Enders swap, Update 11/29/19 Options

[enderswift]

I'm ready

This post has been edited by enderswift: Nov 29, 2019 - 6:58 PM

[beams78]

nice engine hoist now put it to work lol

[enderswift]

nice engine hoist now put it to work lol

Soon. I take delivery next week

This post has been edited by enderswift: Aug 12, 2011 - 6:53 PM

[cheela]

I can sense the epicness already

[delusionz]

must be a late model 96 or 97, mines 205-0011162

[azian_advanced]

that's a close guess. it's a january 97 production model.

I can sense the epicness already

x2 i love these 3sgte progress threads.

[str8thugginit4ya]

In curiosity, is that the clip they were selling on Ebay? With the rear diff & everything?



-Ryan

[enderswift]

Hey everyone,

today was the big day. I finally took delivery of my st205 front clip. I am beyond happy at the moment as this is the culmination of four years of buying tools, working hard, and saving money. During that time I had to live out my love for cars vicariously through the many awesome 6gc threads and through all the projects my friends took on. But now its my turn

Before I go on I want to give credit where its due and tell everyone about my experience with JDMengineworld http://jdmengineworld.com/. This shop is based in New York and has been open since February. I was originally nervous about the fact that these guys were so new and their lack of forum feedback. However after buying this clip I have nothing but good things to say. Everyone I spoke with was courteous and professional and more than accommodated my requests. I asked for compression test videos and got them in 45 min. I asked for specific photos numerous times and received them right away; which is saying a lot considering they have to pull the clip off the shelves each time. My calls were always returned, all of my questions were answered, and they put up with my nit picking when other places (osaka) started to get annoyed. These traits made them stand apart from the other importers and were what ultimately motivated me to take the risk and go with an unknown shop. So as far as customer service is concerned, they are top notch. But that's not all, my clip was very well packaged, arrived in 3 days, and was just as they described. It even came with bonus jdm tails

So if anyone else is looking to buy stuff, then call them up and ask for Jack.

And now the pictures:


I was standing there just waiting for the clip to fall off haha.



I didn't post any unpacking photos, but everything was stacked and packed with care. Quality stuff

I am absolutely amazed at the condition of this engine, you really cant tell its 13 years old

I love the gt4 bumper, and I cant wait until next summer to get it all painted and installed



The hood needs a little attention from when it was damaged in Japan, but its all small stuff so I'm not worried.

Finally, my project begins...

[enderswift]

I'm planning on breaking this project down into phases so as to avoid rushing anything. I want to do this swap properly, and that means taking my time. So between finishing up my engineering degree, and my job, I expect the first phase to take about a year.

Phase 1. Pull motor, rebuild it completely, and swap into my celi with the s54

Phase 2. convert the e154f to fwd with a Quaife ATB LSD, prepare superstrut for for LHD, swap into car

Phase 3. Convert e154f back to awd and weld-in the rest of the drivetrain.

I cant wait.

This post has been edited by enderswift: Sep 12, 2012 - 10:05 PM

[beams78]

awesome clip dude that thing looks like its been babied for all its life ill keep that shop in mind when the time comes for me to do a swap on mine out of curiosity how much did this cost anyway?


This post has been edited by beams78: Aug 17, 2011 - 1:38 AM

[BonzaiCelica]

NICE. The Superstrut Suspension will help reduce torque steer and wheel hop. You'll definitely need it with that massive increase of torque you'll get from the swap. your going to use that heavy transmission that came with the engine!?? I heard that things weighs twice as much as the s54.

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Aug 17, 2011 - 1:58 AM

[enderswift]

NICE. The Superstrut Suspension will help reduce torque steer and wheel hop. You'll definitely need it with that massive increase of torque you'll get from the swap. your going to use that heavy transmission that came with the engine!?? I heard that things weighs twice as much as the s54.

Well, I think the weight difference is made up for by the longer gear ratios and added strength. Plus I want to take on the challenge of converting the transmission. If it works then I'll put together a comprehensive thread detailing the process. If it doesn't work then I really wont lose anything.

Got the clip started!


Spent a good amount of time last night tracing and tagging all of the fuel and brake lines on the clip. Then I spent today taking apart the rear seats to reach the fuel pump. I had to do some investigating with the multimeter, but I eventually identified the power wires and confirmed their polarity. After that I attached fuel hoses to the pump and ran them to the corresponding lines on the clip. Next I wired the fuel pump directly to the battery and fired the beast up. Observe:

http://s74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/sub...=Firststart.mp4


It started like a champ, and I was amazed to find no engine codes. The whole point of this was to make sure that all the electronics were functioning. The startup confirmed that, and I was happy. Next step was to run proper compression test on a warmed up engine. So I let it run for 15 minutes before testing out my bonus turbo timer. Long story short I found 164 psi across all cylinders, which is simply perfect.

At this point my buddy asked me why I was even bothering to rebuild the engine at all, and I could see his confusion. My reasoning was that good compression numbers aren't everything; even a leak down wont tell you the whole story. For all I know this engine could be an oil burner that was beat on its whole life. Furthermore its going on 13 years old. I'd rather tear it down and start with a clean slate.

Plus rebuilding is fun

so the next order of business is to label EVERYTHING before taking various parts off and cataloging them. I plan to make a very detailed log of all the parts with pictures, notes, and hand drawn diagrams. I also have a million boxes from work just to keep everything labeled and organized. That way I wont get lost when I try to put this thing back together. Organization is key with a project like this.

anyway, tell me what you guys think and stand by for the next update

This post has been edited by enderswift: Sep 10, 2014 - 7:07 AM

[jordisonjr]

You sound super organized.
What do we think?
I think you should swap my car when you're done

[rave2n]

Sexy clip you have there.

Eager to see progress!

[Batman722]

looks like you're doing things right

nice job !

[mkernz22]

Wow, that thing really does look babied! Even the body panels are almost mint! I think I know where to go when I want to do my swap after college haha
If you don't mind me asking, how much did it cost in total with shipping? You can PM me if you don't feel like posting on here.

[4-eyed-freek]

awsome!!!!

[enderswift]

Wow, that thing really does look babied! Even the body panels are almost mint! I think I know where to go when I want to do my swap after college haha
If you don't mind me asking, how much did it cost in total with shipping? You can PM me if you don't feel like posting on here.

