Upgraded Suspension Bushings, front control arm and rear trailing/adjustment arm bushings Options

[hurley97]

A while ago I bought these Polyurethane bushings for the rear suspension and I finally got a chance to install them




You can get them on eBay here
or from Red Rocket Performance, or user RedRkt01 here on 6gc, mr2oc, or celicatech


We had installed the set for the front on Dustin's car a while back, link to thread here, and they made a huge difference. I wanted to do the rears first in my car to see the difference between just the fronts and just the rears. So I did.

They replace the bushings in both rear adjustment arms, trailing arms, and control arms. I brought the car to work and installed them with the help of one of the guys I work with. The job required the use of the press, vice, air hammer, torch, the air gun, and a few hand tools. Not really a job I could have done by myself outside in front of the house, might have been able to do it in Manny's garage but it would not have been easy and would have taken at least all day if not all weekend. It took us about 3-1/2 to 4 hrs to finish the job. And yes, you really need to do an alignment afterward.

I didn't really take good pictures during the process and all I have are crappy pictures of the finished product. Maybe I can get some better ones on my day off.












First Impressions:
I've only put about 150 miles on the car since the installation and most of it has been back and forth to work in traffic. I do have to say, these things are very bad for me. People already tell me I drive like a maniac and I'm usually the only person on the road who speeds up to take a corner, but now I just feel like I can go even faster all the time. I have gotten a little time with some corners and all I can think about is finding more corners and driving even faster around them. I actually got my front wheels to loose grip around a corner while the rear had not problem and just guided the car around. The car feels much more solid overall and, it might seem weird, but I feel like the steering is more precise.
I used to take 30mph curved exit ramps at 75-80mph and be scared, hovering my foot over the brake pedal just in case I needed it. Now, I have complete confidence in my 80mph exit ramp and speed up the whole way through. So far so good

(I really am not that much of a manic though... not all the time anyway)

This post has been edited by hurley97: May 31, 2011 - 5:25 PM

[epocsirhc]

When will you be doing the front bushings? I think of all the things that I did on my dads Porsche bushings made the biggest difference.

[SwissFerdi]

So this basically gets rid of some play in the components?

[Tigawoods]

looks great!
the only reason that has kept me from doing this is the work involved, and like you said itd be a pain in the butt if it where done in a garage by yourself lol
maybe ill throw them in this summer

[Stambo]

you might as well do an alignment after getting all those bolts loosened up!

I have decent experience with a press for doing wheel bearings and such. Did you just press the old ones out and press the new ones in? Almost like a press in wheel bearing?

[blu94gt]

Bushings are a PAIN IN THE BUTT to do! I did all the rears on my Miata, even with access to a shop, torch, air tools and everything it took a few days. I'd love to do the ones on the Celica, but just don't have the time or access to a shop anymore.

How much did that kit cost btw? That's the first full kit I've seen for our cars.

[BonzaiCelica]

oo very nice. Cant wait to get all my suspension work on my car done! well keep us updated on your crazy driving habits. Im just like you I love to drive fast on on-ramps whenever i get the chance to its just so fun.

How much would they charge to install these things at a shop?

[Ruroniarc]

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SUSPENSION-BUSHING-K...d#ht_1589wt_939

200USD

[SwissFerdi]

For a few pieces of material, $200? What a ripoff.

[Batman722]

For a few pieces of material, $200? What a ripoff.

that's funny

[BonzaiCelica]

you have to consider that he is the only person who makes the bushings. you got to pay to play, as some would say

[hurley97]

This is what I was quoted when I bought them, not sure if the price has changed since then.


The front bushings are $81.40.
The rear bushings are $195.35.
Together they are $262.90.

[SwissFerdi]

that's funny

Care to elaborate, am I missing something? I mean, a difference in handling is a difference in handling...200 just seems like a lot for a few pieces of polymer.

[richee3]

I'm sure if you have old crappy worn out bushings (as I do) then $200 is a steal. One of these days, I'll do it. I just don't want to pay a shop to do it.

