7afe Weird idle, Boxer engine Options

[96stgreendemon]

So heres the thing, about a week ago she stared to idle kind of funny, not really a rough idle but definately different than normal, the closest thing i can compare it too is sounding like a boxer engine.
Anyone else have this issue or tell me whats going on?
On a side note, oil was changed recently, she has new platnum plugs, new wires, its in the right firing order, new belts etc, i take good car of this car.
Someone help

[Bitter]

bosch platinum plugs right?

[96stgreendemon]

no NKG plugs

[Bitter]

double check order of wires on cap.

[SupraKid]

If the wiring is off:
#1:Its gonna run like **** and will be noticeable
#2:Its really hard to wire it wrong as the wires are different lengths

Are the revs varying at all?Drives normal?

[96stgreendemon]

No revs are fine, and i know how to wire my plugs, just confused as to why its doing this, im gonna have a look at the plugs tomorrow and see if one is fould really bad or whats going on

[SupraKid]

Is the rev maybe lower or higher than your used to?

Just FYI i picture a boxer engine to sound like this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mhS2meqgduc

That fluctuating,raspy pos noise..

This post has been edited by SupraKid: Dec 26, 2010 - 9:53 PM

[96stgreendemon]

no it only sounds like a subi when im sitting still like at a light

[HectortheRican]

no it only sounds like a subi when im sitting still like at a light

Is it idling at about 800 or 750 while you're at a light and it idles all rough and shakes the wheel? I've had that problem with my 7A ever since I've had it. It only does it when it's warmed up right? Not right away.

[cheela]

no it only sounds like a subi when im sitting still like at a light

Is it idling at about 800 or 750 while you're at a light and it idles all rough and shakes the wheel? I've had that problem with my 7A ever since I've had it. It only does it when it's warmed up right? Not right away.

yeah, same here.

[Hanyo]

No revs are fine, and i know how to wire my plugs, just confused as to why its doing this, im gonna have a look at the plugs tomorrow and see if one is fould really bad or whats going on

I had the same problem with my 7afe once.

I power washed the engine and some water got into one of the spark plug wires. This cause the engine to lose spark on one of the cylinders. The car would run and idle fine but the sound was like a Subaru boxer engine.

You can test the problem out by leaving your engine idling and removing the spark plug wires with the engine running. Becarefull not to shock yourself on the spark. If you can unplug a wire that does not change how the car is currently running you found the problem.

You either have a dud spark plug wire, spark plug or distributor cap.

Good luck and dont drive your car too much you risk destroying your catalytic converter.

[95celicastLSR]

im going to assume its a miss by what ur describing just a small one will make it idle ruff (lumpy) like a subaru ... i would replace the cap and rotor to eliminate the tune up issue's since u have new plugs and wires... could be an injector going bad ........ lets us know what happens after that ...

[DEATH]

I had my coil start to go, and symptoms were slightly rough idle, and random misfires under certain engine loads, nothing definate or constant.
You can also try to clean out your throttle body and IAC valve. take it off&apart and use brake/carb cleaner to get it all clean.. makes the old 7As run much better

BTW this is stephen_lee, not DEATH

vvv [This is DE@TH] vvv

When MY coil went I couldn't run anything higher than 3K RPMs once the car got warm and it was very constant
We need more help with your symptoms to help you
BTW - A tuneup is incomplete and you haven't really done much for it untill you change your cap and rotor. They really can effect performance on these engines. I've been known to change my plugs every 6mos and my Cap and rotor every 3mos [When I'm being OCD about it]. Wires I let go usually a year or two but I buy TRD wires and they aren't easy to find and last long. And only OEM will do on the C&R. Parts house cap and rotors run like old OEM ones - the price difference is negligible anyway.

This post has been edited by DEATH: Jan 2, 2011 - 9:59 AM

[96stgreendemon]

Thanks guys, i was thinking that it was a fuel issue so bought a bottle of injector cleaner, i drove her 100 miles straight the other day and she ran fine and would still move like she used to.
as far as more descriptive goes when it drops below a grand is usually when i hear it most, so cap and rotor are on the list i guess, need it anyways, but i will upload a video when i get home, im over 600 miles away from the car right now

[HectortheRican]

Thanks guys, i was thinking that it was a fuel issue so bought a bottle of injector cleaner, i drove her 100 miles straight the other day and she ran fine and would still move like she used to.
as far as more descriptive goes when it drops below a grand is usually when i hear it most, so cap and rotor are on the list i guess, need it anyways, but i will upload a video when i get home, im over 600 miles away from the car right now

Yeah, I've tried Gumout fuel system cleaner more than once and she stills idles like that under 1k, but otherwise, she's completely fine!

This post has been edited by HectortheRican: Jan 2, 2011 - 12:55 PM

[GilVilla]

I have the same problem =( a lumpy idle, has anyone resolved the problem?

[stephen_lee]

check your compression. i have low compression on one cylinder and it idles lumpy

[4-eyed-freek]

i know it sounds stupid but i had the worst idle problems for awhile..put some heat in it, and it has never ran beter!

[stephen_lee]

heat ?

[HectortheRican]

heat ?

x2

shwiggity shwaa???