Discuss: Intermittent Engine stumbling/Kick only at idle, Feeling it in the seat |
Discuss: Intermittent Engine stumbling/Kick only at idle, Feeling it in the seat |
Oct 29, 2009 - 8:14 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Apr 27, '09 From West Coast Canada Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
What could cause this? What are your ideas.
5s-ge (Soon to be boosted, yea, not a 5s-fe, or 3s-gte) ran great up until the other day when it started to kick and i noticed oil in spark tube 2, small amount in 3. The valve cover seals show no sign of leaking into the plug wells. Gas milage is also ****, probably due to the missfiring in which ever cylinder. Im just curious if this is a chain of issues or if its just due to the oil. Once it gear the stumbling subsides but it still present just not as violent and often. Once you get moving you cannot feel it what so ever, altho there is a small loss of power Idle@718RPM Compression: 1-215/2-205/3-205/4-200 Fluids: Full Tune: Modified 3s-ge OEM programming (-0097, 0.23+, 2.338^) Econ: 21.6mpg (was 27.8) This post has been edited by Mstoochn: Oct 29, 2009 - 8:18 PM |
Oct 29, 2009 - 8:27 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 11, '06 From Way South Chicago Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
replace the valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals as well as plug wires and possibly plugs, go from there.
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Oct 29, 2009 - 8:48 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Apr 27, '09 From West Coast Canada Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
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Oct 30, 2009 - 8:41 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 11, '06 From Way South Chicago Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
replace the valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals as well as plug wires and possibly plugs, go from there. what the **** do plug wires and the valve cover have to do with oil IN the tube never mind, i obviously don't know what i'm talking about. because the words 'spark plug tube seal' mean nothing to do with the thats in your spark plug tubes. because a part named spark plug tube seal wouldnt possibly seal the spark plug tube from the engine oil. its all under the valve cover, i guess its upto your discretion if you want to replace the valve cover gasket when doing this repair or not, i'd highly suggest doing that. as for the spark plug wires? i guess if you want it to keep misfiring because they're oil soaked and arcing to the spark plug tubes then don't replace those either. you know what, you're right...**** any of those repairs right? just keep on driving. -------------------- |
Oct 30, 2009 - 8:52 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 8, '08 From Orlando, Florida Currently Offline Reputation: 14 (100%) |
lol. mstoochn, you ask for help, and Bitter gives you some very plausible things to check and change and you criticize his helpful info? How does that make anyone want to help you?! At least try what he says, i have a very good feeling one of those things will solve your problem.
But since you seem to know it all, you figure it out. Bitter, i see why you are so....... Bitter. lol. I get it now. This post has been edited by samir0189: Oct 30, 2009 - 8:54 PM -------------------- ◊◊◊ My F/S Thread! ◊◊◊
QUOTE (14:19:21) Daniel: That was a JDM hole in the side of the box too. There was so much JDM trapped inside that box that they couldn't contain it, so they had to put a JDM hole in the box to let the JDM out. QUOTE Ferdi says (11:29) No, it looks like a hooker put her acid vag on your hood. Acid vag = bigger problem than a few dings. |
Oct 30, 2009 - 9:09 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Apr 27, '09 From West Coast Canada Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
well okay, for lack of mentioning it early the oil hasn't made it to the PLUG WIRES, they are not soaked and have not swelled up at all. as for a valve cover gasket, it was replaced already this is a BRAND NEW engine see my thread in forced induction, as well as, as long as u clean the gasket and valve cover properly u can reuse an intact gasket.
I pulled the plugs and drained the oil, issue seems to be gone, im sure oil will appear and I will do it again. This post has been edited by Mstoochn: Oct 30, 2009 - 9:14 PM |
Oct 30, 2009 - 9:37 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 11, '06 From Way South Chicago Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
the spark plug tube seals are obviously leaking, those need to be replaced or oil will keep getting into there and causing misfires. yes, if the gasket is new it can be reused, just remember to re-apply the sealant to the areas that need it.
