throttle repsonse Options

[rjbibeau]

hey guys i'm helping my girl with a mr2 3sgte swap. we have everything back together and the engine fires over and idles and all of that. it has throttle response when parked but when you try to drive it it hits a brick wall at about 3k and another at 4k or so then doesn't go past that. we unplugged the tps and the first brick wall goes away but the 4k is still there. i was reading the bgb on adjusting the tps but i don't really see what is supposed to be done. something about a feeler gauge. any ideas of what else it could be. it throws a knock sensor code. could this be the brick wall problem?

This post has been edited by rjbibeau: Sep 17, 2007 - 3:03 PM

[WannabeGT4]

Is your igniter the correct one for the ECU? Are you sure your TPS is installed correctly? It's not hard to put it on wrong. The IDL contacts just need to be connected when the throttle is fully closed and disconnect with the slightest presure on the gas pedal. The feeler gauge is the sure fire way to get it right but it can be done with out it.

This post has been edited by WannabeGT4: Sep 17, 2007 - 4:42 PM

[lagos]

it throws a knock sensor code. could this be the brick wall problem?

yes, a knock sensor code will make your car run like total crap. address that issue first.

[_rz_]

The most detonation prone section is between 3 and 4K RPMs, so if you are having code 52 then the ECU retards the ignition all the way it can in that range so you feel a sudden loss of power and torque

[mr2nerkitty]

so does a code 52 mean the knock sensor is detecting knock therefore retarding the timing or the knock sensor is faulty?

[rjbibeau]

the only code throwing now is the 52. it was throwing an air intake temp sensor code #24 but the only one i know of is the afm...doesn't it have one in there. also the engine bay temp sensor was missing a sensor so i pulled one off of my 5s airbox and hooked it up to the mr2's engine bay sensor clip. it was also throwing a code 31 which is a AFM Open circuit or short in VC signal Test or replace Air flow Meter. 47...but who knows about that one... anyways i reset the ecu and now it is just throwing a code 52 after we drove it for about 2 minutes and let it idle for like 5.

as far as the igniter goes..I'm not sure on that one, it was already installed on the car. anyone know the part number of the correct one for the gen2 3sgte motor? and I'll go check the tps and set it to specs. thanks for the explanation wannabegt4

This post has been edited by rjbibeau: Sep 18, 2007 - 12:06 PM

[lagos]

it means there is a problem with the sensor. either its not plugged in, or it needs to be replaced.

if you get knock under normal driving conditions, the ecu would not throw any codes. you would need to wire in tvsv led's to monitor the ecu's knock response.

[lagos]

was throwing an air intake temp sensor code #24 but the only one i know of is the afm...doesn't it have one in there. also the engine bay temp sensor was missing a sensor so i pulled one off of my 5s airbox and hooked it up to the mr2's engine bay sensor clip. it was also throwing a code 31 which is a AFM Open circuit or short in VC signal Test or replace Air flow Meter. 47...but who knows about that one...

the air temp sensor is inside the afm. so code 24 and 31 are because of the afm. sometimes you can get those codes if you unplug the afm harness plug, and put the key in the ON position. i would drive around for a few days after resetting the ecu to see if those codes come back.

[rjbibeau]

thanks Lagos. the afm was unplugged one time when we turned it on...damn your good

[rjbibeau]

i just looked at the price of a 3sgte knock sensor... and oooooo expensive. would it be possible to use a 5sfe knock sensor and put the 5s clip onto the 3sgte harness?

[lagos]

i dont think so. dont try to cheap out on the knock sensor. get a brand new, oem one. its the one thing that prevents you from blowing the motor.

[rjbibeau]

anyone know how to test it?

This post has been edited by rjbibeau: Sep 18, 2007 - 3:31 PM

[lagos]

check to make sure its plugged in. thats the only test. if its plugged in, but the code is still there, then it needs to be replaced.

[rjbibeau]

i thought maybe an ohm test or something could be done. ...but I'll check to make sure it's plugged in.

[phattyduck]

i thought maybe an ohm test or something could be done. ...but I'll check to make sure it's plugged in.

The knock sensor should be about 2-4k ohm to ground if you put a multi-meter on it. If it is an open circuit, you have a blown knock sensor for sure.

-Charlie

[rjbibeau]

thanks bro...i'll give it a shot. what section of the bgb did you find that in?

[phattyduck]

thanks bro...i'll give it a shot. what section of the bgb did you find that in?

You won't find that in the BGB, as far as I know. The knock sensor is actually an electret microphone bolted on to the engine block with a certain frequency response, nothing more. GM and other knock sensors are the same way too, and they are all similar in that way. Post up what you find.

-Charlie