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> Wet Sanding
post Jan 11, 2004 - 11:45 PM
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94Toy



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Come this summer I am actually going to detail my paint for the first time. I know how to prep with a wax remover first before doing anything. My question is on wet sanding. I am going to use 2000 grit paper but my question is does direction matter; circular, up and down whatever. My grandpa owned an autobody shop so I have seen people do this before, and my mom used to work for him so she knows how to do it, but neither or us can remember if I am supposed to use a circular motion like in polishing and waxing or if it doesn't really matter.

John

This post has been edited by 94Toy: Jan 11, 2004 - 11:47 PM
post Jan 12, 2004 - 12:35 AM
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boosted_K2



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X-pattern


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post Jan 12, 2004 - 8:08 PM
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EC_Knightrider

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if u plan on using 2000, its going to take you forever and a day!

don't do it in a circular motion
post Jan 12, 2004 - 8:14 PM
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Uppitycracker



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I think you'll be ok with 600-800 grit, change sand paper often to avoid scratchs especially when using an orbital sander.

Hey K2 what the hell is an Xpatern?? tongue.gif Is that like going one direction over the piece and then perpendicular over the piece? I work at a shop that paints polymer parts for cars and I just go in one direction, not that i was ever shown the correct way, I just do what looks good tongue.gif
post Jan 12, 2004 - 9:58 PM
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94Toy



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600-800? Isn't that a little rough. My grandpa used that when he was preping to actually re-paint a car not just bring the stock paint back.

and I'm not doing it with an electric sander. I'm doing it all by hand. Yes, I know that will take forever, but I don't want to get carried away with an electric sander.

This post has been edited by 94Toy: Jan 12, 2004 - 9:59 PM
post Jan 12, 2004 - 10:03 PM
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boosted_K2



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it depends. if you are just cleaning it up. use 2000-grit. if you are sanding out scratches or paint runs or stuff use 800. X-pattern is just going one direction then switch and cross, like a X. and yea, use a softblock or hard block, use a power sander only if you are featheredging or stripping paint.


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post Jan 12, 2004 - 11:21 PM
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Uppitycracker



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QUOTE (94Toy @ Jan 12, 2004 - 7:58 PM)
600-800? Isn't that a little rough. My grandpa used that when he was preping to actually re-paint a car not just bring the stock paint back.

and I'm not doing it with an electric sander. I'm doing it all by hand. Yes, I know that will take forever, but I don't want to get carried away with an electric sander.

**** I was thinking you were going to re clear coat, in that case listen to k2.
post Jan 13, 2004 - 2:04 AM
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boosted_K2



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another thing is dont just dive in and try to do like one side at once or something. im sure your grandpa or mom have told you, but a good thing to do is to completely tape off one pannel at a time and go from one corner to the other. dont try to sand corners too much, the corners burn through alot quicker than anyother spot. 2000grit you shouldnt have a problem with eating through the clear coat, but just make sure you do it smart. this is gunna be like a 1-2 week project if you are the only one working on it and dont want to spend more than 3-4 hours a day on it.


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Believer, you'll leave her, in leaving them all
No but I don't buy it
Like anything you do, as anyone you are
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post Jan 13, 2004 - 3:03 AM
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Chanh55

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I was just about to add a new topic about this but since you started one already about a similar subject I'll just reply to it: I just finished using Mother's California Gold Clay Bar on my car (see picture)

user posted image

and I swear to you my paint looks like new. You may think your car is clean when you give it a good and thorough wash but its not. Your carwash soap will only remove so much, a lot of stuff is left behind making the paint look dull. See the link for a better explanation. I'm just telling you guys it really works...and works great, it just takes a lot of elbow grease. I used the thing on my whole car. Next thing I'm gonna do is use high gloss wax on it. smile.gif

Clay Bar Explanation

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