[hurley97]

I have to comment that it was money well spent. And the difference in handling all depends on the part, its not all the same and like anything else you pay more for something that makes a bigger difference. For example, how much does a stock strut bar cost and how effective is it? You pay more for a three point front or rear strut bar, why? Because it makes a bigger difference in handling. And like BonzaiCelica said, he is the only one that makes them for our cars, you pay for rare parts also. Thats why parts for Celica's are generally more expensive than for a Civic say. And I think Dustin's point is they are not just pieces or polymer, there is a lot engineering and precision involved. For example again, why do you pay so much for tires? Why do some tires cost more than others? They are all just pieces of rubber aren't they?

[Stambo]

shot down, anyways when you get the fronts installed i wanna hear how it turns out.

[SwissFerdi]

I have to comment that it was money well spent. And the difference in handling all depends on the part, its not all the same and like anything else you pay more for something that makes a bigger difference. For example, how much does a stock strut bar cost and how effective is it? You pay more for a three point front or rear strut bar, why? Because it makes a bigger difference in handling. And like BonzaiCelica said, he is the only one that makes them for our cars, you pay for rare parts also. Thats why parts for Celica's are generally more expensive than for a Civic say. And I think Dustin's point is they are not just pieces or polymer, there is a lot engineering and precision involved. For example again, why do you pay so much for tires? Why do some tires cost more than others? They are all just pieces of rubber aren't they?

Thanks for the explanation.

[OOBE]

I bought those Polish bushings for my Celica months ago. Glad you like them I haven't installed them yet.

[OOBE]

This is what I was quoted when I bought them, not sure if the price has changed since then.


The front bushings are $81.40.
The rear bushings are $195.35.
Together they are $262.90.

You got them cheaper. I paid almost $400 shipped for my 16 bushings.

[Tigawoods]

i would have no problem forking that out

[Galcobar]

I have decent experience with a press for doing wheel bearings and such. Did you just press the old ones out and press the new ones in? Almost like a press in wheel bearing?

Interested in the how-to as well. Side question: did either end of the suspension arms (the four arms which run in lateral pairs) show themselves to be spherical bearings when you pressed out the original pieces?

It's been pretty much determined in fifth-gens that the outboard ends contain spherical bearings and the inboard ends contain rubber bushings; wondering if the sixth-gen is different since the design for the lateral arms changed somewhat.

[hurley97]

I have decent experience with a press for doing wheel bearings and such. Did you just press the old ones out and press the new ones in? Almost like a press in wheel bearing?

Interested in the how-to as well. Side question: did either end of the suspension arms (the four arms which run in lateral pairs) show themselves to be spherical bearings when you pressed out the original pieces?

It's been pretty much determined in fifth-gens that the outboard ends contain spherical bearings and the inboard ends contain rubber bushings; wondering if the sixth-gen is different since the design for the lateral arms changed somewhat.

I don't think so. You mean like a wheel bearing where there is actually rollers or ball bearings contained in it correct? If so, I didn't see any. In both sides of the two trailing arms from the cross member to the hub there were thick metal collars between the rubber and the arm. They made a pretty loud banging noise when we pressed them out and I'm pretty sure they came out very deformed, so whether we crushed them too much to be able to tell if there was an actual bearing in there, I'm not entirely sure. The larger bushings in the control arm that connects the body of the car to the hub was just rubber.

And yea, I did just press the old ones out and press the new ones in. When we did Dusin's fronts in Manny's garage we used the vice.

[Stambo]

thanks for the info. Shouldn't be to bad except getting all the bolts loose for me

[domyz]

I did front, rear bushings in polyurethane as well the polyurethane engine mounts, I also changed my shocks for new KYB GR2. It took about 12hours.
The car feel new, but needed an alignement.
It corners incredibly well and engine/clutch/steering response is tight, fast and precise.


These thing will even force me to put stickier/wider tires next year because the car is now too stiff for my Exclaim UHP 225/45/17.


P.S.: These are not a steal at 250$, this would cost more than 1500$ of parts at the dealer. I called him and he wanted 500$ for only 4 rear bushings (they come with useless new rods).

This post has been edited by domyz: Jan 17, 2010 - 5:54 PM

[OOBE]

i would have no problem forking that out

Exactly. It's either that or nothing. It didn't hurt me at all. I was happy, 'cause I found all of them. Plus, it's cool that I don't understand a single word on the tube of lube.

