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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Feb 3, '06 From Czech Republic (Europe) Currently Offline Reputation: 56 (100%) ![]() |
At last I had some time for another upgrade. Steering wheel swap... My stock one was 4-spoke with airbag/horn in the middle.
![]() Just history now ![]() ![]() ![]() Although horn mechanism and airbag connector were different everything is working now. And I'll try describe here how generally do that... believe it will be handy for anyone ![]() step no one: remove old steering wheel Two screws on sides (behind small covers) holds airbag part ![]() ![]() There are just two plugs inside. That yellow one is for airbag and white is horn (there is possibility also for cruise multi switch, where are many more wires. Horn wire is black, every time that last on right connected to wheel body) ![]() When you unplug everything + unscrew nut in the middle you should remove wheel with puller (w/o that it's not possible at all) ![]() step two: solving airbag connection ![]() Different airbag connector means find right module (spiral) for it... ![]() ...or use same airbag refill ![]() ![]() ![]() Of course... some customization should be done if airbag refill has different size (more are different, more custom work is needed). My one was just bit different... and airbag part was easy take into parts. ![]() step three: solving horn connection This step depends on type of horn you have. However every time it's about find how horn mechanism works, cut black wire off old wheel and connect it somewhere... It really depends on that horn mechanism. However it's really easy, just one wire to screw... somewhere ![]() step four: piece everything together Installation of new wheel body (with same center bore of course) is easy... ![]() ...and in my case screw horn cable to airbag body (not wheel body like stock one)...and all finished ![]() ![]() This post has been edited by malpaso: Jan 6, 2007 - 4:27 PM -------------------- No more replicas... This is evolution... This is SS-four :)
![]() ________[Featured Celica of 6gc.net @ 2010]_________ |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Jul 2, '08 From SoCal Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) ![]() |
ok, i finished wiring the horn in last weekend, so i'll post up what i did in case any of you guys do an aftermarket wheel like me. i used an NRG steering wheel with an NRG quick release and a SPARCO steering wheel hub. for connectors, i used 2 eyelet connectors and an inline splice connector. the reason i used the inline splice connector was in case i want to put the stock wheel back in, i didn't FUBAR the wiring or stock connector. plus its easy to put in and take off if needed.
![]() ![]() ![]() there were two wires on the quick release and steering wheel horn button, but there was only one wire on the hub. basically i ended up using the one wire from the hub as the positive (signal wire) for the horn, and then i used one of the eyelet connectors on the black wire from the quick release as the ground. i grounded it via one of the screws that attaches the quick release to the hub. there is a metal shim that goes between the quick release and the hub, so you will need to take some cutters and trim out a notch big enough for the connector. ![]() ![]() after you get the quick release or wheel firmly attached to the hub, you'll want to move onto locating the signal wire for the horn at the connecter by the steering column. its the green wire at the end of the connector. an easy way to make sure is to take a short piece of wire, slide one end in the connector which is the contact for the green wire and ground it out. if you have the right wire, the horn will beep. i highly recommend doing this with the key out of the ignition. it will work without the key, and the reason i recommend doing it with the key off is so you don't short to ground a different circuit and fry it. ![]() now you're going to need to make a wire that will go from the green wire to the back of the hub. there is a contact area that you need to touch the signal wire to. the contact is the gold colored ring that allows you to keep contact while the wheel is turning. in order to keep the signal wire contacting the gold ring on the back of the hub, i made a bracket that will constantly touch the gold ring. i made it from a piece of scrap metal i had laying around. it is important to make a smooth curve to the side that will contact the ring, as you don't want to scrape the hell out of the ring, which will lead to wear and a scraping noise. ![]() ![]() the part in between my fingers is the part that touches the gold ring. now you'll want to cut some 16 gauge wire (keep very close to the same size wire as what is at the connector from the steering column) to about 5". on one end you will want to put the second eyelet connector. the end with nothing on it is where you will use the inline splice connector at the green wire. ![]() as for a place to put the bracket i made to contact the gold ring, i am just using the attaching point where the stock clock spring (steering angle sensor) screwed in, and i used the screw from the clock spring as well. sandwich the eyelet connector from the wire and the bracket, then tighten down the screw. ![]() make sure that the curve is directed to make the smoothest path on the gold ring and make sure there is decent tension on the bracket. ![]() don't forget to double check your work through the process and keep checking to see if the horn works through the process. if you keep checking as you go, then the less you have to back track if you make a mistake. it's pretty simple and easy though. |
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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() Joined Jul 15, '08 From Norway Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) ![]() |
Will this swap from f.ex the Celica T23 to T20 actually work if you collide? Have somebody checked this?
