Tools to replace wheel bearing, Are these tools necessary for replacing wheel bearing? Options

[dangqiwu]

Are these tools necessary for replacing wheel bearing of 6G Toyota Celica?

hub & dust cap pliers


bearing packer


bearing race punch


bearing race & seal set


This post has been edited by dangqiwu: Nov 18, 2012 - 2:07 PM

[azian_advanced]

you'll need the pliers if you intend to keep the dust cap. but the dust cap bends easily and when that happens you're screwed. so you're better ordering a new dust cap than the pliers.

if the bearing packer is to pack grease into the bearing, then it's not needed if you're replacing the bearing. bearings are pre-greased already.

bearing race punch is not needed.

bearing race and seal set is needed and they're used for a hydraulic press.

[czwalga]

Races are kinda needed, I have axle nut sockets that I use to press the bearings out. Then use the old bearing with thick steel on top still to press them in.

Punch, packer, not needed. Just use needle nose pliars to remove the snap ring.


Do you have a press, and have you ever done it before? They can be tricky. You will need a bearing seperator. The inside inner race of the old bearing will be stuck on the hub when you press it out.

This post has been edited by czwalga: Nov 18, 2012 - 4:46 PM

[dangqiwu]

Thank @azian_advanced and @czwalga

I found no need to use hub & dust cap pliers because there is no dust cap at all.
As you said I don't need to buy bearing packer and bearing race punch.
I'll get a bearing race & seal set or a single one of them.

I don't have a press. May I use a hammer instead?

[czwalga]

Thank @azian_advanced and @czwalga

I found no need to use hub & dust cap pliers because there is no dust cap at all.
As you said I don't need to buy bearing packer and bearing race punch.
I'll get a bearing race & seal set or a single one of them.

I don't have a press. May I use a hammer instead?

No chance in hell you'll be able to do with a hammer. I have a 20 ton press and sometimes it's not even enough to remove the bearing without heat. They usually go in fairly easy with a press though.

[dangqiwu]

No chance in hell you'll be able to do with a hammer. I have a 20 ton press and sometimes it's not even enough to remove the bearing without heat. They usually go in fairly easy with a press though.

Sounds terrible. I'll try a press.

[dangqiwu]

No chance in hell you'll be able to do with a hammer. I have a 20 ton press and sometimes it's not even enough to remove the bearing without heat. They usually go in fairly easy with a press though.

Is one-ton press good enough? I can't afford a large press.

[azian_advanced]

I seriously doubt it. I use my dad's 25-ton press and I can feel a decent amount of resistance in the handle as I pump it to press the bearing in/out. So 1-ton definitely won't cut it. I'd say about 10-15 ton minimum.

[dangqiwu]

I seriously doubt it. I use my dad's 25-ton press and I can feel a decent amount of resistance in the handle as I pump it to press the bearing in/out. So 1-ton definitely won't cut it. I'd say about 10-15 ton minimum.

Found this 12 ton press at Harbor Freight. Only $129.99 plus $6.99 shipping.



This post has been edited by dangqiwu: Nov 20, 2012 - 10:12 PM

[czwalga]

The 12 ton will probably work. I have the 20ton from harbor freight, but i've used a 12 ton before and it did work for bearings but it was kinda right on the edge.

The harbor freight 6 ton is junk, I have one of those also, dont waste your money.



Just to let you know you're going to need steel plates or something to level everything when you set it in there. The knuckle doesnt just sit in there perfectly and you can press it out. I have a bunch of scrap steel, from 1", 1/2", 1/4", 1/8" steel to stack and level the knuckle.

If you dont do this often, you can just take the knuckles to a small shop. They usually charge $25 a knuckle. Unless you're changing bearings a lot it would probably save you money and a lot of stress.



This post has been edited by czwalga: Nov 20, 2012 - 7:11 AM

[dangqiwu]

The 12 ton will probably work. I have the 20ton from harbor freight, but i've used a 12 ton before and it did work for bearings but it was kinda right on the edge.

The harbor freight 6 ton is junk, I have one of those also, dont waste your money.



Just to let you know you're going to need steel plates or something to level everything when you set it in there. The knuckle doesnt just sit in there perfectly and you can press it out. I have a bunch of scrap steel, from 1", 1/2", 1/4", 1/8" steel to stack and level the knuckle.

If you dont do this often, you can just take the knuckles to a small shop. They usually charge $25 a knuckle. Unless you're changing bearings a lot it would probably save you money and a lot of stress.

Good to know these. Thanks!

Btw, I saw some video on how to replace wheel bearing but they only use a race & seal set with a hammer. I guess Toyota is different.

This post has been edited by dangqiwu: Nov 20, 2012 - 4:42 PM

[czwalga]

The 12 ton will probably work. I have the 20ton from harbor freight, but i've used a 12 ton before and it did work for bearings but it was kinda right on the edge.

The harbor freight 6 ton is junk, I have one of those also, dont waste your money.



