Manual to Power Windows/Locks Conversion, REALLY CLOSE NOW! Need help, see pg 5 Options

[GriffGirl]

I will be undertaking my manual to power windows and locks conversion soon! yay! So in preparation for it, if anyone has a wild hair and is willing to take some pictures of their power setup for me, I would very much appreciate it. Here's what I need:

- pix of behind the door panel so I can see where the rail, motor and lock actuator bolt on
- pix of how the wiring harness is run along that same inside part of the door, up to where the rubber thingie goes into the panel by the door hinge
- pix or description of where the harness comes out after run into the above mentioned panel
- if possible, pix of where the other end of the wiring harness connects to. (back of fuse box under kickpanel?) If pix are too difficult, a description of where this thing goes would be great!
- pix of the door lock relay. I know it's somewhere under the dash, down by the gas pedal. That's all I know. Same goes - if pix are too difficult, a description of what this plugs into.

I'm visually oriented, so please use "landmarks" in any descriptions, and colors, i.e. "next to the gas pedal, above the hump and near the white connector" or whatever.

Thanks so much! I'll follow up with a how-to w/photos when I do the conversion.

This post has been edited by GriffGirl: Feb 26, 2010 - 2:28 AM

[njccmd2002]

hope this one is good.

[BloodyStupidDave...]

Here's what I need:

- pix

Okay. I'll probably be taking my driver's door apart next weekend. You'll have to work out the mirror image though as it is a UK car.

how the wiring harness is run along that same inside part of the door, up to where the rubber thingie goes into the panel by the door hinge

It basically just runs along near the bottom. There are a couple of clips to keep it in place. I'll circle them with red pixels for you.

where the harness comes out after run into the above mentioned panel

The door loom is a single loom that provides wires for the courtesy light, window motors, remote locking, speakers and door mirror. For the driver's door there are 8 connectors in the door and two connectors behind the kick panel. For the passenger door there are 7 connectors in the door and two behind the passengers' kick panel. Given Toyota's liking for having many different looms for the same generation, I suspect you'll need to swap out the door looms.

The loom comes through a white rectangular plastic grommet/panel protector and plugs into the body loom very close by (about 6" away). As mentioned above, the loom is terminated in two white plugs.

the door lock relay

It is directly above your right knee when sitting in the driver's seat. Black or charcoal grey plastic box possibly with a bright orange connector. Says "Door Control" on it. On UK cars, directly above the driver's left knee . If you put your hand under the trim, you can probably feel it with ease.

hope this one is good.

Yea the purple and grey wires aren't standard. Mod for puddle lights?

[GriffGirl]

I can't see behind the plastic but it's a start!

What are puddle lights?

I have the loom and the relay. I just don't know where to plug the relay in. Or the connectors behind the kick panel. I'll look around down there and see if I can find something that looks like it's just waiting for that relay.

Any pix you can get this weekend would be greatly appreciated. I'll just reverse it in photoshop and voila! USDM!

[njccmd2002]

I can't see behind the plastic but it's a start!

What are puddle lights?

sorry those wires are additions i made to have another light in the pocket...

[D-Man]

Griff, I'll try to grab you some pics, I'll be doing a "test speaker fit" & installing some Dyno this weekend. I dont have the plastic, so i'll get you a few shots before it'd deadened. That way nobody has to remove their existing plastic, B/C it's a PITA to get back on (and stick).

[Stu37363]

did a walkthrough on changing the regulator, maybe that will help you

Changing power window regulator

[GriffGirl]

^ I read and bookmarked that thread. It's excellent information, thank you for bringing that to my attention! I forgot all about that door skin business, I remember previous cars I've had having it, but mine actually does not have it on either side. I guess that was part of the corner-cutting of the ST. It's alright, I remember it being a colossal PITA anyway.

So basically I'm left with this:
- Door lock actuator: where does it go?
- Door lock relay: I nosed around for it a bit last night, couldn't find where it plugs in. Pix anyone?
- where do the various connectors plug in for a power source?

Thanks again to everyone, I really appreciate your help!

[S2CELLY]

Hope these PICs help.

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[GriffGirl]

Those are totally helpful - at this point, I don't think there are really any pix that WON'T help! Thanks for posting that, much appreciated.

Still need to know where the relay goes, the actuator (the little electric part that makes your locks un/lock) and where the harness plugs in at the end for a power source.

[brk34]

Here are two more pics not that great but I hope you can use them.

[njccmd2002]

i wired my jdm mirrors today, see if this helps!!!

[BloodyStupidDave...]

The above pic from njccmd2002 shows the door wiring loom entering the picture from the top. Just out of shot is where the loom passes into the body of the car through first the rubber grommet and then through the back of the rectangular white plastic loom protector grommet. The two sockets shown are the termination of the door wiring loom. Then the body wiring loom plugs into those. The picture is for the driver's side but the setup is almost identical for passenger side.

Unfortunately, my car is still at the garage having its transmission worked on so no pictures from me this weekend. Hopefully I'll have some next weekend if you still need them.

[njccmd2002]

The above pic from njccmd2002 shows the door wiring loom entering the picture from the top. Just out of shot is where the loom passes into the body of the car through first the rubber grommet and then through the back of the rectangular white plastic loom protector grommet. The two sockets shown are the termination of the door wiring loom. Then the body wiring loom plugs into those. The picture is for the driver's side but the setup is almost identical for passenger side.

