No need for spring compressor on rear struts?, Changing out my struts Options

[senick]

Well, lately the noise coming from the trunk has gotten fairly unbearable, and the ride exceptionally bouncy, especially in the cold. I'm thinking it's time for new struts, and I'd like to take care of it at work where we have a lift. I just want to confirm though that a spring compressor isn't needed in the back? I have an 95 AT200, and the writeup on installing coilovers mentioned that said compressor is unnecessary.

As a side note, could clunking noise also come from a lose tower? Maybe I should change out the mounts while I'm at it....

[playr158]

Well, lately the noise coming from the trunk has gotten fairly unbearable, and the ride exceptionally bouncy, especially in the cold. I'm thinking it's time for new struts, and I'd like to take care of it at work where we have a lift. I just want to confirm though that a spring compressor isn't needed in the back? I have an 95 AT200, and the writeup on installing coilovers mentioned that said compressor is unnecessary.

As a side note, could clunking noise also come from a lose tower? Maybe I should change out the mounts while I'm at it....

A compressor isn't needed at all if you are installing coilovers or lowering springs.
however if you're using stock springs you may need one.
if anything it'll just make the install easier. Rentable from advanced or autozone

[senick]

Yeah, I'm just sticking with stock. Didn't know you could rent those, that's good to know. Thanks for that info.

[senick]

Also, this will be my first time changing struts, although I'll be having help at the shop. Is it customary practice to change anything else when changing the struts, like mounts or springs? I've let these go for far too long, and I'm wondering if it hasn't caused damage to any other components.

[rave2n]

Backs you definately don't need a compressor.

Your issues with be with the end-links. Make sure you have needle noise grips to hold behind it, as well make sure you raise the hub when releasing the endlink.

If these are the original struts, expect to have a good fight with the strut bolts, or I believe called camber bolts? They are going to be in there nice and solid. There isn't alot of room to strong arm them out either. Without air tools it can be a major pain. Being you have drum rears it'll be a bit easier to work around and not damage the break line. Soak them in pb blaster for a few hours, and have fun. Reinstall is straight forward, you'll end up having to use your leg to lift the hub to return the bolts.

Change it all, struts springs mounts, and dampeners.

This post has been edited by rave2n: Jan 27, 2012 - 11:07 AM

[senick]

Alright. I'm not sure if everything's original or not, but I'm going to assume so. Luckily, I have access to air tools, so that should expedite things. Thanks for the info, hopefully I'll get the parts once the ol' tax check comes in!

[rave2n]

Alright. I'm not sure if everything's original or not, but I'm going to assume so. Luckily, I have access to air tools, so that should expedite things. Thanks for the info, hopefully I'll get the parts once the ol' tax check comes in!

If you need a new set of rear struts, I have 2 in the box kyb gr2 rears that are OEM replacements.

50 bucks + shipping =) - Much cheaper then purchasing elsewhere

[RabidTRD]

Regardless of what anyone says on here, do not take the center nut off the struts without a spring compressor. You don't want that shooting up and breaking your neck or any other part of your body.

I changed all four with two breaker bars, vice grips and like 3 sockets... it's not hard.

[rave2n]

Regardless of what anyone says on here, do not take the center nut off the struts without a spring compressor. You don't want that shooting up and breaking your neck or any other part of your body.

I changed all four with two breaker bars, vice grips and like 3 sockets... it's not hard.

For the fronts yes, but the rears do not have any pressure on the spring to the top plate of the strut.....

Fronts will certainlly shoot the nut and plate about 3 feet, just did it this last weekend being lazy. Backs were no issue at all.

This post has been edited by rave2n: Jan 27, 2012 - 2:16 PM

[cyb593]

You might as well replace the mounts, bellows, and the bearing(springs if you want to or if broken if that is at all possible). Make sure when you bolt the struts back to the hubs go over the mount bolts once again. When i did mine i had to go back and retighten because it would make a clunk noise when i test drove it. The car adds weight to it so you can tighten it more thoroughly when they are mounted up. Th process is very simple with 2 people if you dont want to have to take everything apart besides the 6 bolts.

Always use a spring compressor as like posted above you can kill yourself or hurt yourself if you dont.

This post has been edited by cyb593: Feb 2, 2012 - 4:58 PM