[Euphoria]

First Impressions:
I've only put about 150 miles on the car since the installation and most of it has been back and forth to work in traffic. I do have to say, these things are very bad for me. People already tell me I drive like a maniac and I'm usually the only person on the road who speeds up to take a corner, but now I just feel like I can go even faster all the time. I have gotten a little time with some corners and all I can think about is finding more corners and driving even faster around them. I actually got my front wheels to loose grip around a corner while the rear had not problem and just guided the car around. The car feels much more solid overall and, it might seem weird, but I feel like the steering is more precise.
I used to take 30mph curved exit ramps at 75-80mph and be scared, hovering my foot over the brake pedal just in case I needed it. Now, I have complete confidence in my 80mph exit ramp and speed up the whole way through. So far so good

(I really am not that much of a manic though... not all the time anyway)

haha sounds exactly like me, I did shocks/springs, sway bars, strut bars but had terrible tyres, got some super good tyres and now I can't help but fly around any corner I see lol.

Do sway bars, or atleast the rear sway bar, it will complete your car .

Depending how long I keep my car but I wouldn't mind doing that in the future.

This post has been edited by Euphoria: Jan 17, 2010 - 8:10 PM

[hurley97]

thanks for the info. Shouldn't be to bad except getting all the bolts loose for me

Yeah we broke the passenger side one that goes through the big bushing at the bottom of the hub, you can see the brand new bolt going through it in the pic.
And the big long bolt going through the hub the other way needs to be heated up for a while before it comes loose, you can see the discoloration in the metal.

And my car has like no rust, so that is saying something.

i would have no problem forking that out

Exactly. It's either that or nothing. It didn't hurt me at all. I was happy, 'cause I found all of them. Plus, it's cool that I don't understand a single word on the tube of lube.

I translated it word for word, it still made no sense haha

This post has been edited by hurley97: Jan 17, 2010 - 10:45 PM

[IllIllIll]

Did you notice an increase in noise from the suspension? Any squeaks? I have a convertible Celica, & I'm sure any additional noises would drive me batty after a while.

[hurley97]

Not at all. Just as quiet as before.

[RocketScott]

Any chance on doing a group buy on these and the fronts?

[stl95celica]

Any chance on doing a group buy on these and the fronts?

ohhh intrested

[ChfNix]

Any chance on doing a group buy on these and the fronts?

ohhh intrested

Me to!!!

[lburner]

im in

[str8thugginit4ya]

Any chance on doing a group buy on these and the fronts?

ohhh intrested

Me to!!!

Count me in as well. I've been saving up for this!

[hurley97]

Just so its clear, this isn't actually a group buy... you still have to contact the seller that I mentioned in the first post to buy the bushings or try to organize a group buy.

[rave2n]

Hmm, thats quite expensive for those. The materials is not to expensive, I'm sure making the mold could take a little time.

All you really need is a vacumn chamber, which is quite easy to make, and the mold....

If someone has a extra one to allow me to make a mold off of, I can make these.

I used to make air chucks for fiber tensioning spindles for textile industries. Its just a polyurathane chuck, when air is supplied in middle it expands to hold the spindle in place.



Thats what it looks like, I can even do custom colors for ya guys =P

This post has been edited by rave2n: Feb 25, 2010 - 9:29 AM

[chacha]

that would be a nice alternative....rooting for RAve2N...you should look into do all sorts of bushings and engine mounts...etc

[rave2n]

Very true on the other options.

What I can do, whomever sends me a piece to cast my mold, i'll send a set free to once completed. Of course I'll need some time to get the molds made, but once that is all completed, I can pump'em out pretty easiely. It would only take a hour a set to make.

I already have my vacumn chamber =) - I just gota seal a leak on the vacumn line i've been ignoring cause I don't really use it to often =-P

[OOBE]

Well, that's nice that you come forward with this after I spent almost $400 shipped for mine.

[Valo666]

damn, where were these when I had my celica?? I needed to change my trailing arm bushing sooo bad. I actually ended up ordering a set from TRD NZ that took like 6 months to come in and turned out to be the wrong bushings AND they were like $120 just for the trailing arm bushings + shipping.

