How do you read the OBD diagnostic?, Update: Diagnostic Result Good Info!!!!!!! Options

[trdproven]

I'm having an overdrive light blinking again after 1.5 years later after it disappeared. I'm seeing it again but at least this time, the speedometer is not going bonkers and my tranny is not getting out of gear when I drive (basically neutral). It is an auto tranny. However, it does make my car lack power when this light comes on and blinks. It does not come on when first turning on the car and the power is great but when it comes on, it gets sluggish until you are at a good speed, it feels normal. Anyway, I was wondering if anyone knew how to correct it. I've checked my ATF level and it has enough fluid, but I read the manual last night and there is also a differential fill hole that needs oil. Perhaps my oil is too low, does anyone know where it is and what type of fluid to use for our cars? Not sure if it is also electrical. Thanks in advance!

Update: I jumped the T1 and E1 together and the light flashes so fast. There are no obvious pauses. Just keeps repeatedly blinking. The CEL that is. The net and stuff means your car is normal but my car is not acting normal as described above. However, the difference is...while I'm reading my CEL light (TRYING), here comes the overdrive light flashing together. I am having a really hard time interpreting the flashes, but like I said, it blinks constantly so fast with no obvious pauses. Any tips on how to read the code?

This post has been edited by trdproven: Sep 10, 2008 - 6:03 AM

[Spider77]

as far as fluid the bgb states that trans (2.6 qts refill 5.9 qts dry fill) and diff (1.7 qts) are one unit...so id guess ATF. Unless someone knows for sure. Was thinking about doing this as well.

This post has been edited by Spider77: Sep 7, 2008 - 5:53 PM

[trdproven]

Spider, i'm thinking it could also be solenoid. Based on my research, from 1st gear it is strong as it shifts it gets sluggish. The info on the net states that if the solenoid is bad it does not know how to shift so it shifts into third gear right after, which makes sense for the sluggishness because its not that it lacks power, is because it could be shifting into a high gear too early.

[Spider77]

Yeah, Im reading about that right now.
SELF-DIAGNOSTIC SYSTEM
SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
NOTE: Before testing transmission, ensure fluid level is correct
and throttle and shift cables are properly adjusted. Ensure
engine starts with shift lever in Park and Neutral to ensure
proper adjustment of neutral start switch. Transmission must
first be tested by checking for stored codes. See RETRIEVING
CODES.
ECT ECU monitors transmission operation and contains a selfdiagnostic
system which stores code if transmission electronic control
system failure or problem exists. If a problem exists in No. 1 or No.
2 solenoids or speed sensors and code is set, ECT ECU blinks OD OFF
light on instrument panel to warn driver.
OD OFF light on instrument panel will not blink to warn
driver if a problem exists or code is stored for lock-up solenoid, or
problem exists with brakelight switch signal or throttle position
sensor signal......there was this chart too with the solenoids listed for malfunction....
Normally s1 is 1st, s1+s2 is 2nd, s2 is 3rd

[trdproven]

how would the throttle cable be adjusted?

thanks spider

[reko]

how would the throttle cable be adjusted?

thanks spider

Check your TPS sensor behind your throttle body. My first celica used to do that too and i never found what it was in 2 years

This post has been edited by reko: Sep 8, 2008 - 10:37 AM

[trdproven]

Thanks Reko, but also how would I check the TPS sensor? I mean I did the e1 and t1 diagnostics but all it does is blink constantly and no obvious pauses between the flashes. However, I noticed when the check engine flashed so did the overdrive light kept blinking as well. Not sure if adding ATF will make the light go away. I did take a test drive yesterday, everything felt strong but after 10 mins of driving the overdrive off light came on and the car felt sluggish. The car shifts though. This issue happened about a year and a half ago but symptoms were worse, the speedo was bouncing around like it was possessed and the car would get out of gear. If I can get this fixed, I'm thinking of getting another car. Maybe an SC or something, somewhere along the Toyota familia.

[reko]

Thanks Reko, but also how would I check the TPS sensor? I mean I did the e1 and t1 diagnostics but all it does is blink constantly and no obvious pauses between the flashes. However, I noticed when the check engine flashed so did the overdrive light kept blinking as well. Not sure if adding ATF will make the light go away. I did take a test drive yesterday, everything felt strong but after 10 mins of driving the overdrive off light came on and the car felt sluggish. The car shifts though. This issue happened about a year and a half ago but symptoms were worse, the speedo was bouncing around like it was possessed and the car would get out of gear. If I can get this fixed, I'm thinking of getting another car. Maybe an SC or something, somewhere along the Toyota familia.

Throttle Position Sensor is the little coil behind your throttle body.

A good indication of a bad TPS is a sudden lose of power at a specific pedal position and engine RPM.

Using a DVOM(Digital Volt Ohm Meter), connect the negitive probe(black) to ground or battery negitive. The positive (red) probe to the signal(middle) wire.( wire 1 = 5 Volts = referance, wire 2 = .5 volts = signal , wire 3 = 0 volts = ground) Set the meter to DC volts and turn the key to the ON position.With the TPS connected,slowly open the throttle and watch the voltage on the meter climb from .5 volts to 4.5 Volts. any sudden drop or radicule change in readings indicates a bad sensor.

The problem with this method is that you can't see the voltage change over the time it takes to open the throttle. This is why a professional will use a labscope/oscilliscope. It has the ability to graph the changes over a period of time, which is the most accurate way to find a bad sensor.The technician will watch the arc on the graph, looking for the same results using the same setup.