Unfortunately, my car is still at the garage having its transmission worked on so no pictures from me this weekend. Hopefully I'll have some next weekend if you still need them.

sorry, should have put explanations

[GriffGirl]

These pictures are great! They'll make a lot more sense to me too once I get all my stuff taken apart and can compare. One question - what's the thing that looks like a relay that says Denso on it? I'm assuming that IS a relay. Is it the door lock relay? I sure hope so, because if it's some type of relay for the power windows, then I'm missing it.

Edit: I forgot to say thank you! Thank you! Keep any pix coming; the more the better. I'm planning to rip everything apart next weekend and get into this! I CAN'T WAIT!!!! If I can leave a little early one day this week, I'm doin' it then (as long as it's not raining!)

This post has been edited by GriffGirl: Jun 16, 2008 - 12:04 PM

[njccmd2002]

really dont know what that relay is.... il try looking up the part no

[BloodyStupidDave...]

really dont know what that relay is.... il try looking up the part no

I assumed it was something to do with the folding mirrors you have got. I haven't seen anything like that on the various UK and JDM Celicas I have worked on although it does appear to be part of the door loom.

[GriffGirl]

He customized the relay for those mirrors though, so it can't be for the mirrors. Hmm. Wait - he has a convertible. I bet it has something to do with that. Maybe the motor relay for the top to go up and down.

[SoundSlut_dotcom]

autoloc has some good kits.

[GriffGirl]

Okay, I'm undertaking this project this weekend. I have the DS door panel off and I've discerned which motor goes to which side based on the positioning of the window rail.

Question - do I need to remove the inside of the door (the metal part) in order to remove/replace the existing window track and mount the new one w/its motor? If so, HOW? Which bolts need to unbolt in order to do this? I've figured out which 3 bolts hold in the existing track. Will I be able to unbolt those and pull the window off the track w/out removing the inside of the door? It appears that the thread about changing the power window regulator indicates that I don't need to do that. (but maybe I do, to remove the existing window crank?)

I'm a little lost here, hoping someone can help by morning.

One last thing - where the heck does the door lock actuator go inside the door? I can't quite make sense of which rod connects to which part of the lock, and where it all bolts up.

Thanks!!!!!

This post has been edited by GriffGirl: Jun 21, 2008 - 4:32 PM

[BloodyStupidDave...]

Question - do I need to remove the inside of the door (the metal part) in order to remove/replace the existing window track and mount the new one w/its motor? If so, HOW? Which bolts need to unbolt in order to do this? I've figured out which 3 bolts hold in the existing track. Will I be able to unbolt those and pull the window off the track w/out removing the inside of the door?

I wouldn't expect so. I would have thought you can feed the bits through one of the openings. Certainly it is much easier to feed the wiring loom through with the speaker removed.

One last thing - where the heck does the door lock actuator go inside the door? I can't quite make sense of which rod connects to which part of the lock, and where it all bolts up.

I'll take some pics tomorrow. In the mean time:



^^ The two connectors at the top are the tweeter and the mirror connectors. You can see that once the loom has passed into the door, it comes back out again the the corner of the door and splits into two branches. One branch goes to speakers, mirrors and door controls; the other branch runs under the speaker and back into the door:



It then goes to the window regulator, door acutator (behind the plastic film) , ...


... and courtesy light:


This one isn't a particularly good photo I'm afraid. You can just about make out the door loom entering the body of the car through the rectangular white plastic grommet / loom protector in the center of the picture (this is the passenger side):


Another similar shot. The rectangular plastic grommet is in the center top of the picture. The connections between the door loom and body loom can be seen in the bottom center of the picture (along with a connection between body loom and I forget what):


Similar setup for the driver's side. The door loom passing through the rectangular plastic grommet in the drivers' kick panel:


And the connections between door loom and body loom on the driver's side (also showing the connector between body and rear body loom). I've popped the plastic retainer out of the bodywork to get a better picture - you can see the hole in the bodywork that the retainer fits into just to the right of the retainer:


Finally, a picture of the door control. On UK RHD cars, it is above the driver's left knee, tucked just behind the lower dashboard trim. The bracket that holds it in place is the overexposed bracket just to the left of the box. The bottom of the steering column can be seen in the top left corner of the picture:


This post has been edited by BloodyStupidDavey: Jun 21, 2008 - 4:56 PM

[GriffGirl]

Okay, this all makes sense. I'm going to have another go at the window rail and door lock motor-thingie. I'll look for your pix in the morning; you're 8 hrs. ahead of me so you're day will almost be over when I'm just getting to this.

Thank you again for all your help.

[BloodyStupidDave...]

One last thing - where the heck does the door lock actuator go inside the door? I can't quite make sense of which rod connects to which part of the lock, and where it all bolts up.

The door lock actuator goes in the bottom corner of the door furthest away from where the loom enters the door (that is, the actuator is located just behind the connector for the courtesy light:




This one shows some of the bolts for the window regulator:

[GriffGirl]

Okay - I've made good progress. I've wired in the loom and have figured out where to plug in the "socket" that has the pink wires running from it (speaker, mirror, etc. I think). There's another socket - probably the actual one for the window motor. I can't see where this plugs in though; there was one wiring harness that had nothing attached to it already in the car, and the new harness plugged in just fine to that. But that one "t's" off - one end plugs into the wiring harness that runs to the door, the other end (the homeless end) must plug in somewhere under the dash to draw power. WHERE?

I hope this makes sense. The one I'm speaking of has IIRC a blue connector, or little blue clippy things on two of the wires, like they're there to mark something. It's written in Japanese though. I only speak "american." (LOL)

Still haven't found where the door relay actually plugs in, or rather what plugs into it, but your photos make perfect sense to me and I'm just going to keep looking.