I paid $3500 for the clip and $750 for shipping to Chicago from New York with a quality shipping company. I'm pretty happy with that price point

This post has been edited by enderswift: Aug 18, 2011 - 12:44 PM

[mkernz22]

That is a really good deal man!

[Stambo]

did i finally give you some motivation!?

[enderswift]

did i finally give you some motivation!?

motivation was always there. Money wasn't haha. Though seeing your gt4 front end in real life definitely strengthened my resolve

[enderswift]

Hey everyone,

I finally started tearing the clip down after a couple of days of organizing things in my garage, removing bulky parts, prepping rusty parts for storage, and building a catalog.

Its a slow and methodical process because I'm labeling and documenting every single thing I can. I work by singling out a particular system and removing everything associated with it. So in the case of the intake assembly, I took photos of the whole area before taking anything apart. Then I labeled every single hose/sensor/vac on the intake side and engine side. After that I started to take things out, with the ultimate goal of keeping as many parts together as possible before placing them into a box for storage. I also take videos of stuff that goes together in a strange way, or if there is something that would need some explanation to properly document.

AFTER ALL THAT,

I sit down and upload the photos and videos into my swap folder where I have everything organized by system.

THEN

I draw diagrams detailing some of the quirks and of the dissasembly, such as which relay box controls which radiator fan etc.

This is slow, but I wouldn't have it any other way. Right now my goal is to remove everything that would get in the way of pulling the motor, and so far I've removed the intake assembly, the radiator assembly, and the entire intercooler loop. Today I want to remove the brake master/booster, and a few other things on the left side of the bay. That should leave me with plenty of room to pull the motor.

anyway, here are some progress photos (because updates suck without at least some kind of picture):


The engine is much roomier now that alot of the bulky stuff is out of the way. My turbo has virtually no shaft play btw


These are some of the diagrams I'm preparing. I know they're gonna be a big help when it comes to assembly everything.


here are some of the assemblies I've removed so far. I have yet to find boxes for them, but eventually they're going to be boxed, labeled and stacked on one side of the garage. Space is a really precious commodity around here.

This post has been edited by enderswift: Nov 5, 2012 - 9:05 PM

[enderswift]

whoa finally,

It took a while but I worked my way through the clip and pulled the motor.

WOW superstrut was an absolute pain to take apart. Unlike mcpherson, you cant just disconnect the tie rods and pull the axles through. You actually have to take off the hub. This wouldn't be so bad if it weren't for the upper balljoints. There is no room for a puller because the axle is in the way, so you basically have to wedge a breaker bar against the castle nut and go to town on the strut with a hammer. The combination of the upward pressure from the bar, and strikes from the hammer cause the ball joint to pop out.

In theory.

I went through all kinds of madness before the above method worked. For those doing this in the future, save yourselves some time and go straight for a 4lb hammer or bigger, don't waste time with a dinky little hammer like i did.

anyway, once the axles were out the engine was ready to be pulled. I decided to go avoid risking damage to the engine and simply cut the front of the clip off. This way I could just slide the motor right out. It went well and everything came out unscathed. The only downside to this is that I didn't get the experience of removing the engine from an intact bay, but i guess i wouldn't want to try that without a load level anyway.

Right now the engine is sitting on a pallet in my garage. I'm waiting until next Saturday to separate the trans and mount the motor on its stand. From there its going to be a slow methodical rebuild until spring. I'll try to put together a decent tear down thread for those looking for a step by step but I cant promise anything. I'm taking 19 credit hours of engineering so I'll be really strapped for time. All I know is that its surreal to actually be doing the swap that I've been reading about for four years now, its just a ton of fun. Anyway, here are some pictures:













This post has been edited by enderswift: Nov 17, 2012 - 7:20 PM

[bloodMoney]

Looks like you're making good progress Luke! Keep it up.

[purplegt4]

Removing that transmission is fun.

snack sized ziploc bags and a retractable sharpie are very helpful to collect nuts/bolts/screws.

[richee3]

I was hoping to see this car boosted before the meet. But there's always next year! Sounds like you're doing this swap right. Keep us posted. I expect this thread to scare 56k members away.

[enderswift]

Hey 6gc,

its been a while but there has been a lot of progress. I separated the transmission and placed it on its own pallet in the corner till the time comes for it to be converted to fwd. I also mounted the engine on its stand and continued labeling, photographing, and storing. As of right now the engine only has the turbo assembly and power steering pump on it. But unfortunately I'm not going to continue the disassembly for a little while since I have to turn my attention to the rest of the clip. I still need to pull out the superstrut, dash, and shifter cables. As soon as that happens I'm either going to chop up the frame or give it to my buddy so he can turn it into a giant grill ( I didn't ask for specifics haha).

if anyone wants to buy a rhd dash and firewall let me know!

anyway, here are some more current photos:



Here is my super heavy bench weight. It was tough to get this thing off of the block on my own but I managed in the end. Did anyone else forget that one hidden bolt behind the center housing?



My flywheel speaks volumes about how this car was treated in the past (bad). You can't tell in the photo, but there are blue spots all over this thing from what I can only assume to be massive clutch dumps. Things like this only reinforce my decision to rebuild this engine.



I finally got the harness off of the engine. I've been debating on whether or not I should put together a thread with a picture and description of each plug. I think it would be helpful to those who buy an engine set instead of a clip. Let me know if you guys would want something like that.



The flywheel isn't the only part telling stories. This is one filthy manifold.



I cant even imagine whats waiting for me under the valve cover, but if its anything like what I can see through the oil fill, then I have a lot of work ahead of me.



Intake valves look good though



This is a photo of the engine at the moment. I got stuck taking off the manifold and turbo and I have to think of a clever order. This thing is like a puzzle. You guys would not believe how heavily built (and braced) the stock downpipe is. I wouldn't be surprised if I saved 20 lbs by switching to an aftermarket pipe.



and heres a picture of my cramped working conditions. Its even tighter when I have the kawi in the garage O.O



The parts boxes just keep multiplying.

This post has been edited by enderswift: Jan 14, 2013 - 7:03 PM

[purplegt4]

You guys would not believe how heavily built (and braced) the stock downpipe is. I wouldn't be surprised if I saved 20 lbs by switching to an aftermarket pipe.

I think it's a catalytic converter. Not only weight savings, also better flow!

[bloodMoney]

Are you going to be doing anything with that steering wheel Luke? If its in good shape, I could use a replacement....

