CV Boot, Bugger it's Broken Options

[WWSideWinder]

Just today I see that my Left Front CV Boot is broken Bugger Bugger Bugger

Any one got any Advice on this.
1) Do it Myself?
2) Get A profesional to do it

My Car will not pass WOF with broken CV boot + bad for CV joint (car passes WOF 5 months ago so it was ok then)

Any Help or suggestions would be welcome.

[MercuryFree]

If you are technically capable of doing it yourself, it will only cost 20% as much, as almost the entire cost of replacing it is labour, the part costs jack all in comparison.

[pepsiman]

there is some info on here about how to do it, its not too hard and you would save a lot of money and know its done right. Plus great learning experience.

[soulshadow]

Don't want to flame but if your asking yourself, you might as well Take it in and have it done pro.

[grasby]

man screw taking it somewhere
effinately not worth the labor
if you have everything ready
you can get the old off and the new one on
in less than an hour

but thats also if you know what your doing
personally, i do all my own work
if i dont know how to do somehting, i find someone to teach me

thats what i would suggest
just do it yourself, and if you dont know how
it will definately benefit you to learn how

[Salica]

its an easy task just make sure you do your research before you go ahead with it.

[ksporry]

So....

Since the guy asked for advice on how to do it himself, can someone actually point him to the appropriate links that describe how to do it?

[TerryE]

Hi, there As to whether you can do it yourself, yes it can be done. (A lot will depend on how mechanically and tool-oriented you are.) I just did mine last week (1997 Celica GT Convertible).
If you don't have the BGB (toyota service manual) the essentials are as follows:

First the disclaimer: The process outlined below and specifically torque values are from my 1990 Toyota Celica Service manual 5SFE and may or may not differ in relation to your particular vehicle. "All processes, torque specs, et cetera, outlined below are on advisement only and are used at your own risk." Also Note that the below information can not cover any and all possible variations and or mishaps from arising from vehicle alterations, improper use of tools etc. Also not to be held liable for any omissions or mis-interpretation of processes below. Also will not be held responsible for any edits, changes or re-posting.
This is for a 5-speed MANUAL transmission!

That being said, here goes:


An Impact Wrench (air or electric will be immensely helpful four removing fasteners. Other-wise it's long pipe city. The nuts and bolt on the bottom of the struts are close to 100ft-lbs of torque. WEAR Gloves!


Some Handy Tools:

The Toyota Factory Service Manual for your vehicle.
Jackstands, jackstands jackstands. Don't even dream about doing this without them. There are serious torque values on some of the bolts and you do not want to get crushed.
2 x 4's to block rear wheels.
Gloves.
10mm socket 6 point.
14mm socket 6 point.
17mm socket 6 point.
30mm socket 6 point.
Torque wrench 15 - 150 lbs-ft click or beam type. I used both a 3/8 click and a 1/2 beam torque wrench.
use 6 point impact sockets if available as most of these bolts are on tight!!!
Piece of aluminum or steel about 12-14" long and 1/2" to 3/4" thick.
Black pipe 2-3 feet long, I.D. to fit rachet/breaker bar handle.
(2) bolts (hex-head or socket head) 8mm x 1.25 pitch by 30-50mm long.
Two-jaw gear puller.
Slide-hammer with internal puller jaws.
Propane torch.
Hammer 3-5 pound.
1/8" or 3/16 punch (for removing stuck cotter pins).
Diagonal Cutters (for removing cotter pins).
Large Needle-nose pliers (for installing cotter pins).
Pry-bar with pointed tip about 12-15" long and 3/8" thick.
Oil Drain Pan.
Mechanics creeper.



****If you don't have access to an Impact Wrench now is a good time to remove cotter pin from end of axle and just loosen axle nut.***** Pipe, strong ratchet/breaker bar and 30mm 6 point socket.

1. Set parking brake full on. (Loosen lugs nut if you don't have an impact wrench) Jack and block car up, with jackstands (about 14" off ground at jack points) you'll need this to get clearance to remove nuts and bolt from strut.

2. Remove wheel.

3. Remove caliper and tie it to spring (don't stretch or kink brake hose).

4. Remove caliper mount, set aside.

5. Remove rotor using jack bolts (note holes in rotor 8mm X 1.25pitch by 30-50 mm)
and PB Blaster and heat. (better than Liquid Wrench. available at Autozone, Murray's, Wal-Mart, etc.)
This step (5) may take a while if rotors have been on the car for a long time.
a. Tighten bolts till they touch, tighten equally say 1/2 turn, see if rotor moves, if not goto b.
b. Apply PB Blaster, wait a few minutes, try a. again, if no movey goto c.
c. Apply Heat with propane torch to the center of the rotor (not the axle and not the shiny braking surface, goto a.

Start cursing at oneself for starting project before big evening out. repeat a.b. and c as necessary until @#$%*! rotor comes off.


5. For Impact wrench equipped: remove cotter pin from axle shaft Remove axle nut 30mm socket.

6. Remove cotter pin from tie-rod end nut. Remove nut 14mm socket.

7. Press out tie-rod end with two-jaw gear-puller (rent-able, AutoZone, Murray's etc.) Use nut and old socket to protect threads.