Looks like I just might have power windows (at least) by the end of the night! Woohoo!

[GriffGirl]

still can't find where that last connector plugs in ... can't get the window in unless I can get that rail to slide down...

[BloodyStupidDave...]

There's another socket - probably the actual one for the window motor. I can't see where this plugs in though;

IIRC, the window motor has a short wire coming out of it. I Don't recall whether it has a plug on the window motor itself and then an extension lead or whether the wires just come out of the motor through a grommet. But either way I am 99% sure the other end of that short wire is the connector you see behind the film in the last photo above.

there was one wiring harness that had nothing attached to it already in the car, and the new harness plugged in just fine to that. But that one "t's" off - one end plugs into the wiring harness that runs to the door, the other end (the homeless end) must plug in somewhere under the dash to draw power. WHERE?

I'm not sure I understand the above. Some pictures would help. But I think you are saying that the body harness that you have the door loom plugged into is Y shaped or possibly 3 branches go into one trunk. You are looking for things to plug into the connectors on the other branches?

The bit of the door loom that ends in the body of the car should have two connectors. This should be the case for both the passenger and the driver door looms. I would expect your car's body loom to have matching connectors unused behind the kick panels so should be just a case of plugging the door looms into the body loom on each side. If this is the case, the body loom will already have all the wires connected (power and otherwise) and all you'll need to do is fit any missing relays and fuses.

The one I'm speaking of has IIRC a blue connector, or little blue clippy things on two of the wires, like they're there to mark something. It's written in Japanese though. I only speak "american." (LOL)

Do you have a picture of this?

Still haven't found where the door relay actually plugs in, or rather what plugs into it, but your photos make perfect sense to me and I'm just going to keep looking.

Try taking out your shifter cover, upper center console cover, radio and aircon. You sould clearly be able to see the wiring loom running down the inside edge of the center console from the very top of the dashboard to the shifter mechanism and handbrake. On my RHD car, it runs down the right-hand-side. I don't know whether that will be reversed for you on not (probably). If you follow that loom, you'll find several branches along its route. It starts off about 3/4" thick at the top and by the time it gets to the handbrake it is only 2 or three wires. At about where your radio goes, you should find a short branch ending in that big orange, grey or white plug. It may well be taped up, covered in sticky-back foam or otherwise tucked out of the way.

[GriffGirl]

there was one wiring harness that had nothing attached to it already in the car, and the new harness plugged in just fine to that. But that one "t's" off - one end plugs into the wiring harness that runs to the door, the other end (the homeless end) must plug in somewhere under the dash to draw power. WHERE?

I'm not sure I understand the above. Some pictures would help. But I think you are saying that the body harness that you have the door loom plugged into is Y shaped or possibly 3 branches go into one trunk. You are looking for things to plug into the connectors on the other branches?

The bit of the door loom that ends in the body of the car should have two connectors. This should be the case for both the passenger and the driver door looms. I would expect your car's body loom to have matching connectors unused behind the kick panels so should be just a case of plugging the door looms into the body loom on each side. If this is the case, the body loom will already have all the wires connected (power and otherwise) and all you'll need to do is fit any missing relays and fuses.

Yes - this one of the two of these is the connectors I'm speaking of that seems to have nowhere to be plugged in. One of the connectors has some pink and purple wires (among others) coming from it - this one is probably the connector that wires the speaker, tweeter, little red light (you call it a puddle light I believe) and the annoying "Door is Ajar" chime. This one has a place to plug in. The other connector contains mainly blue wires coming from it (among others) and is clearly the connector that powers the window and probably the mirrors as well. I've searched and searched and have not been able to find anywhere to plug it in. For that matter, I can't find any available sockets to speak of whatsoever. I'm starting to think my car just doesn't have it - which means a trip to a wrecking yard after work today to try to locate the left and right side looms to connect these to. Otherwise this whole thing is basically a miserable failure. And I refuse to accept that.

Still haven't found where the door relay actually plugs in, or rather what plugs into it, but your photos make perfect sense to me and I'm just going to keep looking.

Try taking out your shifter cover, upper center console cover, radio and aircon. You sould clearly be able to see the wiring loom running down the inside edge of the center console from the very top of the dashboard to the shifter mechanism and handbrake. On my RHD car, it runs down the right-hand-side. I don't know whether that will be reversed for you on not (probably). If you follow that loom, you'll find several branches along its route. It starts off about 3/4" thick at the top and by the time it gets to the handbrake it is only 2 or three wires. At about where your radio goes, you should find a short branch ending in that big orange, grey or white plug. It may well be taped up, covered in sticky-back foam or otherwise tucked out of the way.

I'll try doing this tonight - I got so caught up in trying to figure out the window motor connector deal that it was dark before I could get to the issue of the relay. I'm willing to bet that relay is behind my stereo somewhere. I've taken that thing apart enough times at this point that I remember there being "extra" plug-thingies back there, I bet one of them plugs into the relay. I'm not so concerned about this right now.

Question - currently the position of the window motor is in the "up" position. This has effectively rendered me completely unable to actually secure the window glass in. Scary business. Is there a way to "force" the motor to slide down (without damaging the motor) so I can actually connect the window safely?

[GriffGirl]

Look, pix!

