 Help please! |
 Jun 20, 2012 - 11:53 PM
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Enthusiast  Joined Apr 3, '10 From sOcal Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%)  |
Hello! Yesterday on my way to pick up my dad from work my engine started stallin and died on me.. found out that my distributor cap and rotors were messed up and needed replacement. I finished replacing both cap and rotor today but when i took it for a test drive , when i hit past 3000 to 3500 RPM it idle back down and dies... Then it takes while before i can start again. Anyone have this problem before? how can i fix this? all help is appreciated. thank you!
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Jun 22, 2012 - 4:52 PM
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Enthusiast Joined Apr 3, '10 From sOcal Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
Bump! Help Please!
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Jun 22, 2012 - 6:26 PM
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 Enthusiast Joined May 13, '06 From Kaimuki, HI Currently Offline Reputation: 10 (100%) |
mid 90's v8 mustangs have this problem and it's the pickup inside the distributor, but I've also seen the same thing with the knock sensor and idle/air control valves. It could be a few things and isn't always one specific thing. Your best bet would be to see if you have any check engine codes, if your car is 96 or newer then you can drive it to your local autoparts store and see if they have an OBDII scanner. The ones here diagnose for free, and sometimes it's enough to point you in the right direction. Even if the check engine light isn't coming on there still might be a pending code(aka soft code), meaning that it doesn't happen often enough to trigger the check engine light but it is a problem that the ECU recognizes.
-------------------- -Jay
95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other 01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished 02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve |
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Jun 22, 2012 - 7:11 PM
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Enthusiast Joined Apr 3, '10 From sOcal Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
QUOTE (match220 @ Jun 22, 2012 - 3:26 PM)  mid 90's v8 mustangs have this problem and it's the pickup inside the distributor, but I've also seen the same thing with the knock sensor and idle/air control valves. It could be a few things and isn't always one specific thing. Your best bet would be to see if you have any check engine codes, if your car is 96 or newer then you can drive it to your local autoparts store and see if they have an OBDII scanner. The ones here diagnose for free, and sometimes it's enough to point you in the right direction. Even if the check engine light isn't coming on there still might be a pending code(aka soft code), meaning that it doesn't happen often enough to trigger the check engine light but it is a problem that the ECU recognizes. if its the pick up inside the distributor do i just have to buy a new distributor? also my car is a 1994 so idk if i can use that obdii scanner =/ |
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Jun 23, 2012 - 12:23 AM
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Enthusiast Joined Dec 8, '03 From Lancaster CA Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) |
might just be the cap and rotor, time for a tune up
-------------------- 2001 Celica GT-S Turbo
1997 Supra TT 6speed 1997 Celica 3MZ/1MZ swap 1990 Celica All-Trac |
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