shutter while cruising Options

[rjbibeau]

i just got tuned on thursday at the dyno...only made 6psi cuz i have a clocked turbo and the actuator the way i have it mounted must not be closing properly. i trailered the car back and took the car for a cruise on sat. At 3000 rpm i get this once in awhile occuring shutter like the throttle stops and then regains itself. probably a misfire. and then i can't go above 5,000 rpm it hits a brick wall. also it threw a CEL so i got to autozone today to see what code it is. it's a misfire cylinder #1 and also of a lean mixture. would this explain my symtoms. lady said it's probably your FPR...this will give you excessive gas consumption. could the the stock regulator give me these problems? or am i supposed to be running an adjustable FPR. I'll ohm test the wires to see if they pass. the plugs all look good and the cap and rotor are relatively new.

also a question on those AEM universal FPR. i undersand you have to set base FP at 43. i have been reading to use a 1:1 ratio....is this somehow incorporated into this unit or does it have to be manually set. i know the vortech FMU is capable of doing this but is the AEM the one i want?

This post has been edited by rjbibeau: Jun 7, 2008 - 12:48 PM

[lagos]

What kind of corrections were made to your safc during the turning?
My guess is that since you only hit so little boost, they had to remove a lot of fuel (air flow signal) and this is causing your ecu to give you a lot of timing advance and causing the missfire. You would actually be safer running more boost, and less corrections.

This post has been edited by lagos: Jun 7, 2008 - 12:55 PM

[rjbibeau]

i'm runnig the perfect power smt6 fuel system. am i able to keep the stock FPR on my rail with my current setup after i fix the wastegate issue so i can boost 10psi.

would posting my fuel and ignition maps on here give a little better understanding

This post has been edited by rjbibeau: Jun 7, 2008 - 1:06 PM

[lagos]

How does the smt6 remove fuel? Does it wire into your map sensor, or directly into your injectors? If it does it through the map sensor, then its no different then an safc.
Do you have dyno sheets with your a/f ratio you can post?

If I were you, I would buy a wideband before buying an fpr.

This post has been edited by lagos: Jun 7, 2008 - 1:29 PM

[rjbibeau]

it taps into the map sensor. i'll post the dyno sheet soon as i can get ahold of a scanner. i'll post the maps and such when i get my g/f's lappy...their saved on there. it's almost like it being robbed of fuel. i'm gonna get a fuel pressure gauge to see if the regulator is working properly. it could even be a filter issue.

[95celicastLSR]

To me it sounds like ur car is tuned at WOT and nothing else its a set back from using safc..also sounds like ur having timming issue..AEM makes a piggy back system that controls fuel and ignition and the correction is 100% rather than the safc wich is about 50%..the best thing about it is if u take a n/a car and boost it your goin to run in to alot or timming issues and risk running to lean and detination so this piggy back allows you to correct the timming check it out on AEM's web site..its made for n/a cars being boosted and it is better software then the greddy emange...hope this helps you out a lil bit man..

[rjbibeau]

i haven't heard anything bad about the smt6 unit that's why i am wondering. you're right that the tuning was probably done at wot becuase he was making pulls on the dyno and then making corrections accordingly. are these places supposed to be doing it both ways?

[95celicastLSR]

i haven't heard anything bad about the smt6 unit that's why i am wondering. you're right that the tuning was probably done at wot becuase he was making pulls on the dyno and then making corrections accordingly. are these places supposed to be doing it both ways?

i would imagine its best to have it tuned completly but it depends on what ur using to tune your car with but i would ask them if it will make a diffrance what your using to tune ur car and if u cant do anything about the shutter you may just want to cruise in a diff. gear or stay away from the 3000 rpm, id imagine thats when ur car starts to make power/boost..