In need of more assistance from expirienced engine builders, moving on to the next step: bearings. |
In need of more assistance from expirienced engine builders, moving on to the next step: bearings. |
Dec 17, 2011 - 4:23 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined May 4, '05 From western MD/NOVA Currently Offline Reputation: 2 (100%) |
hello all, as some of you may know i am in the process of re-building my Lil 7Afe. unfortunately i am at an impasse, and have exhausted all of the on hand available information. and once again am in need of you experienced builders out there...
but before i go and ask the question i will give you the relevant information. this pertains to engine bearings, for both the rods and the mains. now, my block has the markings for OEM main bearings numbers:1,2,2,2,2 using plastiguage the clearances for the bearings were: #1=.002, #2=.002, #3=.0015. #4=.002, #5=.0015 on the crank it is marked 1 11 11 i also checked the markings on the bearings:#1=D6D 0 T2, #2=D6D L T3, #3=D6D L T3, #4=D6D L T3, #5=D6D L T3. i measured and rechecked all of the measurements and markings, so this is accurate. the journals on the crank and the bearings show light signs of wear. the crank nothing that cant be polished out, the bearing ima just replace. thus far it looks like the designation on the bearings and the the block line up with the number one bearing being the only one that is different. but the fact that the num-3 and num-5 bearings were measured at .0015 does concern me (if anything that would mean that they are a bit tighter right?). i do not know just as to how much of a difference that means but it does throw in one more variance that i am thinking that i need to compensate for (unless im over analyzing this, i don't know this is my first time doing this..). On to the rods, they look to be much simpler.. all of the rods were measured at .002 all of the rods bearings had the designation of : D6D B 2 and on the rod itself (on the side opposite of the side that shows you have the correct cap with the correct rod by making and "M", those of you who have seen this will know what im talking about) the rod is marked with 2 51 so, on to my questions.. it looks like ordering bearings for the rods will be simple since they all look to be be the same size and there is no deference in clearance on em. i am looking to get some ACL bearings for both the rods and the mains. unfortunately, that is as far as i can go. my Haynes manual has some piss poor chart that trys to explain what all the information is supposed to let you know what bearings to order, and the online BGB only takes it one step farther by saying what the thickness of the bearings should be based on the numbered marking, but all of this information still does not help me at all since no matter if im looking at e-bay, or looking at ordering strait from ACL all sizes on purchase sites are marked as "standard", or a selection on "over" sizes.. yeah and one more thing, for the rods i would like to get just the "regular/base" ACL bearings since i plan on replacing the rods within the next two years w/ some belfab ones. but the crank i would like to spring for the next lvl up bearings that ACL offers since they will be in there for a wile and later be seeing boost for sure. SO.. can anyone help me with letting me know just as to WHAT bearings i am supposed to order? i do not really need for any of you to "do" the work for me , but if you could simplify this a bit for me, and let me know what "size" i should order, that would be of IMMENSE HELP!!!! once again thank you in advance to anyone who is able to help me with this.. if you need pix or more information (though i think i got it covered) please just ask and or let me know... also if any of you have ay suggestions that would help, do not hesitate. i am open to any, just don't flame, this IS my first time doing this and i feel that i am doing pretty well for it being so.. thank you nick Oh and THIS is what i am looking at for the bearings -------------------- |
Dec 20, 2011 - 2:30 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jun 7, '11 From so cal Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
when you use and aftermarket brand you really can't change the measurements because in the set those bearings come with the same clerances, those markings on the rods works when you use the original toyota ones, because they make bearings with different clearances. thats the advantage of using the original bearings beacause if you want to build a tight motor or loose motor depending on your application you can. i have used acl, cleviete and king racing bearings before. hope this helps a little.
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Dec 20, 2011 - 3:47 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined May 4, '05 From western MD/NOVA Currently Offline Reputation: 2 (100%) |
when you use and aftermarket brand you really can't change the measurements because in the set those bearings come with the sameclearancess, those markings on the rods works when you use the originalToyotaa ones, because they make bearings with different clearances. thats the advantage of using the original bearingsbecausee if you want to build a tight motor or loose motor depending on your application you can. i have used acl, cleviete and king racing bearings before. hope this helps a little. thank you for your reply 99gt3sge. I got the the idea of looser or tighter motor build, speced with the OEM bearings, but i was under the impreasion that the difference in specs on the bearings was to compensate for variations and discrepancies in manufacturing processes of the block, crank, and rods (and pistons). [explaining why i have number one of the main bearings is indicated different designation than the other 4, but is still speced in @ .002 oil clearance.] and that is why all of the markings various locations on the motor. and from what im seeing factory spec for the 7Afe is rather tight. And though im am interested in perhaps blueprinting the rotating assembly for a slightly looser build. At the moment im am more concerned just as to what the "Std., .25, .50, .75 and 1.0" from these aftermarket manufactures coralate to the OEM bearings that i have in the rotating assembly right now.. for instance if you were to tell me that the OEM bearings in my rod are in-fact = to a .25. or am i missing something here? are the + sizes for the aftermarket options there to provide additional matirial on the bearing, and the machine the machiene shop remove the correct material from the block/rods to provide the required clearance? -------------------- |
Dec 20, 2011 - 3:48 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined May 4, '05 From western MD/NOVA Currently Offline Reputation: 2 (100%) |
x2 post.. oops
This post has been edited by mandrek: Dec 20, 2011 - 3:48 AM -------------------- |
Dec 20, 2011 - 10:20 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Dec 8, '03 From Lancaster CA Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) |
have you not seen my thread on building a 7A-FE in the stickys? dont waste your $$$ on ACL bearings, they are a one size fits all and sometimes not quite right. by what you posted with all your clearances being .002 or .0015 you are right on the money. just get the same bearing that was in there. take your crank to a machine shop and have the journals polished. thats all you have to do.