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() Joined Oct 4, '07 From Nova Scotia Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
I just swapped a 99 rav4 wheel into my 5th gen (looks like a 98-99 celica 3 spoke). The 5th gen cruise control switch is an analog device as far as I can tell, with 4 wires on it. The Rav4 switch was a 2 wire digital. So I had to reuse my switch. It fits half decent using two of the holes already in the new wheel. Had to make a little bracket out of a peice of metal that I had but that was it. I thought I was going to be able to put the charge from my 5th gen airbag into the new wheel but it's much bigger than a 6th gen airbag like is pictured at the start of this thread, so no go. I could cut and splice the wires but I'm afraid that the trigger system is different so I decided it was safer just to leave the airbag out. I yanked the airbag light from the dash as well as the ABS light which I also have permanently disabled.
All in all it looks pretty good and the 1" smaller wheel makes for much quicker handling. Can't find the card for my camera or I would have taken pictures for all this but if anyone needs to see what I did with the cruise control switch I can get a picture of it. |
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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() Joined Aug 29, '08 From AZ, US Currently Offline Reputation: 21 (100%) ![]() |
GUYS!!.. i want to share a very very important information with you guys that i just discovered just now!!.. i can confirm this.. coz its working on my car now.. for all you guys that have the gen7 steering wheel n want the cruise control to work with your current clock spring.. instead of splicing n stuff.. you can get the newer version cruise control lever from a 98' or a 99' and its plug and play!!.. i got it to work.. i'm SO SO SO SO HAPPPPYYYYY... SO YUP.. will take some picts to prove my point!!..
FINALLYYY.. BOWAHAHAHAHHHAHAHAHAA.. ![]() This post has been edited by shegarhuney: Jan 18, 2010 - 5:35 PM |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() Joined Jul 3, '09 From UT Currently Offline Reputation: 14 (100%) ![]() |
I swapped a GT4 wheel w/out an airbag into my 6gc and it worked great, but decided that id rather have an airbag for safety and emissions. I put it all back together and my light wont go off. Any reset procedures or problems i may have caused? I plugged in all the harnesses and got the clock spring lined up in the center.
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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() Joined Jul 15, '08 From Norway Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) ![]() |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Feb 7, '07 From Portland, Oregon Currently Offline Reputation: 67 (96%) ![]() |
this should be stickied!
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Enthusiast ![]() Joined Jan 5, '09 From Kent, United Kingdom Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
Have a Gen 7 wheel in my Gen 6 SSIII and was easy to swap, just plug and play with horn and airbag.
![]() -------------------- 1996 Green JDM GT4
1998 White JDM SSIII 1994 Black JDM Supra Aerotop 1994 Black JDM GT4 1999 Black UKDM SR 1996 Black UKDM ST |
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![]() Enthusiast Joined Nov 27, '05 From Vienna, Austria Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
Thanks to malpaso who redirected me to this thread from the gtfour.ch forums to find out how to mount my Lexus IS200/Toyota ST205 JDM hybrid wheel to my ST205.
My problem is just the different airbag connector. I'll use the Lexus wheel because it's leather and the airbag from the JDM ST205 wheel because of the Toyota Logo. I have a Rav 4 airbag here two I got from a Lexus guy who wanted the Airbag, also because of the logo, so we swapped. The airbag from the JDM wheel has two brown wires, the one from the Rav 4 wheel a black an a red one, both have the small connector. If I cut the wires and mount the big connector from my '96 4-spoke wheel to one of the airbags, how do I find out which way it should be connected? -------------------- cya, abraxxa
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Feb 3, '06 From Czech Republic (Europe) Currently Offline Reputation: 56 (100%) ![]() |
... The airbag from the JDM wheel has two brown wires, the one from the Rav 4 wheel a black an a red one, both have the small connector. If I cut the wires and mount the big connector from my '96 4-spoke wheel to one of the airbags, how do I find out which way it should be connected? See this topic made by Michelle. Answer is there ![]() -------------------- No more replicas... This is evolution... This is SS-four :)
![]() ________[Featured Celica of 6gc.net @ 2010]_________ |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Jun 13, '05 From Poughkeepsie, NY Currently Offline Reputation: 2 (100%) ![]() |
Does the RHD JDM st205 wheel have an air bag? and if so, is it as "direct" of a swap as all these others?
