How to: Install Rear Sus. Tech. Swaybar, Cuz it's kind of a pain! Options

[blu94gt]

Alright guys, here's a how-to that I feel is much easier than the instructions given by shop manuals and Suspension Techniques. By now you've probably done the front which was pretty easy compared to the rear (if not then I would recommend doing the front so you get kind of an idea for how it works to install a sway bar, that way you know a bit more for the rear.

Tools required: 12mm socket, 13mm socket, 14mm socket, 14mm open ended wrench, allen wrench/hex key set, 2 jack stands, philips screwdriver, socket wrench extension (will be very handy for some of the bolts that are waaay up there)

Firstly, jack the rear of the car up on jack stands, placing them on the jacking points on either side. You'll need your jack later to support the fuel tank. Remove the rear wheels. Now it's time to jump right in!

Rather than completely removing the muffler like the sway bar instructions say, we're just going to unhang it from 2 of the hangers so it will move around a bit. They are 12mm bolts on the right side and front of the muffler:

*PICS TO BE POSTED TONIGHT*

After you detach these hangers you should go ahead and drop the fuel tank. You only need to go down about 3 inches so you should put your jack under the tank. To drop the tank you just need to undo the 2 14mm bolts that hold the straps:

*PICS TO BE POSTED TONIGHT*

Once the tank is rested on the jack, go ahead and remove the end-link nuts and slide the end links out of the sway bar. To loosen these you fit the appropriate hex-key in the middle and turn the nut with the open-ended 14mm wrench:

*PICS TO BE POSTED TONIGHT*

Now remove the bushings from the car, these bolts are 12mm:

*PICS TO BE POSTED TONIGHT*

Now is when it gets interesting. The Sus. Tech. Instructions say to remove the trailing arms, but instead we're going to drop the whole strut/control arm assembly by a few inches by removing the upper strut mount nuts. To get to these you need to remove your trunk/hatch panels, it's mostly snaps and silly Toyota snap-screw things, and 2 philips screws beside the seat on hatchback (not sure on coupe):

*PICS TO BE POSTED TONIGHT*

With the plastics out of the way, remove the 3 12mm nuts holding each strut assembly. You may want someone to hold the hubs while you do this so they don't crash down on the ground, or place blocks under them. Now lower each strut about 3 inches to give you some room to work the sway bar out of the car.

This is when pics can't help anymore:
You need to work the sway bar out of the car. Lots of pulling and twisting and weaseling through all the underbody works. I really have no way to describe it, but if you've done the front you'll have an idea. Just be careful of the fuel lines

With the old sway bar out, slide the new one in (harder since it's bigger). After it's in, go ahead and grease up the new bushings and mount them to the car. The new Sus. Tech bolts are 13mm heads, so get them tightened in just enough to hold the bar in place. Re-attach the struts, then attach the end-links to the sway bar. The outer hole is softer to give oversteer, the inner is for understeer. Everything else is just re-assembly! Make sure everything is tightened down right before driving, and enjoy!

[DeW_H0e_GT]

more detailed instructions compared ot the other how-to..pics would be helpful tho....

on the part where u bolt the new bars in...how tight do u need to tighten it?...im kinda worried that if i tighten too much it would jus not have free play...OR too loose n itll come off when im cutting thru corners.....your enlightenment plz.........

[blu94gt]

more detailed instructions compared ot the other how-to..pics would be helpful tho....

on the part where u bolt the new bars in...how tight do u need to tighten it?...im kinda worried that if i tighten too much it would jus not have free play...OR too loose n itll come off when im cutting thru corners.....your enlightenment plz.........

on tightening the bushings, you want to get them pretty tight, i would say i torqued them about as much as i would do a lugnut. for the endlink nuts, make them as tight as possible.

[DeW_H0e_GT]

gotcha...so ..... make em tight as possible?....jus not tight enough to break anything?

[blu94gt]

gotcha...so ..... make em tight as possible?....jus not tight enough to break anything?

yeah, you don't want that thing working it's way off of the car haha

[Batman722]

what about this

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=31819

from the sticky ?

[blu94gt]

what about this

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=31819

from the sticky ?

I read that a lot when doing mine, but for many of us who aren't able to get our muffler totally off of the car I feel my write up may be a bit handier. My muffler has been on for all of the 135,000 miles, and the bolts holding it to the exhaust are just rusted into nubs, and I didn't feel like torching it off haha.

Sorry about the delay on pics guys ,the past few days have been totally hectic and weird.

[95CelicaST]

How long did it take to install? And did you tune it to Under or Oversteer?

[DeW_H0e_GT]

blu..wheres teh pics bro?....i kno u busy...buncha of us jus ordered them s/t sways...