the tube seals can be bought separately from the valve cover from toyota for a few dollars each (like $1.50 or something). i do not remember if they're a gasket at the bottom of the tube and the tube threads into the head or if they're a gasket at the top retained into the valve cover by little metal tabs that are bent over onto the gasket to hold it in place. when installing the tube seals make sure they're mating correctly to the tube, a good cheat is to wipe the seal with a little dab of silicone around the seal to ensure a good seal to the tube, just be sure to let it cure for 24hrs before running the car. This post has been edited by Bitter: Oct 30, 2009 - 9:37 PM -------------------- |
Oct 30, 2009 - 10:25 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Apr 27, '09 From West Coast Canada Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
the spark plug tube seals are obviously leaking, those need to be replaced or oil will keep getting into there and causing misfires. yes, if the gasket is new it can be reused, just remember to re-apply the sealant to the areas that need it. the tube seals can be bought separately from the valve cover from toyota for a few dollars each (like $1.50 or something). i do not remember if they're a gasket at the bottom of the tube and the tube threads into the head or if they're a gasket at the top retained into the valve cover by little metal tabs that are bent over onto the gasket to hold it in place. when installing the tube seals make sure they're mating correctly to the tube, a good cheat is to wipe the seal with a little dab of silicone around the seal to ensure a good seal to the tube, just be sure to let it cure for 24hrs before running the car. this is a 3s-gte head, the tubes are forged with the head, not a 5s-fe head where they unscrew I reset the center tube gasket hoping that would fix it, but after 2 tanks of gas its starting to drip again. Whatver i give up. |
Oct 31, 2009 - 8:30 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 11, '06 From Way South Chicago Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
then the seals are still not installed correctly, if they're on right then they don't leak. are they new seals? try new seals and glue them in with some silicone to the valve cover and run a thin bead around the top of the tube when you install the valve cover. that should seal them up and prevent oil from leaking in.
btw, they're not forged with the head, they're actually pressed fit into the head. it could be possible for it to be leaking down where its pressed into there but highly unlikely. try adding some UV dye to your oil and see if theres a trace down the inside of the tube from the top or not. -------------------- |
Oct 31, 2009 - 1:15 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Apr 27, '09 From West Coast Canada Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
then the seals are still not installed correctly, if they're on right then they don't leak. are they new seals? try new seals and glue them in with some silicone to the valve cover and run a thin bead around the top of the tube when you install the valve cover. that should seal them up and prevent oil from leaking in. btw, they're not forged with the head, they're actually pressed fit into the head. it could be possible for it to be leaking down where its pressed into there but highly unlikely. try adding some UV dye to your oil and see if theres a trace down the inside of the tube from the top or not. apon assembly "uv shake" was added and there seems to be no sign of a leak below. gasket has been reseated, i siliconed the **** out of it lol leaks seems to be in just cylinder 3 now. poor baby is only making 3 cylinders worth of power oh well, it stills beats Vtec's. 5s-ge FTW |
Oct 31, 2009 - 2:32 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 11, '06 From Way South Chicago Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
11214-88560 is the toyota number for the seal you need, its actually one large part with the seals all connected, not like the newer style they're using. i think i was also mistaken, i was thinking the tubes are a steel tube pressed into the head which is not correct. only way oil is getting in there is from the top around that seal. iirc the seal only goes in one way to seal correctly but its possible it got flipped. are you sure the bolts are all torqued to the correct amount? too tight or too loose can cause leaks. there could also be a defect in where the gasket sets on the valve cover or head. make sure there are no scrapes or knicks/scratches.
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Oct 31, 2009 - 2:46 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Apr 27, '09 From West Coast Canada Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
11214-88560 is the toyota number for the seal you need, its actually one large part with the seals all connected, not like the newer style they're using. i think i was also mistaken, i was thinking the tubes are a steel tube pressed into the head which is not correct. only way oil is getting in there is from the top around that seal. iirc the seal only goes in one way to seal correctly but its possible it got flipped. are you sure the bolts are all torqued to the correct amount? too tight or too loose can cause leaks. there could also be a defect in where the gasket sets on the valve cover or head. make sure there are no scrapes or knicks/scratches. 53pounds, head surface is uniform. the set i have is an invididual seal for cyl 1 and 4, and 2,3 are a joined gasket seal. none attached the the valve cover. that is the part number of the package of the one i am using |
Oct 31, 2009 - 5:08 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 11, '06 From Way South Chicago Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
strange dude, 53 ft/lb? more like 53 inch/lb!
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Nov 1, 2009 - 2:49 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Apr 27, '09 From West Coast Canada Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
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