This is the plug that I believe powers the window motor:




...and this is the connector that was already in the car. The above pictured will plug into the socket you see below to the right. The one I'm holding is the one that's then left with no place to plug in in to:



Here it is with the connector from the door harness plugged in to the connector that's inside the car. Note the one at the bottom; this is the one that should plug somewhere into the car. If you look right above it, you'll see in the background where the other part of the door harness plugged in (the speaker, mirror and door light). There are two things plugged in there, and a nice empty little square where it looks like there should be the thing that my homeless piece should plug in to.



So am I just missing part of the wiring harness entirely? That's what I'm starting to think. If someone could please tell me where exactly this pigtail plugs in, and if they could follow the wiring from that plugin to where it connects (behind the fuse box I'm guessing?), I will go to a wrecking yard and try to get the missing link.

[njccmd2002]

i have to take apart my dash either today or tomorrow, ill post some pics....

[BloodyStupidDave...]

This is the plug that I believe powers the window motor:

[snip pic]

Okay, so that is the end of the door loom? I can't tell from the photo.

...and this is the connector that was already in the car.

[snip pic]

I see. I think that is something completely different, actually. It is certainly different to the UK setup.
The way to tell is to look at each wire coming from the door loom and figure out where it goes to on that Y loom.

On the Uk cars, most of those wires go to the back of the fuseboard, some go to the other beige board.

How is the passenger side looking?

[GriffGirl]

The passenger side also appears to be lacking a place to plug in the 2nd loom. Yes, I agree that it's completely different than your setup - however I'm not sure if this is because it's USDM, or it's 94-95. My suspicion is that it's in part that it's 94-95, and in part that it's an ST and not a GT. It looks like there's some stuff that's the same, but some that totally isn't. What I don't get though is for example, why would there be fuses in the fuse panel for options I don't have? I.E. there's a fuse in the place for fogs, seat heater, and one other thing I can't remember. I thought USDM didn't even come w/heated seats. My car didn't come with fogs, and for that matter it was my understanding that NO USDM 94-95 had fogs as an option.

Oh and yeah, picture one shows one of the ends of the door loom. The other end is the loom containing the pink and purple wires immediately to the left of that socket. It's plugged in.

[GriffGirl]

Can anyone with a USDM please check to see where the receptacle for this homeless socket leads to? take a pic maybe? Up behind the fuse panel perhaps? I desperately need to get this figured out; I can't bolt in my window until I can get power to the motor.

[njccmd2002]

the pics were being uploaded.. the setup is different, that extra plug you have does not look like i have it.

soo, i dont think you need it. as you can see the two plugs from the door plug directly into the socketsl, i dont have a pital in Y formation. Oh the red plugs are for the alarm, how complicated that thing is....

initial view...



those red plugs are the alarm..



picture of the door plugs wthout the harness



another side view



even found the alarm..

IMG]http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh102/njccmd2002/folding%20mirrors/IMG_3587.jpg[/IMG]

and final another better view....




This post has been edited by njccmd2002: Jun 23, 2008 - 6:16 PM

[DEATH]

picture of the door plugs wthout the harness



another side view

OK better pics than the ones I gave you Griffy. Do you even have those female plugs?

[GriffGirl]

Bad times. I have 2 of the 3 plugs on that junction. I'm missing the top one.

I need to verify something - I know that white junction box just unclips from it's little home. It has wires that run to the back of the fuse plate. Do those wires unplug from the fuse plate?

Pix coming in a few minutes of what mine looks like, then you'll know exactly what I mean and why this SUCKS for me at the moment.

This post has been edited by GriffGirl: Jun 24, 2008 - 11:05 AM

[GriffGirl]

Okay, here's a pic of what mine looks like. As you can see, I'm missing the top female socket that the other pigtail from the door harness plugs in to. You can also clearly see that I'm doing this on work time, and the exact time I took this picture. The wires that I'm pointing to are the wires that trace up to the back of the fuse panel. (I believe there's another pigtail that splits from these too, but when unplugged, the entire harness leads to the back of the fuse panel). My question is, is it possible to unplug the wires from the back of the fuse panel?

[BloodyStupidDave...]

My question is, is it possible to unplug the wires from the back of the fuse panel?

Yes it is, however they are nearly all part of big looms. Most of the wires that go to the connectors that plug into the fuse panel are either part of the engine bay loom or part of the body loom.

[GriffGirl]

Yes, so I've discovered. Crap-o-rama. I've really got my work cut out for me.

It looks as though I'll be splicing into some other mystery part of the wiring to make this happen. There's a couple of people helping me with it. So for now it's on hold, but hopefully in the next day or so it'll be back rolling again. Man this is a PITA. And I was SO close... sigh...

[BloodyStupidDave...]

It looks as though I'll be splicing into some other mystery part of the wiring to make this happen.

If you have a donar car, a schematic, a safety pin and some time you can take the same approach I am with my aircon to climate conversion.

Follow each individual wire in the donar car, make a note of the connector and pin number at each end of the wire and then use the safety pin to remove the wire from the connector (or remove all the other wires if you need the connector also - but then make sure you note the position of every wire in the connector). If you have a camera it is even easier to make sure you have really good notes.

Then reverse the process on your own car.

[GriffGirl]

So, say I had the entire dash harness from said donor car. Would it be better to replace the entire dash harness in my car (yes I know, a PITA, but I want it done right, I'm already committed at this point) or splice in the bits of the harness that I'm lacking?

I'm up for the challenge of replacing the dash harness if this is the best way to go. I'm not necessarily looking for the easiest solution; I want the best solution. It's just another learning opportunity as far as how I see it. BUT - it's going to be 100 degrees here this weekend (WTF!!! That never happens here this time of year!) so I need to also consider the most pragmatic solution.