[rave2n]

Well, that's nice that you come forward with this after I spent almost $400 shipped for mine.

lol, sorry about that, been focused on the rims I was doing, now that suspension is this weekend, i started to troll these forums =P

[cjh4l22]

nice! might have to do this with my suspension upgrades (coilovers, strut & sway bars)

[Samflint1]

I have bought a set of these bushes for my celica and a couple of them i am having trouble fitting. I cant seem to get the 8" bolt out that goes through the rear hub and its totally jammed in place. Were yours stuck or do you have any suggestions for their removal? I cant get the control arms off at all either :S. Atleast i have fitted 6 out of 12 bushes which has stopped the majority of the suspension knocking

[playr158]

I have bought a set of these bushes for my celica and a couple of them i am having trouble fitting. I cant seem to get the 8" bolt out that goes through the rear hub and its totally jammed in place. Were yours stuck or do you have any suggestions for their removal? I cant get the control arms off at all either :S. Atleast i have fitted 6 out of 12 bushes which has stopped the majority of the suspension knocking

use a jack to support the knuckle and take off the pressure, it should make taking the bolt out much easier. or long flat head screw driver/ tap and a hammer with a couple taps always works too.

[Samflint1]

I have bought a set of these bushes for my celica and a couple of them i am having trouble fitting. I cant seem to get the 8" bolt out that goes through the rear hub and its totally jammed in place. Were yours stuck or do you have any suggestions for their removal? I cant get the control arms off at all either :S. Atleast i have fitted 6 out of 12 bushes which has stopped the majority of the suspension knocking

use a jack to support the knuckle and take off the pressure, it should make taking the bolt out much easier. or long flat head screw driver/ tap and a hammer with a couple taps always works too.

When I took the car apart i actually took the rear beam off totally and just had the tracking rods loose. I tried using a blow lamp and a breakers bar but to no avail. I could use oxy acetylene kit but im worried about changing the properties of the metal so much that is could fail. Can i do this?

[hurley97]

Yes, mine were stuck. You have to take a torch or something and heat the hell out of it for like 15 mins... literally.

[CanadaCelica]

Hi everyone,

This weekend I am hoping to join all of you who have installed these poly bushings



But before I start I need a little direction.
This might be a dumb question, for those who have installed these using a at home vice. Is this one big enough?





I ask since I am not sure how much leverage is required to squeeze them in.
Did you use anything to help with pushing the bushing all the way through the arm? eg wood with a hole cut out to buffer the arm as the bushing slides through.

Last question I noticed that the larger of the rear bushings have a different end between the left and the right side.



Is there one way over the other that I should install into the arm.

Thanks guys for any help you can offer me here.

[azian_advanced]

one thing i know for sure is that the GT-S came with sport suspension and so the rear bushings for the lateral control arms are larger than regular ST and non-sport-suspension GT by about a 1/4" in diameter. so you might have a poly bushing too small for the control arm.

[CanadaCelica]

Azian no, you are not supposed to tell me these things.

Ok hopefully that's not correct but for some reason i think it might be...

So I was able to get an early start to my weekend.
Some pics of my encounters from last night.

This is how the lateral arms look normally.


After I burned off the rubber boot and then comparing to the bushing sent from Paul.







One thing I did not expect is what looks like solid metal around the inner collar!
Is this what needs to be pressed out? Did everyone else who has finished this install come across the same situation?
I am a little worried that I just screwed myself here! Arg....

Well any information is greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

[SwissFerdi]

I've never done this so I'm not sure, but I think that part has to be pressed out indeed.

[garin]

I used to take 30mph curved exit ramps at 75-80mph and be scared, hovering my foot over the brake pedal just in case I needed it. Now, I have complete confidence in my 80mph exit ramp and speed up the whole way through. So far so good

(I really am not that much of a manic though... not all the time anyway)

[4-eyed-freek]

i went 80 in a 35 before, i only did it once in my life because my friend that was following told me my back tire came off the ground about 2 inches, and let me tell u i was shaking in my boots lol never again.

[CanadaCelica]

Well some good news and some bad.
The good is that the bushings fit into the control arms. Ended up taking them to a shop and surely pressed out the old and then pressed the new poly ones in. So I am happy about that.

Bad news, I can't for the life of me get the 8" bolt out. I tried the same tactics as Samflint1 and no luck. As well from whalen on the bolt for so long it was starting to mushroom at the end. So I will be taking the celi to a shop where they can use a hotter acetylene torch to loosen them.

