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> Strut mount top bolt recommended torque?, New struts, one side is noisy, other side is fine
post Oct 6, 2013 - 7:26 PM
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gen6coupe

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Hi, I just replaced my entire strut assembly on the rear of my 95 ST coupe (strut, lower insulator, bellow/bumper, lowering springs, top mount). Also did sway bar bushing and Moog endlinks. Everything went fine (24" snap-on breaker bar was worth every penny!), minus my rookie mistake of not checking which strut I was using on which side! DOH. It made the other side that much faster cuz i already had the sucker put together and ready to go. wink.gif

ANYWAY. The new struts have made all the difference, the car was not able to be driven before, the ass end bounced all over the place. But Im noticing on the right side I get some noise, almost like metal clanging? when it hits hard. Left side is solid and quiet. What should I check?

The only difference I noticed was my right side top bolt had more threading than the other side. Could this be the cause? Obviously this means I torqued one side more than the other.. could it be the spring being compressed harder and bouncing back harder? I noticed the stock ones the nut was barely on there. This matches more like my left (quiet) side where I have about a half inch of threading through the bolt.


Does anyone know the correct amount of torque to put on this bolt (i have a coupe). Also is it ok to make this adjustment while everything is mounted up? I left the backseat and trunk stripped so its easy to get back in there if needed. Taking it all out would be a pain in the ass though. Right now Im glad its not my DD but I want it to be!

any help is appreciated!

This post has been edited by gen6coupe: Oct 7, 2013 - 2:18 AM
post Oct 7, 2013 - 2:23 PM
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Galcobar

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Spring correctly aligned in the seat? Spring seat insulators correctly aligned with the seat and spring? Strut mount correctly aligned when installed?

I generally suggest torquing the strut rod bolt once the car is back on the ground, to allow you to bounce the suspension a few times to normalize the position and height. If I recall correctly, the strut rod nut only requires 36 ft-lb of force.
post Oct 7, 2013 - 3:33 PM
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gen6coupe

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QUOTE (Galcobar @ Oct 7, 2013 - 3:23 PM) *
Spring correctly aligned in the seat? Spring seat insulators correctly aligned with the seat and spring? Strut mount correctly aligned when installed?

I generally suggest torquing the strut rod bolt once the car is back on the ground, to allow you to bounce the suspension a few times to normalize the position and height. If I recall correctly, the strut rod nut only requires 36 ft-lb of force.



Need to double check spring alignment and how its sitting but from memory they are in there just fine. Strut mount went in fine, all three bolts came through correctly and none taller than the other. No issues fitting the strut mount holes on the knuckle, no different than the other side.

One thing i did notice was the top part of the spring and mount have no real mating area, if its off anywhere it would be there i think. The rear strut mounts have no guide or insulator for the top on the rear, just spring to mount, it must be this thats causing issue.



Thanks for the ideas, looks like ill be getting back under the ol girl wink.gif
post Nov 3, 2013 - 7:26 PM
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rivs

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QUOTE (gen6coupe @ Oct 7, 2013 - 3:33 PM) *
QUOTE (Galcobar @ Oct 7, 2013 - 3:23 PM) *
Spring correctly aligned in the seat? Spring seat insulators correctly aligned with the seat and spring? Strut mount correctly aligned when installed?

I generally suggest torquing the strut rod bolt once the car is back on the ground, to allow you to bounce the suspension a few times to normalize the position and height. If I recall correctly, the strut rod nut only requires 36 ft-lb of force.



Need to double check spring alignment and how its sitting but from memory they are in there just fine. Strut mount went in fine, all three bolts came through correctly and none taller than the other. No issues fitting the strut mount holes on the knuckle, no different than the other side.

One thing i did notice was the top part of the spring and mount have no real mating area, if its off anywhere it would be there i think. The rear strut mounts have no guide or insulator for the top on the rear, just spring to mount, it must be this thats causing issue.



Thanks for the ideas, looks like ill be getting back under the ol girl wink.gif



I just did my ST rear struts not too long ago and I had the same issue. It turns out I was missing a washer like thing on one of the struts. Its like a spacer or something. It was about and inch in height and went on before the center nut. I remember being able to just remove the center nut while it was still installed in the car, add the spacer thing and it was good to go. Not sure if this is the same thing you are experiencing but worth a look.

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