[alltracman78]

Well, your best solution is to replace ALL the wiring.
This most likely includes the dash harness [if the 6th gens follow the 5th gens, which they seem to, the ST has a different dash harness].

The problem with using the other dash harness is you will probably run into different connectors for your HVAC controls as well as other things.

If this is your DD, it's going to be some down time, while you tear it apart, find out you need something else, wait for it, get it, then find out you need another thing, etc.

What year/model is the donor car?

This post has been edited by alltracman78: Jun 25, 2008 - 8:12 PM

[Ugglan]

Griffgirl:
How is the project going?
I think I'm going to open up my driver-side door next week so if you need any pictures i might bee able to help you...just tell me want you need...

[GriffGirl]

I've got it under control, but thank you for the offer!

The project has been slightly on hold for the last 10 days or so while I gathered the remaining parts I needed. I scored the dash harness from the original donor car, and yes, it's going to present some issues w/HVAC etc. so I'm going a much different route that involves hard-wiring the switches and motors with a Fun For All combination of relays, fuses and a DEI 530T window control module. I have all my parts now, and actually am going to leave work early today so I can see just how fun it is to work on a car outside in 90 degree heat.

Speaking of heat, I'm leaving tomorrow to drive down to Las Vegas, so my conversion WILL be done tonight. It turned out the hardest part was figuring out where/how everything bolted in. I've only got the driver's side bolted in right now (so I'd have at least 1 window that would open until I could get the remaining parts I needed) but I expect the passenger side to bolt in in no time at all. I'm guessing I've got about 2 hours of work ahead of me until I have power windows and door locks. Pretty exciting business!

Oh - and for anyone else who might stumble across this thread in the distant future who is considering doing this conversion: don't do it. It's a giant PITA and while the learning experience has made it well worth while to me, I don't know that the payoff is worth the amount of effort.

Pix/how-to will come some time in the next couple of weeks.

[Ugglan]

Great!
All luck with the last modifications. Be sure to let us know if you got it lal working!

[GriffGirl]

I've got the whole driver's side wired up. . . and nothing.

I'm hoping it's because I don't have the p/s wired up and it's an open loop or something like that...

[ETNRIDER]

I've got the whole driver's side wired up. . . and nothing.

I'm hoping it's because I don't have the p/s wired up and it's an open loop or something like that...

Aww that always stinks! You will get it though! It is usually something simple that just got over looked in the excitement!

[AnaXyd]

How is it going?

[GriffGirl]

I've been so busy I haven't had time to adequately comb over all the wiring with a multimeter to figure out what I've wired wrong. Parts are in, now it's just the wiring deal. Crossing my fingers to make it work this week. I'm MAKING time to get it figured out!

[AnaXyd]

But, isn't it possible to mount some aftermarket motors, getting some 12v to them, and wire the buttons? I haven't read your whole thread, so I might have missed something...

[GriffGirl]

I don't know why it'd be worth the time to get aftermarket motors... plus you can't just "add a motor" to a crank setup, you have to switch out the whole rail and everything. As for the wiring, it's not a simple as just getting 12v to the motor and buttons. There's the whole issue of - I don't know the right word to describe it - polarity? Basically there has to be some kind of actuator to tell the motor that button A pushed in one direction means "up" and pushed in the other means "down", and held down for a few seconds means "all the way down" and button B means up/down, and oh, switch panel A controls both sides while switch panel B still needs to operate. Button C means lock/unlock, and button D means Move This mirror in this direction, while it ALSO means Move That Mirror in that direction...

SO yeah, it's not exactly as simple as "run a 12v and you're good to go."

[AnaXyd]

Ah I see... But you think you will make this work? I am so exited with this..

The best thing is to get an original motor from Toyota which fits my car perfectly?


Have you changed to motors yet?

[GriffGirl]

Yes, get the original motors, you can get it from a junkyard pretty easily if you can find a Celica at one.

I've installed the power window and lock in the driver's side, but have not installed it in the passenger side yet. I want to get the driver's side working first before I switch over the passenger side; by doing it this way I still have one window that will open easily for now!

[AnaXyd]

Alright, so I better get a stock motor. Do you know if any aftermarket motors will fit? Like this one? Link I do not know of any junkyards nearby, so its easiest to buy a new one.


Was it hard to install the motor inside the door?

[DEATH]

Do you still remember the info I gave you before you went to Vegas [I don't exactly]? I'm pretty sure it's a matter of having everything wired up [Pass side too] before it will work. Remember we tried all that by disconnecting my stuff one peice at a time and seeing what would work and what wouldn't.
Also - get that multimeter we talked about. You're just playing Hellen Keller without it.
Man I wish you lived around here Griffy - we'd have knocked that out in no time - I got all the tools you need for that job x3.

[GriffGirl]

Dude, no joke! You have no idea how many times while struggling with this wiring I've wished we lived near each other.

I got the multimeter. I have NO idea how to use it. Now I'm just playing hellen keller with two battery operated pointy things. I do know now that power is getting to the wiring, because when I use the passenger switch, it sounds like the 530T module is trying to do something. When I use the D/S switch, nothing. I've retraced my wiring according to the instructions I was given, and have it wired correctly. I believe I have a good ground. (I'm sure the multimeter would tell me that. Somehow.)

I think the instructions I was given might have something switched around. I'm currently awaiting further guidance.

