How to change break pads? Options

[kcizzle]

Wasup everyone! Haven't been here for a long time. I plan on changing my brake pads this summer, can someone point me to a link on how to change the breaks stickies? I know there's a search tool but it returns a lot of stuff, and I am lazy to look at them all. Thanks! appreciate it!

[BonzaiCelica]

wait wait wait. let me get this straight. im taking a look at your profile. you seem to have quite a nice celica and some pretty good decent mods. it says you did all of them by urself. but you don't know how to change brake pads.

ask local autoshop or look online. its pretty straight forward. when you take out pads, the caliper piston/cylinder will come out a little. when pushing it back in with a c-clamp, make sure the cylinder goes in slowly or your brake fluid will overflow...

[ZGear]

Just a quick off of my head

1. Disconnect negative terminal from battery. (Just to be on the safe side, dunno why, but book says it)
2. Make sure the rear wheel is stable and blocked off so no movements. Loosen the lug nuts of the tire you're about to perform the brake pad replacement, do not fully remove the lug nuts, keep a good 4/5 of thread on the studs.
3. Then apply the e-brake and proceed to jack the car up.
4. Remove the lug nut and the wheel
5. Here you see the wheel hub (rotor), caliper, and the caliper brace.
6. The caliper has a retaining bolt on the top and at the bottom. The bolt consist of the outter bolt, rubber boot cover, and then a washer. You're going to need a cresent wrench for the washer. Then whatever tools you have that are available to pry the bolt off the end. To loosen, the bolt on the end needs to turn towards the back of the car, while the cresent wrench holding the washer remains still. This procedure requires both hands.
7. Once loosened, move next to the bottom retaining bolt.
8. Once the bolts have come off you shold be able to remove the caliper and rest it on your axle or set it aside.
9. The brake pads are and should be held with two metal clips in a shape of a "v", keep in mind that you need to keep these for later installment, DO NOT LOSE THESE! You may have to clean these.
10. Keep in mind how the pads look like when they're on the caliper brace. The backside should have a metal clip that veers to the side whereas the frontside brake pad you see in front of you has none but a metal backing.
11. Remove the brake pads and check for any sign of unusual worn down markings, may result from warped rotor. If so get new rotors and install. If not proceed to preping your new brakes with brake grease as shown on the package. Once lubed up, install the pads and the metal clip holding it.
12. At this point you will need a c-clamp to tighten down the brake piston that pushes the brakes together on the caliper. (Required if you didn't bleed your brakes, also if you did bleed your brakes and it's still stubborn to move back in)
13. Once retained the proper depth, install the caliper back on and reinstall the retaining bolts. Make sure you torque it to spec or just to a very good amount of hand strength.
14. Reinstall wheel and lug nuts. Tighten lug nuts just enough by hand strength.
15. Lower the car and proceed to tighten the lug nut again with force. Again to spec, or use your weight down on it.
16. Remove any objects that are in the way of any wheels that you used to immoblize the car.
17. Pump the brakes until it feels like it's back to strength. Start the engine and pump again as some of the brake fluid may have shifted when you used the c-clamp. Once you feel that it is ok, ease off the e-brake and slowly let go of the brake.
18. If all goes to plan, your brakes should have worked.

[missmoster]

hi instead of just pushing the fluid back through the system i recommend that you have a bottle with a tube that fits over the bleed nipple and open the bleed nipple then push the piston back, rather than forcing the old fluid back through the system also it can cause damage to the seals if you do it with force also remeber to replace the lost fluid with new.

[Rusty]

hi instead of just pushing the fluid back through the system i recommend that you have a bottle with a tube that fits over the bleed nipple and open the bleed nipple then push the piston back, rather than forcing the old fluid back through the system also it can cause damage to the seals if you do it with force also remeber to replace the lost fluid with new.

agreed, thats the system we also use

[jimmykay]

i just replaced a rear caliper that had seized up on me this past weekend. so here we go.

break the lugs loose
jack up the car
remove the wheel
get a screw driver and pry the caliper closed from the top.
you only need to remove 1 bolt. our calipers have a pivot pin and a bolt. instead of 2 bolts
grab something like a 12,13,14mm socket ( i forget which one it is)
removed the bolt that has that rubber corrugated boot.
pivot the caliper up
remove the old pads
put the break squealing stuff on the new pads and slide them back in the grooves
rotate the caliper back down
reassemble.

[kcizzle]

Thanks all for the feedback!

[Galcobar]

Go to local auto parts shop. Buy a Chilton's manual.

[garin]

Go to local auto parts shop. Buy a Chilton's manual.

Chilton > haynes btw.

[ZGear]

Go to local auto parts shop. Buy a Chilton's manual.

Chilton > haynes btw.

Agreed!

For the 7afe, in the Haynes they tell you to refer to the 4afe motor......sad.

This post has been edited by ZGear: Mar 15, 2009 - 5:58 PM

[Galcobar]

I actually have a Haynes' for my fifth-gen, but I've never seen one for a sixth-gen, thus the Chilton's suggestion. Then again, the border does tend to reduce product selection...