How much would I get for my AMP?, I have a 4 channel 700 WATT AMP Options

[hioctane]

My dad gave me an amplifier. It's a no name brand amp and it's a 4 channel 700 watt amplifier. I want to sell it but i have no idea of the pricing...........

[Zephyr]

Unless the amp is about three square feet in size and weighs 30 pounds it can't possibly have that many watts. It's most likely WalMart junk. A real 700 watt amp would cost near a thousand dollars.

[nicksceli]

Zephyr everything you stated in your post is wrong. a 700 watt amp is not gonna be 3 square feet and weigh 30 lbsand also "a real 700 watt amp" would cost no where near a thousand dollars.

i would say you could get between 75 and 125 for it though. or find some local idiot and sell to the for like 200 or so. lots of people dont know much about amps and stuff so they will over pay for it if you make it sound good

[hioctane]

cool... cause my amp isn't 3 feet and it doesnt weigh 30 lbs

its like 2 feet and weighs like 15 pounds

[Zephyr]

I don't mean to start a huge arguement or anything, but if I'm wrong, how come an MTX amp pushing a monstrous 125 watts to four channels costs $649 retail? That's "only" 500 watts, so this 700 watt amp, if it's worth anything, would cost more, right?

I guess an amp could have 700 watts stamped on it if that refers to it's bridged power into two seperate channels at 2 ohms or something like that. Something that could be stable at those specs isn't very common and the rarity of an amp like that would make it extremely expensive. I guess since that MTX I mentioned pushes 500 watts into two channels when its bridged, it could then be referred to as an 1000 watt amp, but usually an amp is referred to by its rating. A 50 X 4 amp, which can sufficiently push four mid tweet combos and a sub, is a 200 watt amp, and those things aren't cheap. Multiply that out a few times to make up for the 500 watt difference between it and this 700 watt monster, and you're looking at a lot of money.

As far as size and weight, my 50 X 4 is only 9 inches by 11 inches, and it weighs just over 8 pounds. Something pushing 700 watts in whatever configuration, would have to be bigger and heavier.

But then again, I don't know anything about it...

[Zephyr]

hioctane,

I just saw your reply. Chances are with it being that long and weighing 15 pounds, it's a good enough amp. I'd still be hesitant to say it's a 700 watt amp though, but that's just me.

We need somebody who really knows about this stuff and isn't just a layman to clear us up. I just noticed that my 50 X 4 is rated a 25 X 4 at 4 ohms. It doesn't become a 50 X 4 until you put it into 2 ohms, and I'm pretty sure that means you have to wire up two seperate 4 ohm speakers on each right and left channel to get that. I used to think I knew enough about this stuff to hold my own in a conversation, but after seeing that on my amp, I'm totally confused.

Like I said, I'm just a layman and I don't know anything...

[hioctane]

its says 700 watts
175 watts X 4 channels
I'll have a pic of it later once my batteries are charged

[No0bOne]

Nice sig

[Supersprynt]

I had a Power Acoustik Hammer 1100 - its 1100 watts. Now i got that when i was a junior in high school - nearly 5 yrs ago...and it still works. Its pretty long, about 2 feet, but probably 8 inches top to bottom. I bought it for 200 used. I definately got my money's worth.

This post has been edited by Supersprynt: Jun 26, 2003 - 8:31 AM

[nicksceli]

zephyr sorry if offended you in any way i was just stating what i know for my personal experience. i have a 400 watt rms one channel amp in my trunk and its only about 10x12 inches. and i just setup my friends system and his amp is a 2 channel 800 watt amp. when amps are rated they usuallsy go by the peak power to make it sound like its better than it really is so you have to look at the rms watts which is the constant power being fed to the speaker. thats my understanding of how the ratings work correct me if i m wrong i dont know that much about the technical crap involved with this stuff

[Quante]

"no name brand" says it all. prolly costs 200 new, so what can you ask for it... as said before, I think 75-125 is a very good price.

This post has been edited by Quante: Jun 28, 2003 - 12:15 PM

[AudioFreak]

QUOTE (Zephyr @ Jun 25, 2003 - 7:22 PM)

We need somebody who really knows about this stuff and isn't just a layman to clear us up.

Let me see if I can clear this up.

You may see power specified in several different ways. The most conservative and reliable is continuous average power (sometimes also called, RMS power). This is the maximum power the amplifier can deliver without interruption. Usually this is expressed per channel (50 watts x 2, for example, for a two-channel amplifier), but in some cases you may see a total power spec that adds the power for all channels together. (The amplifier in the example above would have a total continuous power rating of 100 watts.) Manufacturers sometimes use more impressive, but less realistic, "maximum" or "peak" power ratings, which are based on the maximum output an amplifier can deliver very briefly. An amplifier that would have a rating of 50 watts per channel continous might be rated 100 watts per channel peak. So make sure any power specs you use for comparison are of the same type.

Power ratings normally include the impedance of the load used for the measurement. In car stereo, it usually is 4 ohms, since that's the impedance of most car stereo speakers. Sometimes you will see a 2-ohm rating, since most car amps will produce more power into 2 ohms than into 4. This is relevant only if you have a 2-ohm speaker configuration, however, such as multiple subwoofers wired in parallel.

To see if an amplifier is even capable of putting out the power it claims look at the fuse it requires. Take the wattage it claims and divide by the voltage (usually 12-14). The answer will be the amperage required to produce the wattage. This formula isn't super accurate but it gets you close. Remember that amps waste energy producing heat so whatever value you come up with will be if the amp didn't waste energy so the acutall fuse will be larger.

Take for example the MTX Thunder 942 List $650. Rated at 940 watts bridged into 4ohms at 14.4 volt. 940/14.4=65.27. So in a perfect world you would need at least a 66 amp fuse. MTX requires a 150 amp fuse for this amp.

Now let's look at a Boss Klash K680 List $239. Rated at 1400 watts bridged. 1400/14.4 (I'll use 14.4 to keep it even) = 97.22. And boss requires a 40 amp fuse. 40 amps of current at 14.4 volt can get you a max of 576 watts.

I know this is a little long and a little boring but there is no easy way to explain it. Just remember if it seems too good to be true, it probably is.

[Guest_Matthew_*]

Audio Freak is the man.


It also depends on if its a digital amp (Class D) or analog amp


Digital amps are far more efficient than any analog amp and they are up to half the size when comparably speaking.


I have Two 2,250 Planet Audio amps. And they are big. But not near as big as some power acoustik amps that I have seen that are half the power capability.


The Planet amp is class D and the P. A. is analog.