[enderswift]

I was looking to pull the whole dash and sell it for parts. So its for sale if you want it. Its leather wrapped and in good shape.

[enderswift]

well, got some more work done today. The superstrut is completely out and on the pallet. I was surprised at how easy it was to drop everything, just a few bolts and the subframe lowered without problems. I took the time to measure the lock to lock rack travel and found it to be 4.75 inches. This means all I have to do to swap over to superstrut is find a set of rims with the right offset.

I'm not going to make it that easy on myself though, I have access to a sand blaster at school so I plan to strip all of the factory paint and coat everything with a layer of por 15. should be fun.

Aside from pulling the superstrut, I also took off the valve cover to see how bad sludge is.

here are the photos:


I need to transfer over my st204 steering rack and this guy will be ready to bolt in.




couple hundred pounds of gt4 goodness right there. Gotta love it.


This is a terrible photo if you're talking about sludge, but I thought it looked cool. Anyway it looks like this engine wasn't maintained too regularly. Its not the worst I've seen, but I'm sure they stretched the oil change intervals. Another reason to rebuild this motor


So this was the last thing I had to remove from my clip. I am officially done with that part of this project and can now focus on actually rebuilding the engine I plan to do the rebuild in two steps to keep myself from getting overwhelmed with scattered parts. Step one is going to consist of a complete rebuild of the head where I will do all of the measuring to decide what machining is required. I don't trust shops to tell me what is out of tolerance. Step two will see the bottom end rebuilt with oem bits and some arp goodness.



This post has been edited by enderswift: Sep 10, 2014 - 7:17 AM

[richee3]

It's coming along great, Luke! My only question is why convert the E154F to FWD when you could get a lighter E153 or even recycle your S54? I'm sure you stated your reason why earlier in the thread but I missed it.

[mkernz22]

It's coming along great, Luke! My only question is why convert the E154F to FWD when you could get a lighter E153 or even recycle your S54? I'm sure you stated your reason why earlier in the thread but I missed it.

Just from seeing the pictures and whatnot, I believe he's using the E154F because he can use the GT4 axles since he will be swapping the whole subframe out. The S54 is probably too short, gearing wise, for what he wants to do, and with the E153, he has to mix and match the axles with the mr2 and st185. It also seems like he would save some money in the end, but that's how I see it

[enderswift]

You're both close.

By removing the center section of the e154f I'm effectively turning it into an e153, only with gt4 specific gear ratios and triple cone synchros on 2nd and 3rd. The weight difference between an actual e153 would be minimal. I don't want to stick with the s54 because it has shorter ratios and an open diff. Furthermore it would be just as much work trying to upgrade the s54 as it would be to convert the e154f. I know I could buy a used transmission that has a factory LSD, but I really do not like viscous differentials. Helical all the way

Besides converting the e154 isn't some impossible feat. It's alot of work, requiring a press and some specialty tools, but not difficult. Like everything organization is key. A basic rundown of the process involves removing the center section and covering the opening with the plate from an e153 (get the mount too). Then pull the transmission apart to replace the differential with either an mr2 viscous or an aftermarket like the quaife I want (might as well replace any worn synchros and bearings too).The reason for replacing the diff comes from the fact that the current diff is splined to accept the shaft from the center housing, not an axle.

Axles are going to be a pain no matter what route I take. GT4 axles are equal length so removing the center housing from the e154f means the passanger side axle needs to be longer.And I still need to find out whether or not gt4 axles are splined properly to fit into the quaife lsd. If not, I'm going to have to get creative.

I think I can make a working axle by using the transmission side housings from an mr2 turbo and keep the wheelside housings from the gt4 (since those fit the superstrut hubs). Then the challenge would be to find a halfshaft that is the correct length and of the correct spline to accept the corresponding inner race's. Worst case scenerio I'll have to get custom halfshafts made. I'm confident I'll find a solution

This post has been edited by enderswift: Sep 10, 2014 - 7:18 AM

[enderswift]

Hey 6gc,

long time no update. I've been busy with school and that means no time to work on the 3s, or make money for that matter. I expect things to pick up during winter break though. Till then I'm gonna have to be happy with slowly taking the motor apart and taking care of the tedious parts of this project.

anyway, current plans for the head involve a complete disassembly and tolerancing. I plan to check all of the specs and determine exactly what kind machining is required, and what parts have to be replaced. I plan to get the following done regardless of the condition of the head:

-ultrasonic cleaning http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XWs_8RyBLyo (hopefully someplace local offers it)
-3 angle valve job
-head deck

Then, depending on the condition of the head I may also pay for this stuff:

-Valve guide replacement
-Misc parts replacement

If theres one place to be OCD in a rebuild its in the head. Here are some photos


I spent a lot of time thinking about how I'm going to keep everything safe and organized while I gather the funds for the master rebuild set and machine shop. I eventually came up with what you see here, its not complete haha. I promise its more elaborate than this




I had a hard time with the belt tensioner since the fsm wasn't too clear on how to position the #1 idler pulley. They tell you to torque the pulley bolt to 61ft/lbs and to position the pulley in order to slip a 3 mm allen into the head. Thereby removing slack from the belt... not too detailed imo. I would appreciate it if someone could explain the proper procedure. I eventually ended up bracing the pulley with rubber before cutting the timing belt. It prevented the tensioner from extending violently at least.


I also had some trouble removing the camshafts. The caps near the timing belt pulleys wouldn't separate from the head as I was loosening their fasteners. This resulted in the camshafts going crooked during removal. A few strikes with a rubber mallet freed them up, but I wish I caught that sooner. I don't think I damaged the head but its just annoying when you're taking care to do everything the right way.


I was planning on taking the valves out right away, but my valve spring compressor doesn't go deep enough into the head. I'm going to have to borrow one from one of my buddies in the sae.



I was surprised to see that the cylinders and pistons are all in great shape. You can still see the factory crosshatch on the walls

Well thats it for this week. Hopefully next week will see me removing and measuring the valvetrain. After that I'll be checking out some of the shops people have been recommending to me. Stay tuned.

This post has been edited by enderswift: Dec 22, 2012 - 9:52 AM

[BonzaiCelica]

what do you mean I need to transfer over my st204 steering rack and this guy will be ready to bolt in. Rack and Pinion from all 94-99 celica's regardless of the model are the same.... only difference is the tie rods from superstrut models.

