Web Cams 294 regrind, Need help with this. Options

[bdawgbp1]

I just got 2 used cams from a 5S and am going to send them to Web Cams to get the 294 regrind done. I am running a basic modified 5S-FE in my 94 GT (CAI with K&N, 4-1 race header, Nology Hotwires, Pulstar plugs, and am fixing to have full header-back exhaust done next week - 2.5" or maybe even 3" for future boost). I was wandering what do I need to do with my stock head for the 294 regrind? I have been reading in the forums and have seen stuff about the valve shims, clearance, etc. I originally had intentions to buy a new/rebuilt head but didn't know if there would still be some additional work that would need to be done to it for the 294 setup. Any help would be greatly appreciated as this is my first "tuner" that I have done - pretty much done this sort of thing with '70 to '80 something model V8s before but the Toyota is another whole different ballgame. Thanks!

[presure2]

its basicly a timing belt job + more work.

you have to reshim all the valves for the new cams.

i like to measure the shims before you install the cams, install them, check clearances, then figure out what size shims you need to make up the diffrence.

[bdawgbp1]

Hey cool thanks. I also just bought an HKS adjustable timing gear for the 2JZGE (I read in one of the forums that you can use this gear to adjust cams for optimum performance - I think it said somewhere between 3 - 5* retard). Can Web Cams machine this to fit the 5S cam or will I need to take it to a shop to have that done? So I'm good to use the stock valves, lifters, seals,springs, seats, etc - the motor has 203,000 miles on it and you can hear that "Toyota" valve clicking going on now. I didn't know if I should tear apart the head and rebuild or just buy a rebuilt head altogether. Also do I just use factory timing belt - any recommendations? Should I change the oil pump or anything else while i'm in there? I'm guessing that the stock timing belt pulley/gear on the crank will be fine. Thanks for the info.

This post has been edited by bdawgbp1: Mar 2, 2009 - 11:02 AM

[presure2]

Hey cool thanks. I also just bought an HKS adjustable timing gear for the 2JZGE (I read in one of the forums that you can use this gear to adjust cams for optimum performance - I think it said somewhere between 3 - 5* retard). Can Web Cams machine this to fit the 5S cam or will I need to take it to a shop to have that done? So I'm good to use the stock valves, lifters, seals,springs, seats, etc - the motor has 203,000 miles on it and you can hear that "Toyota" valve clicking going on now. I didn't know if I should tear apart the head and rebuild or just buy a rebuilt head altogether. Also do I just use factory timing belt - any recommendations? Should I change the oil pump or anything else while i'm in there? I'm guessing that the stock timing belt pulley/gear on the crank will be fine. Thanks for the info.

i dont think webcams will do that machine work for you, but any decent shop should be able to modify the 2jz gear, although with the slave cam design of the 5s, there isnt as much to be gained as with a true DOHC design.

yes, you use the OEM timing belt (yes, get a new one, theyre under 40$ new.) and do the waterpump, tensioner, and idler pullies while its all apart)

[bdawgbp1]

OK - so only the pullies for the waterpump, tensioner, and idler - or replace the actual items. What about underdrive pullies - do they make them for the 5S - is it even worth it? Also theres no way to convert the 5S from a slave cam unit to true DOHC is there? I haven't ever heard of such a thing but just curious. Also what about the head situation - will the stock components still be good considering the age and that you already hear substantila valve clicking - should I rebuild head or get a rebuilt head? I appreciate the help.

This post has been edited by bdawgbp1: Mar 2, 2009 - 11:32 AM

[presure2]

OK - so only the pullies for the waterpump, tensioner, and idler - or replace the actual items. What about underdrive pullies - do they make them for the 5S - is it even worth it? Also theres no way to convert the 5S from a slave cam unit to true DOHC is there? I haven't ever heard of such a thing but just curious. Also what about the head situation - will the stock components still be good considering the age and that you already hear substantila valve clicking - should I rebuild head or get a rebuilt head? I appreciate the help.

no on the underdrive pullies.
theyre bad for the engine
the noise you hear is prolly just valve clearances, which need to be done anyway when you do the cams.

no you cant convert the 5s head to true DOHC.

[bdawgbp1]

So I'm better off just sticking with my stock head and valve components - no need for a rebuild or purchase of a rebuilt head?

[presure2]

So I'm better off just sticking with my stock head and valve components - no need for a rebuild or purchase of a rebuilt head?

no, unless there is somthing wrong with yours, i wouldnt.

[bdawgbp1]

Cool - thanks - that's what I wanted to hear as rebuilt heads for the 5S are not cheap. I guess I should let a mechanic determine if there are any bad valve train components once I take the 294 cams in for install?

[Smaay]

i suggest doing the 1ZZ FE shimmless bucket conversion. alot of supra guys report spitting out shimms with 272 cams. plus the 1ZZ buckets are 30% lighter

[bdawgbp1]

Is that compatible with the 5S? Isn't the 1ZZFE a VVTi head as the 5S is not? Or does it not make a difference with the 5S head? Don't want to invest $ in something that will not work for my application. Thanks for the reply.

[presure2]

i suggest doing the 1ZZ FE shimmless bucket conversion. alot of supra guys report spitting out shimms with 272 cams. plus the 1ZZ buckets are 30% lighter

will the 1ZZ buckets fit in our heads?

these cams are very mild, no need to worry about spitting shims with them.

[koreanjoey]

Yes.

[bdawgbp1]

How do you do this and where can find the parts?

[ILoveMySilly97]

its basicly a timing belt job + more work.

you have to reshim all the valves for the new cams.

i like to measure the shims before you install the cams, install them, check clearances, then figure out what size shims you need to make up the diffrence.

i suggest doing the 1ZZ FE shimmless bucket conversion. alot of supra guys report spitting out shimms with 272 cams. plus the 1ZZ buckets are 30% lighter

i suggest doing the 1ZZ FE shimmless bucket conversion. alot of supra guys report spitting out shimms with 272 cams. plus the 1ZZ buckets are 30% lighter

will the 1ZZ buckets fit in our heads?

these cams are very mild, no need to worry about spitting shims with them.

So....I'm planning on doing a 294 grind on my 5sfe. I'm confused if there's anything I need to do with the buckets/shims or will it be fine just leaving it stock as is? Also the valve springs. Do I have to upgrade the valve springs or the stocks are fine? Please. Don't answer if you haven't done it yourself.

I'm planning on replacing the valve stem seals though.

[Tigawoods]

put in cams. measure clearances, take out cams, replace shims where needed as to get acceptable clearances, put in cams.

thats it

[ILoveMySilly97]

put in cams. measure clearances, take out cams, replace shims where needed as to get acceptable clearances, put in cams.

thats it

Cool. Sounds simple enough. I will be getting my OEM repair manual sometime this week so that'll help me with the measurements. I just need to make sure they're within the stock specs right?

[Tigawoods]

yups. Id also recommend (although it will be a pain in the ass) to recheck the clearances after a few hundred miles to make sure they are still in spec

[ILoveMySilly97]

yups. Id also recommend (although it will be a pain in the ass) to recheck the clearances after a few hundred miles to make sure they are still in spec

Aight cool. Any special/uncommon garage tools I'll be needing? All I know so far is the 30mm socket for the valve cover nuts and a torque wrench and the feeler gauges.

[Tigawoods]

thats about it.

Also look into getting a wideband A/F gauge and a piggyback controller (SAFC2 is best)