[GriffGirl]

Oh yeah - AnaXyd - If you already have power windows, I'm sure you could use an after market motor. If you don't have power windows though, you're going to need to replace the actual rail that the window is mounted to, and I don't think you can get aftermarket parts like that. I really think you're much better off using original Toyota parts for this.

If you want, I can likely source two motors/rails for you. I'm not so sure about switches, they're a little difficult to come by around here, but I see them on eBay all the time. PM me if you're interested in the motors/rails. They won't be cheap, I'm quite sure. But then again the Euro is WAY stronger than the dollar, so what's expensive to me is half-price for you! It'd probably cost you less for me to get them here and ship them to you than for you to buy them domestically, I'd imagine. LMK.

[DEATH]

What about finding someone nearby willing to let you test their working system so you can make comaprisons that way? It wouldn't hurt their car at all seeing as most modern multimeters are protected and it would make quick work of your problems I think. Me trying to do it via PM and both of us having good skills but limited abilities to communicate them isn't very productive. With all the PNW members there has got to be someone out there willing to help.

This post has been edited by DEATH: Aug 5, 2008 - 11:14 AM

[GriffGirl]

Tell me HOW to use the multimeter first and perhaps this might be a possibility

[DEATH]

post a pic of the one you got so I know what functions you have and can guide you easier.

[brk34]

I also know how to use a multimeter if you need help.

[GriffGirl]

Thanks both of you... updates to come soon (hopefully)

[ActionClaw]

... I'm pretty sure it's a matter of having everything wired up [Pass side too] before it will work. Remember we tried all that by disconnecting my stuff one peice at a time and seeing what would work and what wouldn't.

I know that, because of the lockout controls etc. on the drivers side, in most cases, if there is a problem with ds controls/switch both windows will be affected. Are you saying that you found it to be true that if the passenger side window motor or switch is disconnected (entirely removed from the circuit) that the drivers side will also fail to operate?

[GriffGirl]

I believe that's untrue because there have been members on here before who have had problems with one switch while the other works fine.

[DEATH]

... I'm pretty sure it's a matter of having everything wired up [Pass side too] before it will work. Remember we tried all that by disconnecting my stuff one peice at a time and seeing what would work and what wouldn't.

I know that, because of the lockout controls etc. on the drivers side, in most cases, if there is a problem with ds controls/switch both windows will be affected. Are you saying that you found it to be true that if the passenger side window motor or switch is disconnected (entirely removed from the circuit) that the drivers side will also fail to operate?

I believe that's untrue because there have been members on here before who have had problems with one switch while the other works fine.

You are correct Griffy. What I was saying is that if you disconnect your PS switch the DS window will still work but the PS won't from either side. If you disconnect the DS switch neither side will work at all [Similar to the retarded child lock on the window which will not allow your DS window to work either - WTF is that all about? Like the kid can't reach over and turn the switch back on? LOL - that wouldn't stop my kids ].
I am available to you 24-7 on this issue girl - you know that. LMK when you get ready to start up that mess again. [Actually the GF is doing some more Gothic Modeling crap tonight so if you need me - call]

This post has been edited by DEATH: Aug 19, 2008 - 3:16 PM

[AnaXyd]

How is this project going?


I heard about a guy here i Norway which got this conversion done by Toyota itself.

[GriffGirl]

I'm bumping my old thread back from the dead.

Here's the update: I've been driving around with the driver's side window basically not working for the past year. (the passenger window is still manual)

I've used a DEI 530T (alarm/window/locks module) to power the motor and switches, but something isn't right because there's no power going to the switches. If I ground the orange "arm when grounded" wire, it will power the window down. The red wire powers it up. It's an all around ghey setup.

So 2 weeks ago I decided to take another crack at it. I took everything apart that I'd wired up, and checked all my connections. I downloaded the wiring diagram for the DEI530T, and the electrical wiring diagrams for power windows on a Celica, as well as someone's how-to instructions off a Mazda forum IIRC. I've wired it all up correctly, but still, no dice.

I went to see a guy who basically specializes in automotive electrical stuff, and he agrees that I've wired it up correctly, and saw that there's power going to the passenger switches (remember, p/s isn't hooked up though) but no power to the d/s switches. This is all from the d/s master switch.

My next step is to try to figure out which wires that come from the door harness are those for the d/s window switches, and get power to those. But then that will leave me with the door locks and the side view mirrors to wire up. And thus, still fairly clueless.

I have the donor car dash harness and the blue door control relay - which is where I think everything wires to anyway.

Is there anyone out there who can help me figure out which wires from the door harness go to which pins on the door control relay? I can provide photos, wiring diagrams, etc. Basically I want to make a harness that goes from the door harness to the door control relay and splice the passenger door in so it's operational from that side as well. I've pretty much already figured out which color wires from the driver's side door harness control what, as in which wires control the locks, the mirrors, passenger window, driver's window, etc. I just need to know where they go into the blue relay.

[GriffGirl]

bump

surely there has to be someone out there who can read these electrical wiring diagrams better than I can and interpret them into a language I can understand

Hell, I'll even settle for pictograms if it'll work

anyone?

[AnaXyd]

U should check out the partnumber NONG0-00393.15


I was told it is a conversion kit to our cars, which contains all that we need to convert from manual to power. I did not get any information from my Toyota what the kit contained, so if some of you could get that information, I would appreciate that. Maybe thats the only thing we need to buy!

[GriffGirl]

Not gonna go with a kit - I have everything I need to power it except for the &*$#ing technical electrical know-how! Argh!

Anyone? I KNOW FOR A FACT that this can be done using the Toyota door control module. I just need to know how to wire it together.