ACL are ok bearings but i have seen inconsistencies in their designs. and some poor quality bearings also. once i got a bearing that literally had pits in it. just go OEM. and read my guide! -------------------- 2001 Celica GT-S Turbo
1997 Supra TT 6speed 1997 Celica 3MZ/1MZ swap 1990 Celica All-Trac |
Dec 20, 2011 - 2:32 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined May 4, '05 From western MD/NOVA Currently Offline Reputation: 2 (100%) |
have you not seen my thread on building a 7A-FE in the stickys? dont waste your $$$ on ACL bearings, they are a one size fits all and sometimes not quite right. by what you posted with all your clearances being .002 or .0015 you are right on the money. just get the same bearing that was in there. take your crank to a machine shop and have the journals polished. thats all you have to do. ACL are ok bearings but i have seen inconsistencies in their designs. and some poor quality bearings also. once i got a bearing that literally had pits in it. just go OEM. and read my guide! thank you smaay, yes i have read your guide, and it covers all of the actual work to be done on the motor quite well! it has defiantly helped alot! but as you can see my current perdicament is on the ordering of the parts. i apriciate the feed back on the ACL bearings, and are now looking at the OEM option. though more expencive. since you have done this before and it sounds like you did the actual parts ordering, if i were to use a web site like this or any of the other discount toyota parts distributors. do i reference the "mark" on the block ( the 1,2,2,2,2) and the "marks" on the rods ( the 2,2,2,2) as a reference to select the propor bearings? and that, THAT is what the "mark" is refering to on these sites? i feel that i am close, but i just want to be sure before i order the parts. im running out of time and money.. and i really dont want to get a situation were the parts i get dont work and im fu**ed. -------------------- |
Dec 21, 2011 - 12:09 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Dec 8, '03 From Lancaster CA Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) |
the BGB (big green book) has a cross chart. you match the numbers on the crank with numbers on the block to get the right bearing. as for rods, i have built at least 50 engines. every one was a #2 bearing. as for the engine, get the same bearing thats in there. you plastigauged them and they were good. so get the same size
-------------------- 2001 Celica GT-S Turbo
1997 Supra TT 6speed 1997 Celica 3MZ/1MZ swap 1990 Celica All-Trac |
Dec 21, 2011 - 1:15 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined May 16, '10 From Raleigh Currently Offline Reputation: 12 (100%) |
You guys are making me nervous! My 300+hp build is utilizing ACL bearings!
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Dec 21, 2011 - 2:09 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined May 4, '05 From western MD/NOVA Currently Offline Reputation: 2 (100%) |
the BGB (big green book) has a cross chart. you match the numbers on the crank with numbers on the block to get the right bearing. as for rods, i have built at least 50 engines. every one was a #2 bearing. as for the engine, get the same bearing thats in there. you plastigauged them and they were good. so get the same size OH!!! i get it now!!! thank you!!! i dont have a BGB i know i know, but till now have not needed one,... but thank you for clearing that up....wow.. i feel dumb.. so the size of the bearing is right there on the bearing itself!! duh!!!.. so the T2 and the T3 "marks" are the bearing size, and the and the block and crank indicators are there to simply give you a way of knowing what bearings to put in it should you not have the originals..!!! and all you have to do is add them.. so block "marks" 1,2,2,2,2 + crank "marks" :1,1,1,1,1 = bearing sizes: 2,3,3,3,3!!!! -------------------- |
Dec 21, 2011 - 4:03 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined May 4, '05 From western MD/NOVA Currently Offline Reputation: 2 (100%) |
i see alot of people saying that they use lithiatoyota when refering to purchasing OEM parts... does any one know if we get a discount from em through the forum? or is just that they have a good rep.. there prices are competative, but still a bit high.. i have seen lithiatoyota and a person named Aaron reffered to a good bit around here and MR2OC.com.. looking at 110 for the bearings alone and when on a tight budget (dident start that way, but work slowed wayyyyyyy down) that is a bit of a hard pill to swallow for a few slivers of metal.. lol..
either way thank you to all who have helped with the info, and the pointers!! especialy smaay!!! thanx!!! -------------------- |
Dec 22, 2011 - 5:38 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jun 7, '11 From so cal Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
no worries, what matters is that you were able to find your answer.
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Dec 22, 2011 - 10:43 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jan 19, '11 From Paraguay, Winchestertonfieldville Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
You guys are making me nervous! My 300+hp build is utilizing ACL bearings! x2 im aiming over 500 with n2o -------------------- |
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