Cutrara Says: Don't let your rotors get this bad, Pics inside |
Cutrara Says: Don't let your rotors get this bad, Pics inside |
May 5, 2006 - 5:12 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined May 6, '05 From PA Currently Offline Reputation: 4 (100%) |
Calipers and caliper mounting brackets are off, I even removed the codder pin and big 32mm Axle nut. I have been beating the **** out of these rotors and they still wont come off. This is just rust, right? I'm not forgetting anything am I? How do I break through the rust? I doused them with WD-40.
Thanks Edit: Pics are down more This post has been edited by Cutrara: May 6, 2006 - 2:25 PM -------------------- |
May 5, 2006 - 5:25 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 5, '05 From NE Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) |
U don't need that big bolt off and the pin off. they can stay on. here is what i did.
For the passenger side turn the wheel all the way to the right. Then pound on it hard from the back side and it should come off. Thats how i got mine off. This post has been edited by celiracer: May 5, 2006 - 5:25 PM -------------------- |
May 5, 2006 - 8:16 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 17, '06 Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
QUOTE(Cutrara @ May 5, 2006 - 6:12 PM) [snapback]430587[/snapback] Calipers and caliper mounting brackets are off, I even removed the codder pin and big 32mm Axle nut. I have been beating the **** out of these rotors and they still wont come off. This is just rust, right? I'm not forgetting anything am I? How do I break through the rust? I doused them with WD-40. Thanks Sometimes rotors can stick to the hubs. There are three threaded holes in the rotor. Use the appropriate sized metric bolt to thread into the holes and force the rotor from the hub. Use all the threaded holes to separate in a uniform fashion. Mine were really stuck to the rotors when I replaced them in March. A hammer does also work if you aren't keeping the rotors, like celiracer says. Anti-seize compound is also nice to use on the threads and between the rotor and the hub as well as the outside of the rotor and the aluminum rim to prevent them from sticking next time. Just a very thin coat makes a big difference. Yellow94GT stuck rotors |
May 5, 2006 - 10:17 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined May 6, '05 From PA Currently Offline Reputation: 4 (100%) |
My neighbor, an ex-mechanic, came over with a 4lb sledge hammer and got them off real fast. I put anti-seize on the backs of the new rotors. You guys have to see what my old rotors and pads look like. I'll snap some pics tomorrow.
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May 6, 2006 - 3:06 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 29, '06 From Hull, UK Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
I agree with the bolts in the threaded holes on the rotors. Mine came off easily using them.
Oh and if they are rear ones, then wind the handbrake pads in a little bit with the adjuster wheel inside. This post has been edited by vsideboy: May 6, 2006 - 3:07 AM |
May 6, 2006 - 2:34 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined May 6, '05 From PA Currently Offline Reputation: 4 (100%) |
I decided to clean up a rotor, because they make neat clocks and such, so I decided to clean them all up and take a few pics. And yes, sometimes I use my bathtub to clean parts.
Passenger's side Rotor, front. Notice how it's scorched Pass side rear This is the passengers side pad, for the backside of the rotor. Yes, it has NO material left, All other pads were within spec, this one probably chipped up and broke off. The new rotors and pads work great. They still need to break in a bit, (the car doesn't roll like it used to) but everything works fine. There's no squeaks either, mainly because I used lots of anti-squeal. In fact, I used too much anti-squeal and it was burning off the whole time I was driving. When I came home this morning, I looked at the caliper. It was literally on fire, flames were burning off all the anti-squeal. I guess I learned my lesson. -------------------- |
May 6, 2006 - 7:24 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Dec 9, '05 From Bedford, TX Currently Offline Reputation: 11 (100%) |
omg~ haha wow. i thought mine was bad. but i guess not. nce dood
-------------------- <--- I miss :'' (
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May 13, 2006 - 11:00 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Sep 9, '02 From Scranton, Pa Currently Offline Reputation: 7 (100%) |
that happens to one pad usually if the caliper is sticking or hanging up... make sure u lube the slide parts when i put the new pads on
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May 13, 2006 - 11:15 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Apr 25, '06 From berwick Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
damn...that is bad...i know ima have to change my rotors very soon...any recommendations on what to get?
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May 13, 2006 - 12:56 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jan 28, '05 From Redondo Beach, CA Currently Offline Reputation: 86 (100%) |
QUOTE(sanchezian16 @ May 13, 2006 - 11:15 AM) [snapback]433552[/snapback] damn...that is bad...i know ima have to change my rotors very soon...any recommendations on what to get? brembos from nopi.com -------------------- |
May 13, 2006 - 4:47 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 17, '05 From Auckland, New Zealand Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
I hope you don't need to be told how damn lucky you have been. To say that your car was a death trap with brakes like that is a bit of an understatement
-------------------- 1994 ST205 Celica GT-FOUR Group A WRC - running in new engine 1993 Rover 220 GTi tarmac rally car (under construction) 3SGE power here we come.... GT-Four spec list |
May 13, 2006 - 5:27 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined May 6, '05 From PA Currently Offline Reputation: 4 (100%) |
They were just passing when I got them inspected in December. One day they were fine, the next, one pad got all chipped up and broke the bonding. That day I had a pretty close call. The next day new brakes were on.
I know it was dangerous, thank you, but I don't need to be told, I had already experienced it. -------------------- |
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