[enderswift]

what do you mean I need to transfer over my st204 steering rack and this guy will be ready to bolt in. Rack and Pinion from all 94-99 celica's regardless of the model are the same.... only difference is the tie rods from superstrut models.

You're forgetting that this clip was rhd while my celi is lhd, so I have to swap over the steering rack. There was a thread debating on whether or not the st204 steering rack can be used with the superstrut suspension. Some were saying that st204 steering racks had a larger lateral travel than the st205 steering rack, and that this would over extend several of the parts on superstrut at full lock.

I went and measured the travel of both racks and it came out to be ~4.75 inches. Therefore I can just bolt the st204 steering rack from my gt onto the st205 subframe without worrying about hurting the superstrut during full lock turns. The only thing I'll have to worry about is replacing the tie rods with the bowed out st205 parts. Also, the reason I'm using the st205 subframe is because it has no rust compared to my gt subframe.

This post has been edited by enderswift: Dec 22, 2012 - 9:55 AM

[enderswift]

Hey 6gc,

I've made some good progress today Nothing major, but every little bit gets me THAT much closer to slamming into a median at 17 psi. The majority of the work was in head disassembly, which I'm thankful to have finally finished. I had a tough time sourcing a proper valve spring compressor, and actually spent the last two weeks researching all the different styles. I tried buying one at specialty stores, modifying one from work, and borrowing some kits from friends. Unfortunately every time I found a compressor or adapter it was always just short of what I needed. I considered buying online but the shipping would have taken too long and this saturday would have been wasted. So, I made my own. Its a very crude, very primitive chunk of steel. I'm almost embarrassed to show it since my welding skills are still pretty inadequate, But hey it did the job beautifully and allowed me to move forward. Its basically a 17 mm socket with a portion of the wall cut out, and some handles welded on one end. I would compress the retainers while my brother removed the keepers with one of those awesome extendable magnets. Although my custom tools worked, I will be using this in the future http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZFTaeu4GIPo.


Dont judge me haha

With the head apart I was able to move towards cleaning everything in preparation for tolerancing. As with the valve spring compressor, I also spent a lot of time looking for the perfect degreaser to use. Its important to make a good selection because aluminum is a finicky material. You can easily lose a few thousandths of an inch if you let a machined surface oxidize. Therefore I avoided all of the common degreasers and asked around for recommendations. One of my sae buddies pointed me in the direction of simplegreen extreme motorsports. http://www.simplegreen.com/products_extreme_motor.php This stuff is safe on aluminum and is amazing at dissolving engine crud. Observe:

BEFORE:



AFTER:


Still have a ways to go but quite an improvement if you ask me. Basically I sprayed the head with the simple green and went to town with a tooth brush to work the stuff into the dirt. Thankfully my brother was a willing assistant otherwise I'd still be brushing haha. Anyway, after the toothbrush session I hit the aluminum with a pressure washer. This process was repeated a number of times and the head just kept turning out better and better. Unfortunately I cant reach all of tight spaces so I plan to buy a few gallons of the simple green and simply soak it until next Saturday haha. The pressure washer should be able to take care of the rest by then

During this whole process I made sure to keep things organized and put my cardboard template to use


The cardboard has a fixed orientation printed on it so its easy to keep track of the seemingly endless amount of tiny parts that compose the valvetrain. All I have to do is match a zip lock bag to the cardboard and I know exactly where those parts belong.

Anyway, thats it for this week. Next week I'm going to continue cleaning and plan to start measuring stuff. Stay tuned

This post has been edited by enderswift: Sep 10, 2014 - 7:22 AM

[Keiri]

Very detailed and well thought-out process to dealing with the head Luke. Even though you find it crude the tool you made works and works well so that's something to be quite proud of.

Also, I couldn't help but laugh at this:

Nothing major, but every little bit gets me THAT much closer to slamming into a median at 17 psi.

I know you're joking but I truly hope this never happens.

[lagos]

Good luck on the project. Seems like you know what you're doing!

[Stambo]

looks good luke!

[enderswift]

Hey everyone,

long time no update, but I've been busy with work and school so there's been little time to focus on the rebuild. Luckily the semester is out for winter break and I've had the chance to get some stuff done. As I've mentioned before I am focusing on the cylinder head until it is completely done before moving on to the bottom end. So with that in mind I've been busy cleaning, measuring, and ordering parts:


A quick before picture:


My first round of cleaning involved scrubbing the cylinder head with a tooth brush and simple green extreme before rinsing with a pressure washer


The real stubborn stuff required a brass brush and more simple green (brass doesn't scratch aluminum but is much more effective than tooth brush bristles).
This was an extremely tedious process but I'm really happy with the results.


I obviously couldn't reach everything with brushes and a power washer, so I went to Grainger supply and picked up 3 gallons of Simple green Boeing Cleaner and soaked the head. I was AMAZED at how awesome that stuff is. The hidden crud in the oil channels exploded off the head right before my eyes. In retrospect I probably could have just soaked the head from the beginning and avoided all that scrubbing. But oh well

http://industrial.simplegreen.com/ind_products_extreme.php





I also took the time to clean and spray the valve cover in VHT wrinkle paint. Painting with this stuff is no easy task since the slightest change in temperature will cause it to wrinkle in patches. I took a lot of time cleaning, sanding, and painting to avoid that problem. I think it came out pretty well.


Next step was to start measuring in preparation for machining.


Measuring turned out to be much harder than I expected simply because Toyota maintains specifications in the ten-thousandths range. This meant that I had to borrow a micrometer accurate to 4 significant figures and check all of my values. It was very time consuming.

Everything was within tolerance but the exhaust valve stems were only 2 ten-thousandths away from being worn out. This concerned me so I measured the center of the valve stems (which doesn't wear) and saw that the valves were on the small end of tolerance when brand new. Confused, I measured the valve guides with a bore gauge. The difference between the bore diameter and the valve stem gives you the oil clearance spec. In my case I was comfortably in the tight end for all the valves. So even though the valve stems are small the oil clearance is good, which is ultimately the important measurement.