Just to let you know you're going to need steel plates or something to level everything when you set it in there. The knuckle doesnt just sit in there perfectly and you can press it out. I have a bunch of scrap steel, from 1", 1/2", 1/4", 1/8" steel to stack and level the knuckle.

If you dont do this often, you can just take the knuckles to a small shop. They usually charge $25 a knuckle. Unless you're changing bearings a lot it would probably save you money and a lot of stress.

Good to know these. Thanks!

Btw, I saw some video on how to replace wheel bearing but they only use a race & seal set with a hammer. I guess Toyota is different.

Hmm well i've searched and probably saw a similar video. It maay work, but you could run into a bearing that just wont budge with the sledge.



This post has been edited by czwalga: Nov 20, 2012 - 8:37 PM

[njccmd2002]

if its the front bearing, take it to a shop.

the rears, just buy the whole setup and swap.

[dangqiwu]

if its the front bearing, take it to a shop.

the rears, just buy the whole setup and swap.

No shop anymore.
The money they charged for labor could buy a dozen of tools.

[mkernz22]

It should be only $20 to $30, per side, for a shop to replace the bearings. That's about how much it was when I had to do one.

[dangqiwu]

It should be only $20 to $30, per side, for a shop to replace the bearings. That's about how much it was when I had to do one.

Show a repair record at a local shop.

12/10/2007
Labor REPLACE BOTH C/V SHAFTS, 60*2(hours)=120
C/V SHAFTS, $83.73*2=167.46

Labor REPLACE BOTH FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS, 60*3.5(hours)=210
WHEEL BEARINGS, $72*2=144

TRANSMISSION FLUID, 2.99*2=5.98
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Sub-Total 647.44
Total(8.75%TAX) 675.21

[trdproven]

at the most its just basic tools, and usually its good to have a front end service tool kit. then you can either press it if you have it or bring it in.

[soulshadow]

A hammer will work but you need to know what your doing in order to get the bearing seated properly without wobbling.

[fussellbug]

Labor REPLACE BOTH FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS, 60*3.5(hours)=210
WHEEL BEARINGS, $72*2=144

That labor charge includes removing the hubs, pressing out/in the bearing and reassembling the hubs.
If you do the majority of the labor and just walk into the shop holding the hubs and new bearings, the labor charge just to press bearing out/in will be about $20-$30 for each side

[jordisonjr]

Please please PLEASE, don't use a hammer.
As stated before, take it to a shop just to press the bearing in and do the rest of the work yourself.

Had a guy from toyota doing my bearings, and they kept wearing out and a couldn't figur eout why, untill I realized he was simply hammering them in instead of using a press.
They will wear out quick, and you'll be throwing moeny at your car all the time.
Do it right so you don't have to do it again.

[trdproven]

A hammer will work but you need to know what your doing in order to get the bearing seated properly without wobbling.

its possible and its been done in the past to get the correct fitting pipe to go over the bearing, and then hammer the top of the pipe until you get it seated correctly. These days, i just prefer to bring it into a shop or use an actual press tool from HF. i feel more better about it this way.

This post has been edited by trdproven: Nov 22, 2012 - 5:12 PM

[ILoveMySilly97]

If it's the front bearing. There's a how to step by step. All you need are basic tools.

Just a FYI, you can loan the axle socket from AutoZone. I believe our axle socket is a 30mm?

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=49331

This post has been edited by ILoveMySilly97: Nov 24, 2012 - 11:30 AM

[mkernz22]

It should be only $20 to $30, per side, for a shop to replace the bearings. That's about how much it was when I had to do one.

Show a repair record at a local shop.

Labor REPLACE BOTH FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS, 60*3.5(hours)=210
WHEEL BEARINGS, $72*2=144

Only a fool would bring the whole car there to get the wheel bearings replaced.
Jack the car up, put it on stands, take the knuckles off, and bring them over to the shop with the new bearings and seal kit.
It should only be $20 to $30, maybe $40 depending on the shop.

And while you have the knuckles out, it would be easy enough to replace the axles yourself. Just read all the DIY's on this forum.
Obviously it might take a bit longer than it would take a shop, but you'd be gaining valuable experience as well as saving a ton of money

This post has been edited by mkernz22: Nov 24, 2012 - 12:12 PM

[ILoveMySilly97]

Only a fool would bring the whole car there to get the wheel bearings replaced.
Jack the car up, put it on stands, take the knuckles off, and bring them over to the shop with the new bearings and seal kit.
It should only be $20 to $30, maybe $40 depending on the shop.

And while you have the knuckles out, it would be easy enough to replace the axles yourself. Just read all the DIY's on this forum.
Obviously it might take a bit longer than it would take a shop, but you'd be gaining valuable experience as well as saving a ton of money

True that. My silly is my first car ever owned. I try my best to do every maintenance myself so I can learn and have experience. It only takes about an hour to take everything off and another hour to put it back on. I'm a rookie mech btw. Lol.