[dubb_head]

Well some good news and some bad.
The good is that the bushings fit into the control arms. Ended up taking them to a shop and surely pressed out the old and then pressed the new poly ones in. So I am happy about that.

Bad news, I can't for the life of me get the 8" bolt out. I tried the same tactics as Samflint1 and no luck. As well from whalen on the bolt for so long it was starting to mushroom at the end. So I will be taking the celi to a shop where they can use a hotter acetylene torch to loosen them.

Hey,

I am in Mississauga, Ontario.
I have a 94 GT-S which has 1 bushing starting to go in the front control arm....I think it is to change em and it looks like I will be doing same job as you pretty soon.

How much was shipping for you from Poland ?

Sebastian

[Batman722]

and boom goes the dynamite

[hurley97]

Dustin and I installed the fronts today... after sitting in my trunk for almost a year













just drove around a little bit... huge difference already. they make just about as much difference as the rears did but in a totally different way. i'll know more after driving it for a few days. definitely need an alignment again.

[jordisonjr]

Where are you guys getting these bushings from? And how difficult are they to install yourself.
All I have is a bench vise like pictured above, would that be sufficient?
Some of my bushings need to be replaced, so may as well upgrade.

[BonzaiCelica]

very nice I don't think i'll ever get myself a set of coilovers. The only suspension upgrade I need is front and rear polyurethane bushings with front two r us links and rear miata polyurethane links and I'm good. ya keep us updated.

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: May 31, 2011 - 12:17 PM

[jordisonjr]

very nice I don't think i'll ever get myself a set of coilovers. The only suspension upgrade I need is front and rear polyurethane bushings with front two r us links and rear miata polyurethane links and I'm good. ya keep us updated.

Did you actually notice a big difference with the two r us end links? I have them on mine and didn't notice much of a difference.
I kept the length the same as teh stock length, and I'm lowered on tien s techs.

[BonzaiCelica]

very nice I don't think i'll ever get myself a set of coilovers. The only suspension upgrade I need is front and rear polyurethane bushings with front two r us links and rear miata polyurethane links and I'm good. ya keep us updated.

Did you actually notice a big difference with the two r us end links? I have them on mine and didn't notice much of a difference.
I kept the length the same as teh stock length, and I'm lowered on tien s techs.

you will not notice a difference with the two's r us end links. If you get rear miata polyurethane end links you'll notice a bit of a difference. your better off welding your stock links to the control arm, but I wouldn't advise doing so. I still have oem end links im just saying by what I heard from other members.

Edit shame on you hurley, get some sway bars already!!

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: May 31, 2011 - 2:31 PM

[jordisonjr]

Oh cause I got the two's r us endlinks and didn't notice much of a difference

[Galcobar]

One thing I did not expect is what looks like solid metal around the inner collar!
Is this what needs to be pressed out? Did everyone else who has finished this install come across the same situation?
I am a little worried that I just screwed myself here! Arg....

Well any information is greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

That's not solid metal, that's a spherical bearing -- at least, it certainly appears to be the same as the fifth-gen arm. I'm quite surprised that there's been no binding issues due to replacing those bearings with bushings, but it's good news if there's no downsides. It's a hell of a lot cheaper that having to replace the entire arm or use a bearing in those four suspension arms.

[hurley97]

I'm all set with dropping my gas tank to do the rear sway bar. I think these things are so much better, not from personal experience with both but just feeling the difference the front and rear bushings made. From what I've heard/been told about sway bars they are great but make the ride very harsh. These bushings on the other hand made my ride quality better along with better handling. Its the best of both worlds which is hard to find when it comes to things for cars.

This post has been edited by hurley97: May 31, 2011 - 5:28 PM

[Euphoria]

I'm all set with dropping my gas tank to do the rear sway bar. I think these things are so much better, not from personal experience with both but just feeling the difference the front and rear bushings made. From what I've heard/been told about sway bars they are great but make the ride very harsh. These bushings on the other hand made my ride quality better along with better handling. Its the best of both worlds which is hard to find when it comes to things for cars.

Interesting that you say the bushings made the ride quality better, kind makes me want to do it as in theory you'd think poly urethane would be worse as its hard.

Sway bars don't change the ride quality, they control roll but they would change it a bit although I never noticed it.