[AnaXyd]

Could you write a guide for this? It could be useful for me, and many others with the manual **** in our doors. Or a list with things that we need?


The electrical stuff should go nicely, since the cables are just plug and play? Or? Give a link to these diagrams, and I'll give it a shot. Maybe I'll understand them.

[GriffGirl]

The problem is that it's NOT plug and play, otherwise I'd have been done with this a year ago. The car is not originally wired for power windows, which means that the wiring harness that runs through the dash is not the same as those that came with power windows. There is a socket missing, basically. (see past posts in this thread)

Once I've gotten this all done I'll do a complete write-up. For now, here's the short of it, up to the point I'm at now, where I'm stuck:

- take OEM Toyota Celica window rail, motor, door lock actuator, door wiring harness, interior door panel & switches from Celica with power windows and swap them all into Celica to be converted.

- Figure out way to power all of this.

It can be powered using DEI-530T if you aren't me and can figure out where you went wrong according to the wiring diagram for it, and a helpful guide that was written by a guy on ClubRSX can be used to guide you along the way. It's helpful to have an electrical wiring diagram for our cars, too.

It seems that using the above information, I've done it correctly. But it still doesn't work.

So, plan B. I have the Door Control Module from another 6th gen, and using the EWD linked to above, am trying to figure out how to pin the wires from the door harness to the module, since the module originally was connected by a plug off the dash harness. Since my dash harness does not have this plug, as it is different from the harness w/power windows, I'm basically trying to bridge the two.

[skogs]

Hi! I've been thinking about this swap myself, and i thought i might just share my thoughts around the wiring.
I recon that in theory, the only thing the complete window-wiring needs from the car, is a constant +12v current
when the doors are unlocked.
Do you think you could find where in the harness needs to be connected too? so you could connect it
directly to a +12v source for testing. I don't know, just an idea.
If this dont work, maybe you could test the system step by step, starting with the motors connected directly to
a +12v source, and working your way out towards the original power source cord.

If you cant figure this out at all, maybe you could create your own simple control unit? using a 2-pole switch to switch
the polarity, and a push-button switch to activate to motor. connecting it directly to the motors, and connecting via a
proper fuse to the cars +12v source. For safety you could connect it to a source that only delivers current when the
car switch is on.

I hope this made a little sense:P just some thoughts.

[GriffGirl]

Yes, a simple control unit can be created very easily. Right now my temporary setup uses a simple rocker panel switch (2 pole, yes), wired through the DEI 530T which acts as a relay for it.

It works, but it's not what I want. I want to wire this through the OEM switch panel.

oh yeah - and the relay is fused w/a 20 amp fuse and wired directly to the constant, so it works w/out the car needing to be on and w/out any safety concerns. Actually I prefer it that way!

This post has been edited by GriffGirl: Jun 17, 2009 - 1:15 PM

[skogs]

nice:)
But do you think you could separate the oem switch panel from the rest of the harness\circuit? and create your own harness using oem switch panel only?

This post has been edited by skogs: Jun 18, 2009 - 2:22 AM

[AnaXyd]

nice:)
But do you think you could separate the oem switch panel from the rest of the harness\circuit? and create your own harness using oem switch panel only?

If you could, that would be the best solution. If the system works like stock, but is wired different, nobody will notice. Right? But maybe there are some wiring harness in the conversion kit..?

Does it exist some part database which show what it include on the internet? Maybe you could get some part numbers from there.

[GriffGirl]

[AnaXyd]

What?

[GriffGirl]

there's no kit, not anything OEM or the likes thereof, otherwise I'd have finished this a year ago and wouldn't be insisting on wiring up my OEM door harness to an OEM door control module or the DEI 530T

[AnaXyd]

Actually, there is. Just check the partnumber i gave you some few posts above! I checked it with my local Toyota, and they said it looked like a conversion kit from manual to electricial windows. Like the guy which gave me the number said to me. Its an original Toyota part, so this is OEM all the way i think.

I have not checked what the kit contains yet, but I will go to Toyota very soon and check it up.

This post has been edited by AnaXyd: Jun 19, 2009 - 2:27 PM

[GriffGirl]

I did check that part number and it appears to be something that's only available in Norway? Looks like it's some sort of dealer only thing, not a Toyota thing.

[delusionz]

I've never seen manual windows & locks on a Celica before, do you have pics of the original setup?

[AnaXyd]

I did check that part number and it appears to be something that's only available in Norway? Looks like it's some sort of dealer only thing, not a Toyota thing.

Hmm, sounds strange. I should check this up! And maybe I can get some sets shipped around! The guy told me that this kit should contain everything thats needed to swap. The price was around 700-800. Yeh, its new parts..

[GriffGirl]

700-800 is absolutely and unequivocally out of the question.

So back to my original question, is there someone who can help me dissect some wiring diagrams?

[AnaXyd]

I was just trying to help you out..

[GriffGirl]

I was just trying to help you out..

I know... I don't mean to direct my frustration at you! After a year of wanting to wrap this project up, it's hard not to feel bitchy about it sometimes

[DEATH]

Drive to Texas - problem solved in 3,2...

[AnaXyd]

Got the kit checked, and it sucks. A guy at Toyota got some information to me, and this kit is NOT original Toyota parts, but an aftermarked "addon" kit. So, lets forget that ****, and help GriffGirl out of this mess of a problem. I really want this power windows too, but it seems like it is really difficult to do.

[GriffGirl]

ARTistic bump.

