I Swapped 3s-ge Redtop Into 97 Limited Edition Vert., Pictures are restored, many more added 5/24/11 Options

[njccmd2002]

5/24/11 this thread was edited, with updated pics and added extra information for those beams swappers!!!!

anything you see in red, its very important to pay notice to, it will save you money in the long run...


Also this is not the bible of the Beams swap, others have attempted this swap and have good experience with it. No this swap is not going to give you 600 hp


GOOD LUCK!!!


Ok, before anyone asks, it wont go in until December, how much i paid, plenty bucks...

I will keep my fingers crossed until then, cuz i wont have warranty, but its supposed to be low mileage engine between 20 - 35 k miles. Seller forgot to ship the ecu, but will ship it on monday..

i have a question for Turnip and 2bcelica batman or rusty. I have a couple of cables that need ID

With any swap make sure you are getting what you are buying, ask for pictures to the seller, you dont understand how important this is because, you will be misled into buying crap!!!!





that little thing you see there is the vvti sensor, this is the most common broken sensor and its expensive, about 300 usd...





See how clean the engine looks from inside, this attests to the low mileage claim, well most of the time



Another big issue, as this is missing the OEM box and the MAF, two items very important to keep the air flow regulated.



This next picture and the previous one, shows something important, the Bpipe, your swap must have one, or make it from scratch, good thing to also get the axles, you see, mine were cut, although you can use the 5sfe axles, the beams axles are beefier.











The OEM fuse box, very important because you want that EA1 plug intact!!!



And please, the most important, GET THE ECU, they forgot to send mine.




the first one, is this cable located at the exit of the TPS sensor i asume, its three cables black red and white.



on the harness this one is located here kind of goes to the back, dunno


the other one, is another cable that goes parallel to the AFM sensor, its cut so dont know what it is, it looks like another set of 3 cables... this one goes to the front...




of course cut under the fuse bay harness, but i assume this are for foglights and headlights.



Unknown sensor, but i have a plug that fits, and is not one of the any ones that have been cut. located on the intake, so must be some sort of vacuum sensor



an extra vvti solenoid, cuz the original is broken.... hope its not a pain to replace this bastard...



I got the B pipe, but the flex section, is very flexy, as i remember my 5sfe one was a little stiffy. so i dunno.

All you beams swappers are welcome to put your input...

This post has been edited by njccmd2002: May 26, 2011 - 2:22 AM

[Batman722]

the SRS wire is PIN 4 on II1 (light grey harness) the blue wire. That gets power from the SRS fuse in the bay and on your 97 it goes to the light on the cluster.

On the USDM white plug (II2) pin 14 brown and pin 16 white go to your OBDII connector. Brown is ground labeled SG and the white goes to the SDL pin from the DLC to the USDM ECU.
Pin 9 violet is for the ABS
Pin 15 is a shielded ground, also for the OBDII DLC, just grounded.

The beams dark grey plug has a yellow, brown, gray and white/blue wire that are extra and missing the blue/white..

The wires go to the OBDII connector for the beams = pin 7 yellow is SIL, pin 8 blue/white eventually goes to TC, pin 9 grey goes to TAC. (page 3 -7 in the beams manual, top of the page)

and some pics

USDM DLC

opps, posted wrong pic...I posted the 7a DLC, not the 5s DLC...I'll get that up later.

Beams DLC



If you try to hook up your OBDII connector it's important to get the wires in the right pins. The USMD OBDII DLC uses pins 2,4,5, and 16. The Beams uses 4,7,9,13, and 16. I don't know if a USDM scanner will read the jap signals...

This post has been edited by Batman722: Jan 28, 2010 - 9:19 PM

[Batman722]

basically, if you aren't gonna tackle the OBDII DLC, those wires are meaningless. To have the car start properly, run and drive just fine, just forget those. They seem like more of a hassle than what their worth.

[njccmd2002]

gotcha, well thanks, i was just a little hesitant, cuz im a noob. Well this will help other members to swap their beams withe less hassle..


You are sir, a definite great ASSET to the community

[njccmd2002]

well the engine bay is clean, the wiring is 90% done, but all said and done, i broke plugs!!!!

So off we go to order more parts.....

oh, also download this its a plug identifier

http://www.jzs147.com.au/documents/toyota%20plugs.pdf


http://www.evsource.com/tls_connectors.php

This post has been edited by njccmd2002: May 26, 2011 - 1:38 AM

[Rusty]

got a question about the injector plugs/connectors are they the same as gen3 3sge ie (1 & 4 red red/brown and 2 & 3 are white)

well done on getting the engine bay cleaned, so apart those plugs any others left to do? also have you got around to fixing those water lines or is that next?