[Johnnyny]

I'm all set with dropping my gas tank to do the rear sway bar. I think these things are so much better, not from personal experience with both but just feeling the difference the front and rear bushings made. From what I've heard/been told about sway bars they are great but make the ride very harsh. These bushings on the other hand made my ride quality better along with better handling. Its the best of both worlds which is hard to find when it comes to things for cars.

drop that gas tank!

[BonzaiCelica]

thats not true the sway bars are a great improvement especially if your someone who likes to take every corner like its their last. They will not make your rider more harsh, coilovers on the other hand will.

[Batman722]

my coilovers are completely adjustable (32 ride adjustment settings), my ride comfort is just fine (I have the front bushings not the rear). I've driven and rode in defgeph's car with ST bars and Tien springs (stock bushings), harshest ride I have ever had.

[purplegt4]

I just pm'd redrkt1. hopefully these are still available, as the link on page 1 didn't work well as it's a year and a half old.

*crossing fingers*

[purplegt4]

http://www.gt4-racing.eu/index.php/toyota-...spension-bushes

ah ha! how do the prices compare?

[Culpable04]

basically same price, I think he had some kind of 6gc discount, but not sure what percent, so I ordered mines from that site.
got them around 2 weeks later which considering they are coming from Poland is not bad at all.

[purplegt4]

basically same price, I think he had some kind of 6gc discount, but not sure what percent, so I ordered mines from that site.
got them around 2 weeks later which considering they are coming from Poland is not bad at all.

awesome.

the site said to contact about worldwide shipping, u remember how much that ran?

[purplegt4]

http://www.gt4-racing.eu/index.php/toyota-...spension-bushes

...

Got an email back, for those interested in group buy.

About discounts for more sets:
- 5 sets 15% discount [shiping 79eur]
- 10 sets 20% discount [shipping 99eur]

[Johnnyny]

http://www.gt4-racing.eu/index.php/toyota-...spension-bushes

...

Got an email back, for those interested in group buy.

About discounts for more sets:
- 5 sets 15% discount [shiping 79eur]
- 10 sets 20% discount [shipping 99eur]

get that group buy rolling

[purplegt4]

http://www.gt4-racing.eu/index.php/toyota-...spension-bushes

...

Got an email back, for those interested in group buy.

About discounts for more sets:
- 5 sets 15% discount [shiping 79eur]
- 10 sets 20% discount [shipping 99eur]

get that group buy rolling

I didn't want to wait, so I got mine.

[jordisonjr]

Alright so I found out that I need to replace my Front control arm bushings, so If anyone is interested in a group buy, I'd be interested as well, but I need them asap.

[S8S8]

I'd be interested in a group buy for both sets.

[jordisonjr]

Sorry couldnt wait and placed an order yesturday.
I' just wondering how difficult is it to replace these with basic tools, and jackstands in a garage?
Is it something very difficult?
I have a bench mounted vice, but if that doesn't work I have no problem taking it to a shop to get them pressed in.
I just want to make sure its something that can be done by myself, beacuse I looked at a manual and it looks like quite a bit of work just to remove the control arm.

[Ted95]

Sorry couldnt wait and placed an order yesturday.
I' just wondering how difficult is it to replace these with basic tools, and jackstands in a garage?
Is it something very difficult?
I have a bench mounted vice, but if that doesn't work I have no problem taking it to a shop to get them pressed in.
I just want to make sure its something that can be done by myself, beacuse I looked at a manual and it looks like quite a bit of work just to remove the control arm.

The fronts are very easy to take apart and install back on, you can do it with basic tools in your garage with some jackstands and a vice.. the rears are a lot harder from what I hear.

[czwalga]

If this gets rolling i'd be in for a group buy. ST204 front kit and ST205 rear kit.


Someone would have to PM me though as I probably wont check this thread often.

[jordisonjr]

Has anyone had problems putting the control arm back in?
When I go to tighten the bolt that goes parallel to th ground towards the back of the car, it threads in about 3/4 of the way and then just continues to spin, but not easy enough that you can do it by hand.
I don't think these are stripped though because it does it on both side and when I was removing that bolt it took a real long time to get out as well. It took a couple minutes of turning the bolt for it to come out.
Is this normal? Or is my subframe stripped?

