Replacing Brake Pads, Yea Yea Im a Noob Options

[parriehunter]

Hey, i have decided to replace my own brake pads and i am trying to undo my caliper bolts but is there a locking nut as shown in the pic below.



Also after reading the Haynes manual it said to push the piston back first...is that wrong? i pumped it out through the bleeding valve aswell. will i have to pump it back up to make it easier?

Cheers in advance.

[Cuts_the_Pilot]

its been a long time since ive done a brake pad swap on single sided calipers.

but all you need to do is push the cylinder back in, use an old pad and a clamp and slowly close the clamp, be aware if you brake master cylinder is full before you start you will push fluid out of it and it'l leak everywhere.

[m-i-m-m-]

Hey man, don't think thats a lock nut no... looks like the nut is rounded slightly, are you having trouble removing it?
It could be seized slightly.

The piston has to be pushed back before the caliper will fit back over the new pads, as soon as the caliper is removed from the disc
the piston slowly extends... use a clamp and cloth like Cuts_the_Pilot said to push it back fully and then it should fit back on the disc.

Btw be careful not to let the weight of the caliper pull on the brake line when its off! Don't just leave it sitting on something un-secured.
I usually tie it to the suspension with a bungee cord.

Rob.

This post has been edited by m-i-m-m-: Jul 30, 2009 - 1:14 PM

[Mstoochn]

r u trying to repalce your pads or the hole caliper? the top Caliper mount doesn't come off if your replacing your pads, only the lower bolt then u swing the caliper up exposing the pads i did mine yesturday

This post has been edited by Mstoochn: Jul 30, 2009 - 2:07 PM

[m-i-m-m-]

I had to remove the caliper replacing the front pads on mine.... but the rear swung up like Mstoochn said.
Thinking about it maybe I just didn't realise while doing the front!

[parriehunter]

Yea the bolts are bloody tight, so just undo the bottom one do i have to hold a spanner on the inner nut?

Yea i am just replacing the pads. cheers ill try again soon.

[parriehunter]

Ok i feel like a real noob, that was the nut that the bolt screws into........

Got them off and on again no trouble, i put some bendix brakes so hopefully they are good...

Cheers everyone

[trdproven]

undo the bottom nut, flip the caliper up, let it hang and replace your pads. you cannot clamp the pads while the caliper is still on. Remove the fluid cover.

[parriehunter]

Yea got it all sorted havn't been for a real good drive yet so see how they r real soon

[Mstoochn]

ahhh! dont do that, letting air into the system! barely open the bleeder valve and press the brake cylinder back into the caliper. or just dont open the bleeder

[parriehunter]

ahhh! dont do that, letting air into the system! barely open the bleeder valve and press the brake cylinder back into the caliper. or just dont open the bleeder

I fully bleed the system and gave it a flush no air in there now . the pedal feels alot more responsive now than b4 not sure if that is just the pads or not.

when i bleed it the nipple had no way to suck air in...the hose was fill of fluid and whenever it was opened or closed the gf was pushing on the brake pedal. definitely no air in the system. Thanks for your concern...definitely dont want air in the system.

[trdproven]

no need to let air into the system unless you are changing something in the brake system other than pads like brake master, caliper, etc.