My 1MZ progress thread Options

[Smaay]

Ok ill get my thread going now. Here i am tearing apart the car getting it ready for new paint. I probably should have fitted the 1MZ first but timing just worked out this way.









Here the engine bay is getting painted. the pictures dont to it any justice.









Should get the rest of the body painted this week and then ill put it all together.

Ill take some pics of the engine when I get home. It actually snowed up here last night so I wasn't gonna go near outside

[SwissFerdi]

Props for actually painting the whole thing. Very impressive.

[kurt95gt]

Sweet been waiting to see this
sorry i couldnt be more help on the wiring

[Smaay]

Props for actually painting the whole thing. Very impressive.

oh yeah, gotta look good, im a perfectionist

[BonzaiCelica]

great stuff can't wait to see this thing running, u better make it for the meet!

[SupraKid]

So Jeff.... Your gonna fab up a mount for me right?

This post has been edited by SupraKid: Feb 29, 2012 - 1:13 AM

[95CelicaST]

[Smaay]

^^^ ???

Suprakid, what mount do you need?

[stephen_lee]

aaand the v6 swap craze has begun

[95CelicaST]

What have I done...

[kurt95gt]

What have I done...

You started something amazing lol
Cheap fast reliable 1mz swap lol

[Smaay]

here is a link to the 1MZ rebuild

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=82726

[Syaoran]

@1MZ MR2 owner: lol

[Smaay]

Checked on the car. it was in the spray booth getting finished up. more pics to come soon.

[Smaay]

well while im waiting for the rest of the car to get painted. here is how i got the celica Tach to work with the V6 signal

in my purchase of the 1MZ i got the gauge cluster too. i have a spare celica cluster so i took a chance on doing this mod. I think i read on MR2oc.com that this is the easiest way to do it.

first take the clear plastics off both gauges. first the celica gauge then the camry gauge.





flip the gauge over and under the tech you will see some screws. remove all of them to free the tach.





this is the backside of the tachs.



carefully move the needle to the 6 oclock position and then pull off the needles.



on the camry gauge you remove the 2 screws on the front and it will free the circuit card. on the celica gauge you have to carefully pull the face plate off, then remove the 2 screws.



all you have to do now is switch them around and put back together. This should give you a calibrated tach for the signals coming off the V6 instead of an I4.

[kurt95gt]

Great writeup smaay

[Smaay]

thanks, im dying to know if this really works. UGH i want my car on the road!!!

[Smaay]

finally an update

[smkr3w]

Don't mind if I drool...

[Smaay]

not at all, cause im still drooling!!

[rave2n]

[kurt95gt]

Love thw mount

[Smaay]

Thanks I can duplicate these for 200 bucks. I forget who else wanted on once i built mine. come forward so i can take care of ya

[kurt95gt]

Ill let you know when i have the extra cash
mine works for now but yours looks muxh cleaner

[95CelicaST]

I remember when mine was clean...


Lots of good stuff in this thread. When will my bottom end be ready, good sir?

[Smaay]

I got a new problem, since i have a 3MZ bottom end, the power steering pump that came with my 1MZ has no where to bolt up. can anyone help here?

[kurt95gt]

3mz pump maybe

[Smaay]

yeah thats what it looks like ill have to do,

[kurt95gt]

Have you tryied the a/c pump or the alternator
you might end ul having that problem with them too

[Smaay]

no those look to be the same, the problem is the 3MZ belt tensioner is slightly different so it would be in the way of the PS pump mount. i need to find the bracket that bolts to the head first. i think that will help me line things up.

This post has been edited by Smaay: May 22, 2012 - 10:57 AM

[kurt95gt]

Good luck
If anyone can make it work its you
Honestly tho
When im moving i dont notice much difference with or without ps

[Smaay]

here is a pic of the bracket i need

[njccmd2002]

the 8k rpm on the celica is on the 1 oclock position, and on the other is on the 5 oclock position.

theoritically if you just swap the faces.

when the tach hits 6k rpm in real time, it will show 8k rpm on your swapped cluster, if you go beyond that then it will show the needle floating in neverland.

unless there is calibration involved, is there any?

This post has been edited by njccmd2002: May 26, 2012 - 8:08 AM

[kurt95gt]

If you dont swap to the v6 tach The tach wont work at all the 4cyl tach cant read the v6 signal

[richee3]

You can use a Dakota Digital or MSD tach adapter to make that work without swapping tachs.

[Smaay]

Kurt is right, you cant just change the faces, you need to change the electronics. I also got the gauge cluster in my purchase with the engine. that is much cheaper than having to buy and wire in an MSD box

[stephen_lee]

so you swapped faces and the elecrtronics? im not clear on what you did really and how itll give a correct rpm reading..

if you use the stock gauge and electronics itll read 50% higher... i know from experience... redline on my v6 is past where the gauge stops moving.

i believe there is a resistor you can change to get it at the right calibration.

[Smaay]

no i just changed the electronic board. they have integrated circuits on them that are designed to receive a 4 cylinder pulse or a V6 pulse. the Camry face wouldn't fit in the celica cluster.