I also went on to measure absolutely everything the FSM called for and thankfully the cylinder head is in fantastic shape; despite the lack of oil changes. In light of this information I've decided to get the following machining done:

head resurfacing: The head is not warped, but metal head gaskets experience shearing forces due to the difference in thermal expansion rates that comes with having a cast iron block and an aluminum head. Therefore a smooth surface is required to avoid failure.

http://www.aa1car.com/library/ar996.htm

Cam shaft polishing: There are some directional scratches on the cam journals which probably occurred during cold starts. They pass the fingernail test but any little scratch can disrupt the extremely thin oil film that separates the camshaft and the head. Therefore since I cant polish the head journals, I'm going to have a shop polish the cams with Emory cloth instead. This should increase the longevity of the head without affecting the oil clearance.

3 angle valve cut I spent a TON of time checking the valve seating and the exhaust valves have a little bit of pitting in them. I could just lap the exhaust valves by hand but I figured I might as well go big and get a 3 angle done on exhaust and a refresh on the intake. Go big or go home. The downside is that I'll have to replace all of the shims or shorten the valves since cutting makes them sit deeper in the head.


Finally I found one lifter that is going to need replacing, I think something went wrong during case hardening because it looks like the carbon diffused unevenly around the sides. Fortunately the lifter bore was unaffected by this so I can get away with just replacing the lifter.... for ~$20

Currently I'm in the process of selling extra stuff from the clip and saving money to buy the master rebuild kit, and pay for machining. The Toyota dealer near me is active with the Toyota scene so they gave me discounts on a lot of my rebuild parts. Its pretty awesome, but unfortunately a bunch of stuff has been discontinued and I'm gonna have to dig around to buy stuff like the oil and coolant pumps.

anyway, here's my humble progress thus far. I wish I had some more interesting stuff to post, but I want to take my time and be thorough with this.

This post has been edited by enderswift: Jan 14, 2013 - 7:11 PM

[richee3]

Wow... That's thorough. I used Simple Green to clean my engine bag last week. Totally worth the money!

[Stambo]

i can't wait till spring!

Do you think some of us will make it to another level car show in late july? I went last year and was the only celica there except for 2 1st gens.

This post has been edited by Stambo: Dec 29, 2011 - 7:36 PM

[enderswift]

i can't wait till spring!

Do you think some of us will make it to another level car show in late july? I went last year and was the only celica there except for 2 1st gens.

I'd be down for a car show. Not sure if the swap will be done by then though

[enderswift]

Hello everyone,

I decided to refurbish the fuel rail and fuel injectors last night and figured I'd post the results:


First the fuel rail was disassembled and all the components were cleaned in a variety of simple green products. In my opinion one of the more satisfying aspects of this rebuild is making something look new again. That was definitely the case here, I wish I had taken a before shot to show the contrast..


Next all of the hoses were replaced with fuel injection and vac lines.

Finally I turned my attention to the fuel injectors. Normally you would just send them out to get cleaned but I was inspired to try cleaning them on my own after watching a youtube video showing a way to cycle them with carb cleaner and a battery. In my case I had to be careful because the st205 uses low impedance injectors, which means a large current will cause damage to their solenoids. In fact the gt4 harness has a resistor pack built in to step down the voltage to avoid exactly this problem. Unfortunately there was no way for me to tell what voltage these injectors actually operate at since my resistor pack was not labeled. Therefore I had to start small and wire AA batteries in parallel until i got a response from the injectors. Eventually I switched over to a single D cell battery and got the injectors to actuate. From there it was a matter of connecting the injectors to a can of carb cleaner and cycling them until I was certain they were clean. I had to flow the cleaner backwards since these are side-feed injectors and my options to connect them were limited; still I should get the benefit of flushed screens that way. I recorded a small video demonstrating the process. Its crude, but effective.

http://s74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/sub...nt=MVI_1188.mp4

I still need to purchase new injector o-rings and perhaps a new fpr before the fuel rail is complete. But that's gonna have to wait until some more funds come in. Anyway, next week I should have the cylinder head completely finished at which point I'll be taking the block apart.

This post has been edited by enderswift: Jan 3, 2012 - 12:46 AM

[Stambo]

nice video man! I'll have to try that sometime when i have my intake manifold off.

[enderswift]

Quick update:

cylinder head has returned from the machine shop and I put it together for a final check of the journal tolerances and the valve lash:


All ready for one last round of measuring




Head was decked


Camshafts were polished, including the tips of the cam lobes.

This is only a mock up assembly since I still need to install a set of new valve seals and a new lifter. When they arrive it'll just be a 20 min affair to pop them in. I just came back from Toyota and purchased a new cap and rotor and my rebuild kit is on the way. I also ordered a set of Denso plugs and wires from work and they should be there in 2 weeks. All told I spent a lot of money today. But I'm not done. Next I'm gonna order so ARP headstuds. Broke again woooo! Well I think its safe to say that the cylinder head rebuild is nearly complete. Soon it's gonna be all about the bottom end for the next few months

This post has been edited by enderswift: Dec 23, 2012 - 12:44 PM

[rave2n]

Lots of nice work!

[richee3]

I'm digging the picture of the Lotus on the wall. Inspiration!

[navseal345]

WOW! This makes me look lazy. Did you say you were goin to convert it back to AWD?

[enderswift]

yes. I plan to convert the e154f to fwd for the 2nd phase of my swap. Later I plan to reinstall the center differential and weld in the rear subframe. My reasoning is that although I can weld, I can't weld well enough to do a quality job quite yet. Plus I still have to buy my own welder and gear. So instead of buying an e153 with a possibly worn out viscous LSD, I'd much rather convert the e154f to fwd with a helical diff. That way I can replace worn bearing and synchros and end up with a really strong LSD trans. I have the fsm on the e154f, it's really not as difficult as one would think.

This post has been edited by enderswift: Sep 10, 2014 - 7:29 AM

[Smaay]

why didnt you upgrade to 1ZZ-FE buckets?

[enderswift]

shimless buckets would be nice, but the benefit doesn't really justify the cost. Shim under bucket can already rev high with little risk of spitting a shim so the ~25 grams saved per bucket wasn't really worth it to me. I think the money can be better spent on balancing the crankshaft and connecting rods instead.

This post has been edited by enderswift: Jan 8, 2012 - 5:51 PM

[navseal345]

So if this is going to be done by the next Midwest Meet, we will need to see how many people we can cram in your car and YOU WILL take us for a ride.

[enderswift]

So if this is going to be done by the next Midwest Meet, we will need to see how many people we can cram in your car and YOU WILL take us for a ride.

Sure, but I already know the answer. It's 7 lol. Whether or not we come back alive is another matter haha

I'm digging the picture of the Lotus on the wall. Inspiration!