[njccmd2002]

more weather problems...

























JK, TADA









a one man job, PITA to get off the crate...





This post has been edited by njccmd2002: May 26, 2011 - 1:43 AM

[EKAn]

Impressive! especially since your doing it alone, your defiantly an inspiration

[SwissFerdi]

Holy crap man! Nice. You are making crazy progress for doing it alone. Billions of props to you man.

[Rusty]

nice congrates, almost finished

lol wow thats an interesting tool (the saw) require for an engine swap

so wiring it in now?

This post has been edited by Rusty: Feb 9, 2010 - 2:00 AM

[njccmd2002]

Yeah wiring, axles, exhaust, heater core, I may try to start engine without the radiator to see if it even starts.



Oh, I need to do regular maint, oil, thermostat, tranny oil, and this is without timing belt change or clutch. Engine itself is only 35 k.

So I will risk to start. Oh and not to mention I will have to see about hybrid axles.

Won't wire it until I get those plugs.

[Batman722]

Congrats !

don't try to start it without the radiator, or any other fluids for that matter, be safe, it's a big investment. Just take your time and get everything together.
It would of been a bit easier to put the harness on the engine before you put it in the bay.

again congtrats !

[BonzaiCelica]

what! hybrid axles?? what are you talking about?

I remember somebody saying something about that a while back ago. Is it due to ss suspension on the SS-III

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Feb 9, 2010 - 2:58 PM

[njccmd2002]

nope, i will use the inners from the beams and outers from my s54. The inners look more beefy. my swap did not come with complete axles.


will try to get the radiator set up then..

[njccmd2002]

almost getting most of parts and waiting for good weather,

the interesting thing i found today is that the inner left half shaft for a 3sge beams is part

4304032010

for 1sttoyotaparts is Inner cv joint, celica, w/o turbo, gt-s, left 1986 - 1989, hmm interesting..

the inner right half shaft is 4303032010

Inner cv joint, celica, w/o turbo, gt-s, right, manual trans 1986 - 1989

but i could not find the outers.

I like to have the beams axles for my swap. but the axles were cut,

I was thinking i can do beams inners, and GT outers. (hybrid)

Wat u tink?

Or maybe look into some outers like some have done with the e153 tranny. Just thinking of building better axles.

[richee3]

It seems like I read somewhere that the GT axles could take up to around 300 ft. lbs. of torque, but I could be mistaken. Better safe than sorry, so I say carry on with the BEAMS axles if possible.

You are making excellent progress with this. You aren't that far from me. One of these days, I will have to make the short drive to Tennessee to see this in person!

[njccmd2002]

Sure, but when its not a paperweight anymore

changed the thermostat, thermostat housing actually aluminum, and not plastic!



baby steps, now for some bling....

Sandblasted exhaust header, awaiting ceramic paint.



Radiator and hoses installed...



shiny new Azz, JDM baby!!!! Kakimoto!!!



some setbacks..

vaccum sensor in the way of the brake reservoir..



but not that difficult to fix

oh almost forgot, i had a brand new rear mount





and cleaned the crossmember.



This post has been edited by njccmd2002: May 26, 2011 - 1:48 AM

[njccmd2002]

wow, how long has it been, had not worked much until yesterday and today, here is an update.

To fix the heater core i had to get the dash out, and i had to disconnect a whole bunch of crap.
























I will risk the heater core pipe, i was able to fix it, and I installed a new heater core,







also the whole dash is almost back in, the wiring is 90% done.

rust prevention was done for the dash metal mount.

Installed new grounds, also had to make a custom cpu mount,







as i extended the wires, the harness comes where it should come... haha, what a perfectionist..


only problem is this piece of bastard crap, fuel filter. it was a fuc... PITA to get the old filter out, and the new one wont go in, hope the thread is till good.



Whats missing,

The speedometer, the axles, the exhaust and a little bit of wiring.... Of course the fuel filter....

Time is a COMING<

This post has been edited by njccmd2002: May 26, 2011 - 2:00 AM

[SwissFerdi]

Good for you man.

[Rusty]

looking good

quick question about those red lines/hoses, will they always be there? since they stand out a bit.

[njccmd2002]

they are my custom made ground kit, for 10 bucks. refused to pay 70 for a ground kit.

You dont like it?

A couple of wiring touches here and there..



This post has been edited by njccmd2002: May 26, 2011 - 2:02 AM