Dead/dying clutch...?, Shift, hit the gas, watch the RPM's go up while the MPH CRAWLS... Options

[supaneko]

I've had this issue taking place for a little while now. When it began, I simply parked my little car in the driveway with hopes that the funding to get an easy repair would come along. But then my other Celica (a 1991) just died out on me and now I have to get one of them fixed... definitely has to be the stick.

I've noticed for a little while that when I would shift, any gear, after shifting I wasn't able to really hit the gas too hard. If I did, the RPM's would shoot up past 4k and very slowly the MPH would move. If I hit the gas pedal just right, the car would slowly accelerate and the RPM's would seem to travel in-sync with the MPH. Well, now it seems like that "just right" is just about gone and every time I shift or hit the gas pedal the engine screams because the car just isn't moving like it should.

I am not smelling any sort of burning or hearing any sort of grinding. The clutch pedal itself doesn't seem to be any different from the day when I first bought the car either.

What's going on? What needs to get fixed? Where do I take it?

[Smaay]

definatly sounds like clutch. i just put a Southbend in mine with a fidanza flywheel. im very very happy with its performance. you can call Andy at www.southbendclutch.com and he will hook you up. tell him i sent you.

[jordisonjr]

Most likely a clutch. Same thing is happening with my car except not as bad as what is happening to you, Mines just at teh beginning stages, and my mechanic told me my clutch is going. that's probably what is happening with yours too.

[quick_5hifter]

Hello!
I've changed my clutch set yesterday, so the symptoms you wrote down just made me flinch a little
Better hope it's not the flywheel.... because it's price is about 500$ (that's the price for my type of engine).
If you're lucky and the problem is coming from the clutch parts (pressure plate or clutch disk), I recommend you to change the entire set and not only the worn-out piece.
Price for the entire kit should be 200$ at most, it also contains the pressure bearing (manufacturer: Aisin, whitch produces a few parts that came with our Celicas - for example break calipers and clutch).
You will probably encounter some difficulties about aligning the clutch set, since many manufacturers don't provide alignment tools like they were supposed to... so you should ask someone who installed a racing clutch kit to lend you his alignment tool. We tried to use a "custom" wood lathed alignment tool, but it didn't help us very much.
Good luck! And don't drive that car anymore, you might damage the flywheel and other stuff.

[GriffGirl]

Sounds clutchy to me, too.

A high performance clutch is just not necessary, sorry. Plus, in the interest of... budgetary needs... for the same amount that a cheap-o clutch would cost you @ like Autozone or something, you can get an Exedy OEM style clutch kit ($120 neighborhood) and not have to worry about having to redo the clutch for a long time (unless you SUCK at driving )

My car had a craptastic cheapo Made in China clutch when I bought it 2 years ago. It was a new clutch 2 years ago. Very new. It lasted about a year and a half. It amazes me that people opt for no-name cheap clutches when for the same money basically you can get quality.

Don't forget to have your flywheel turned. This is ESSENTIAL. It's like $50 and will save you a lot of money in the long run, not to mention time.

Your best bet is to find a friend who can help you replace the clutch. Labor is a KILLER - a clutch job can run you anywhere from $600-$800 bucks. Booooo.

[supaneko]

Yeah, with it being an ST I surely don't need any sort of special or performance clutch kit. Of course, when I finally obtain the funding to throw the turbo in... that's when I'll have to start askin' y'all about the performance clutch.

So, how hard would it be for someone who's a newb to tuning/fixin' cars to put in/swap out a bad clutch? What would I look for to purchase for the replacement (a kit, just the plate, just a disc, ???)? If I took it to a shop, would it be best to take it to a place that specializes in transmissions as opposed to a place that covers all parts of the car?

And finally... With $500-$800 in labor, what is the average price that I am looking at with parts and labor? $1000+??!?!?!?!