It's one of my favorite cars, and I like the whole design philosophy of doing a lot with very little.

Quick update:


Current state of cylinder head.




Got some parts in. Rest should be in this week

[Stambo]

now you making my motor look bad

[RabidTRD]

I absolutely love those plugs. They compliment the 5S's well.

[kurt95gt]

I absolutely love those plugs. They compliment the 5S's well.

Really?
I have them in my 5s an it seem to run better before them

[richee3]

Any chance of an update?

[Driver]

As a fellow 6GC owner living in Chicago wanting to do a swap... How are you going to get around emissions?

[enderswift]

Any chance of an update?

No real update unfortunately since school keeps me pretty busy. I'm getting a nice fat tax return though, and spring break starts next week. So it wont be much longer before I have the short block finished. at which point I'll post an update that even photobucket will notice. Speaking of buckets, the ones you sent me worked perfectly; so thanks again

As a fellow 6GC owner living in Chicago wanting to do a swap... How are you going to get around emissions?

I think your best bet would be to buy a celica that is 1995 or older

This post has been edited by enderswift: Jan 14, 2013 - 7:20 PM

[Driver]

Haha I guess I'm no longer on the fence about going to the meet lol. I really want to know! I want to throw a 2GR in mine sooo bad.

[navseal345]

You still plan on going AWD after a little while correct? And there is modification required for that, correct? Still cant wait to see this Celica at a Midwest Meet!

[enderswift]

Haha I guess I'm no longer on the fence about going to the meet lol. I really want to know! I want to throw a 2GR in mine sooo bad.

good, these midwest meets need to keep growing. And a 2gr sounds pretty awesome

You still plan on going AWD after a little while correct? And there is modification required for that, correct? Still cant wait to see this Celica at a Midwest Meet!

Sure am. The extent of the modification is limited to constructing custom subframe mounts, since the rear usdm floorpan is different from that of an actual gt4. Its nothing crazy though.

[navseal345]

Awesome.

[richee3]

I'm glad the buckets worked out for you I can't wait to see this thing fired up!

[enderswift]

Hello everyone,

Many interesting and time consuming things have been keeping me busy the last few months so unfortunately there hasn't been too much progress on the rebuild. Nevertheless it is now spring break, and I have a little spare cash to burn. So I have been ordering parts and finally tore into the bottom end. Observe:



the Toyota fipg stuff is awesome at sealing and preventing leaks. But damn does it fight you when you're trying to take everything apart



I try to make a habit of threading bolts right back into their respective parts to avoid confusion later, which is the case with this upper oil pan



After a few hours I had my work bench setup for the next round of rebuilding, complete with a new template to keep me organized and a number of parts ready for a round of cleaning.



Its usually a good idea to put cuts of hose on the rod bolts to prevent them from scratching the cylinder walls during removal



Having done that I was happy to see the cylinder walls were in really good condition. No scuffs, scratches, or cracks anywhere Maybe this motor wasn't so badly abused after all.



the rod bearings on the other hand show a little wear from what can only be a lot of cold starts. Nothing to be alarmed about though, and there were no signs of oil starvation. I'm assuming these are multi-layer bearings from the way the wear pattern looks



The block looks relatively clean on the inside, which is surprising considering the cylinder head was absolutely filthy.



Thankfully all of the crank journals look in good shape, but I'm still going to get them polished in preparation for a new set of bearings

Overall these photos don't depict much progress, but the fact of the matter is that the bottom end is much simpler compared to the cylinder head. Way fewer parts (most of which have convenient stampings), and way fewer surfaces to tolerance. Therefore things should progress at a much quicker pace compared to before (money permitting)

In the coming weeks I plan to get the block hot tanked, crank polished, cylinders honed, and a number of replacement parts in. So a short block should be complete by mid May, at which point I'll be focusing my attention on all of the ancillary assemblies. The ultimate goal being to have a long block complete by mid July.

This post has been edited by enderswift: Dec 22, 2012 - 10:06 AM

[navseal345]

[cheela]

looks good. can't wait to see it finished.

[bsamps4]

I love the wrinkle paint job on that valve cover! Wish you had posted this thread in Forced Induction! You've been hiding!

[enderswift]

I love the wrinkle paint job on that valve cover! Wish you had posted this thread in Forced Induction! You've been hiding!

thanks bud, I was going for more of an oem look and I'm glad it turned out alright. I really suck at painting haha

small update:




Got some parts in. Oil pump, water pump, belt tensioner, the enormous thermostat, pcv valve, and some other stuff. Its a funny feeling when you spend $400 dollars but the package is really small haha. Money well spent though and I really cant say enough good things about Lithia Toyota, amazing customer service.

All I have left to buy is the bearings and rings. Everything else is ready

[navseal345]

Hurry up! Lol.

[bsamps4]

Necesito update sir.

[enderswift]

Necesito update sir.

Oh believe me, no one wants to see updates to this thing more than I do haha, but the last few weeks at school have been absolute insanity. The only things I've done are limited to a few minor refurbishings that aren't even worth talking about. I'm graduating so there will be many updates when I start working.

oh yea the two idler bearings came in for only $30, so thanks for letting me know about B&D

This post has been edited by enderswift: Apr 27, 2012 - 11:05 PM

[enderswift]

Hey guys,

long time no update. Things have been pretty hectic: I've graduated, I've started a career, and I had to see some other projects through. Namely this:

Everything is done now. So expect big updates soon because I finally have a steady income and free time woooo!

This post has been edited by enderswift: Oct 3, 2012 - 12:30 PM

[thatmr2]

can't wait for updates!

[dudeofchaos]

Hey guys,

long time no update. Things have been pretty hectic: I've graduated, I've started a career, and I had to see some other projects through. Namely this:



Everything is done now. So expect big updates soon because I finally have a steady income and free time woooo!

Are you in the FSAE?

[richee3]

You have two weeks to get this engine in your car and come to the meet. That is all.

[Zake]

You have two weeks to get this engine in your car and come to the meet. That is all.

^this

[enderswift]

Are you in the FSAE?

yes, along with 5 other guys from my school. With such a small team it was a wild ride to get the car done in time for competition. Lots of long nights... so there wasn't much room for the celi unfortunately

You have two weeks to get this engine in your car and come to the meet. That is all.

