Front suspension issue, read and discuss ! |
Front suspension issue, read and discuss ! |
Oct 13, 2008 - 2:54 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Apr 17, '06 From New Jersey Currently Offline Reputation: 105 (100%) |
around 7 months ago, I had an encounter with a curb at 45 MPH, the driver side rear suspension suffered from a bent tie rod ( replaced ) and driver side front suffer from damaged ball joint, hub and wheel bearing ( all replaced ) after all these, I got a little noise when I was driving at the ratio of once per revolution ( wheels not engine ), so I though the rotor got bent, that's when I did my 7th gen front brake conversion using EBC slotted rotors, TRD pads and SS brake lines, now almost 2500 miles after my brake swap, I'm getting the same noise and now I get brake noise when braking only from the driver side I started reading about possible cause and apparently the HUB is rotating abnormally causing the brake pads to slightly touch the rotor at some point during the rotation, causing an uneven wear on the rotor thus causing the noise and vibration when braking. My question is now, what should I replace ? I have inspected the inner and outer tie rod to check if they were bent and they appear fine to me, and so did the control arm. what else is there to look at ? I'm ordering a set of rods ( inner / outer ) to replace them anyways, but I want this problem to go away so if there is anything else, let me know. BTW all parts except the rotors. pads and SS brake lines are OEM from the dealer. -------------------- |
Oct 13, 2008 - 5:39 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 7, '03 From Northern Virginia Currently Offline Reputation: 23 (100%) |
have you checked for rotor/hub runout.
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Oct 13, 2008 - 5:58 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Apr 17, '06 From New Jersey Currently Offline Reputation: 105 (100%) |
how do I check it ?
This post has been edited by Culpable04: Oct 13, 2008 - 5:58 PM -------------------- |
Oct 14, 2008 - 10:59 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 6, '08 From Oregon Currently Offline Reputation: 8 (100%) |
how do I check it ? You will need some precision measuring equipment, pref with a magnetic base. Something similar to dial calipers, only it measures the compression of the pin IE telling you that one side is pushing in more than the other side... -------------------- 1 JL 1,000/1v2
2 JL 12" W6v2 2 Focal 6.5 component 165a1 Kenwood DDX512 head unit Running 142.6db with the back seat up:) |
Oct 14, 2008 - 12:29 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Apr 17, '06 From New Jersey Currently Offline Reputation: 105 (100%) |
so basically I have to make sure that the rotor is perfectly aligned with the hub, and if it's not ? how I adjust this by tight to specific torque with a torque wrench ? if so what torque ?
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Oct 14, 2008 - 10:46 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Apr 17, '06 From New Jersey Currently Offline Reputation: 105 (100%) |
ok so I got the following readings
.007 Inch for lateral runout and the rotor is already garbage as it can't be machined ( slotted ) so new rotors are on the works and will measure the runout on them torque to specs, as far as I've read, the runout has to be .002 or lower and the only source of problem is the rotor or improperly torque lugs, so with this new rotors I'm hoping this will go away -------------------- |
Oct 15, 2008 - 11:21 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 6, '08 From Oregon Currently Offline Reputation: 8 (100%) |
ok so I got the following readings .007 Inch for lateral runout and the rotor is already garbage as it can't be machined ( slotted ) so new rotors are on the works and will measure the runout on them torque to specs, as far as I've read, the runout has to be .002 or lower and the only source of problem is the rotor or improperly torque lugs, so with this new rotors I'm hoping this will go away Keep us updated, you are on the right track... -------------------- 1 JL 1,000/1v2
2 JL 12" W6v2 2 Focal 6.5 component 165a1 Kenwood DDX512 head unit Running 142.6db with the back seat up:) |
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