Vert Sub-Assy Bushing Dimensions |
Vert Sub-Assy Bushing Dimensions |
Aug 23, 2015 - 5:58 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 14, '15 From Austin, TX Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
Hey Vert owners,
A lot of you might be familiar with the sub-assy plate that has to be replaced due to these bushings breaking, and due to the age of the 6th gen Celi, and the relative rarity of the vert, these parts are coming harder and harder to come by, and it's impossible to just buy the bushing from Toyota. So I thought it might be good to experiment with 3d printing and CAD, both of which I have access to in school. So, if anyone has an old quarter window sub-assy lying around with good (or even bad) bushings, is there any chance you could provide me with the dimensions for those dreaded little buggers? If all goes well, I'll be making both a plastic and metal printed prototype that I can distribute here for our niche market. And I'll provide the CAD files for free for all the world's 6th gen vert owners to rejoice for year to come. Thanks all, JP |
Aug 24, 2015 - 10:47 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 15, '07 From Tennessee Currently Offline Reputation: 52 (100%) |
cant seem to find my extra plate, will keep looking tomorrow. but i know i have em...
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Aug 26, 2015 - 8:44 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 25, '15 Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
This seems like a great idea. I just got a 98 convertible and it's a bit frustrating finding out some of these parts are so hard or even impossible to replace. Luckily I think my rear windows just need to be adjusted currently and new inner seals but I anticipate needing to replace the bushings at some point. Thanks for trying to make this happen.
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Aug 29, 2015 - 6:21 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 25, '15 Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
I took my right rear quarter panel apart today and found the middle bushing destroyed and another half gone. I have one good one removed which could be used to pro type replacements. I'm thinking of buying the whole assembly from Toyota or online but would love to find an easier or cheaper solution. Let me know if I can help.
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Aug 30, 2015 - 1:09 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 15, '07 From Tennessee Currently Offline Reputation: 52 (100%) |
If you can post pictures with measurements. The extra assemblies ive got are also broken
-------------------- Learned a lot in 10 years... I hardly log in anymore, last login Today Sept 6 2019, and I was forced just to clarify a post. LOL
If you PM me and I dont respond, dont fret or cry. Im alive, better post your questions in the thread below, maybe I log back in 2grfe Swapped... Why I chose the 2GR, before you ask read here... A great civilization is not conquered from without until it has destroyed itself from within. @llamaraxing in Instagram is the best way to find me. I hardly log here anymore. |
Aug 31, 2015 - 10:56 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 14, '15 From Austin, TX Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
Yeah, pics and dimensions would be great. I haven't had the time to take my apart but know my front and idler bushings are both bust on either side. It's a very easy design albeit a bit flawed - the flange or ridge that sits on the window track seems to be where it breaks off for everyone, and I would imagine making a retainer cap for the end of the bushing shaft would at least keep both parts in place if it breaks.
If I can get a diameter of the entire bushing, a radius from the center hole, and a diameter of that center hole, then a measurement of the flanged edge to the flange itself, I can probably mock something up that will fit right on the window track. Alternatively, my uncle recommended looking at sliding window rollers at a hardware store and trying to rig something from that as those bushings have a metal core. |
Sep 1, 2015 - 8:36 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 25, '15 Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
I don't think the metal core bushing would work. I removed my one unbroken bushing and they just snap on over the metal part that is mounted to the sub assembly. The plastic bushing must flex a little bit for this to work otherwise you wouldn't be able to get the new bushing mounted to the sub assembly. The one mount with the motor arm may have a bolt but the other two are this press/snap type fitting.
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Sep 1, 2015 - 4:52 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 14, '15 From Austin, TX Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
I was thinking of making a tight fitting plastic retainer cap that could fit over the shaft though.
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Sep 3, 2015 - 2:52 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 25, '15 Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
The shaft kind of has a ball end and the original bushing snaps over that end and then is free to spin. I'll try and get some photos this weekend when I get my replacement parts installed this weekend.
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Sep 14, 2015 - 10:12 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 14, '15 From Austin, TX Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
Here it is folks. Never let the fabled 69081 or 69082 plate sub-assy bushing trouble you (at least in some capacity) ever again. ~1x1" bushing Using metric for everything else. Note that I didn't use a caliper to measure these and just used a ruler and a laser-enough focus. I'm going to try to make something with these measurements though. A= 8mm (CosaChow is right, it's on a ball joint like shaft. I will probably use a file to try and my prototype to fit) B= 13mm C= 23.6mm D= 4.5mm (thinner end) ~10mm (thicker end/speculative as I was judging this from pictures of a good bushing) E= 2.3mm F = ~16.8mm (speculative) Will update in the future once I make this into CAD and print out some prototypes. But if anyone has tools to create something now, feel free to use these measurements. This post has been edited by JPArdee: Sep 15, 2015 - 12:18 PM |
Sep 15, 2015 - 11:58 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 25, '15 Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
One other thing to mention - there may be a difference in the bushings that snap onto the ball joint type shaft and the single one that has a bolt going through it. When I worked on mine I thought the one with the bolt may have had a larger inner diameter for the bolt and no chamfer.
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