[stephen_lee]

did that board include the motor that moves the needle? if so then its still calibrated for the camry gauge face and would still be off, correct?... unless im missing something entirely

[kurt95gt]

It works stephen
Mr2 guys doit all the time lol

[stephen_lee]

IIRC the mr2 has the same sweep as the camry rpm gauge

so 1 o'clock is ~5,000 rpm on both the mr2 and camry...

but the 1 o'clock position is ~7,000 rpm on the celica face



^MR2 gauge

[Smaay]

small update, i got ST205 cables and installed them, i also installed a TWM short shifter. im still waiting for a PS bracket from an MR2 guy.

[Smaay]

thats an NA MR2 gauge, and just because the sweep is the same, its all about the signal that the gauge is receiving. a V6 is going to put out a different pulse over an I4

[richee3]

What's the current status of this project? I'm dying to see a startup video and some dyno runs

[Smaay]

i had another slight hang up, i discovered that the AT and MT 1MZ have different rear headers, the AT that came with my engine has the header pointing right into where the shifter cables go for the E153. i ordered a MT header and i should get it monday. once i get the header i can complete the EGR tube. once thats done then it goes back in the car.

[BonzaiCelica]

nice. now get it ready for the august meet.

[Smaay]

august meet?

well i finished putting the body harness back on, the fenders are back on, the headlights are in. my header was back ordered so i wont get that till monday.

This post has been edited by Smaay: Jun 24, 2012 - 10:50 AM

[richee3]

Any update?

[Smaay]

updates: engine is all in, just need to fab up the exhaust. once i get that all done and the AC lines ill be ready to run

[richee3]

So you're keeping the a/c? Good deal. Cruise control as well?

[Smaay]

yes thats the plan, keep the AC and the cruise. its in the 100s here during the summer and i must have cruise

[TwistedCeli94]

awesome work dude! those gauges are sick

[richee3]

I was hoping you would, just to show what goes into making the 1MZ swap a complete daily driver.

[kurt95gt]

I was hoping you would, just to show what goes into making the 1MZ swap a complete daily driver.

A car doesn't need those things
But they are really really nice to have lol

[SwissFerdi]

A car doesn't need those things

's actually true, I rarely use a/c here in Florida - gets into the 100s as well, I just like windows down more.

[ricochet1490]

A car doesn't need those things

's actually true, I rarely use a/c here in Florida - gets into the 100s as well, I just like windows down more.

#crazy

lol

In other news. Looks good.

[BonzaiCelica]

I was hoping you would, just to show what goes into making the 1MZ swap a complete daily driver.

A car doesn't need those things
But they are really really nice to have lol

says the guy the post everyday in his thread even if he turns the ratchet 180 degrees to the left to loosen a bolt because it was slightly too tight

[kurt95gt]

I was hoping you would, just to show what goes into making the 1MZ swap a complete daily driver.

A car doesn't need those things
But they are really really nice to have lol

says the guy the post everyday in his thread even if he turns the ratchet 180 degrees to the left to loosen a bolt because it was slightly too tight

Hey I've been doin good about not posting anything until the car is back on the road lol

[Box]

A/C is a must, cruise is nice to have. I hardly ever use cruise though. Still, can't wait to see it all done!

[SupraKid]

Lol Justin is just mad because he never does anything noteable to his car besides dent it

[ricochet1490]

Lol Justin is just mad because he never does anything noteable to his car besides dent it

#pwnd
LOL

[Smaay]

ok small update, i ended up getting both front and rear headers from a 5 speed solara. because im trying to smog this car, i need to comply with how the solara is. luckily it only has 1 CAT after the Y pipe so im getting all those parts now. the AC lines have been fabbed up. The Solara and the Celica use the same AC compressor but you have to either change the top section where the lines attach to it, or change the pulley. I elected to swap the top sections. i just welded -8 AN fittings on the spots where the hoses attach and made my own lines.

[Box]

So, getting close to being road ready?

[Smaay]

Update time:

Finished the exhaust. here is my Y pipe





ill take more pics of the engine bay when its more daylight, it was getting dark quickly

[kurt95gt]

That's basically how mine looks too just mine meets alittle farther back

[BonzaiCelica]

nice work. did you do the welds yourself??

[Smaay]

i wish i could claim those welds, my fabricator that builds everything for me did them. im the designer, hes my bitch ha ha

[Smaay]

well i turned the key this morning, when i turn to the ON position, the starter activates. looking into it now

[richee3]

I got so excited for a minute when I read "I turned the key." I was expecting to hear it started on the first try. I'm sure you'll get it sorted out in no time.

[BonzaiCelica]

is that aluminized steel, your exhaust work?? is there a difference in weight between aluminzed steel(which is what most exhaust shops use right?) and sus304 stainless....

[Smaay]

Bonzai, yes its aluminized and i have no idea if its lighter

[Ted95]

the 1mz looks awesome in the bay Smaay great job man, hope you get the starter issue resolved.

