Brake Light On, Anyone able to decipher? Options

[antonioguy]

My brake light in the car is now staying on constantly. It started flashing as it got colder here in CNY. I don't know if something to do with the cold is triggering it. But the brakes work fine, the fluid level is acceptable, but the light is on 90% of the time now.

Its a '95 7a. Lovely since its a '95 I cant just jack in with my OBDII and figure out the code. Any insight?

[nics]

the brakelight switch under the brake pedal maybe faulty.

[antonioguy]

Was unaware there was a switch under the pedal. I know of the e-brake switch. I'll have to take a look. Could be ice and snow screwed it up.

[mkernz22]

I don't think the brake light would come on for the brake light switch. Check the fluids in your brake master cylinder reservoir. When mine started to get low, it would turn on when I went around corners, but then stayed on.

[antonioguy]

I did check, it seems fine, maybe I'll put a little in anyway it isnt anywhere near max, but it isnt below min. We shall see.

[Galcobar]

The brake fluid level switch can also become faulty. It's a simple float mechanism which breaks continuity when the float is raised. You might want to check that it's working correctly. The procedure is simple enough: disconnect the switch's wiring connector, and use a continuity tester on a multimeter to check that the switch has continuity when the float is down, and no continuity when the float is up. If raising the float does not break continuity, replace the switch assembly.

A similar procedure exists for the parking brake switch. Pushing the pin in should break continuity.

Those should be the only reasons your instrument cluster's brake warning light illuminates if the braking system is in good order. The exterior brake lights depend upon the switch under the brake pedal.

A third, but unlikely possibility, is that the instrument cluster or the wiring harness is damaged. It's unlikely to be the cause as the fault would need to create continuity, which would require two insulated points to somehow be connected.

[trdproven]

for the brake light switch, the switch might be fine, but the stopper may not be fine. it might have broken apart, look to see if the rod/nipple goes through on the pedal, basically it shouldn't the stopper should stop it. you may see broken pieces on your floor mat. seens this happen a million times, im almost sure this is it, especially the way you described it.

This post has been edited by trdproven: Jan 27, 2013 - 6:16 PM

[nics]

missunderstood your post.

if the ebrake light goes on, you might need to top off the brake fluid. This happened to me and that solved it.

[trdproven]

sorry haha he said inside the car, low brake fluid is one but you said the levels are acceptable. try playing with your emergency brake it might be engaged somehow little or a lot or malfunction. something might be wrong with it.

[antonioguy]

Just an update. I did put a bit of fluid in, and turns out that my eye must be alittle bit off. So brake light is off, was the fluid levels. Lol

[tto010]

Just an update. I did put a bit of fluid in, and turns out that my eye must be alittle bit off. So brake light is off, was the fluid levels. Lol

That means you either have a leaky break hose or your pads/disks is getting worn down... might wanna look over it in case of something is not the way it should be.

Edit: but it can also be nothing at all... but better safe then sorry.

This post has been edited by tto010: Jan 30, 2013 - 11:54 AM

[Galcobar]

Indeed -- the brake fluid warning is exactly that, a warning.

Unlike oil or gas, brake fluid is not consumed. You've either lost brake fluid, in which case you have a leak to find, or your pads/shoes have worn down enough that you should check their condition. As the thickness of the wear material falls the piston in the caliper/wheel cylinder has to extend farther, which in turn pulls more brake fluid out of the reservoir and into the system.