermarket.

The thick antenna wire will have no effect. The power antenna leads may. If there is a problem with the power antenna it will cause a problem. If you removed the left panel in the trunk you can disconnect the lead to the power antenna to isolate it.

The fact that the radio blows the fuse as soon as it's turned on but not when it's off makes me suspect the power antenna. Looking at the wiring diagram the dome fuse is part of the circuit.

[Starcraftjunkie]

o. so the 2 wires that enter the rear of the stereo are the power antenna signal and regular antenna wire?

Now.. I can try powering it up right now while leaving the power antenna cable out (how do I tell which one it is?)... but if the fuse blows, I'll be w/o lights until Tuesday. doh..

[AudioFreak]

o. so the 2 wires that enter the rear of the stereo are the power antenna signal and regular antenna wire?

Now.. I can try powering it up right now while leaving the power antenna cable out (how do I tell which one it is?)... but if the fuse blows, I'll be w/o lights until Tuesday. doh..

The big black wire by itself is the antenna signal. It will not cause the problem. In the stock wire harness look for 2 wires one is pink/blue and one is black/red those goes to the power antenna. The wires should be next to each other in the connector.

To isolate it disconnect at the power antenna.