8. Remove (2) nuts and one bolt from bottom of strut. Impact wrench or 2 - 3 ft long black pipe. 17mm socket.

9. Turn strut to left ( towards rear of car) and tap on end of axle to get it to loosen up.

10. Pull axle away from strut and let hang. Place Oil drain pan to catch oil that drips out.

11. With a piece of aluminum or steel (about 12" long) get under car with a 3-5lb hammer and place aluminum/steel bar on ridges on drive shaft. Hit until shaft pops out of trans-axle (it has a small spring clip on the inside end to retain it and will compress when you drive the shaft out with the hammer. A Screwdriver is not recommended as it will probably break).

12. For Seal replacement (Highly Recommended!): prop strut to rear with 2x4 between strut and lower control arm.

13. Seal Removal with a slide-hammer and internal jaws remove seal from trans-axle.

14 Seal Replacement: with slide hammer and piece of pipe, socket or whatever fits (I used a Greenlee metal-punch
die) tap new seal into place making sure it is going in square to the housing. It should sit flush or just a bit more in than flush.

Note: when installing drive-shaft do not let CV Joints separate! Also keep ends clean and wipe off ends with clean towel/rag
prior to installing.

15. Install drive shaft into trans-axle lining up splines with opening in trans-axle. Tap in last inch with hammer on end of shaft(protect threads) or ridges on shaft if available.

16. Install driveshaft into axle hub after wiping any dust dirt off inside of hub. Move strut as needed to get engagement of splines into hub.

17. Now the fun part: With a suitable prying instrument, place point off tool in inner-most hole on bottom of strut bracket to get studs to got into holes. Gloves will help guard against mashed finger and cuts from rotor splash guard here. T. his may take a couple of tries.

18. Re-assembly is reverse of removal, snicker! Use Torque Wrench. nuff said.

19. Replace and torque down two nuts and one bolt. 17mm socket --94 ft-lbs--.

20. Re-connect tie-rod end and nut torque down 14mm socket --36ft-lb--, and replace cotter pin w/new one.

21. Clean with Brake-Cleaner and replace rotor and hold down with one lug nut finger-tight.

22. Re-install caliper bracket 17mm socket --79ft-lb--.

23. Re-install caliper 10mm socket --34ft-lb--.

24. Re-install axle nut and with a helper pressing hard on brake pedal, tighten axle nut and re-install lock-nut cap and replace cotter pin w/new one. 30mm socket --137ft-lb--.

This step (25) is for MANUAL transmissions only!!!!!!
25. Remove or partly remove driver side plastic splash shield by wheel to get access to Filler plug on Transxaxle.
Remove filler bolt with 15/16" socket or whatever fits( socket should be a 6-point as the head on the filler plug is not very thick. This one is usually very tight. Refill with the appropriate gear oil (from owner's manual)

26. Re-install wheel.

27. Lower car.

28. Road test.

29. If necessary get front-end alignment checked.


Now The Very Bottom Line and additional notes and comments:

My experience with the above mentioned project took time on the order of about 4-5 hours, the most time consuming part was getting the rotor off the hub. Also since currently I am not independently wealthy at the present time (My company closed (BIG THREE auto parts supplier, Michigan) I was unable to use a Genuine Toyota DriveShaft (they can run from roughly $350-$450 dollars each) I had to settle for EMPI US (empius.com) drive shafts (A European-based company that been well noted as a VW and racing parts supplier since the 1960's) ("They meet or exceed O.E.M specs.") Get Them from an Auto Parts Distributor or Dealer.

They cost a 1/4 of the price that toyota wants --$125 for the driver side w/core and $150 for the passenger side. For now they are working fine. I say they, because I did the passenger side about 4 months ago- same cause- boot split at inner fold.
I've also found that it appears to be true that if one side goes bad you should replace both.

If you have the mechanical ability and the time this could save quite a bit of money (with shop labor going for about $75.00 per hour)

Yes, It would have been nice to have pictures but I was also replacing the seal on the passenger side which I should done when I did that side, so I had both axles out, the weather was not cooperating, I messed up one of the seals when I put it in and had to get another, yada,yada, yada.

P.S. the "essentials" got out of hand and I ended making it as detailed as possible.

[azian_advanced]

i would replace steps 6 & 7 with removing the lower ball joint from the lower control arm instead. imo it's easier and faster taking that out than the tie rod end.
add some pics to that post, copy & paste it to a new thread and you've got yourself a well written how-to

[WWSideWinder]

TerryE

WOW! WOW! WOW!

U Rock.

Thank You for the how to.

As azian_advanced stated a few pics and you have a well written how-to.

Vote for Stikky?

from me a big YES.....

(cant find the "owend" and bow down but consider them in there x10)

[TerryE]

Thank you all for the kind reponses. About the pix I would have but it had been up on stands for a while and I just wanted to get it back together and on the road. Maybe when I can afford the toyoda driveshafts I can get some clean pix of the process. P.S. the process is nearly word-for-word from the BGB. Again, Thank you and Good Luck!

[BonzaiCelica]

there is already a how to/diy on the suspension handling part of the forums

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=67291

i would say just remove the axle and have them repair it at a shop. should be no more than $60. but not quite sure on that. Then just reinstall everything back in yourself. you'll save half the money this way...