[lagos]

The window up/down switch has 4 wires:
1. Green with white stripe = connects to pin 1 on the window motor
2. Red with white stripe = Connects to pin 2 on the window motor
3. White with green stripe = connects to a switched 12v source that comes from the power main relay
4. White with black stripe = connects to the "power window master sw" pin 3.

[GriffGirl]

The window up/down switch has 4 wires:
1. Green with white stripe = connects to pin 1 on the window motor
2. Red with white stripe = Connects to pin 2 on the window motor
3. White with green stripe = connects to a switched 12v source that comes from the power main relay
4. White with black stripe = connects to the "power window master sw" pin 3.

It was the Door Control module I was looking to get the pinouts for

[viruz_one]

Any updates? I want power windows and doors and just found a celica with the premium 8 speaker set-up. What about just swapping the whole door out??

[Joe_1985]

that seems id be easiest

[GriffGirl]

If you'd want to swap the whole door out, I guess you could, although you'd still have to run the door harness into the interior through the A pillar. I myself didn't find it difficult at all to just swap out the manual window crank and rail with the power window rail and door card. Whatever you think is easier though; it's a matter of personal preference.

So I found out that ALL THIS TIME my door switch has been bad, which is why I've been stuck on this for SO long. I could just kick myself for not even thinking of that. Anyway, I've got a new master switch on its way to me and am SERIOUSLY hoping to wrap this up REALLY SOON since the rain "season" is going to start soon. (is it a season if it lasts for like 8 months?)

Anyway once you swap the door out or however you're going to do it, you still need to figure out a way to power it all, since the stock dash harness will not have the required plug-in in JB1 for the part of the door harness that controls the locks and window. You'll also need to reroute your side mirror wiring if you have power side mirrors (they all do, don't they?) since the master switch on the d/s door has the switch to operate the side view mirrors as well.

Updates, photos, and everything I know will follow as soon as I have it. I PROMISE.

[Cavegod]

heres a wiring diagram, just click power windows on the left hand side

http://www.celicatech.com/imagearchive/bgb...ewd/circuit.htm

This post has been edited by Cavegod: Sep 14, 2009 - 1:56 PM

[GriffGirl]

Yeah I've got that, it's connecting what to what that I get stuck on, since the stock dash harness doesn't accommodate the power windows. You can use a DEI-530T though to wire in the door harnesses; this would've worked just fine for me when I started this last summer had I had the brains to look at what was right in front of me and test the switch!

Anyway I'm working towards wiring in the windows and locks to the Toyota factory relay (door control module) by making a custom harness to bridge the door harness to. So when I get that done, I'll have instructions for both methods, the DCM and the DEI-530T.

This post has been edited by GriffGirl: Sep 14, 2009 - 2:02 PM

[GriffGirl]

Bringing this back from the dead in hopes that someone who knows what they're looking at sees this and can help. Long story short, I've fabricated a harness from the donor car's dash harness to connect the door harnesses to the door control relay (DCM). It's pretty straight forward, but I'm not getting power to the motor and I'm not sure what I'm missing here.

Here's my connections, I'll base it on the pinout of the connector from the DCM as the "center" of the "tree":

1. RED/BLUE : RED/BLUE of diode
2. RED/YEL : to nothing. Diagram says "LEFT DOOR COURTESY SWITCH" ? Is this to unlock the door/s from the key?
3. BLU/RED : BLU/RED wires off p/s and d/s door harnesses (locks) - the thicker of the two blu/red
4. BLU/WH : BLU/WH d/s door harness
5. GRN/YEL : GRN/YEL d/s door harness
6. GRN : GRN p/s door harness
7. YEL : nothing. "UNLOCK WARNING SWITHCH" I have no idea what this is or where it goes. Or if I have this switch.
8. WHT/BLU : positive lead off the battery
9. GRY : GRY p/s door harness
10. BLU/BLK : BLU/BLK of p/s and d/s door harnesses
11. BLU : BLU of p/s and d/s door harnesses
12. BLU/ORG : BLU/ORG of p/s and d/s door harnesses
13. BLU/RED : BLU/RED d/s door harness (the thinner blu/red of the two)
14. RED/GRN : "DOOR COURTESY SWITCH RH" I have no idea what this connects to
15. BLU/YEL : BLU/YEL off the diode
16. WHT/BLK : ground

Leftover wires off the driver's side door harness:
GRN/WHT : GRN/WHT on p/s door harness
RED/BLU : RED/BLU on p/s door harness
WHT/GRN : WHT/GRN on p/s door harness, and then to Power Main Relay leg 3
WHT/BLK : Ground (but it's skinny - seems to skinny to be the only ground for the master switch?)

Result: DCM clicks when I use any of the switches, windows OR locks. But nothing else happens, no locks, no window up or down.

WHAT AM I MISSING!?!

[GriffGirl]

Oh I forgot to add if anyone who is REALLY good with electrical sees this and is reading it, I can provide EWGs if you need, just lemme know!

[bmj67]

i know the 7. YEL : "UNLOCK WARNING SWITHCH" is so if you leave the key in the ignition it knows and wont let the doors lock

[GriffGirl]

Maybe I just don't have that thing it's supposed to connect to then.... but for my purposes right now, I don't need it.

What's my missing link otherwise here? Anyone? Am I missing a ground or something? When you guys w/power windows roll your windows up or down, can you hear the relay box clicking? Seems like it shouldn't be clicking the way it does. If I hold the switch in the up or down position and keep it there, the box just clicks clicks clicks.

[bmj67]

the part you are missing is a blue box behind the dash most likely it controls the locking setup