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> st205 engine removeal, can i remove my engine without removin gearbox or transfer box
post Apr 18, 2009 - 1:41 PM
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drgreenthumbgt4

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can anyone help do u know if u can remove a st205 engine without removin gearbox or transfer box ? thanks the dr !!
post Apr 18, 2009 - 6:23 PM
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Cuts_the_Pilot



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no.

here is a little write up i did for a friend ages ago, this is the way i do it.

yep drop from underneath basically start from the top, off top of my head:

unplug the ecu and drag the loom through the fire wall and sit on the engine. there is a couple of firewall mounted sensors that need to be unplugged from the loom
obviously there is simple **** like unbolting the intercooler pipeing, inlet hose / coolant pipes for your wta bretherin tongue.gif.
gearbox linkages, just pull those large "U" clips up, pull the circlip out (shift bush end), easy.
unbolt the clutch master cylinder from the motor and leave connected to car, no bleeding of clutch.
fuel feed and return
unbolt the air con compressor off the block and hang below the car, meaning no regassing of aircon yo.
radiator hoses, taking the radiator out all togther makes life easier, gives that little more room vacuum lines
power sterring is a cock, take the large bottom hose off and be ready to catch fluid, no other way around it.

undo the driveshaft nuts while there the cars weight is on the wheels

this is about all for the top at the moment, take the car up and:

take the wheels off the front

drain gearbox fluid
unbolt prop shaft from the centre bearing then slide out of the gearbox, expect a little bit of fluid to drain out. mark the position of the prop shaft so it goes back in the same place.
unbolt the crazy superslut suspension from bottom of the wheel hubs, take the steering arms off too, easier to move around then.
pull out driveshafts, these have circlips on the inner side (inside the box) so to get them out they need a jolt, someone pulling on the shaft with someone with a large screwdriver gently levering off the gearbox, expect a little more fluid.

unbolt gearbox oil cooler lines, you guessed it, expect a little more fluid.

there will be a single nut under the drivers side engine mount, so undo this now.

unbolt all the subframe bolts (subframe to chassis) and crack (not undo) the front and rear engine mount centre bolts (not essential but makes life easier later)

unbolt the brake calipers off the hubs and cable tie to the chassis out of the way.

lower the car, get a pallet trolley if possible, with a couple of pallets on it, lower the car so the pallet is taking most of the weight of the engine+subframe

undo the strut bolts both sides.

take the bolts off the drivers side engine mount (ones on the engine side)
undo and remove the passenger side centre mount bolt.

that should be about it i think, raise the car off the engine and you should have a much lighter four.

you can use a floor jack under the tunnel to move the car around pretty easy as long as the ground is reasonably flat and smooth.

to install do the reverse of the above biggrin.gif.

the subframe bolts (especially the trailing control arms can be a prick to reinstall, especially with the sleves), word of warning

dont forget to lable everything, pics help, dont be scared to be pedantic biggrin.gif





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ST205 Group A Rallye GT-Four, #61 of 77............600hp GT3582r
GRX133 Toyota Mark X 350s
post Apr 19, 2009 - 2:04 PM
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drgreenthumbgt4

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well not what i was hopin hear but cheers undone most ot the top stuff was just hopin there might of been a trick to gettin it out the top lol, but bottom it is ,bushes gone anyway in bottom arm so gettin them replaced, any tips on engine buiiding to would be great as its goin forged but doin this myself with a mechanic mate but any tips on high hp would be sweet cheers again mate
post Apr 19, 2009 - 9:48 PM
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Cuts_the_Pilot



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forged pistons. Get the stock rods and crank shot peened and balanced, unless your going for 50 million hp then there is no need to go aftermarket rods.
Get race series bearings.
Get everything acid dipped for uber cleanlieness.
Get everything port matched, dont worry too much about actualy porting because there is just no need.
Get the combustion chamber deburred as little burrs cause hot spots and therefore detonation.
If you can afford it go 1mm overside valves and get uprated springs and cams, if not just re seat the valves.
Get shimless buckets for a bit less valve train weight. 1zz ones are the ones to use if i remember correctly.
Deff get new oil and water pumps and tentioners/bearings.

Ive prob missed some stuff but its all general rebuild stuff anyway.





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ST205 Group A Rallye GT-Four, #61 of 77............600hp GT3582r
GRX133 Toyota Mark X 350s
post Jul 31, 2009 - 3:44 PM
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krammetje

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It is possible to take out the engine from the top.
We did it on my ST205 a couple of weeks ago.

You can take a look on my mates celica site where he made a write up on how he did it on his car.

Paul's celicagt site

The site is in dutch but the pictures speak for them selves





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'94 ST205 wrc
post Jul 31, 2009 - 4:23 PM
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Smaay

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i take it out through the top in my ST185 and the ST205 im sure has much more room


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2001 Celica GT-S Turbo
1997 Supra TT 6speed
1997 Celica 3MZ/1MZ swap
1990 Celica All-Trac
post Jul 31, 2009 - 4:43 PM
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Cuts_the_Pilot



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Ive done out the top on 185's out the bottom on 185 and out the bottom on 205's, if you have a hoist go out the bottom IMO.


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ST205 Group A Rallye GT-Four, #61 of 77............600hp GT3582r
GRX133 Toyota Mark X 350s

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