edit: even if it doesnt have an airbag, how easy of a swap would it be? This post has been edited by devilsden97: Jan 16, 2010 - 12:25 PM -------------------- ![]() Kawi Love |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Feb 7, '07 From Portland, Oregon Currently Offline Reputation: 67 (96%) ![]() |
... The airbag from the JDM wheel has two brown wires, the one from the Rav 4 wheel a black an a red one, both have the small connector. If I cut the wires and mount the big connector from my '96 4-spoke wheel to one of the airbags, how do I find out which way it should be connected? See this topic made by Michelle. Answer is there ![]() Black is ground, red is power. If the two wires coming off the wheel itself are both brown, you will need to use a multimeter to see which is which. Does the RHD JDM st205 wheel have an air bag? and if so, is it as "direct" of a swap as all these others? edit: even if it doesnt have an airbag, how easy of a swap would it be? RHD vs LHD shouldn't matter where the steering wheel is concerned, since it's a circle ![]() As for the directness of the swap, shouldn't be any more direct or less direct a swap than any other wheel discussed here. The wheel will swap right over, the airbag either will plug right in or it won't and you'll have to splice it in. No biggie. -------------------- ![]() |
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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() Joined Aug 29, '08 From AZ, US Currently Offline Reputation: 21 (100%) ![]() |
no more fuss.. the missing link ladies n gentlemen..
you don't need to splice any wires just buy this adapter
have to order from here not your dealer .. http://toyota.spx.com/detail.aspx?id=407&p=173&g=21 ![]() This post has been edited by shegarhuney: Jan 18, 2010 - 5:37 PM |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Feb 7, '07 From Portland, Oregon Currently Offline Reputation: 67 (96%) ![]() |
Since this thread is pretty much the most thorough how-to-swap-your-steering wheel, I'd love to see it completed with information on how to splice in the 7th gen cruise stalk for those of us not lucky enough to get a 98-99 or whatever it was that's plug-n-play.
As a side note, in the interest of consolidating info, here is how to clear the airbag code, as per the BGB for a '95 USDM Celica QUOTE CLEARING CODES
1) At DLC, connect a jumper wire to terminal Tc. See Figs. 11 and 12. Connect another jumper wire to terminal AB. Turn ignition switch to ACC or ON position. Wait about 6 seconds. 2) Starting with terminal Tc, apply body ground alternately to terminal Tc and terminal AB twice each, in cycles of 1/2 to 1 1/2 seconds (sequence is: Tc, AB, Tc, AB). Finally, keep applying body ground to terminal Tc until air bag warning light flashes quickly, indicating codes are cleared. NOTE: When alternately connecting jumper probes to terminals, simultaneously release one probe from one terminal while connecting other probe to other terminal. If time interval between probings exceeds 0.2 second, codes will not clear. -------------------- ![]() |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Feb 3, '06 From Czech Republic (Europe) Currently Offline Reputation: 56 (100%) ![]() |
OMG... I really didn't know what my now 3 years old topic can make
![]() ![]() -------------------- No more replicas... This is evolution... This is SS-four :)
![]() ________[Featured Celica of 6gc.net @ 2010]_________ |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Feb 7, '07 From Portland, Oregon Currently Offline Reputation: 67 (96%) ![]() |
Now, back to that cruise stalk swap! I'm clearly electrically challenged, so the odds of me figuring this out any time soon are slim. Help? BAAAAAAATMAAAAAN!
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Mar 8, '04 From Newport, RI Currently Offline Reputation: 63 (99%) ![]() |
I just looked over my notes, it's not super clear.
From the 6gen connector from the clockspring there's 3 wires red white white w/black stripe right ? (and the black horn) 7 gen to 6 gen red to red black (cut) to white white to white w/black that all I got, I took them both apart and saw the diff, check itr out ![]() good luck -------------------- |
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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() Joined Aug 29, '08 From AZ, US Currently Offline Reputation: 21 (100%) ![]() |
hehe..
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![]() Enthusiast Joined Nov 27, '05 From Vienna, Austria Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
Good to see that the adapter fits!
I'm still waiting for mine to arrive, one to three weeks. ![]() -------------------- cya, abraxxa
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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Nov 22, '04 From FL Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) ![]() |
malpaso. I understand that you need a puller to remove the column to completely remove wheel but would I be able to take the wheel, unscrew that center piller and somehow rotate my steering wheel 180 degrees without removing it? 2 years back when I had engine swap they mounted my steering wheel upside down. I was wondering if I could pull this off without a puller.
Thank you sir -------------------- Captain Pessimist
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