After what I just went through with the formula car, 2 weeks is a luxurious amount of time haha. The problem is I'm waiting on parts from the UK. . which so far have been taking forever to arrive. So I cant make any promises. Plus I refuse to rush anything, I want to maintain a high level of quality during this build.

please put the ban hammer away haha

This post has been edited by enderswift: Jul 4, 2012 - 2:19 PM

[enderswift]

Hello 6gc,

it's time for a long overdue rebuild update. I've spent the past few days taking care of a lot of the tedious but important aspects of the rebuild, mainly cleaning, logistics, and organizing/cataloging. Nevertheless, there is a bunch to show and I feel that the hard part is almost behind me.

my overall goal was to prepare the bottom end for tolerancing and machining, so the first step was to remove all of the extra bits from the block and clean them up. This included the oil cooler, oil pans, and everything else not associated with the rotating assembly. Heres a photo of the oil pans after cleaning:



These pans were covered in a really stubborn layer of pure crap, so I had to bust out the simple green and wage total war. It wasn't a fun process, but I think the results were well worth the effort.

From there I had to deal with the old silicone sealant. Most people recommend using a razor blade to scrap it off, but I ended up nicking the surface without making much progress. So I decided to try out an 80 grit bristle brush. 3m makes these things and they are apparently fantastic at cleaning aluminum mating surfaces without damage:



And the results:



you really can't ask for a better finish than that. I highly recommend this to anyone working on something similar. To finish things off I put the proper bolts into the pans and secured them with twist ties so installation will be easy in the future.


Next I moved on to preparing a portion of the rotating assembly for storage until I was ready to start tolerancing. This consisted of taking the piston-rod assemblies apart and cleaning each part individually. The first thing to do is to remove the c clips that hold the wrist pin from moving axially. Easier said than done, my first attempts sent the clips flying and it was miracle that I found them. For future reference I suggest doing this with your hands inside of a box, that way the clips will just bounce around the box instead of getting lost. With the clips removed I was expecting a rough time because the factory manual insists on heating everything in a tank before pressing out the wrist pins, but I was able to just push them out with my thumb. I'm not sure if that's because it was a hot day or if I need to replace the rod bushings, I guess I'll find out soon enough.

The pistons were cleaned in a vat of simple green extreme and properly labeled before being placed into a corresponding bag. I'm not taking any chances with mixing these parts up, especially since the piston and wrists come as matched sets!



The connecting rods were just cleaned in regular simple green before being labeled as well. Here's the end result of my work:



By this point the block was almost bare and all I had to do was remove the crankshaft and the pair of pumps. I started with the oil pump and carefully removed one bolt at a time (cleaning each one) and transferring it to a corresponding location on the new pump. I then transferred over the timing gear and installed a new koyo bearing. The same was done for the water pump. I also made sure to keep the old gaskets so it will be easy to match new ones in the future:

Here is the new oil pump with everything moved over:




Having done all of this I was able to finally remove the crankshaft and place it in a tub to soak along with the rear main housing:



A quick soak later and the crankshaft was looking pretty good:



unfortunately all is not well with the crank. After cleaning I noticed that the counterweights around the #4 rod journal had some discoloration:



uh oh. The first thing that came to my mind was that I had an overheated crank. But things just didn't add up.

why is it only on the counterweight and not the journal itself?
why is it only one journal?
why aren't the bearing destroyed?
why isn't the connecting rod discolored too?
why is this happening to me?

Here are more photos to show what I mean:

#4 connecting rod, no discoloration or damage of any kind (I don't know why it came out brown in the photo, its actually cast grey after being cleaned.. I guess htc can only do so much with a phone camera):


#4 rod bearings (also came out brown in the photo). The bearings look like what you'd expect, no pitting or scoring and only light wear through two layers:


There is also discoloration around main #5 right next to the rod journal. After doing some research I found out that certain manufacturers do what's called induction heat treating. It is meant to strengthen certain points of a crankshaft and would explain what I'm seeing. The reason that its only on rod journal 4 and main 5 is because those are the two closest points to the output shaft and clutch, and therefore see the most load (or perhaps they are just furthers from the pump). It would also explain why there's no damage on anything else, not even the bearings, which would go out long before the crank discolored like that. Heres a video of the induction hardening process:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=52zsbqVgyP4

I'm basing my bearing assessment on a number of sources, but just to illustrate my point here's a website that shows a number of damaged bearings and their cause:

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/51...ngs_go_bad.aspx

My bearings don't match any of those and instead look like normal wear from a number of other engines I've seen. So this is a real mystery to me at the moment.

I would really hope that the crank came like this from the factory but the thing is, I feel I would have heard about induction hardening on 3s cranks by now. Maybe this is a late-model 3s feature? If anyone can chime in I would appreciate it. For now I'm going to tolerance the absolute crap out of this crank checking everything from the roundness of the journals to the runout of each main. I'm also going to talk with my machine shop to get their opinion. Right now I feel the crank is fine, but I want to make absolutely sure.

Anyway, that's where I stand at the moment. I'm going to hold off on ordering new bearings until I find out what the situation with the crank is. In the mean time I'm going to send the block to my machinist and work on some side stuff

This post has been edited by enderswift: Jul 4, 2012 - 3:32 PM

[navseal345]

I just cant wait for a LSD burnout video.

[Smaay]

dont be too concerned with the crankshaft. you can have it inspected at a machine shop if you are concerned. you are doing a good build. keep it up

[KAOS]

Anyway, that's where I stand at the moment. I'm going to hold off on ordering new bearings until I find out what the situation with the crank is. In the mean time I'm going to send the block to my machinist and work on some side stuff

If you want, while I've got my 3S crankshaft out of the engine I can compare counter weights just for notes sake.

LMK

Anyway, that's where I stand at the moment. I'm going to hold off on ordering new bearings until I find out what the situation with the crank is. In the mean time I'm going to send the block to my machinist and work on some side stuff

If you want, while I've got my 3S crankshaft out of the engine I can compare counter weights just for notes sake.

LMK

Oh - and uh, great work on YOUR project too!

[enderswift]

KAOS, yes please take a look at your crank for me, it'll be interesting to see if you have the same colors on yours.

I just cant wait for a LSD burnout video.

you and me both!

dont be too concerned with the crankshaft. you can have it inspected at a machine shop if you are concerned. you are doing a good build. keep it up

I cant not be concerned lol. I've invested so much money and effort that I have to be absolutely sure about the parts I'm using, especially something as important as a crank. Thanks for the vote of confidence though, and I'm definitely going to visit my machine shop soon

This post has been edited by enderswift: Jul 5, 2012 - 6:38 PM

[richee3]

Well there's only one thing you can do now.