[jordisonjr]

Anyone?

[Batman722]

The ones I've done they all just went right back in just as they came out.

[jordisonjr]

Great haha.
Does that mean the my subframe is stripped?
The bolt appears to be fine.

[zeus83]

anyone tried replacing the front SS bushes...i guess there are 2 of them...

my ST205 swap feels damn spongy at hight speeds and corners

[jordisonjr]

Has anyone had issues with these wearing out fairly quickly?
I installed min July 2011 (by the looks of of it, from my posts in this thread) and last night discovered that on the driver side wheel, the bushing towards the back of the car has quite a bit of play, and is causing a huge clunking noise. You can actually see the wheel move forward and back within the wheel well while accelerating and stopping, and I can recreate the sound/movement by simply shaking the wheel front to back with my hands, with the cars weight on the wheels. And I'm pretty frustrated that these are worn already.

When I replaced them, I torched out the existing bushing (leaving the ring inside the arm) and brought it to a mechanic to press in the new bushing. I'm not sure if the ring was left in the arm, or taken out, but from the looks of it, everyone that's done these bushings have taken the ring out. I also did NOT use the OEM crush tube within the bushing as Tigawoods did, but it seems no one else did either. Could either of these two things cause extra movement in the arm or per-mature wear? Or were the bushings just installed wrong? Right now it seems the rear bushing is the only one moving, but I've yet to put the car in the air and inspect closer.

I did a quick visual inspection, and the bushing appears to be intact, and not cracked or torn, so I'm a little confused as to why this would be causing noise after about 3.5-4 summers of regular driving and no track use. Any insight would be great, as I'd like to avoid replacing these bushings again. And if they do need replacing already, I will probably be going back to OEM which, IIRC, cost about 500 CDN, and not something I'd really like to do either.

[Batman722]

If you can move the arm/bushing then the bolt isn't tight enough.

We've had bushings in our Celicas for years without issue.

Where is it hitting exactly ?
Is the hole (for the long 19mm head bolt) elongated ? Does it tighten enough to keep the arm in place ?

[jordisonjr]

If you can move the arm/bushing then the bolt isn't tight enough.

We've had bushings in our Celicas for years without issue.

Where is it hitting exactly ?
Is the hole (for the long 19mm head bolt) elongated ? Does it tighten enough to keep the arm in place ?

Its the bolt towards the back of the car, that goes vertically, perpendicular to the ground.
It seems almost as if there is play between the inner sleeve of the bushing and the bolt that goes through there (hopefully that makes sense), allowing the arm to move forward and back slightly.
I haven't had a chance to take a closer look to see if the hole is elongated since the problem got worse about a week ago. The car came off the road on Monday, as I didn't want to risk farther damage, but the arm was still where it should be, with the slight forward/backward movement.

Tonight I'm going to tear into it and see what I can find.

[richee3]

Those bushings have never even looked right in my car. Neither set. I'll get pictures when I get home. It's either my limited slip going out or those bushings that have been causing serious front end issues for me for the last few years.

[jordisonjr]

Those bushings have never even looked right in my car. Neither set. I'll get pictures when I get home. It's either my limited slip going out or those bushings that have been causing serious front end issues for me for the last few years.

I've kind of always thought the same thing. They didn't really seem to seat right in the LCA, or the pocket (Rear bushing) where the control arm mounts. But since I had someone else press them in, I thought that's how they should look.
Ill be tearing into my car tonight, hopefully, and Ill get pictures when I do so.

This post has been edited by jordisonjr: Aug 12, 2015 - 1:01 PM

[richee3]

Sounds exactly like mine. Like the control arm sits on a downward angle and the bushing sits perfectly straight up and down with the bolt. I started having torque steer and bump steer issues shortly after I installed my first set of bushings. Dustin and Stef found my issue, which was a broken nut inside the subframe which had allowed the horizontal bolt on the passenger side to loosen slightly and let the control arm wiggle around. I cut my subframe open and got the nut and bolt tightened but the problem continued. Dustin thought the bolt had worn the hole in the subframe but everything looked great when I took it apart. Nonetheless, I got a new subframe, control arms, and bushings. My problem continues, exactly the same as before. I still have a popping noise when I first start rolling and it still torque steers. At this point, either my LSD is worn out and causing my issues or I coincidentally got two sets of bushings that ruined my car. I'm leaning towards the diff right now but it's funny that you bring this up because I have a popping noise similar to yours and I don't like the look of the rear bushings at all.