[quick_5hifter]

@supaneko: first of all, your last reply tells me you just skipped mine ... or you've read it very fast. My advice was to buy & replace the entire kit, for a few reasons:
1.if you only buy the disc, it will probably cost you ~150$, if you only buy the pressure plate you will pay ~150$. But if you buy the entire kit, you will pay ~200$ and also get a pressure bearing. Now that's a stupid thing, but it's true, you can check it out anywhere.
2.once you change your clutch disc only, you will keep using a worn out pressure plate which will soon damage your new disc or will damage itself sooner than your disk.... either way, you will have to work and pay again, sooner than supposed to.
3.since you remove your gearbox anyway, why not have an entire new clutch? It will definately last for at least 30.000 km, no matter how bad you drive...
Anyway, if you really want to save 50 bucks now and pay 150 bucks later (plus work), I'm pretty sure that the most damaged part in your clutch kit is the clutch disc. So your car will run safely for ~5.000-10.000 km if you only replace the disc.

Second: if you're a newb, don't even think about replacing it alone or even with a friend. It doesn't just involve hard and careful work, you also need to know a few things that you probably won't learn on the internet. For example, the alignment... you don't know how to do it if you've never seen anyone actually doing it. Another example is that your gearbox won't fit back on if you don't remove the right side axle first (do you know how to remove an axle from the gearbox?). These are just two of some important things that need to be done.
On the other hand... I'm sure nobody is strong and skilled enough to hold a gearbox with one hand while screwing screws with the other hand.

Be really careful if you plan to order your clutch kit on e-bay!!! Here's what happened to me: I've ordered a stage 3 clutch kit, it was some no-name kit that had the pressure plate painted blue... and that guy sent me a 2.0 clutch disc and a 2.2 pressure plate (whitch was bigger). Of course I couldn't use the pressure plate, it's still laying around in my garage.

@GriffGirl: I don't know if you were refering to Aisin when writing about cheap clutches... but if you did, you should know they're made in Japan (not China) and your car came out the factory doors with an Aisin clutch (probably).
About racing clutches.... my guess is you never tried one, since you think they suck. You will never perform a 2-3 second burnout in the 2nd gear on dry asphalt, in straight line, if your clutch is oem.

[GriffGirl]

@GriffGirl: I don't know if you were refering to Aisin when writing about cheap clutches... but if you did, you should know they're made in Japan (not China) and your car came out the factory doors with an Aisin clutch (probably).
About racing clutches.... my guess is you never tried one, since you think they suck. You will never perform a 2-3 second burnout in the 2nd gear on dry asphalt, in straight line, if your clutch is oem.

I never said my cheapo craptastic Made in China clutch was the OEM clutch. I happened to know for a fact that it wasn't. I was simply stating that a no-name generic clutch kit costs just about the same as an Exedy OEM style clutch kit. Emphasis on the word kit. Pressure plate, clutch disc, TOB, even the fancy little plastic kung fu guide action.

I also didn't say that I thought racing clutches sucked. If you read what I said, I said that it simply wasn't necessary. I don't think racing clutches suck. I just think that on a stock 7AFE, they're overkill.

Here's a new kit off Amazon.com for $101.51 and if you choose Super Saver shipping, s/h is free. Part number is KTY03.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B5ENH4


This post has been edited by GriffGirl: Jul 13, 2009 - 3:01 PM

[supaneko]

Nah, I didn't skip over your post.

Looks like I am going to take it in and get it all fixed up. I am going to try and save up $800-$950 in hopes that that will be enough to get the bugger fixed.

Although I know I shouldn't, I am still driving it as I have to be at a doctor's office every morning for medication receipt (have to do it and this is the only car that's working since my other Celica JUST died). It gets there but I'm nervous as hell and tend to piss off the other drivers on the road whenever the thing crawls up to 35 and 45 MPH.

So, it looks like wherever I do take it, I am looking for a new clutch, new pressure plate, and to ask them rotate the flywheel?

[soulshadow]

I would not drive it as it is, unless you really want to be stranded.

BTW a new clutch kit usually comes with a pressure plate, alignment tool, and a throwout bearing if you get just the clutch disc itself you may run into problems when your mechanic calls you and tells you he can't fit it on or your bearing is crapping out.

This post has been edited by soulshadow: Jul 28, 2009 - 7:09 PM