There is no way to clean it, but it might be adjustable if the sensor has mounting slots.

Try to go to a scrap yard... its so small you can put it in your pocket with ease

Maybe its only your tranny that's due...

This post has been edited by reko: Sep 9, 2008 - 8:36 AM

[Spider77]

Thanks Reko, but also how would I check the TPS sensor? I mean I did the e1 and t1 diagnostics but all it does is blink constantly and no obvious pauses between the flashes. However, I noticed when the check engine flashed so did the overdrive light kept blinking as well.

ECT ECU monitors transmission operation and contains a selfdiagnostic
system which stores code if transmission electronic control
system failure or problem exists. If a problem exists in No. 1 or No.
2 solenoids or speed sensors and code is set, ECT ECU blinks OD OFF
light on instrument panel to warn driver.
OD OFF light on instrument panel will not blink to warn
driver if a problem exists or code is stored for lock-up solenoid, or
problem exists with brakelight switch signal or throttle position
sensor signal.

Saw that your OD light is flashing and I remember reading this.
I can email you the AT diagnosis from the BGB that has all the info in it if you want.

[trdproven]

Found the problem. As it appears, there is also a seperate diagnostic other than the check engine light OBD. Also specifically for the transmission, the OD light flashes codes as well. Mine blinked 6 pause 3. Manual does not state anything dealing with this. However, I read online on some toyota faqs that from a 1987 camry issue similar to mine, a user posted what he called OD lamp codes. 63 states no. 2 solenoid, which explains alot of things. All over the net, research pointed many times to solenoid issues particular #2. This makes sense because this tells the transmission to shift. with it malfunctioning, my car shift from gear 1 to 3 skipping 2 and makes my car appear that it is lacking power but in actuality, it is shifting to a higher gear too early. Those who know manual trans know that if you shift from gear 1 to 3 right away it simulates exactly the same symptoms. I've attached the codes below. Anyone know how to change the solenoid if it is easy or requires professional help?


*O/D Lampe codes:
42 - Vehicle Speed Sensor
62 - No. 1 Solenoid
63 - No. 2 Solenoid
64 - Lock-Up Solenoid
DTC (by using OBDII Scan Tools)
P0500 - Vehicle Speed Sensor
P0750 .- (2) No. 1 Solenoid
P0753 - No. 1 Solenoid Circuit Malfunction
P0755 - (2) No. 2 Solenoid
P0758 - No. 2 Solenoid Circuit Malfunction
P0770 .- (2) (3) Lock-Up Solenoid
P0773 -(3) Lock-Up Solenoid Circuit Malfunction
P1780 - Park/Neutral Position Switch Malfunction

This post has been edited by trdproven: Sep 10, 2008 - 6:09 AM

[Spider77]

NO. 1 & NO. 2 SHIFT SOLENOIDS R & I
Removal & Installation
Solenoids are located on valve body. Remove bolt, solenoid
and "O" ring from valve body. To install, reverse removal procedure
using NEW "O" ring.

CODE NO. 63 (NO. 2 SOLENOID) TEST
1) Access ECT ECU. See Figs. 4-6. Using ohmmeter, check
resistance between terminal S2 and body ground with connector removed
from ECT ECU. See Figs. 17-18.
2) Resistance should be 11-15 ohms. If resistance is okay,
replace ECT ECU. If resistance is not within specification, remove oil
pan. Disconnect electrical connector (Black wire) at No. 1 solenoid.
3) Check resistance between electrical terminal on No. 1
solenoid and body ground. Replace No. 1 solenoid if resistance is not
11-15 ohms. If resistance is 11-15 ohms, inspect and repair wiring
between No. 1 solenoid and ECT ECU. ( I know it says S1, but this is the same for S1 and S2)

[trdproven]

Thanks spider that is hella useful information you've provided so far. Have you experience this problem before? Also, where did you get these pics from, its pretty good. Is the solenoid in the tranny or is it external? It looks external by the pic. Thanks for your help, you've been most active in my topic, appreciate the efforts. Where can I get a clearer pic of the area in case something is shorting or leaking onto it?

This post has been edited by trdproven: Sep 10, 2008 - 4:50 PM

[Spider77]

I pretty much get all the info from the BGB. I have not had this problem before, but with 230 miles left till 200K on the orginal tranny, I am expecting problems down the road...so Ive been reading up on it a bit. I can check my other manuals to see if they are located int or ext, but Im pretty sure they are located ext (it says by the valve body), dont quote me though, never had to get to them yet.

[Spider77]

Yeah, checked my other manuals and really couldnt find anything, just the location of the nut. safety switch, which is located on the side of the tran...If I get a chance to (depending on weather) I'll crawl under there and see if I cant spot it.

[trdproven]

Thats what I was thinking of doing...did more reading as well. There are three possible problems.

1. short in the solenoid - wire/ground or something
2. metal particles blocking hole of solenoid - if internal
3. actual solenoid is bad

[reko]

Thats what I was thinking of doing...did more reading as well. There are three possible problems.

1. short in the solenoid - wire/ground or something
2. metal particles blocking hole of solenoid - if internal
3. actual solenoid is bad

That's exactly what i was told when i had this prob... but never changed it since i wasnt able to find the solenoid...

[trdproven]

Would anyone know if dropping the tranny pan would give me access to the solenoids? Also, I read on the net, its best to clean the connectors/transmission wire connectors because there may be oil on them. Is that true?

This post has been edited by trdproven: Sep 15, 2008 - 10:54 PM