If I were an oil leak... where would I be?, sub question: does how you delete emssions cause a problem? Options

[qatar11]

Say you rebuilt your 5SFE from the ground up.... and say... you have the kind of oil leak that would require approx 1 quart of oil to be added every hour (Endurance racing conditions).. Where would this leak be coming from?

- *Every* seal on the engine is new (inc. valve guides)
- Most of the mess is on the transmission side of the engine / engine compartment
- Removing the access plate? the back of the flywheel looks dry / I don't think it is the rear main seal

Other interesting tidbits:

- The PCV has been deleted and replaced with a little cone filter... should this be replaced with a catch can?
- The EGR has been deleted and a large bolt has been used to block the port... has anyone deleted EGR and if so how did you do it?

Is anyone running a proper oil pressure gauge? What are you getting? @ High RPM and high load and when we are full and cold - we are high (60-70 psi) As we warm up, it drops to 50 psi or so... and then we lose oil until things get very low... 40 psi or so.

[VavAlephVav]

People say the motor burns oil naturally, like a quart every 2000 miles.
but a Quart an Hour has got to be alot even if you're racing it.

[enderswift]

I've had oil flow past the pressure sensor before. Lots of it. I'm assuming you have a t fitting that sends oil pressure to your after market gauge and to your stock idiot light. I would check there. It's on the transmission side too. Have you tried using uv dye yet?

[Syaoran]

My car is leaking under boost and I am sure it's because it didn't have a PCV connected, and on top of that the stock breather on the valve cover is too small for anything but stock.

[presure2]

2 things i can think of mike.
#1, pcv is definetly gonna need a catch can, its definetly gonna blow that funky mist thru the filter in racing conditions.
#2 dizzy seals?

[qatar11]

People say the motor burns oil naturally, like a quart every 2000 miles.
but a Quart an Hour has got to be alot even if you're racing it.

*Normally* we never have oil loss issues. We'll change the oil before a race and be good all weekend.

I've had oil flow past the pressure sensor before. Lots of it. I'm assuming you have a t fitting that sends oil pressure to your after market gauge and to your stock idiot light. I would check there. It's on the transmission side too. Have you tried using uv dye yet?

No T-fitting, the oil pressure sending unit (sensor) has replaced the OEM oil pressure switch as it only goes to the IP which you never look at while racing... we have a new wizbang idiot light . No UV dye yet it seems like copious amounts of oil loss for a hairline crack.. but who knows...

Autometer Elite Series

2 things i can think of mike.
#1, pcv is definetly gonna need a catch can, its definetly gonna blow that funky mist thru the filter in racing conditions.
#2 dizzy seals?

I think you are right about the PCV... going to get a catch can for that.... and we can check the Dizzy seal / valve cover? What about EGR? How many people have deleted that? How do they normally delete it?

This post has been edited by qatar11: Aug 21, 2014 - 2:43 PM

[qatar11]

Found it... under the plate that connects the engine to the trans and covers the flywheel... its bubbling out of the oil pan / engine mating surface... the oil pan must have been damaged (bent) when I removed it for the rebuild... the more you know...

As an aside: What has everyone used to break that black RTV seal and remove the oil pan?

[Syaoran]

Welcome to the club. I'm about to get a new oil pan. I've taken mine off and put it back on twice already. The first time I did the "4mm" bead recommended amount by the books. It leaked in that same spot.

I then did a bead that was like 3 times as thick. It's leaking again. I'm about to just grab some grey permatex stuff and smear it across the surface, or get a new oil pan.

P.S. I used this type of pry tool

http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/pro.../11513/image/4/

The flat side is thinner, and you can make it fit between the mating surfaces, and then just slide it across to break up the silicone a bit.

This post has been edited by Syaoran: Aug 25, 2014 - 9:41 AM