Literally everything else in my front end has been replaced. Motor mounts, steering rack, end links, ball joints, subframe, control arms, bushings, bearings, brakes, axles, everything. The trans/diff have stayed the same so it's either the poly bushings or the diff causing my issues.

[jordisonjr]

Sounds exactly like mine. Like the control arm sits on a downward angle and the bushing sits perfectly straight up and down with the bolt. I started having torque steer and bump steer issues shortly after I installed my first set of bushings. Dustin and Stef found my issue, which was a broken nut inside the subframe which had allowed the horizontal bolt on the passenger side to loosen slightly and let the control arm wiggle around. I cut my subframe open and got the nut and bolt tightened but the problem continued. Dustin thought the bolt had worn the hole in the subframe but everything looked great when I took it apart. Nonetheless, I got a new subframe, control arms, and bushings. My problem continues, exactly the same as before. I still have a popping noise when I first start rolling and it still torque steers. At this point, either my LSD is worn out and causing my issues or I coincidentally got two sets of bushings that ruined my car. I'm leaning towards the diff right now but it's funny that you bring this up because I have a popping noise similar to yours and I don't like the look of the rear bushings at all.

That sounds like how my bushing sits as well, and as far as I can remember, that's how it looked right from the start. My popping has evolved into the whole arm moving. The rear "branch" of the LCA seems to be the culprit. Because with the car on the ground, e brake on, if I push the front wheel forward and back, I can recreate the "popping" sound, which i can see is the rear "branch" of the LCA moving with in its bracket on the chassis, almost pivoting around the front two bushings of the LCA

And now that I think about it, my car does tend to pull every which way upon acceleration, but I always thought that was caused by having wider wheels, and the ruts in the road pulling the car. Maybe this could be related.

This post has been edited by jordisonjr: Aug 12, 2015 - 2:38 PM

[richee3]

I'm working on getting a replacement S54 but now you have me doubting whether that's the issue or whether we are having the same issue.

[jordisonjr]

Sorry man, Ill be sure to keep this thread updated with my findings.

[Batman722]

One thing I noticed on other bushings I've put in is the metal sleeve that goes inside the bushing (that the bolt goes through) is sometimes a bit too long.
On my 7 gen I shaved the end of it on my grinding wheel so the sleeve didn't stick out further than the bushing itself.
FYI.

[richee3]

It's actually sitting kind of decent right now but it normally looks a little worse than this.

[jordisonjr]

That's almost exactly how mine looks as well, but I wasn't able to capture it very well.
This is what mine look like with the car on the ground: (Not the greatest shots but this was what I was able to get)



And then once the car is in the air, and wheel off:



So I was fully planning ot be laying under the car all night yesturday, but Batmans comment got me thinking:

If you can move the arm/bushing then the bolt isn't tight enough.
Does it tighten enough to keep the arm in place ?

So the first thing I checked was if the bolt going through the bushing vertically into the chassis was tight enough. Sure enough, it was fairly loose, ~50 Ft Lbs or so. So I tightened it up to around 80 ft. lbs. and dropped the car back down.

Tried shaking the wheel back and fourth with my hands, which caused a pretty hefty clunk/movement in the arm before, and no movement or noise.
So I went for a drive, accelerating pretty hard and stopping pretty hard, and no noise yet. I stopped extremely hard once to try and re create the noise, and there was a small pop, which I think was the LCA re-seating to where it should be, because it only happened once, and hasn't yet happened again after testing.

So I drove the car to work this morning, and it seems to have solved the issue. I'm not completely convinced that this was the only problem, but I'm going to continue driving it for now and hope for the best. I'll keep this thread updated in a week or so if this is the solution, or if the issue comes back.

This post has been edited by jordisonjr: Aug 13, 2015 - 8:36 AM

[chacha]

Sorry to bring up and old post, but need clarification. Bringing this thread up, I'm confused, did anyone put the crush tube oem in or use the thicker ones TCB UK make or the one BRD makes sold on BRD or GT4-Play? Can I install without using the crush tube into the metal sleeves of the polyurethane mounts?