LIGHTWEIGHT FORGED INTERNALS!!!

[bloodMoney]

Well there's only one thing you can do now.

LIGHTWEIGHT FORGED INTERNALS!!!

^^^THIS. Most Definitely.

[KAOS]

KAOS, yes please take a look at your crank for me, it'll be interesting to see if you have the same colors on yours.

As it turns out - VERY similar... I didn't notice before, thanks for pointing it out.

[enderswift]

You're the man KAOS! thanks for the pics, it makes me feel confident that these cranks are factory induction hardened at the rear main.

Whew

Well there's only one thing you can do now.

LIGHTWEIGHT FORGED INTERNALS!!!

^^^THIS. Most Definitely.

must.... resist... urge... to .. punish bank account

[enderswift]

hey 6gc,

I have another update to share. A few weeks ago I sat down and tried to get a jump on some of the wiring needed to get this project going. Overall it was fairly straightforward except for the fact that I ran into several different colors of wire at the st204 EA1 plug which weren't consistent with what the gt4 chassis manual was telling me. I checked the '95 usdm diagrams and they matched what was in the gt4 chassis manual, So I started to suspect that post obdII cars are wired slightly different. So I went ahead and ordered the 1999 usdm wiring manual for $20 and went to town as soon as it showed up. Here's just a few photos of the mayhem:


First things first, gotta get organized.



Things get confusing really quick so I wrote down all of the EA1 pin numbers and attacked them one by one. I got all of the circuits matched up and figured out all of the color issues. Pin 12 on the st204 EA1 had me worried because it was taking the spot of one of the wires coming out of the st205 intercooler/fuel pump relay box. Luckily it turned out that the st204 wire was just a ground so there was no problem in replacing it with the relax box wire.


This is a photo I took of my st204 EA1 plug as a reference while matching everything. This way I didn't have to keep running in and out of the house haha


Here's a picture of the mini harness getting tested for continuity. For those of you aspiring to do the swap on your own, don't be intimidated by the wiring, because this is all it is. If you can get your engine with the intercooler/fuel pump relay box you're golden.


This is the partially complete supplemental harness (I still have to finish wrapping it nicely). The wire pointing down plugs into the intercooler pump, the loose wires pointing up are extras that get ground and power. To the right is the EA1 connector. All I have to do now is transfer over the pins from the EA1 connector in this photo to the connector that's in my car, find power for two of those loose wires, and ground for the third one. And that's it for wiring in the engine bay. I still have to extend the actual 3s engine harness by 3 feet and wire up the clutch start switch, but that's going to have to wait for another day. When I get all of that done I plan to finish my wiring write up and post it for those who want to do wiring on their own. More to come soon

This post has been edited by enderswift: Jul 17, 2012 - 12:04 PM

[Batman722]

nice

[rave2n]

Nice! Quite interested to see your in bay wiring.

Didn't get the relay boxes with my set, but once I get it all drawn up, and the relay's sourced, I plan on doing the same. A good writeup, with simple schematics for others to repeat.

This post has been edited by rave2n: Jul 13, 2012 - 7:13 PM

[richee3]

I can't wait for the startup video It might be a little soon to ask but what are your plans after the swap? Power goals, specific body bits and pieces, suspension setup, etc.?

[Zake]

soo, whatcha gonna do with the 5s when it's out of there? wink wink nudge nudge

[enderswift]

hmm I never really put too much thought on what to do with it other than playing with the idea of buying a camry roller for my brother and building him a daily. That's looking like more work than its worth though. Anyway the motor has 106k on it at the moment and it burns oil during highway drives. But I just did the timing belt and compression is within 5 psi on all cylinders. Lets wait until the next meet after im (hopefully) swapped to figure something out

[enderswift]

quick update,

Got a few parts in:



optioned out Berk downpipe. It's gorgeous

All main, and connecting rod bearings

OEM timing belt

Walbro 255 fuel pump

Arp main studs

Free HKS SSQV III from my buddy

There are still a few things to buy before this engine is ready to go. For instance, I'm looking at having clutchmaster make me a hybrid clutch. I still need piston rings. And I need to send my exhaust manifold and turbine housing to jet hot for ceramic coating. From there the really satisfying portion of this build will begin.

This post has been edited by enderswift: Dec 22, 2012 - 10:15 AM

[dudeofchaos]

^Where did you get the OEM timing belt and all the bearings? Are they found on other Usdm vehicules? Cause I can't get stuff for the 3rd gen 3sgte here

Edit: found via toyodiy that the bearings are found on the St185 and St165 also, so north american dealers should have em. But can't find the timing belt, and I should start looking for one, have any tips on where to look for?

This post has been edited by dudeofchaos: Jul 21, 2012 - 5:08 PM

[rave2n]

quick update,

Got a few parts in:



optioned out Berk downpipe. Its gorgeous

All main, and connecting rod bearings

OEM timing belt

Walbro 255 fuel pump

Arp main studs

Free HKS SSQV III from my buddy

There are still a few things to buy before this engine is ready to go. For instance, I'm looking at having clutchmaster make me a hybrid clutch. I still need piston rings. And I need to send my exhaust manifold and turbine housing to jet hot for ceramic coating. From there the really satisfying portion of this build will begin.

Nice haul!

Mind me asking the price of that berk downpipe? Debating if I want to grab one myself.

[enderswift]

Thanks! I paid $297 shipped. No regrets, it's hands down my favorite part out of all of them. The build quality is great and the customer service was amazing.

^Where did you get the OEM timing belt and all the bearings? Are they found on other Usdm vehicules? Cause I can't get stuff for the 3rd gen 3sgte here

Edit: found via toyodiy that the bearings are found on the St185 and St165 also, so north american dealers should have em. But can't find the timing belt, and I should start looking for one, have any tips on where to look for?

I got most of my OEM parts through lithia toyota: http://www.lithiatoyotaparts.com/partlocat...m?siteid=215542

just type the toyodiy part numbers in and you should find stuff for sale. They are great guys with excellent service as well. The belt was pricey though, I paid $89 usd. It was ~$40 usd a few months ago.... gotta pay to play I guess

This post has been edited by enderswift: Jul 21, 2012 - 10:43 PM