[kurt95gt]

Sucks about the starter issue. Hopefully its an easy fix.

One day my swap will look as nice as yours

[Smaay]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-jB4UCXIBGk...be_gdata_player

[richee3]

That thing sounds beastly!

[kurt95gt]

Welcome to v6 club
2 rules of v6 club
Rule 1 don't talk about v6 club
Rule 2 if its your first night its gotta run lol

Contests man! Hopefully ill be joining you in the fun again soon

[Smaay]

Gotta figure why the key in the on position is triggering the starter.

[Smaay]

i cant figure out why my starter is engaging in the ON position

This post has been edited by Smaay: Oct 26, 2012 - 2:54 PM

[kurt95gt]

Crossed wire? It's gotta be something simple

[Smaay]

i dont know what it is.

Kurt, didnt you say your speedometer also sits in the middle or did? mine is going that now too

This post has been edited by Smaay: Oct 26, 2012 - 2:54 PM

[kurt95gt]

No my thromostat gauge doesn't work right
Speedily works fine.

When mine acted kinda odd it was grounding related.
Did you put the 2 harness grounds back on the intake manifold then ground the block to the car?
What starter are you using?

[Smaay]

yes the 2 grounds are hooked up on the back of the engine, well one on teh back and one on the side of the IM. im using the 5S-FE starter, its the same as the 3S and 1MZ.

[kurt95gt]

Have you ground it out to the chassis yet

[ricochet1490]

multi-meter and start checking plugs.... GO

[Smaay]

ok just spent an hour on the phone with Doug, he is the man by the way.

we disconnected the wire on the 22 pin connector at pin 8 which was black with a grey band every inch and everything worked perfectly.

He thinks pin 8 is MRL which was sending the 12V to the starter trigger. we moved that wire to pin 7 which i think was STA, i cant remember.

now gotta figure out why when i turn on the key, my speedometer jumps to about 36MPH

[kurt95gt]

1problem solve....few dozen to go

[Smaay]

Kurt, what did you use for water hoses to the heater core?

[kurt95gt]

I can't remember the size
It was same size as stock celica an I got 3 foot an cut it to lingth my self
I'll dig through my thread for the top rad hose for you too
It's got a part number the lower hose I used the stock v6 hose cut in half an the 2 old ends put together an a long hose with a 90 degree angle at one end

[kurt95gt]

Part number for top rad hose

[Smaay]

yeah i looked through your thread and saw this same picture, thanks. i have the radiator hoses taken care of, i need to do something for heater hoses

[kurt95gt]

All the rest of my lines are coolent hose from advance auto parts cut to length
It's the same size around as the stock 5s heater hose

[Smaay]

ok latest update. unplugged the speed sensor, same issue. needle jumps to ~36MPH and the Tach jumps to about 900 RPM (with the engine off) with the engine on the tach registers a signal but it does not match what my scan tool says.

the water temp gauge seems to read but its a little low. my tool says 180* F and the needle is about 1/4 way up.

it idles really low but i have a good theory why. im not getting and O2 STFT or LTFT information. just reading 0. i think its looking for O2 sensors.

im getting an airbag light, dont think that has any relation.

oops forgot to tell you the gauge that i swapped the V6 tach into was a good working gauge before.

i also have my original gauge cluster. i put that one back in and the MPH stays at 0 and so does the Tach with the engine running. give it some gas and there is no RPM signal at all

[richee3]

I've actually seen something like that. On my old blue project Celica, after I pulled the engine, specifically. Missing grounds caused some funky issues. When I turned the headlights on, suddenly my speedo showed I was going like 35 or 40 mph. When I turned the brights on, I was allegedly going 60. It was simply caused by engine grounds not being in place. When I dropped a 5S back in place and halfway bolted it back up, the weird issues went away.

I'm not doubting your grounds, just merely commenting. I'm willing to bet that the speedo is something simple. Still, I'd hate tracking it down. I wish you the best of luck!

[kurt95gt]

Yea your having some kind of grounding issue for sure
I've got 4 ground wires made out of ground cable for a 1600 watt amp
Try cleaning your grounds spots down to bare metal an add a couple more

[Smaay]

while i wont disagree i might be having a ground issue, when i swap clusters, the other speed gauge reads 0. i understand why the other tach reads 0 its struggling with the V6 tach signal

[Smaay]

i drove the car!!!!!!

i still have the GT throttle cable so i could only give it about 1/3 throttle. OMG this thing hauls ASS!!!!

bad news. the drivers axle pops out. it has the retaining ring on it but its still popping out.

[95CelicaST]

There should be two small grounds off the harness that runs under the intake manifold. This grounds the ECU. You should have a chassis ground off of the ACIS side of the intake manifold as well.

Glad to hear you got to drive it. Isn't it wonderful?

[kurt95gt]

Congrats!!!
Wait till you feel full throttle

[Smaay]

here are some update pics





This post has been edited by Smaay: Oct 18, 2012 - 12:17 PM

[Box]

Looking good!